been researching bike lights, and scuba diving lights also for bad weather riding.

a lot of them are based on the same parts,

for instance, a lot of light makers base their lamps on the 18650 rechargeable Lithium Ion battery.

this page talks about the 18650>

https://commonsensehome.com/18650-ba...%20unprotected.


LED's:

a lot of the torch makers use the same LED's , a lot of them are made by Cree.

here is their webpage>

https://cree-led.com/

that is all.

I used to go night diving, even during storms. that was fun. but I wouldn't use a SCUBA light on a bike. too heavy

I just love mystery posts where we have to draw our own conclusion to why the OP was even made.

I've used Cree LEDs in my home-built lights for many years now, and they have been great. I haven't kept up on things for 10 years now, and am not sure who is coming out with the latest and greatest parts.

For instance... I've got a dead B&M Eyc that I hope to use for experiments. The main LED is in a package that's not familiar to me. Anyone familiar with it? (it is the middle of the three LEDs in this photo).


The LED package is about 0.1 inch (about 3mm) on a side. The area with the phosphors must be closer to 1mm on a side.

Steve in Peoria

That's an Osram Opto Oslon Black flat
https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/leds/8769303/


PS, Have you noticed that a lot of cars use petrol in their tanks and rubber on their wheels? Interesting isn't it?

Thanks for the link!
When I meter out the LED with Fluke in diode mode, I'm not getting the LED to illuminate at all, and the forward voltage is rather low in both directions. Maybe that's why the light is dead?? Or it might be the LED driving circuitry that is dead.
Either way, it's nice to have the datasheet for the LED. I was thinking of using a home-brew driver circuit and running it at more than 3W. Since the datasheet says it can run at 1500mA, it might be possible to get 4.5W out of it. Might need a bigger heatsink, though.

Steve in Peoria