Have you contacted E+ about this yet? It sounds like something they would take care of.
I have over 2100 miles on mine now.

Yes,
I spoke to Rick and Jason at EMS factory yesterdy, they asked me to do tests, immediately linked my jerking to LOCK future.
But my E+ is perfect untill about when first bar on Batt indicator starts to blink and next it's worst and worst.
I think battery voltage drops with miles traveled and electronics are supplied from main batt and if you don`t have good voltage regulator electronics are affected by dropping voltage.
I rearly used LOCK and I had this problem from day one. Seems they didn`t test my kit untill 50% discharge?
Even manual says they test only for few miles.
Pity, because it is so nice motor/controller, one of the best in the world and one of the most efficient in the world.
Unbelievable but after 10 minutes runs at over 40km/hour motor is almost cool, very , very slightly warm and at such speeds my E+ draws according to display BELOW 1000W.
MCM

On EMS factory advice I shipped my motor+display to them week ago.
I hope they will do well on their promise to repair my E+.

Metalman,
one more question,
do you see any blinking on your display
for example when you charge, when speed is changing while you ride?

I'm not sure what you're asking miro.
I now have almost 2500 miles on this thing and it's working great.

I have a 750W LiPo-only conversion kit. My display has never blinked, nor have I ever detected any jerkiness from the motor. The Lipo system doesn't support regen charging, so I can't comment on that. I don't leave the controller connected when charging. I don't leave the controller on the bike when parked in public, and if I am going to be away from it for more than a few minutes, I take the battery with me as well.

what I mean,
when you ride and display shows speed, segments of speed digits are changing showing different digits, do other characters like POWER or DISTANCE etc. on display blink with changing digits of speed?
Is all about about voltage supply regulation to LCD display which clearly doesn`t work right, with more segments displeyd LCD DRAWS MORE power, voltage supplied to display drops and this resolut in dimming other segments of display.

I have not seen anything like what you have described on my display. It sounds to me like you have a weak connection somewhere.

no weak connection for sure, as EMS admited it is driver of LCD display.
If it were bad connection on data connector even for less tha sec. display would refreash with data displayed
I think I would ask EMS to replace my display.

I went for my longest ride on the Big Dummy today. This is maybe the first time I tried to just ride it like a regular bike for a good distance. I ended up with 61 hilly miles. I mostly kept the boost on level 1 and the speeds low. For most of the ride my average speed was holding in the 13s. The first battery held out until 55 miles. After I switched batteries I bumped the boost and the speed up for the last leg home.

my 1000W E+ is still in EMS factory right now.
There is lovely summer weather right now where I live.
I don't know how they shipped my kit without any QC??
There is no QC sticker on my kit.

update on my warranty repair at Electric Motion System - maker of E+ bike.
They tested and detected "some cogging", they decided to replace my motor with all brand new rear wheel AND they reprogrammed my old display for this brand new motor.
They say they tested new motor with my reprogrammed controller and is much more smooth.
Not bad I would say, I still didn`t see new motor, but they say is brand new complete with tire.
Anyway my kit is back on its way to me in Canada.

And now bitter part - I had to provide them with my credit card # so they can charge me for return shipping to me, because they don`t pay for shipping outside USA. I told them I feel like I simply paying for warranty repair -shipping to them cost me $80 , now return shipping by USPS around $100, so simply it cost me around $180 to repair my E+ on WARRANTY. So how much was my kit already?
US customer in contrast - EMS will reimburse US customer for shipping to them!! So for US customer they pay shipping both ways, for Canadian customer they pay zero shipping, they must love Canadian warranty repairs.
I am in the process of finding out if other businesses are doing the same to Canadian customers.

It is certainly understandable to be unhappy about having to pay the shipping. Especially since you probably had the issue right out of the box. If it was more into the warranty period (like say 6 months) I would consider that more understandable. I guess if that's their policy that's the way it is.
I will say from experience that shipping into Canada is very expensive. I am in the auto parts business and anything heavy going to Canada can cost many times what it would cost to ship in the US.

shipping is a general term , shipping by what mean?
Does USPS has such much higher rates than Canada Post?
As you probably know shipping by any kind of courier is big NO NO to Canada, because of outrageous brokerage fees paid by Canadians on arrival of package which can be even more than cost of product shipped!!!
Should I appreciate that they EMS agreed to ship by USPS?
I doubt USPS has higher rates than Canada Post. Everything is cheaper in USA than here , why would USPS has higher rates?

I only use USPS for international shipping. I would say based on some of the items that I have received from Canada it is cheaper to ship south than it is to ship north.

Given the size, weight, and value of such a shipment, and assuming they prudently decided to use a trackable service, the amount does not seem at all unrealistic to me. You can check it on the USPS web site.

Update on my 1000W E+ kit warranty repair.
I picked up the parcel with repaired kit from post office yesterday.
EMS /E+ maker/ delivered on promise - as Rick promised motor is brand new, rims are still mostly black on sides where brake pads work - indication that wheel run less than like 10km maybe.
I install it on my frame with E+ wheel battery and tried it.
Much, much better than original the first I had,cogging/jerking is gone even at 50% discharge.
Display is the original one I bought with kit, they programmed it to new motor.
I did 2 tests to make sure is OK and I am going to do another one and after that wheel must be trued.
My E+ bearly reaches 30mph for just a moment at the time without pedalling.
Acceleration when battery fresh is fenomenal, the best of any bike I tested, motor bearly get warm after 15 minutes of power level 8 riding, power drawn rearly approach 1000W usually around 900W even near top speed, but that's according to EMS display, of course I will be installing Cycle Analist from ebikes.ca.
I will write more about spped and distance reading from display, I am veryfying it.

But to keep things in balance.
I am bitter that it cost me $80+$150=$230/!!!!/ to fix my motor which should NOT be sold to dealer right off assembly line just like that with no testing. Motor jerked/cogged right on the first day, how come that EMS didn`t detect it before selling to my dealer. Obviously they didn`t tested it right.
Now how much was my kit? - $2830 dollars!!

My rear wheel had a hop in it when I got it. Overall still very happy with mine. Your disappointment is justified.
I'm getting close to 3000 miles on mine since November and loving it. I use it far more than I thought I would.

Metalman, I am afraid you have less than 3000miles on yours now, do you have GPS to veryfy distance and speed?

sorry

I love the concept of the E+ system and I hope they see fit to start putting lithium batteries in their front hubs but if I were using a Big Dummy as the platform I think I would run a Stokemonkey and call it good. E+ would prolly clean up big time if they did nothing but make their batteries compatible with other companies hub or bottom bracket motor systems.

H

Agreed, the battery thing is golden, but regn... it really isn't the Holy Grail. Bikes just don't spend enough time coasting nor is there much mass there... E=MC*2. If you don't have any mass there you ain't going to get much energy back into the battery. Not to mention losses of all kinds in the conversion. You might have heard all this before. You heard right.

H

My display went out again last week so I lost another two days. So far so good on the new one. I have about 3150 miles on it now. I have a cateye computer on it.

Not to nitpick, but that is completely, utterly, the wrong equation to use for such a situation. e=mc^2 tells you the equivalent energy contained in an amount of mass.

If anything, you should be looking at the kinetic energy of the rider + bike system, E=0.5mv^2.