chillspike

The Green Speed website say the Bionx has a 60 mile range on one of their bikes but how am I to understand that? Is that going at full throttle, no peddling all the way, some peddling, low speed, what?

I want to know what is the fastest e-bike with the longest range without peddling?

And if I can't buy it whole, what do I need to buy to assemble it?

I want to be able to go far and at the fastest speed possible.

You guys must know the real truth and can cut through the hype. So what's the REAL best?

Thank you.

seanreit

Just this evening I went 16 miles in just about an hour on one of these:
https://www.wildfiremotors.com/index....mart&Itemid=75

There was still some power left in the stock battery pack, but I had a spare 36V 12AH pack just in case I didn't make it back. There are many many bikes that will out perform the above, but I got this bike for $500.00 second hand, and I have been wanting to invest in an E-bike for quite a while.

yopappamon

Speed and long range are generally not associated with fully assembled bikes, but more with diy parts.

The fastest? Maybe the Brammo electric motorcycle at 100mph. $14,000
https://www.brammo.com/home/

It might more useful to set a target speed, range and budget.

chillspike

I'm glad you got back alive.

In terms of my budget, $3000 - $3500 is my limit.

Does anyone know if the Bike Friday Bionx configuration lives up to its 60 mile range and under what cycling conditions? Will I have to go 10mph to get that kind of range or is that full trhottle no peddling all the way?

Anything that could do that range full throttle (20mph), no peddling would be perfect for me. Anything out there do that?

Thank you everyone.

chillspike

Target speed: 20mph-28mph
Target range: 60 miles on one charge
Budget Limit: $3000 -$3500

But I'm not looking for a motocycle or moped. I don't want to bother with licenses and insurance. So I'm sticking to an ebike right now. Thank you.

chillspike

Do you know any DIY configurations that would do the job?

in-control

To qualify as a bike, in the US, the bike cannot go past 20mph or have a motor > 750 watts. I typically get ~20 miles in hilly terrain, where I help(10%) the system up hills.

chillspike

Okay. So update my target speed to just 20mph.

What bike/motor config do you have? It seems I could get that out of the box with an a2b.

But some here suggested I could do better with a DIY config.

Is there any ebike config that will get me a 50-60 mile range at 20mph?

Thank you for your help.

GTR2EBIKE

pmed you

yopappamon

Very achievable with that budget.

Many hubs will get you that speed. The very common 9 Continent hubs will get you 20-22 at 36v batteries. I would think around 40ah of LiFePO4 battery would get you close to 60 miles with little pedaling.

Lots of people get around 2 miles per amp hour. Depends a lot on how hilly your ride is, how heavy you and the bike are.

Just for discussion, look at these Thundersky batteries.

https://elitepowersolutions.com/produ...products_id=93

You need 3 packs to get 36 volts. 13.6 pounds per pack, 40.8 pounds of batteries. Around 10+ pounds for the hub. You would be toting around 50-60 pounds of equipment.

yopappamon

Lots of people carry quality kits. Here's what I have.

https://www.e-bikekit.com/shop/index....id=26&parent=0

Batteries
https://elitepowersolutions.com/produ...products_id=93

Battery Manager + Charger
https://www.hightekbikes.com/BMS.html

Kit - $400
36v 40AH Thundersky batteries - $600
BMS and Charger - $150
Misc stuff- Rack, battery bag, current monitor, torque arm, wiring connectors. $200-600

15rms

These guys in Fort Collins Co make a couple of bikes that will do what you are asking.

https://www.electric-cycle.com/html/services.html

If you load most any bike with too much battery weight you can go 60 miles. Keep in mind most e-bikes are made from junk componets. They are made with very low price and quality. So if you bought the typical e-bike and added extra weight the thing may not be as durable as you are expecting.

I don't own a Bionx however I have ridden one. I have seen a post that claimed using throttle only it can go 12 miles. The 60 mile range you are reading is on level 1. That gives some boost however you would still be doing most of the work. Possibly a Bionx with an extra battery on a quality bike would do the job with some level of durability. You could set the setting on 2 possibly 3 for part of the ride.

miro13car

15rms,
most ebikes made from junk components?
Not all
E+ bike is made in USA with high quality components with one of the best if not the best motor/controller in the world. Again it is NOT your average Chinese low quality stuff.
E+ descended from legendary Tidal Force.
This ebike lasts and mecahanically is bullet-proof, no getting loose nuts, bolts, misalaigned parts here.
Problem is it comes with Nicel battery.
We all are waiting for Universal Batt Connector which will allow us to connect any 36V battery to this bike.
Now batt on this E+ must communicate with main controller.
MC

chillspike

I really like their recumbants. My dream ride would be an electric recumbant with a top very much like a car but without the legal requirements.

The Drymer is my dream ride:

https://gizmodo.com/318548/drymer-v05...your-face-melt

But it hasn't been released yet and it will be like $8,000

chillspike

I like the "Recumbant E Bike" for $2500 on that page you linked to. It's looks to be the same height as a Drymer (I don't like low riding trikes)...and I suppose, with some customizations, I could turn one of their trike frames into something that looks like a drymer. I like the seats on a recumbant trike to be as high as a driver in a car so car drivers can see me.

15rms

Here is a Opti bike on Ebay.

