I just had a guy run me off of the road. It was in a 35 mph zone his speed was at least 65. It happened so fast all I could do was head into the grass.
I want some kind of a sports camera to record things like this. Are there any good ones under $200?

Mirrors and Bright Strobe Tail Light might save your butt...The Camera won't help you after you are Gone.

It was head on - the guy tried to kill me. I want pictures not some blinky light.

Camera or not, you need to call the police and report it.

You should have dialed 911 on the spot, right there from the side of the road.

Shame on you if you don't call the police.


-Tim-

Can one of the mods delete this thread?
Thanks

+1,

Cameras don't make you safer. They simply record and save evidence your heirs can use later.

Not saying don't buy one. Just reminding you to keep your head straight and do whatever you can to make sure that the camera is a total waste of time.

Really annoying to try to get some information on something and wind up with ignorant, holier-than-thou answers.

I have the GoPro Hero Session cameras and they work pretty well. Cost was $199 (this is the previous version not the brand new release). The only thing I don't like is that you have to use the app to delete files that you've uploaded.

I can sympathize with you on the kind of responses you are getting. The "ignore list" feature is very useful here. I wear a camera on the road (shut it off on the bike path), and have turned in multiple incidents to law enforcement, resulting in multiple tickets being issued. Here is an example of the kind of reactions you get if you post a successful prosecution of an offender on bikeforums:
https://www.bikeforums.net/advocacy-s...uzzed-bus.html

I use Replay XD cameras, and really like them, but the company seems to have gone into hibernation, so I can't give them a recommendation. I used to use the Contour cameras, but they have such a wide-angle lens (170 degrees), that it makes it difficult to catch a license plate on an oncoming car. However, they share the ability to rotate the unit to any angle to level the image, which is very useful on a helmet.

i run the first generation garmin virb cameras front and rear. they can currently be had for under $100each on gpscity and give about 2hrs run time.

The Ion Speed Pro is a decent action camera and can often be found for well under $100. It's weatherproof as-is so no extra housing is needed. Image quality is very good in daylight. I swap it between my handlebar mount and a homebrewed helmet mount. It's mostly on my helmet now to save time between bikes, and because one bike has a handlebar bag that blocks the handlebar mount.

Image quality is only fair at night with more noise than the latest model Go Pros.

It can be a little picky about media cards so be sure to keep an eye on the camera's behavior. If it cuts out unexpectedly every few minutes or seconds with a blank card, and the battery is fully charged, try reformatting the card. If that doesn't clear up the problem try another Class 10 card.

Because it's primarily an action camera rather than a traffic documentation camera, the ultra-wide angle lens doesn't always record full license plate details on vehicles at the far edge of the frame. I'd rather have a moderate wide angle lens but for the price of the Ion Speed Pro I can't complain.

I delete most videos when I get home. Most are too boring to even look at. I have recorded a few instances of reckless driving but none resulted in accidents so I ignored 'em. So far I've reported only one, to the driver's employer (Domino's). Their safety hotline folks seemed satisfied with my report and didn't ask for a copy of the video. Most of the videos I keep are of local group rides just for amusing friends, if anything interesting happens.

Regarding advice to stay calm and do ... whatever, easier said than done. I've worked in emergency medicine, responded to several accidents and been in one pretty bad accident myself that broke my back and neck and caused a concussion, although I never lost consciousness. But despite my training and experience I did almost everything wrong after my own accident. The only thing I did right was to take care of my grandsons immediately and get them medical attention.

We may believe we know what we'd do in an emergency, when the adrenaline is pumping and we're in fight or flight mode. But until it actually happens we're just guessing. Usually we respond reflexively according to our training and conditioning. Few of us actually train as victims. We may train to respond to other victims, but not to prepare ourselves for our own emergencies.

So don't knock yourself for not being sure how to respond. And a camera is a reasonable precaution to record the most egregious incidents.

I like to go to Techmoan - Techmoan for action cam reviews.

I believe the Drift Stealth 2 is currently the best bang for buck helmet camera. I personally use a Nautilus camera. But it's only got around an hour's worth of battery life, which may or may not be good for you.

Techmoan is great!
But one thing I noticed about his dashcam reviews makes me jealous as hell of the Europeans:
The European license plate is so easy to read, that it doesn't matter what resolution you choose, or how wide-angle the lens is, you can always read the plate! Compare that to the stupid tiny lettering and (decorative backgrounds) on US plates.

