Monte
I deleted my post asking you to show picture of sense board with damage/burned/
just noticed -
the first picture you attached above shows just that - burned Q5 transistor on BMS control board,
it is obvious that somebody touched accidently with minus battery lead while installing this board .
no way such a low power transistor would evaporate burn like that during normal operation.
where would the big current come from to destroy tiny circuit?
simply this Q5 acted like fuse on short circuit.

Monte,

Wrandry is right the pins can be removed from the plastic connector housing without cutting the wires. Use the tip of an exacto knife to gently pry up the plastic spring that keeps the pins in place. The wire with the pin should slide out. Once out of the hub, check that the barb on metal connector isn't pushed in. Slide it back in the housing and the plastic spring against the barb will keep it in place.


When you were here I told you that upper board you brought was fried, I also mentioned it post #523 . I knew you had another board or 2. Sorry you got stuck getting those boards out of the hub. You don't give up and that's how you learn.


FYI, my E+ with the Lithium batteries is working beautifully but I may sell it. I ran across some 36V 14.5ah rear rack batteries (10s5p) very cheap. I'll probably use one of those when I sell. I think tool batteries is a better approach but they aren't free and most buyers would like a more standard ebike battery.

Jan ordered this connection so I would have one less thing to have to fabricate.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1f917476ac.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...63ca8fc997.jpg

I am reminded of your direction to be aware of a defective board in #523message . I used it in performing an operational test of my assembly. I accidentally fumbled the upper and lower disc and when I caught it, I assumed the light flash that I saw was from the in-line fuse blowing that you insisted that I add.(thanks) I re-assembled the boards with a good upper board from my second unit. I had to swap in another sense board. I got my display to light up.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...126c55179c.jpg

in a prior assembly test and had power but now I don't have power to the wheel. I haven't changed anything since I had a previous successful operational test but now I can't get power. I am not really sure how to begin diagnostics of the power absence but I am almost there.....

Yah....I've been watching that listing for awhile, when they were asking around $599. I was told that the "owner" would not take less than $450. So.....

Then they reduced the starting price to $299, or "offer". So, I offered $200 since they didn't have an original charger. They accepted, saying they have had this E+ for around 2 yrs, and were "in it" @ $250.

Turns out, they in fact had the correct E+ charger, and were attempting to charge from the rear "B" terminal. :-)

I put the E+ on the charger for 4 hrs, and then again for another 4 hrs. Nothing, as it appears it's been setting to long without a charge. Dam!

Time to take the front hub apart & attempt individual charging on each 5 cell pack?

Though it makes much more sense to go lithium, by using the stock battery BMS, right?



https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...344a12aa1f.png

Don't stop.....keep going as I've got TWO E+'s that are in need of fresh cell replacements and would like a lower cost solution! :-)

You don't have to charge each pack separately. You can charge them all at once, and you only have to get them over 4 or 5 volts, then the regular charger will work. Since the sellers were riding it around recently, it shouldn't take much. The hard part is disconnecting the BMS board and connecting a charger directly to the cells. As Powell has noted, you don't want any "bouncing", or messy connects/disconnects. I think the the safest way is to pull the whole battery assembly completely out of the hub housing, so you can get at the fuse on the back. It is much easier to get at the screws on the fuse than the screws that connect the cells to the BMS board.

I'm glad the bike went to someone on thist list-congratulations!

A good buy. Congratulations.

I sold them that charger (with the E+ manual included) after the their first Ebay listing. I knew I would never go back to NiMH.

You should be able to recover the use of the NiMH cells, but if not, it's pretty easy( thanks to the work of Powell) to remove the charge boards from the front hub and mount into a enclosure. Then you can use any 36v Lithium battery and a standard front wheel and add disc brakes. If you looking to save, I find 18V tool batteries are best. Plenty of amps for the E+ The mount is easy to make or I can sell you one. There are also tons 36v batteries from impounded rental ebike showing up for sale. They are big, so rear rack mount, but have lot of AH and usually little use. They work fine, except if you push too hard on the hills. You have to live with power 7 or less, since their BMS won't deliver 1000W but that is not that big a deal. You can still do 28mph on the flat.

