Richk

I have a Cannondale Street that I had for few years now since 2004. It had fenders rack spring seat etc .Wondering it it would be worth my while putting drop bars on and converting to a Cyclocross bike ?
Thanks

flargle

What would be the purpose? Converting a hybrid or mountain bike to drop bars usually ends up just plain wrong. The frame isn't designed for it.

If you want to try racing, just aim at stripping down the bike and getting the right tires. Then if you find you really like it, you can start saving up for a proper cross bike.

fietsbob

IDK if there is enough clearance for knobby tires . since I cannot see what you have..

Richk

https://www.comparestoreprices.co.uk/...-2006-bike.asp

fietsbob

"cannot open page" it says.. address not succinct, most likely..

Richk

Posted a link to the bike I took the chain guards off and the fenders and rack .Etc been riding that way for a while .

Richk

Posted a link to the bike I took the chain guards off and the fenders and rack .Etc been riding that way for a while .
Frame: Street Si Forks: Cannondale Si Fatty Alloy Gears: Shimano Deore front and rear Derailleurs Shifters: Shimano Deore Chainset: Truvativ FiveD with 22 32 and 44 tooth chain rings Brakes: Cannondale Fire V-Brakes Wheels: Shimano Dynamo Nexus front and Cannondale Earth rear hubs with Cannondale rims Tyres: Schwalbe City Plus Handlebars: Comfort Alloy Stem: Alloy Adjustable Saddle: Selle Royal Seatpost: Alloy 6061 Forged

Andy_K 

So what's your goal? Casual off-road riding? Trying a CX race? Just want a drop bar bike for all-around use?

Richk

All around bike for messy winter months . Would prefer a off the floor Cross bike but just can not afford it .

Andy_K 

The conversion process is likely to cost more than a used CX bike and the geometry/fit is likely to be less than ideal, but you might be able to make it work.

I put drop bars on an old Specialized Rockhopper, and turned it into a pretty fun bike:



The key elements here that might be useful in your conversion:
- Bar end shifters. I used a set of Shimano SL-BS64 shifters, which would probably work for you as well. The rear indexing is compatible with MTB rear derailleurs, and the front uses friction shifting so the MTB/road incompatibility there doesn't matter like it would with STI shifters. These bar end shifters alone sell for around $85 (US) new, but if you can find them used you might be able to save some money.
- Brakes. Using bar end shifters frees up your braking options. I used an old pair of Shimano STI's that didn't shift anymore -- picked them up at a swap meet for $10, gutted the shifting mechanism making them nice (but ugly) brake levers. This meant I needed Travel Agents with my V-brakes. You can get long pull brake levers to use with the V-brakes you already have.
- Stem/bars. You've got an adjustable stem, which could really help with the fit issue, but it probably has a 25.4mm clamp. You can get drop bars in that size, and that may be your best bet. I went with a threaded-to-threadless adapter, a very short stem and short reach (Salsa Poco) bars.

To make this anywhere near cost effective, you need to reuse as much of your existing bike as possible.

In the end, you end up with a monstrosity that may or may not be fun to ride. Generally, I only recommend it if you're willing to spend the money involved just for the fun over tinkering because odds are that you won't like what you end up with.

Richk

Yea that is what I was thinking by the time I pay for the parts install it probably not be what i want
Thanks
Rich

flargle

That is sweet.

cs1

I have an 89 Rockhopper Comp I bought new. I always wanted a set up like that. Great job.

Andy_K 

You know, this was like the fifth different way I put it together (not counting the stock build). I was never quite happy with the other things I tried, but this really works for me. It rides great, and I'm not afraid to leave it locked up in the city.

flargle

It's a great conversion and anyone considering a similar project should note the long steerer tube extension and short stem.

fietsbob

Finally got to the referred to page .. in #4

[C'dale has 2 product lines, EU gets different bikes, than US]

Its a fine commuter bike, , want a cyclocross bike , now?, go buy one.

since that bike has the cable under the top tube
any course run-ups will have that cable routing guide,
make a mark on your shoulder..

GrayJay

Geometry for 2006 model is here;
https://web.archive.org/web/200605152...06/geo-22.html

At least it is already setup with wide 700c wheels and has cantilevers, I dont think CX tire clearance would be a issue. Top tube might be a bit short if it was originally bought sized to fit you as an upright city bike. If setup with drop bars and a long negative-rise stem, it looks like it could work decently as a gravel-grinder road bike for riding dirt & gravel backroads. Challange I see with turning it into a full-out cyclocross bike for racing is that it has very long chainstays, and a long front-center adding up to a long wheelbase. The headtube angle on the larger sizes is also quite slack and it has high fork trail. All this adds up to a very straightline stable but slow turning bike. It would be severly lacking for the nimble handeling needed in CX racing.