On one occasion, I was riding the motorbike up in the mountains and some fool making an illegal pass around a blind curve tried to hit me head-on. I swerved almost into the ditch to keep from getting killed. But thanks to his high approach speed and the 170 degree Angle-Of-View of the camera, there was no way to read the license plate. So there was no point in filing a complaint with the only ID being "silver Porsche".

some friends have purchased the Cycliq light/camera devices.... this is their front light/camera:

https://cycliq.com/products/fly12


Steve in Peoria

Techmoan is great fun to watch, but only a few of his reviews are relevant to bicycling -- the cameras he tests on his motorcycle. Some of his recommended video cameras are not weatherproof and housings may not be readily available. Or they may require cable hookups that compromise weathertight integrity.

As you noted, many Euro license plates are huge compared with US plates. So I look at details in signs and other small lettering to evaluate resolution.

A few things I've learned by experimenting with my various digital still cameras with video options:

• For traffic documentation, wider isn't better. I'd prefer a lens angle of view equivalent to a 28-35mm lens (35mm film/full frame), or 24mm at the widest. The near-fisheye view used by Ion and similar action cams isn't ideal for traffic documentation.
• Faster frame rates give you a better shot at snagging a blur-free frame. I mostly use the 60 fps option. Unfortunately that's limited to 720p on my Ion Speed Pro.
• Most affordable action and traffic cams offer decent daylight performance. Where they fall apart is in nighttime use. Three factors hinder good resolution of license plates or detailed enough views of a vehicle to identify it without a license plate: high ISO nighttime noise -- if the luminance and chromatic noise don't obscure fine detail, the noise reduction smoothing will; the slower shutter speeds often make it impossible to record blur free frames; poor dynamic range with blown out highlights and featureless shadows.
• Bigger is better. Hopefully the next generation of traffic/action cams will use the one-inch or CX sensor (in Nikon parlance), already used by Sony, Nikon and some high Samsung smart phones.
• Get a camera that can run almost indefinitely via an external USB battery connection. The Ion Speed Pro will run continuously (with each video segment being approx 40 minutes long and nearly seamless between segments) as long as the media card and battery hold out. Sometimes I run it off an external Jackery battery via a USB cord in good weather. Kind of a hassle on my helmet, but it works as long as the battery pack is small enough.

I ride a lot at night and seldom get videos clear enough to record complete license plates. So I have to rely on other characteristics of vehicles, and a partial license plate. So far the only time that's been relevant was when I reported a Domino's driver to the corporate safety office. They didn't need the video and said my description of the vehicle, partial license plate and time/location were enough to go on.

To be serious about this I'd really need the best low light performance available, regardless of weather-proofing features. So I'm considering some cameras with better nighttime performance and buying a separate weatherproof housing. Price is an obstacle for me and I can't afford the best performing weatherproof cameras.

From what I've seen on Techmoan, the best night performance cameras use the Sony "Exmor" sensor.
Sony also sells it to to other mfgrs.
One I can think of right now is OLFI: olfi camera | official store
The Youtube user "AndyManCam" (who does lots of motorcycle videos) has tested it: https://www.youtube.com/user/AnyManCam/videos

Yup.

Seriously, folks, let's save the naysaying stuff for the Argument & Sarcasm forum. We can get all the coulda-woulda-shoulda, debates over minutiae, dismissive attitudes and HTFU non-advice we can swallow there.

The electronics and gadgets forum should be about specific hardware/software solutions.

Yup, I noticed that in some recent Techmoan videos. I may try one of those lower priced cams he's reviewed that use the Exmor, and see how it goes as a traffic cam. If it works out I may move the Ion Speed Pro to the rear rack, or just continue using it on my helmet.

Incidentally, another challenge is audio quality. Wind noise can overwhelm everything else. I've noticed some cyclists will call out the license numbers and descriptions of offending vehicles, so there's a backup in case the video isn't clear.

It may also be essential to record clear audio in case the impact or assault comes from off camera. If the camera is mounted on the bike but the bike isn't facing toward the vehicle or a person who assaults the cyclist, clear audio may be the only record.

I've rigged up homebrewed wind screens for my various cameras. A Velcro type tape on the camera body over the mic input helps -- 3M Command is good, secure and easily detachable. I cut thin strips of the 3M Command tape and surround the mic port with the strips -- it's essential to avoid covering the mic with the 3M Command tape because the soft foam substrate will mute the sound completely.

Then I'll use the soft cloth loop section of Velcro clothing tape over the mic. This is the stuff that needs to be sewn on, no adhesive. It's okay to cover the mic with the soft cloth Velcro loop tape. It's almost completely transparent to audio. Does a good job at blocking most wind noise, and is lower profile than most wind screens.

However this hasn't worked out as well with the Ion Speed Pro mic when mounted on my helmet. It does work with the camera mounted on the handlebar. My best guess is the helmet's vents are kicking up too much air turbulence. So far the only solution I've found that reduces wind noise on the helmet is to wrap the entire barrel body of the Speed Pro in Glad wrap! Even then it still picks up some wind noise. It might work better with a mountain bike helmet or commuter helmet, the types with fewer and smaller vents.

