I got a topeak DX bag and a topeak explorer bike rack. It has a quick release track on it so you can take it off the rack easily.

Do you have a link?

I will let you know, the starboard doesn't require welding, you just use mechanical fasteners. It cuts very nicely with regular wood working tools and doesn't ruin your blades.

Your boxes are great, however, my measurements are slightly different than yours using the wiring harness for the CellLog 8. The XLR chassis plug also adds some bulk. I'm trying to decide whether I want to accommodate it inside the case or create a bump out on the outside of the case. Since I'm already going to have to create an attachment point outside the case for the CellLog 8, I'm leaning toward an external bumpout for the XLR, using plywood painted black. I did more practice cuts with the router today. I really don't want to mess up the starboard so I'm practicing with the router on scrap wood. Hope you post some photos of your two motor setup.

I bought this one but there is a better one that's a little bigger and can even carry groceries in it because it folds out. This is the one I bought
http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Trunk-B...9985495&sr=8-8

but if you are looking to get a quick release bag, you might want to get this one instead ...the panels fold out and down and I guess you can put groceries in it...it makes like two panniers on the sides
http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Trunk-B...9996942&sr=8-4

It's been a while since I bought it. I'm pretty sure that is the right one, though. I bought the one with the biggest cubic capacity...I remember looking for the biggest one. 36v of Thundersky just barely fits into it with like 1/2 inch to spare. 48v of Thundersky won't fit in it but you might be able to put it in one of the side panniers or strap it to the top like I do now. There is a bungie strap on the top and one battery fits very nicely on top. It also comes with a shoulder strap. I took the shoulder strapped and wrapped it around the bike seat bar and it makes a nice "fail safe" device to prevent the batteries from sliding off. Not that I've had problems with it. I like being able to take it off if I decide to go to the grocery. You can put your controller in there too and just quick release both and put it in a shopping cart.
(I think Amazon.com has a deal buy both the bag and rack for $81)

The bike rack that I bought is just the explorer one...this one
http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-6310703...ef=pd_sim_sg_1

before buying, you might check below your seat to see if you have two holes because if you look at the picture, you need two holes in your frame to mount it too. On one of bikes, I didn't have those holes but I went to a bike shop and they gave me two 1/2' or 3/4" clamps ...or whatever they are called and it worked just fine. You can find those clamps at a hardware store too. Or you could just drill holes in the frame I guess.

If you are looking for super strong or cool bike racks, these are some of the best I've seen They also have front racks since you said you were interested in putting it on the front.
http://www.axiomgear.com/products/gear/racks/

Some of them hold 100 lbs. The topeak is good too, though. The topeak is good for about 55 lbs. I've probably had 70lbs on it before and it wobbled a bit but it held up.

OK, but I thought you had said in an earlier posting that you were going to weld the plastic. I also use StarBoard plastic for my boxes. I am pretty sure the cellLoger wiring will fit in my dimentions. And why are you going to have a bump out for the XLR? I am also looking a different material that is less expensive then StarBoard. Only problem is the color isn't black. StarBoard is great if your only doing one box but if you do several it get expensive fast.

OK, but I thought you had said in an earlier posting that you were going to weld the plastic. I also use StarBoard plastic for my boxes. I am pretty sure the cellLoger wiring will fit in my dimentions. And why are you going to have a bump out for the XLR? I am also looking a different material that is less expensive then StarBoard. Only problem is the color isn't black. StarBoard is great if your only doing one box but if you do several it get expensive fast. I also think I came up with a better way for connecting my front and back that will make them quick release for dismantalling the box. Of couse there isn't any reason to dismantale it very often.

Yeah, I was thinking of taking some pics of the dual motors now that I am getting close to the end. I need to disassemble it all anyway for painting so I thought I would take then then for posting.

By the way are you mountainbiker on EcoForumz.com ?

real easy. You probably got it off by now. Just use a screwdriver and twist a little and pop it off.

Not yet, I just looked at them for a minute then put them in the closet next to the box with the amped kit. I'll get them back out when the chargers get here, tomorrow I think along with the new tires.

Speaking of new tires, how hard is it to put the new tires on, or should I just take it to a bike shop?

I thought you used ABS, my bad. ABS is a good material, but I didn't really consider it very long since it can ruin your saw blades. What material are you considering using for future cases? If you look at the photo I posted of the XLR chassis plug wired to the CellLog harness, you'll see that the plug extends down about an inch below where it attaches to the top of your case material. Rather than extending the case length by an inch and deal with securing the heavy battery so it wouldn't move around (the inch needed by the XLR chassis plug is only about a square inch) I'd rather create an bump out on the top of the case for that extra inch of XLR plug. Are you painting the motors? Sorry if I misunderstood.

I put my kenda's on real easily. Typically, I use a tire lever? can't remember the name of it but it's about 2 inches long and plastic and has no sharp edges and it makes getting the tire on real easy. It's like a miniature shoehorn ...you know one of those things that helps you get your shoes on. I'm not saying you need to buy one. You might be able to find something else that will work. Just a piece of plastic with no sharp edges. I tried using a screwdriver on my first time changing a tire and it kind of tore up the tire a little bit so I don't know if I can recommend that.

anyway, I use that and I have this hand tool that uses these sockets, well, the end of it has no sharp edges so once I get the tire sliding off a bit, I stick that thing in to hold my place so it doesn't slip back into place and then I take the tire lever and slide it around.

