Which headlights are programmable?
#26
U*icyclist
Thread Starter
This isn't programmable, but I believe it exhibits the behavior you would prefer:
Light & Motion Urban 900 (Probably the entire "Urban" series behaves similarly):
This light has two modes. Race mode lets you select between full power, and the next lower setting; 900 lumens, or 350. Regular mode cycles between 900, 350, 150, and sine-wave flasher. The 900 is under $100 in price.
Light & Motion Urban 900 (Probably the entire "Urban" series behaves similarly):
This light has two modes. Race mode lets you select between full power, and the next lower setting; 900 lumens, or 350. Regular mode cycles between 900, 350, 150, and sine-wave flasher. The 900 is under $100 in price.
Yeah but if the lamp you have gives you the "choice" to use either the self-contained battery and/or carry an external battery bank with you, you pretty much have the best of both worlds. Pretty much depends on the user as to just how useful something like that can be. Personally I can get by with just the self-contained as long as I know I'm only going to be riding in the dark for no more than 3hrs. Of course all of this depends on the user's priorities. If you have to have programmable modes, hidden flash modes and longer run times the modular light systems are the way to go. Otherwise if you want something with a very good cutoff road beam pattern you'll have to buy a self-contained lamp designed for such with either a one or two cell internal battery setup. Hopefully though future models may offer more features. In the mean time the buyer has to choose which features are the most desired and then go with a lamp that gives them what they want.
#27
Zoom zoom zoom zoom bonk
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Stupid question... how much light do you need on a unicycle?
PS, Zebralights are programable and make great helmet lights.
H600w Mk IV 18650 XHP35 Neutral White Headlamp
PS, Zebralights are programable and make great helmet lights.
H600w Mk IV 18650 XHP35 Neutral White Headlamp
#28
U*icyclist
Thread Starter
Depends how well you want to see...
My current light puts out 600 lumens and I find that to be a comfortable amount. I'm not doing any high speed descents (it's basically a low-geared fixie from that point of view) but I do ride plenty of unlit areas.
The Zebralights do indeed look nice. I haven't found the need for a head mounted light yet, but to be fair, I've never actually tried riding with one. I've certainly wished that I could look around corners in advance sometimes, but I'm also a bit wary of washing out ground shadows. I may give it a try one day.
My current light puts out 600 lumens and I find that to be a comfortable amount. I'm not doing any high speed descents (it's basically a low-geared fixie from that point of view) but I do ride plenty of unlit areas.
PS, Zebralights are programable and make great helmet lights.
H600w Mk IV 18650 XHP35 Neutral White Headlamp
H600w Mk IV 18650 XHP35 Neutral White Headlamp
#29
U*icyclist
Thread Starter
Are the Zebralight runtimes legit? I was just looking at them and they put many cycling headlights to shame. Of course it's hard to say what capacity battery they have in mind when quoting runtimes...
Last edited by lightbulbjim; 07-16-18 at 04:02 AM. Reason: typo
#30
Zoom zoom zoom zoom bonk
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The high modes are PID controlled so the power gets reduced as they heat up, hence the long runtimes.
#31
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The Urbans look nice, and I did take a look at them. Specifically the Urban 1000 FC. Am I correct in thinking though that each time you switch it on you need to choose race mode? Or does it remember whether you were last in race or normal mode and go back to where you were?
Yeah, true. We're spoiled for choice really .
Yeah, true. We're spoiled for choice really .
The Urban 900 does not allow for simultaneous charging and use. The 1000 FC might -- it's a different charging system. In practice I roll with the medium level most of the time, and on a two hour ride the charge indicator notifies me of 50% charge at about the 90 minute time. I've never run it down completely in night riding, but the manual says I should get about three hours in medium mode. Medium is supposed to be 450 lum. It's more than adequate for my needs, but YMMV.
#32
Senior Member
Last night was the first time I ever used the program mode on the Raveman CR-900. Usually I'm good to go with just the medium since it gives me the most usable run time and I can still see fairly well. The program mode on the 900 is kind of screwy. Unlike most lamps that allow programming this one doesn't do it by step. It does a fade in /out sort of thing where you just have to judge relative brightness then after it stops you can look at the listed run time and decide if that is what you want. I set mine up ( from a full charge ) to have the run time indicator start out at 1.5 hrs. Definitely brighter than the medium mode so I'll probably try to do that on a regular basis since most of my local rides are between 1-1.5 hrs in the dark. I found out that it does actually save the setting as long as you don't change modes. Turning it on or off has no effect on the programmed mode. That makes things somewhat easier but would be so much better if you could change modes and still save the setting of the programmed mode. Not a big issue when on the road but if on an MUP I occasionally will encounter other people and need to lower the output. Personally I don't worry too much about run time as I always have a back up but it would be "Oh so nice" to be able to run an external battery for the longer rides.