Kauakit,
congratulation on getting another EPLUS.
the question is:
what exactey EPLUS version you got????
is it programmed to 750W or 1000W - big question.
I advice you to contact Rick Ruggiero maybe when you tell him serial numbers he would be able to tell you???
I was interested but gave up when I didnt know what I was buying.
but once you start and mange to power up this EPLUS you would figure it out if you have 1000W to compare with.
I never ridden , never seen 750W software version.

disconnecting main battery terminals from BMS power board for direct connect to charger is special operation - do not do it when you are tired.
first thing - you MUST wrap Allen key with tape except very end of it.
yes you can remove fuse first but it is risky if your hands shake and you have to connect it back - more risk.
all this is very individual - messy and speedy type of person can easly destroy BMS processing/control board in miliseconds.
Another way I can think of is to masking tape everything around battery terminals on power board .

Powell is right-Think through what you are going to do before you get into it. I cut a cover for the BMS board out of a plastic milk jug to help prevent anything from falling onto the board while power was still present. I also put jumpers across the connection point until I had the screws out, then put a plastic shim between the terminal contact surfaces. Pulling off the jumpers allowed a clean disconnect at that point. The hard part is that there isn't much room to place a jumper.

If he gets the battery working, all you have to do is see if the motor will stay when the speed goes over 20MPH. The 750watt version will cut out. I suspect that is the only difference.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f6fc4cafd0.jpg

actual millage May27, 2019
Hi all
I want to update you on my EPLUS performance .
Odometer on my EPLUS shows 30 749 kilometers.
I reached this millage on 2 different Lithium batteries.
As you can see on CycleAnalist only 85 charging cycles for my new Chevy Volt cell battery pack.
Now I use battery pack made of Chevy Volt cells in 11S2P configuration /2 parallel ,11in series/.
motor and all drive is still my original EPLUS drive.
I want to stress - kind of battery does not matter for longevity of this EPLUS drive.
as we know EPLUS has built in several protections - overtemp. /no need to touch motor after hill climbing / EPLUS motor will NOT overheat/ , over voltage protect., overcurrent protect. etc.

Eplus drive absolutely stands out from others ebike drives in many aspects like incredible 9 power levels and 9 regen levels

removed rear wheel , checked for any free play on bearings - nothing at all.
Japan bearings -quality.
it does not mean my EPLUS had been without problems.
one of them are display switches.
some other problems were caused by my stupidity - like disconnecting and connecting power wires or communication cables to the motor while system powered - very bad idea, inverter inside motor has quite large capacitors which cause voltage spikes when wires connect. So depower before connecting/disconnecting wires.
Water ingress is another issue for display/contr. switches. Tactile switches of disp. are not so great quality and power switch tactile switch should be the highest quality /gold plated contacts/, but it is not.
EPLUS

Now it is clear that Monte , Easter gave up on converting their EPLUS into Lithium powered EPLUS.
I still hope she would sell me some electronics.

It lives again!!!
 

Again....TY for selling the eBay seller your charger. I put it to good use.

After attemping to use the stock charger on the front hub 2X's....it just sat to long, and the cells were below the LVC & there was nothing, no voltage. So, I removed the wheel & battery side case & used a cheapy 12v to charge each 5 cell pack to 5.5v's while keeping a close eye on it after disconnecting the + & - screws & putting cardboard strips between. And yes I used electrical tape on the allen wrench & used electrical tape below the screws to cover in case they dropped. I put it back together, and IT'S ALIVE! Though it's a shame it's the 750watt/20mph version! It works well enough to run the dogs, and it was fun to also compare it's performance it to an original 750watt/19.5mph Tidalforce.

I'll be letting one of the women folk ride it for range, and will then give an update.

Thanks for the suggestions. It worked.