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...Bike-I-can-get

I test rode one of these last month. Best of the Best as far as I am concerned.

alfonsopilato

Hi everyone, couldn't help but notice the question, so here's my setup, you probably all heard of it by now... it's insane but I love it, and some of you are already rolling their eyes saying "oh my God, it's him again with his freakish setup ":

this is a DIY:

config is:
72 volt lifepo4 @ 15 aph
with crystalyte 5304 motor‏
Top speed 66 kmph on the flat, i know , insane
My bike weighs 75 lbs
I weigh 210 lbs, i know i need to lose weight, but that gives you an idea of the bikes' performance.


This bike will do your suggested 32 kmph (20 mph) without any assist for 60 km (37 miles).
The motor is very powerful, to the point that headwind and hills don't really affect it, execpt the bike will obviously consume more power to maintain the same speed in adverse conditions.

I have a custom throttle system:
One regular half twise throttle on the right grip which I use to initially get the bike moving.
A dial on the left grip, which I use to maintain cruising speed.
Both the throttle and the dial tap into the same thorttle wires. This allows me to release the throttle and "dial" my voltage .. a crude form of cruise control.. which helps me easily maintain adequate wattage (the sweet spot seems to be around 600 watts ).
I have a normal on switch right under my right brake, as soon as i press it cuts off the power.
I have a master on off switch on my left dial which allows me to safely turn off the power when I am at a complete stop.

This elaborate setup allows me to consume only the required power.
Throttle use alone, imo, is not a practical way of controlling consumption as one is trying to maintain balance and steering while trying to tune into the right voltage using a twist throttle ... and you can't keep your eyes on the meter always.. so for me best way is a dial.


if you want longer Range, just increase aph.. I wouldn't go back to 48 volts, I love too much the climbing and acceleration power i get with my current setup. The only way to stay legal on the road, in my case, is to stay at legal speed limit. I know .. I know..

Another thing about this setup: insane torque. I'm still working out how not to get broken spokes.. I built the wheel myself, that could probably explain it
I break a spoke every two weeks, not bad considering i travel daily 30 km.
I use 11-12 gauge butted spokes (12 near the flange).

Sounds complicated but really is a sweet ride. You can see me cruising down the streets of Toronto, wind blowing in my face, but i'm bald, so i got no hair flowing from my helmet.. but in my mind i do and i think i look like one of those bad ass bikers.. but in reality i most likely look like a geek on his ebike, ROFL.)

Cheers.

seanreit

Alfonso, would you be kind enough to give a better explanation to the potentiometer you are using for cruise control? I would like to copy this idea, but don't know what size potentiometer to get, and don't know which three wires from the twist grip would go to which pole on the "cruise control".

Is there a way to use a meter to determine which wires are planted where? I'm not sure, but I thought a twist grip used a pos a neg, and a signal wire. Is it as simple as finding some voltage postive and negative so just finding out two of the wires auto describes the third? A picture would be helpful as well if you have or can take one or two.

alfonsopilato

First of all, you're only dealing with the 5 volts power coming from the controller (identify the throttle wires coming from the controller), so nothing too fancy will do for a potentiometer. You are not dealing with the motor power wires or the battery powre wires. So, from that perspective you're safe.

As you've mentioned there are three wires on the potentiometer.. ground, power and difference, so you'll need a multimeter; it should be straight forward detemrining which is which.
If you have a three wire throttle then it's a walk in the park, use the multimeter to detemrine which wire is which.
If you have a four wire throttle, be careful because one of those wires represents the battery voltage across your battery, and that wire you want to avoid.

Once you've got your wires identified, connect each wire to its respective pair (don't cut the throttle wires, just tap into them, this means the potentiometer and the throttle are in parallel). Electricity will find the path of least resistance and flow to the device which makes it available. Therfore if your throttle is released it will present the highest resistance, so the flow will go through the potentiometer if this one is dialled to a lower resistance. At throttle off and dial full resistance, there should be 0 volts going back to the controller.

What you'll also need, I recommend it, is a master on/off switch for the potentiometer. If you're right handed you may want the potentiometer and master switch on the left close to your thumb, so you can control both the master switch and the dial of the potentiometer with your left thumb. (I'll take a picture of that and post it so you can see the set up , howerver that picture will not reveal the wiring, unfortunately, unless I undo the whole thing). The master switch is in series with the potentiometer. Elect to do this on the 5+ volt wrire. This way when master switch is off, it will present infinite resistance to the circuit and will enable your twist throttle to dominate the circuit if you choose to take off using the twist throttle.

When you're at a complete stop, you would switch off the master switch with your thumb and of course release the throttle.
When you want to take off, you twist the throttle, once the bike is in moviton, you turn on the master switch, allowing the throttle voltage to be regulated by the potentiometer and you of course release the twist throttle.

I also recommend you use a normal-close button under your right brake on your steering (that corresponds to your back brake). This button will interrupt the throttle signal wire or you may also have it interupt the 5 volts wire of the throttle. In any case when you press that button it should cut off the signal both the potentiometer and the throttle . This allows for safe cutoff of signal when you're breaking. To get this done, you will have to cut off the wire on the throttle side and interrupt it by the button wires (there will be two wires on that button). It doesn't matter how you orient the button wires. All this button does is, when pressed, interrupts the 0.1 - 5 volts signal or 5+volt power coming or going to the throttle. When the button is de-pressed, it's as if the wire you cut is reconnected and normal sgnal or power is resumed. You only need to interrupt one of these two throttle wires (not both), just pick either the signal or 5volt wire. In thi scase the normal-close button and the thorttle are in series.

I have no pictures after the fact, sorry, but that info should help you get started. Let me know how it goes.