#33
U*icyclist
Thread Starter
Last night was the first time I ever used the program mode on the Raveman CR-900. Usually I'm good to go with just the medium since it gives me the most usable run time and I can still see fairly well. The program mode on the 900 is kind of screwy. Unlike most lamps that allow programming this one doesn't do it by step. It does a fade in /out sort of thing where you just have to judge relative brightness then after it stops you can look at the listed run time and decide if that is what you want. I set mine up ( from a full charge ) to have the run time indicator start out at 1.5 hrs. Definitely brighter than the medium mode so I'll probably try to do that on a regular basis since most of my local rides are between 1-1.5 hrs in the dark. I found out that it does actually save the setting as long as you don't change modes. Turning it on or off has no effect on the programmed mode. That makes things somewhat easier but would be so much better if you could change modes and still save the setting of the programmed mode. Not a big issue when on the road but if on an MUP I occasionally will encounter other people and need to lower the output. Personally I don't worry too much about run time as I always have a back up but it would be "Oh so nice" to be able to run an external battery for the longer rides.
Something that I've noticed with most of the lights with shaped beams (like the Ravemens) is that the optic is asymmetric so it can't be installed upside down. Kinda makes sense, but sucks if you want to run the light hanging under the handlebars. It would be nice if there was a shaped beam light which allowed the optic to be flipped for this scenario.
#34
aka Tom Reingold
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Dynamo, man.
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#35
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This isn't programmable, but I believe it exhibits the behavior you would prefer:
Light & Motion Urban 900 (Probably the entire "Urban" series behaves similarly):
This light has two modes. Race mode lets you select between full power, and the next lower setting; 900 lumens, or 350. Regular mode cycles between 900, 350, 150, and sine-wave flasher. The 900 is under $100 in price.
Light & Motion Urban 900 (Probably the entire "Urban" series behaves similarly):
This light has two modes. Race mode lets you select between full power, and the next lower setting; 900 lumens, or 350. Regular mode cycles between 900, 350, 150, and sine-wave flasher. The 900 is under $100 in price.
I own the Urban 900 and was not aware of the race mode feature. This will be very handy for me. I should have read the manual but I work in IT.
Thanks a bunch!
-Tim-
#36
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"I didn't know it could do that!" 😕
#37
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So in race mode the options are 900/450, not 900/350. Runtimes are 1.5h/3h
#38
Senior Member
That sounds like an annoying way to program the levels in.
Something that I've noticed with most of the lights with shaped beams (like the Ravemens) is that the optic is asymmetric so it can't be installed upside down. Kinda makes sense, but sucks if you want to run the light hanging under the handlebars. It would be nice if there was a shaped beam light which allowed the optic to be flipped for this scenario.
Something that I've noticed with most of the lights with shaped beams (like the Ravemens) is that the optic is asymmetric so it can't be installed upside down. Kinda makes sense, but sucks if you want to run the light hanging under the handlebars. It would be nice if there was a shaped beam light which allowed the optic to be flipped for this scenario.
Personally I wouldn't want to use the 900 upside down because then you wouldn't be able to see the digital run time indicator. Of course if you just wanted to run the lamp below the bars you could always use a small "L" shaped bar extension and the remote should still allow you to change modes without too much problem..
#39
U*icyclist
Thread Starter
I just rediscovered Ding headlights. I'd come across them before but had forgotten about them. They don't seem to be particularly well known.
They're interesting because they have a shaped beam and are designed to be mounted underneath the handlebars (my preferred style). No programming though and nine (!) modes to scroll through.
They're interesting because they have a shaped beam and are designed to be mounted underneath the handlebars (my preferred style). No programming though and nine (!) modes to scroll through.
#40
☢
I just rediscovered Ding headlights. I'd come across them before but had forgotten about them. They don't seem to be particularly well known.
They're interesting because they have a shaped beam and are designed to be mounted underneath the handlebars (my preferred style). No programming though and nine (!) modes to scroll through.
They're interesting because they have a shaped beam and are designed to be mounted underneath the handlebars (my preferred style). No programming though and nine (!) modes to scroll through.
Although my present light sphere is wide enough to be seen from the sides when moving I wouldn't mind the extra piece of mind of a side beam when stationary.
#41
Senior Member
Under/over handlebar mounting should really be universal at this point. If I ever need to get another light this will be one of my first requirements. Side illumination being the second.
Although my present light sphere is wide enough to be seen from the sides when moving I wouldn't mind the extra piece of mind of a side beam when stationary.
Although my present light sphere is wide enough to be seen from the sides when moving I wouldn't mind the extra piece of mind of a side beam when stationary.
Not sure why people feel the need to mount a lamp under the bars seeing that no matter under or on top, the lamp is still taking space up on the bars. When mounting under the bars you have to deal with whether or not your cables or shifters are in the way ( if using flat bars ). Not to mention it would seem counter intuitive that being under the bars would make it harder to change modes ( although in case of the Ding the buttons are on the back. )
More info is available on the Ding. Back in 2015 they were only listing these with a 2500mAh battery which is somewhat lame. Looks like the side light is provided by a COB panel under the lamp, hence the need to mount under the bars. Heck, if that's all they are doing you can buy a 100 lumen white COB light and just mount it so it shines downward...WTH. Anyway, I'll stick with my wheel lights and Planetbike amber side light for getting seen from the sides. The Ding is okay but I'd rather the side light be aimed directly to the sides
#42
U*icyclist
Thread Starter
Each to their own. See my picture earlier in this thread showing my unicycle handlebar and why I hang the light underneath. There's simply no way to mount it on top. I do appreciate that most of you are duocyclists so this doesn't apply .
