Wired vs Wireless Bike Computers
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Wired vs Wireless Bike Computers
New guy card, I'm not sure if this has been visited before, seems like it might be something that has been hotly debated previously, but I couldn't find it.
If there is a thread already, please send a link, otherwise. Let's get a good discussion going.
I would like to hear from folks that:
- Prefer wired bike computers.
- Prefer wireless bike computers.
- Tried (or succeeded) to switch to wireless after enjoying wired computers previously.
- Tried to use a wired computer, but didn't like since (whatever; ie. wireless offered more stats say).
I guess GPS devices could fit in here as well, but myself, I treat those in a separate category. I "always" have a bike computer, while I "sometimes" have a GPS. Also, if I were using a GPS as my primary Odometer, I know I would miss some miles for:
- Forgetting to start the record, or
- Not willing to wait for Sattelites (missing somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 a mile at the start), no big deal but does enter my thinking a little.
Myself, I am having difficulty changing from wired to wireless. But the market seems to be going that direction whether I like it or not. I might get more into that later. But for now, I'd like to hear your preferences and why. I really want to emphasize the simpler computers like the Sundings that are so often rebranded, but by no means, want to limit the discussion to those. And if you switched to Wireless and "wouldn't think of having a wired device any more," I'd really like to hear from ya.
Let's try to keep it lighthearted, I'm sure people are going to be passionate about their computers
, so let's try to respect all opinions. That's a tall order I'm sure, I mean, this is the internet, right?
If there is a thread already, please send a link, otherwise. Let's get a good discussion going.
I would like to hear from folks that:
- Prefer wired bike computers.
- Prefer wireless bike computers.
- Tried (or succeeded) to switch to wireless after enjoying wired computers previously.
- Tried to use a wired computer, but didn't like since (whatever; ie. wireless offered more stats say).
I guess GPS devices could fit in here as well, but myself, I treat those in a separate category. I "always" have a bike computer, while I "sometimes" have a GPS. Also, if I were using a GPS as my primary Odometer, I know I would miss some miles for:
- Forgetting to start the record, or
- Not willing to wait for Sattelites (missing somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 a mile at the start), no big deal but does enter my thinking a little.
Myself, I am having difficulty changing from wired to wireless. But the market seems to be going that direction whether I like it or not. I might get more into that later. But for now, I'd like to hear your preferences and why. I really want to emphasize the simpler computers like the Sundings that are so often rebranded, but by no means, want to limit the discussion to those. And if you switched to Wireless and "wouldn't think of having a wired device any more," I'd really like to hear from ya.
Let's try to keep it lighthearted, I'm sure people are going to be passionate about their computers

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I use a Garmin GPS for all my data recording and display. Wired vs. wired non -GPS is a simple matter of do you want to add install time to use wired, vs. simply adding a wireless sensor to the fork. Later you need to replace the transmitter battery, which is not an issue with wired. Your preference.
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Some of your wired cyclometers you have to turn on too. Modern GPS's don't take long at all to be ready to go. Only time they might take more than just turning them on is if you travel quite a distance away from where you last ended a ride and turned it off. Quite a distance being on the order of several thousand miles, but even then only a minute or so. Not the 10 or more minutes some very ancient GPS's use to take. But you do have to push a button to start it recording, so there is that. But it'll still give you the speed and some other stuff till without the timer being started until it automatically shuts off, unless you disable that.
My big thing for the GPS cyclometers is that I can see were I was on the map after a ride. And I can see my pertinent metrics at every log interval. 1 second for me. So very useful for training if you wish to get that into it.
Wired cyclometers are less expensive. But you have wires that interfere with cleaning the bike. Which is the nice thing about hydraulic and electronic shifting. It eliminates the brake and shift cables along the outside of the bike as hoses and wires lend themselves better for the bends encountered internally on many frames.
Cyclometers that are wireless for the sensors were at one time getting up toward the cost of a low end GPS cyclometer. Don't know where they stand now.
