Another thought crossed my mind while I was looking at the specs on my Aventon Sinch ST a couple days ago: The advertised motor power in watts is pretty much meaningless. It's perhaps useful for comparing models from one brand, but it's not comparable between brands.
My Sinch was advertised as having a 500W motor, but the on-bike display has a screen that reports it as 750W. Either way, even unlocked, motor assist cuts off at 28 MPH on the Turbo (highest) setting.

It is pretty worthless for anything. They use the peak power as the measurement because when you look at the nominal power and the losses from a hub drive it makes those hub drives way less appealing numbers wise. Nominal power is really the only metric in the power that you want to see anyone can give you massive peak numbers but what can it do if powered forever without interruption. The number I really care about is the torque in NM which on say a Bosch or Brose motor is usually 70-100nm

Nothing about a RadPower that is heavy duty, heavy yes, doody yes but don't combine the two. Cheap hub drives, with lower quality frames and it took them how many years to just put some cheap hydraulic brakes on it vs the ultra cheap no-name cable actuated brakes that are not designed around heavy e-bikes and really just for the cheapest of hybrids. I mean people are putting kids on a bike with those things and carrying them around with such poor stopping power and loose low quality parts and call that OK.

Certainly their support has gotten slightly better compared to the others who make similar products but the quality just isn't there and the support isn't great compared to Bosch, Brose, Shimano...

Hydraulic brakes are one of those features that is nice to have but not necessary. Mechanical with decent leverage and the right amount of surface area is enough.

I suspect that Rad decided (after a few lawsuits) to provide better braking than is necessary rather than having to keep showing up in court for when someone overloaded the bike, then burned up the brakes doing down a big hill and crashed.

Seems the original owners may have been sued out of business over perceived braking issues. (class action re. the combination of QR + disc brakes, and then another wrongful death suit for a couple girls who went together on one down a steep hill and found the brakes lacking, piling them into a wall.

I was glad to see through axle design on the front of my Level.2 the other day. The QR skewers on my daughter's XP Lite need monitoring. No safety issue so far, but they get out of alignment and have the brakes rubbing after a bumpy ride.

For an electric bicycle they are necessary 100% because the quality ones are already going to use hydraulic brakes and the cheap ones are using the worst brakes they could find. Yes you could get Paul Klampers or Equal Growtacs or a similar high quality brake and use compressionless housing and polished stainless steel cables but that costs way more money than a simple set of Shimano MT-200s and these cheapo vehicles are probably more likely to use some knockoff or ultra cheap version that is a no-name but is likely to stop a little better than the normal cable brakes they use.

I’m extremely happy with the stopping power of my hydraulic brakes - I have no experience with non hydraulic, but these are awesome for me, given the power offered by my ebike

You’ve described your needs really clearly — torque and comfort matter a lot, especially for hill climbing and heavier loads.
It’s a good way to compare bikes before buying or to see whether you’d benefit from a stronger mid-drive system.

I have no complaints with the stopping power of the mechanical disc brakes on my Aventon Sinch ST. I suspect mechanical brakes may need more frequent adjustment than hydraulics, but on the other hand you never have to bleed them.