On my (drop bar) bike I also like to mount the light underneath as it gets it out of the way. It's true that it takes up the same amount of bar space, but it makes things feel less cluttered. It also minimises the chances of light shining on my out front computer mount.
On my (drop bar) bike I also like to mount the light underneath as it gets it out of the way. It's true that it takes up the same amount of bar space, but it makes things feel less cluttered. It also minimises the chances of light shining on my out front computer mount.
#43
☢
Not sure why people feel the need to mount a lamp under the bars seeing that no matter under or on top, the lamp is still taking space up on the bars. When mounting under the bars you have to deal with whether or not your cables or shifters are in the way ( if using flat bars ). Not to mention it would seem counter intuitive that being under the bars would make it harder to change modes ( although in case of the Ding the buttons are on the back. )
Having more mounting options to keep them separate are always better than not having enough. I might add rotation and level since my hybrid handlebars are not completely straight. My present light mounts level, so it sits horizontal on the same plane as the handlebars. Also keep in mind the aesthetics some might want to consider.
Anyway, I'll stick with my wheel lights and Planetbike amber side light for getting seen from the sides. The Ding is okay but I'd rather the side light be aimed directly to the sides
Last edited by KraneXL; 07-22-18 at 01:23 AM.
#44
C*pt*i* Obvious
#45
☢
Nice vid.
#46
U*icyclist
Thread Starter
#47
C*pt*i* Obvious
Actually, none of the oncoming vehicles flashed me. (the one on the bridge was going over a hump and his lights appeared to flash, but only lined up with the camera)
Its an older video, I corrected the light angle months ago, even still my light output is nothing compared to most car headlights.
People in China flash high beams ALL the time, especially if you don't use lights.
Last edited by SHBR; 07-22-18 at 04:48 AM.
#48
Senior Member
More mounting options are always better than fewer. There are all type of handlebar mounting accessories (phones/GPs, cameras, etc.) so you can't always be sure when one might not interfere with the other.
Having more mounting options to keep them separate are always better than not having enough. I might add rotation and level since my hybrid handlebars are not completely straight. My present light mounts level, so it sits horizontal on the same plane as the handlebars. Also keep in mind the aesthetics some might want to consider.
Of course, something like that ( wheel lights and side lights ) is best for maximum versatility and viability. However, on the cons side it also add more cost and extra attention since you have more light to worry about e.g., charge, adjust, keep track of timing, etc.
Having more mounting options to keep them separate are always better than not having enough. I might add rotation and level since my hybrid handlebars are not completely straight. My present light mounts level, so it sits horizontal on the same plane as the handlebars. Also keep in mind the aesthetics some might want to consider.
Of course, something like that ( wheel lights and side lights ) is best for maximum versatility and viability. However, on the cons side it also add more cost and extra attention since you have more light to worry about e.g., charge, adjust, keep track of timing, etc.
Yes, having wheel lights means more things to fuss with and more things to charge. My wheel lights though ( two on each wheel ) are small and use only one AAA cell for each. In all I have to routinely charge via USB 11 different things ( each wheel light I count as one ), not including my phone or the lamp that uses an external battery. Yep, that's a lot of stuff. That's why I just bought a ten port USB charger as I was running out of USB charging options.
While you really don't need something like wheel lights they are just so cool that having them makes it worth the added chore of charging the batteries. I get compliments on them all the time. Nothing makes a bike stand out at night from the sides like good wheel lights. Just the other night I was riding along and passed one of those glass enclosed bus stops. As I did I just happened to turn my head to notice that the glass was acting like a mirror and I could see myself riding by. This is the first time I ever actually seen what my wheel lights look like from the observer's POV when riding at night. Absolutely awesome!
#49
U*icyclist
Thread Starter
Well, my Gloworm Alpha arrived. Initial impressions:
It's living on my bike for now, where it's nice and discreet underneath my out-front computer mount. It's not possible to put it on my unicycle with the stock mounts, but I'll keep my eyes open for the elusive perfect GoPro mount which might make it possible. Otherwise I'm still in the market for the perfect unicycle light...
- Build quality is very good. Lightweight and solid. Time will tell how tough it is, as always.
- UI is ok. Still more settings than I really need. Double clicking is a bit of a faff so I can't see myself bothering with commuter mode. A pity since I'd prefer to just have a two-level mode available and nothing else. But you can't please everybody all of the time .
- Beam pattern is excellent. Compared to my old light there is just no comparison. I'm using the combo spot/wide optic for now. About the only other thing I'd like to have is a cutoff for road riding.
- Neutral white is like seeing in colour and cool white is like seeing in black and white.
It's living on my bike for now, where it's nice and discreet underneath my out-front computer mount. It's not possible to put it on my unicycle with the stock mounts, but I'll keep my eyes open for the elusive perfect GoPro mount which might make it possible. Otherwise I'm still in the market for the perfect unicycle light...
#50
☢