Use a very tiny screwdriver on the long side about 1" from the corner and pry it carefully. Then try the other corner and so on. Sometimes they stick a little so go slow and work your way around to both ends of both long sides. Go slow it will eventually pop for you.

Over the weekend I mounted the tires, installed the brakes handles and throttle, mounted the hub, bought a rear rack and mirror. The rack required a little modification but should work fine. The battery chargers were to be delivered to my work on Friday. But the bosses decided to take everyone to lunch so nobody was there to sign for the delivery, so they should be here today.

I just got the amped torque arm. It is much much beefier that it looks like in their pictures. It's 5" long, made of 1/8" thick metal (looks to be stainless steel). Laser or EDM cut. Very nice and well worth the money. My only recommendation would be if they would cut a slot in place of the row of holes so you can use a pipe clamp. I suppose it doesn't matter which side it's mounted on?

yeah, it doesn't matter which side the torque arm goes.

First charge on one of the packs. I didn't want to use the 10 amp setting first time out, but at 6 amps the cells are up to 3.65, 3.67, 3.67, and 3.65. Still holding at 6.4 amps for a while. How long do the cells hold at the high current at full volts? I would expect the current to start folding back soon. I'm going to disconnect the charger if it doesn't back off soon. Still under 3.70v

well, I wanted you to use the smaller chargers first but as long as you monitor them constantly, it'll be okay. Make sure you top them off with the small chargers after using the black and decker. Sounds like your cells are pretty balanced. That's really good. The cells will typically go up to about 3.75v or 3.72v...don't worry. As long as they don't go over about 3.8v, you are okay. You can stop them at 3.65 or 3.68v if you are worried, though. You should typically start to see the current cut back when teh cells are at about 3.55v or 3.60v . Make sure it's on "Gel" setting which it usually selects that automatically anyway.

Let me know if you saw the current taper off...and count down ...if you were using a 6 amp setting...it should have went like this 5.9...5.8....5.5...5.1...4.9...3.5...like that all the way to 0 and then it will say "Full". As long as you have the same charger as I do which you do, it will stop and not damage the batteries. I would just monitor them on the first charge or two. Don't forget to top them off with the small chargers afterwards. Those you can leave by themselves and not worry about.

Once you get the first charge in and topped-off, then it'll be real easy. You won't have to worry about them. It's the first charge that is the hardest because you don't know where the capacities are at and if they are balanced or not.

If you want to know exactly when it will stop, the Black and Decker will typically stop when the 4 cell pack gets to about 14.88v . So 14.88 / 4 = 3.72v per cell. It's a little higher than we want but I've been using it since January and it doesn't harm them. To really harm the cells, you'd have to take it above 4.2v .

I wanted to start with the small chargers too, but they haven't been delivered yet.

How do you select 'Gel' setting, I'm not seeing any selector on the charger for that? I wonder if this charger is a different model than yours.

I stopped them at 3.70v They stayed very well balanced. Within 0.02v.

The small chargers should be here tomorrow, maybe I'll top them off then.

Ok, well did you use a 6 amp charge? Also, did it count down from 6 to 5.9...5.8..5.7...4.5..4..3...2.5..2...1.. like that ?

It should automatically select the right setting so you don't have to worry about it but I usually manually select mine. You probably didn't have much more to go if you stopped it at 3.70v . Next one you charge, measure the whole 4 cell pack and see if it stop at 14.88v . that's what mine does.

You're right. It doesn't have a Gel setting. That's okay. I didn't realize that but it's still relatively the same as mine. Anyway, measure the 4 cell pack and see if it stops at about 14.88v . Let it go up to 14.88v as long as none of the cells are totally out of balance. As long as they are about .05v within each other like the other one was. If it goes higher than 14.88v then pull the plug but I'm sure it will stop at that voltage or maybe even a little shy of 14.88v .

Yeah, I pulled the plug before it got that high. I was seeing around 14.88 + or - a little on the whole cell. I noticed a bit of a voltage drop on the terminal connections (.10 -.15v) so not all of it was going to the cells. But it didn't go below 6.4 amps. The meter I was using was a cheapy, so I don't totally trust it. I'll take my fluke in to work and see what it says.

BTW, I appreciate all the help. Thanks Morph!

You might not have the type that tapers off the current. Dumbass's doesn't either. That's not a big deal. Main thing is that it doesn't go above 14.88v .

The manual says it does taper off. We shall see.

Ok. When it tapers, it usually tapers on the last about 5 minutes of the charge. It tapers pretty quickly. You probably right on the verge of it doing that. You'll see tomorrow or whenever you charge the next one.

It'll go up to about 14.80 and then slow down considerably and then go to 14.81...then all the way to 14.88v and then it will stop and say "FUL" .

The cells started out this morning at 3.45 The charger has started backing off the current now at 3.74, 3.73, 3.74, 3.75
It's down to 4 amps, 3.76, 3.74, 3.77, 3.76