Kauakit
My guess is 1000W Eplus and 750W Eplus have same, same electronics, they can be programmed .
You can call Rick Ruggiero , maybe he can reprogram motor electronics for 1000W.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4bf880eb1f.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3089e4f736.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ccf81b3633.jpg
Hi all
reporting on my average summer trip.
so I have reached over 32,000 kilometers on my EPLUS.
it is summer only ebike.
please,
look at the pictures.
as you can see , I used only 9.7 Wh/kilometer
on that warm day , me 66 kilograms tires pump to 35PSI.
BUT
what the most incredible is the energy EPLUS returned to battery on this trip - over 10% !!!
I was riding downhill quite a lot and I didnt waisted this energy into worn out pads.

EPLUS as very advanced edrive, has as many as 9 regen levels - unmatched by any other ebike drive.

In regen level 9 I do not touch break levers even in the steep downhills.
sometimes
I see people looking in disbelieve at me hands not sitting on brake levers.
they do not hear any brake noises also.
my brake pads last and last.

Well....that would be nice. As 20mph limit brings tears to my eyes! Which then means I would need to remove the front battery wheel "board", as I'm only getting less than 3 miles of riding on the original battery, and setup an alternate 11s lithium battery pack, right? :-)

So.....not knowing how the original "dash" works, besides setting the power level to 9, how do you setup the regen mode?!?

There are 4 buttons

UP button
POWER button
CRUSE button
DOWN button

press DOWN button many times until it shows

REGEN 9

very simple operation.

Hi Powell,

Not sure why you keep assuming we've given up. We both work extremely long days, at our jobs, and can only do this in spare time. Also, have an active 11 year old, who demands quite a bit of time, is home schooled, scuba dives, and is training to swim competitively.

We can only work on this puzzle (Our EPlus) in our, unfortunately very rare, spare time. We don't want to start on one part, then have to rush, because there's not enough time, then make another mistake, when we are already struggling with figuring this out. Rushing never helps, slow and steady will have to win this race.

We will not be selling anything until the bike is fixed and running on tool batteries. We wish we lived closer to you guys who know more than we do. Whatever was left over after our bike is running, would be yours. We don't have the room to store a bunch of extra stuff, and don't need it. We have working charger, extra wheels, etc, that came with it when we got it. We will be converting to disk brakes, so, once done, we will put everything else into a box. If anyone has ideas, Monte will definitely appreciate the help.

Easter,
I feel so embarrassed for what I posted in this thread about you , I assumed stupidly.
the fact that you have your 11-year old changed everything in my mind.
I will try to write more now I have to go.

No problem Powell. Thank you for your words of apology. When we are ABLE to work on the bike, we appreciate the help we have found here. We are excited and hopeful to put our EPlus on the road one of these days soon. The battery/ connection issue seems to be the last hurdle, but one that Monte will need help with, AND the time to work on it without interruption. He would be grateful to anyone willing to spare him any time to put an extra set of eyes on what he's seeing. All of you on this site have done quite impressive work on your EPluses. I know he saw Firedog91902 a few months back, after which he made incredible progress. Firedog is a battery GENIUS in my opinion the way he's set up to use the Makita batteries. We will reach out to him again and see if he will let Monte visit. If anyone knows someone on the west coast still working on these bikes, we'd love to hear. These are busy times for everyone, which makes us even more grateful to those who share their time with us. Take care!

Nice bike!

it is not only just nice bike
what is NICE is electric drive which powers this bike - EPLUS.
As you can see from my posts millage on my EPLUS powered bike is over 32,000 kilometers.
Metalman does not ride Eplus anymore, my guess is on his bike communication cable was damaged /if I remember correct/ by brake disc.
there are several DO NOT, DO NOT if it comes to EPLUS drive:
- never disconnect/connect power wires or communication cables to the motor when system is ON.
- make sure comm, power wires coming off motor are tied away from rear disc brake is you have one.
- unless you weather-proof display/controller, never ride EPLUS without plastic bag covering in the rain
- never allow any wires entering whatever battery you are going to build from the top of box , enter from the bottom , always allow wires down before entering box , so called drain/water loop.

display/controller tactile switches on EPLUS drive are poor quality
I replaced all four of them with high quality water-proof switches.