Trying to keep the manufacturing costs down to compete more favorably with the GPS cyclometers, the wired and wireless might have a lower MTBF. But that's just my speculation. And of course the lower end brands offering really inexpensive GPS cyclometers probably have a lower MTBF too.
It really doesn't matter to me what you use. Just use what you like, suits your purpose and is useful to you. Don't fault me if I don't find value in the things you like.
My big thing for the GPS cyclometers is that I can see were I was on the map after a ride. And I can see my pertinent metrics at every log interval. 1 second for me. So very useful for training if you wish to get that into it.
Wired cyclometers are less expensive. But you have wires that interfere with cleaning the bike. Which is the nice thing about hydraulic and electronic shifting. It eliminates the brake and shift cables along the outside of the bike as hoses and wires lend themselves better for the bends encountered internally on many frames.
Cyclometers that are wireless for the sensors were at one time getting up toward the cost of a low end GPS cyclometer. Don't know where they stand now.
Trying to keep the manufacturing costs down to compete more favorably with the GPS cyclometers, the wired and wireless might have a lower MTBF. But that's just my speculation. And of course the lower end brands offering really inexpensive GPS cyclometers probably have a lower MTBF too.
It really doesn't matter to me what you use. Just use what you like, suits your purpose and is useful to you. Don't fault me if I don't find value in the things you like.
#4
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I'm currently using a Bontrager RIDEtime Elite, which fits into its own weird little niche. It is in many ways like an old-school digital cyclocomputer (no GPS capability; no granular recording of data; runs for a long time on a coin cell battery), but uses ANT+ wireless sensors. There is some configurability for what is displayed, and I have mine set up such that I can see what I want during a typical fitness/pleasure ride with little (often none at all) button-pushing during the ride. I need glasses for typical reading and use of a computer, but the display on the RIDEtime Elite - even the characters on the lower section of the display - works for me without magnification. I appreciate not having to wear "readers" glasses while riding!
For sensors, I'm using a Garmin Speed Sensor 2, a Garmin Cadence Sensor 2, and a Polar H10 heart rate monitor. Before a ride, I spin the wheel and spin the crank to wake up those sensors, then wake up the RIDEtime Elite and let it connect. I have experienced no drama with this setup.
I like not having wires on the frame, and I like the modern speed and cadence sensors that don't involve a magnet / sensor setup. Very clean in appearance, and again, no drama.
All of the sensors I'm running have both ANT+ and Bluetooth. If I want to "record my ride", then I can do that using the Cyclemeter app running on a phone that stays in my jersey pocket during the ride. The RIDEtime Elite is using ANT+, and the phone is using Bluetooth, so they're completely independent of each other.
If I ever decide to move to a modern, full-blown cycling computer, then I'm already set for sensors.
For sensors, I'm using a Garmin Speed Sensor 2, a Garmin Cadence Sensor 2, and a Polar H10 heart rate monitor. Before a ride, I spin the wheel and spin the crank to wake up those sensors, then wake up the RIDEtime Elite and let it connect. I have experienced no drama with this setup.
I like not having wires on the frame, and I like the modern speed and cadence sensors that don't involve a magnet / sensor setup. Very clean in appearance, and again, no drama.
All of the sensors I'm running have both ANT+ and Bluetooth. If I want to "record my ride", then I can do that using the Cyclemeter app running on a phone that stays in my jersey pocket during the ride. The RIDEtime Elite is using ANT+, and the phone is using Bluetooth, so they're completely independent of each other.
If I ever decide to move to a modern, full-blown cycling computer, then I'm already set for sensors.
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Wired vs Wireless Bike Computers
Some of your wired cyclometers you have to turn on too. Modern GPS's don't take long at all to be ready to go. Only time they might take more than just turning them on is if you travel quite a distance away from where you last ended a ride and turned it off. Quite a distance being on the order of several thousand miles, but even then only a minute or so. Not the 10 or more minutes some very ancient GPS's use to take. But you do have to push a button to start it recording, so there is that. But it'll still give you the speed and some other stuff till without the timer being started until it automatically shuts off, unless you disable that.