Currently my cameras are a Contour Roam3 on the helmet and a Fly6 on the back.

Just a warning, you WILL NOT be able to read the license plates of a car blowing past you 30+ MPH over your speed. I doubt even with the latest GoPro Hero Black set at 120 FPS (and those are $500). The bitrate just isn't high enough to do it.

Audio while moving is always going to be a loss. Some cameras have usable audio when you're standing still. Usually if you have a camera where it has to be inside a case to be waterproof, the audio will be zero inside the case. The Contour Roam3 and Fly6 are both waterproof without a case, and they produce OK sound, though still miles from great.

My minimum criteria for cameras are, 3 hours runtime, waterproof, relatively lightweight, reasonable mounting systems. GoPro fails on both battery life (though the newest may just BARELY qualify) and reasonable mounting (seriously, there's no elegant way to mount a brick).

I ride with the Cycliq Fly6 on my rear, which is 720p and a red light combination. Fairly decent camera, but since my state does not have front license plates, it's not been all that useful for that. It does do a decent job of recording audio, frequently capturing my less than polite replies to the yobos offering their interpretation of traffic law. It ran me around $120 on a seasonal sale. The Fly12 is too pricey for me, at $350 but sure looks nice.

I also run a GoPro knockoff from Aldi (Bresser brand) on the front. For $40 I cannot complain. It records in 1080p, loops in multiple time segments, came with a waterproof housing, and all sorts of mounting options. Capturing license plates is hit or miss during daylight hours, but at night forget it. Sound recording is turned off, since the microphone is encased in the housing. The battery lasts for 2 hours max per charge. I usually charge it at work and home after my commute legs.

I don't expect the cameras are going to protect me from bad drivers, but hope they may give evidence for myself or my family.

That's called an heir investment.

FWIW, you can get GoPro lookalikes that have 4K resolution off BangGood for < $50 these days. Battery life listed at 1 to 1.5 hours depending on mode.

BTW the Fly12 is said to have very bad quality control issues.

Incidentally, if you enjoy experimenting with video to document your rides and have a little extra money to play with, try an older generation (2012 era) Nikon J1, J2, S1 or similar entry level Nikon 1 System camera.

These featured the CX or one-inch sensor, also used by Sony and Samsung. That's an old video TV tube descriptor -- the sensors aren't physically one-inch in width, height or diagonally, but are larger than the teensy sensors used on most smart phones, action/traffic cams and entry level P&S digicams. The slightly larger sensor will give an edge in resolution of fine detail and low light performance with less noise at high ISOs.

The kit zooms may jiggle too much and eventually be damaged from road vibration, but the fixed focal length 10mm f/2.8 Nikkor would be ideal for a traffic camera. This is equivalent to a 28mm wide angle on a 35mm film camera or full frame digital camera.

If I'm recalling correctly the early Nikon 1 System cameras had 10 mp still resolution, 1080p at 30 fps and 720 at 60 fps. That's what my V1 has, which is spec'd a bit higher than the J1 and S1.

I used my V1 several times to record video from my bike in 1080 and 720, and the quality was much better than the Ion Speed Pro, especially in dim light. It recorded license numbers more reliably.

However it is relatively bulky and heavy, making it a challenge to mount securely. I used a stout nylon mini-tripod and ballhead, bolted to a metal base and lashed to the handlebar or head tube with tape, Velcro strips and zip ties. Not elegant but it worked. The Nikon V1 had the option of taking still photos without interrupting the video (in 1080 or 720 format, rather than the standard 3:2 aspect ratio). The simple, uncluttered top plate featured only the large shutter release button, video on/off button, and small, recessed on/off button. Easy to operate while cycling in full auto program mode.

I've also considering trying an Olympus Tough Cam. These are weatherproof, shock proof, with internal zooms that move very little. They're expensive compared with the cheaper knockoff action and dashboard cams, but possibly more versatile for some bicycling uses, especially if you enjoy taking snapshots along the ride.

99% of action cameras aren't very good for documenting bicycling. The battery life is the major limitation, since you would want to have the camera running continuously.

So either you need an external battery or something like a Fly12. The GoPro Session is a great camera. For the price, it's incredible. It does an excellent job dealing with sunlight and other bright sources.

Also, you aren't going to get any license plates in the dark. The headlights saturate the camera and you won't catch the plate.

There are a few other cameras with 3+ hour battery life (my min criteria, guarantees camera running for a whole leg of my commute even if I stop to change a tire or something like that). Contour Roam3 is one of them.