Surly Cross Check: Wheel / Fork Upgrade?
#1
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Surly Cross Check: Wheel / Fork Upgrade?
I've had my Cross Check for a few years, for non-racing uses. Most of the time I use it on roads, for tours, occasionally on trails, as a rain bike, and a bit of winter use (but not in snow). I have the gearing set up to suit me, I like the versatility, I like round tubes, and I like the ride feel.
Unfortunately, it's a bit heavy. I'm not a weight weenie, but I am routinely carrying it up and down stairs, over turnstiles and onto trains, and it's getting old.
I'm still using the stock wheels, which are Alex DA16's, Deore hubs, iirc 135mm spacing. Any recommendations on a wheelset that is lighter, smooth on roads, good on basic gravel? Any reason to use 130mm hubs instead of 135mm, or vice versa?
Similarly, is it worth the effort to install a CF fork, and save another pound?
Or is lightening CC a hopeless endeavor?
Unfortunately, it's a bit heavy. I'm not a weight weenie, but I am routinely carrying it up and down stairs, over turnstiles and onto trains, and it's getting old.
I'm still using the stock wheels, which are Alex DA16's, Deore hubs, iirc 135mm spacing. Any recommendations on a wheelset that is lighter, smooth on roads, good on basic gravel? Any reason to use 130mm hubs instead of 135mm, or vice versa?
Similarly, is it worth the effort to install a CF fork, and save another pound?
Or is lightening CC a hopeless endeavor?
#2
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The stock CC fork is a total pig.
If you ride the bike a lot and love it, something like a Ritchey Comp fork and some Ultegra/Open Pro wheels would be sensible upgrades.
If you ride the bike a lot and love it, something like a Ritchey Comp fork and some Ultegra/Open Pro wheels would be sensible upgrades.
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You can probably save a few pounds by throwing money at it, but the big problem is that the weight is spread all over. The fork is probably the best bang for your buck in terms of weight savings. You can save a lot of weight with new wheels and tires, but you might be giving up some durability and/or traction in the process. The stock crankset is a bit heavy, IIRC. You can probably get a lighter seat post. There are some light cassettes available. Etc., etc.
The thing to do is decide if it's worth a few hundred dollars to save a few pounds.
The thing to do is decide if it's worth a few hundred dollars to save a few pounds.
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My C-Check is my commuter bike, and it's a complete hog. Weighs about 40 pounds.
Stock frame/fork, Sun CR18 32h rims with 14g spokes to an IRO high flange rear and a SON28 front.
Velo Orange stainless steel fenders. Rando rack with Berthoud bag. Bagman rack with Carradice Pendle.
Brooks Saddle. Flat-resistant 32mm tires. Pump. Lights. The whole shootin' match; and it's a tank.
I ride it 30 miles a day r/t to work, almost 10,000' of elevation per week. It's a great training bike.
Stock frame/fork, Sun CR18 32h rims with 14g spokes to an IRO high flange rear and a SON28 front.
Velo Orange stainless steel fenders. Rando rack with Berthoud bag. Bagman rack with Carradice Pendle.
Brooks Saddle. Flat-resistant 32mm tires. Pump. Lights. The whole shootin' match; and it's a tank.
I ride it 30 miles a day r/t to work, almost 10,000' of elevation per week. It's a great training bike.
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