My big thing for the GPS cyclometers is that I can see were I was on the map after a ride. And I can see my pertinent metrics at every log interval. 1 second for me. So very useful for training if you wish to get that into it.
Wired cyclometers are less expensive. But you have wires that interfere with cleaning the bike. Which is the nice thing about hydraulic and electronic shifting. It eliminates the brake and shift cables along the outside of the bike as hoses and wires lend themselves better for the bends encountered internally on many frames.
Cyclometers that are wireless for the sensors were at one time getting up toward the cost of a low end GPS cyclometer. Don't know where they stand now.
Trying to keep the manufacturing costs down to compete more favorably with the GPS cyclometers, the wired and wireless might have a lower MTBF. But that's just my speculation. And of course the lower end brands offering really inexpensive GPS cyclometers probably have a lower MTBF too.
It really doesn't matter to me what you use. Just use what you like, suits your purpose and is useful to you. Don't fault me if I don't find value in the things you like.
My big thing for the GPS cyclometers is that I can see were I was on the map after a ride. And I can see my pertinent metrics at every log interval. 1 second for me. So very useful for training if you wish to get that into it.
Wired cyclometers are less expensive. But you have wires that interfere with cleaning the bike. Which is the nice thing about hydraulic and electronic shifting. It eliminates the brake and shift cables along the outside of the bike as hoses and wires lend themselves better for the bends encountered internally on many frames.
Cyclometers that are wireless for the sensors were at one time getting up toward the cost of a low end GPS cyclometer. Don't know where they stand now.
Trying to keep the manufacturing costs down to compete more favorably with the GPS cyclometers, the wired and wireless might have a lower MTBF. But that's just my speculation. And of course the lower end brands offering really inexpensive GPS cyclometers probably have a lower MTBF too.
It really doesn't matter to me what you use. Just use what you like, suits your purpose and is useful to you. Don't fault me if I don't find value in the things you like.
My old hiking GPSjust one day, stopped recognizing satellites. I really hate that too! Now I'm using an old iphone with a really old version of Gaia, the version that allows you to export to GPX without logging in to a website.
I have to have a GPS, but it is just not my odometer. Agree with you strongly on a lot of your points.
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My vintage wired computers that were made by a company that no longer exists were quite accurate at counting every wheel revolution. The ones I am still using used a heavier wire instead of a fragile wire that if you accidently yanked on it once would stop working, but I had ones with fragile wire too. Starts with first wheel revolution. Single coin type battery, lasts for years. These are the more generic comments on my wired ones. Model specific issues, does it have cadence, is the weather proofing good, can you reset odometer, that was not part of the question. Mine frustrates me a bit if I ride ten or more hours, the time counter won't go to double digit hour counting, which is an issue on brevets.
By wireless, I assume you mean a conventional bike computer that counts wheel revolutions, not a GPS.
Wireless, batteries (two or three) do not last as long, does not start until you tell it to start. Mine, accuracy is lacking, no two trips of exact same distance are the same, it appears that the transmitter sends a packet of info every few seconds instead of each wheel revolution.
But for travel, a wireless does not have wires that can become a hassle. I would never put a wired one on my folding bike or on a coupled bike.
I had a really cheap wireless unit that would only work if the sender and receiver were within about 14 inches, any further and it did not work. My folding bike with smaller wheels had too much distance between the fork and handlebars to function correctly. But that is unique to that crappy one.
By wireless, I assume you mean a conventional bike computer that counts wheel revolutions, not a GPS.
Wireless, batteries (two or three) do not last as long, does not start until you tell it to start. Mine, accuracy is lacking, no two trips of exact same distance are the same, it appears that the transmitter sends a packet of info every few seconds instead of each wheel revolution.
But for travel, a wireless does not have wires that can become a hassle. I would never put a wired one on my folding bike or on a coupled bike.
I had a really cheap wireless unit that would only work if the sender and receiver were within about 14 inches, any further and it did not work. My folding bike with smaller wheels had too much distance between the fork and handlebars to function correctly. But that is unique to that crappy one.
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Oh no, don't get me wrong, I can't fault ya for using GPS. I almost always have one running. But if I'm just running to the store real quick, there have been times I've forgotten it, rare, but i it does happen. I guess I was just saying my official odometer is my wired bike computer. I couldn't live without some GPS, especially when I turn in a really fast time on a ride I've attempted multiple times. The here's my record time, and here's all the (whats the word) mid-point times for later realtime under/over comps.
My old hiking GPSjust one day, stopped recognizing satellites. I really hate that too! Now I'm using an old iphone with a really old version of Gaia, the version that allows you to export to GPX without logging in to a website.
I have to have a GPS, but it is just not my odometer. Agree with you strongly on a lot of your points.
My old hiking GPSjust one day, stopped recognizing satellites. I really hate that too! Now I'm using an old iphone with a really old version of Gaia, the version that allows you to export to GPX without logging in to a website.
I have to have a GPS, but it is just not my odometer. Agree with you strongly on a lot of your points.
When you quote me, it's as if you wish to argue with me since you aren't obviously in agreement. I'm most certain that everyone has different experiences with the same things. So again, just tell the OP what you experienced and not me.
Oops! You are the OP. Sorry!
Last edited by Iride01; 09-24-23 at 09:40 AM.
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Wired vs Wireless Bike Computers
My wired unit doesn't have cadence, and I've looked for a wired unit with cadence sensor, and I get hits, but when I click on them, they are actually wireless. If you know of any wired units, send me a link if you have one handy.
Not especially. I try to keep some plastic onboard in case it starts raining. I put the plastic over the unit and use a twist tie to secure. Minor annoyance.
Yes, and is a requirement at 9999.9 miles.
At double digit hours, mine continues automatically from zero again, but blinking the time to let the rider know the unit is into round-two.
Have not had mine long enough, sort of anticipating this.
Oh! So, it's not just me. I'm pretty sure the unit I have, is described as auto on, but that has NOT been my experience. I know statistically, it is inevitable I will eventually look down, and notice X amount of distance has been ridden without measure. This is enough to make me want to steer clear of wireless. I'd like see if others are having this same experience.
Same here. And not a minor amount. I have a wired and wireless mounted, both set with the same wheel diameter. Wireless lost one mile in 9.36 miles, as measured by the wired device, and confirmed by GPS.
This does not appear to be true of my Blackburn Wireless, but I haven't tested this sufficient to really know. I will look for this. What leads you to think this?
Thanks for the great feedback!
Not especially. I try to keep some plastic onboard in case it starts raining. I put the plastic over the unit and use a twist tie to secure. Minor annoyance.
Yes, and is a requirement at 9999.9 miles.
Have not had mine long enough, sort of anticipating this.
Oh! So, it's not just me. I'm pretty sure the unit I have, is described as auto on, but that has NOT been my experience. I know statistically, it is inevitable I will eventually look down, and notice X amount of distance has been ridden without measure. This is enough to make me want to steer clear of wireless. I'd like see if others are having this same experience.
Same here. And not a minor amount. I have a wired and wireless mounted, both set with the same wheel diameter. Wireless lost one mile in 9.36 miles, as measured by the wired device, and confirmed by GPS.
Thanks for the great feedback!
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By reset the odometer, I meant when you change batteries, can you set it to the old number (if you remembered to write it down) instead of zero. My wired one, you can't, but I suspect some you can.
My wireless receiver would burn through batteries a lot faster if it was always on waiting for the wheel to turn. Mine, after you are stopped for 30 minutes, it shuts off the radio receiver. So, that is why they are not instant on. If I am riding solo, I remember to start it, but when I am riding with people, I am often distracted and forget to wake it up when I start out after lunch or something like that.
My wireless ones, when the wheel is turning, the sender (part on the fork) has a light that will turn on for about a second, every few seconds. And when that light comes on, that is when the data on the receiver screen changes. Thus, I assume that when the light is on, that is when it is sending info to the receiver. Because of that I think sometimes the number of wheel revolutions is not measured with sufficient accuracy which causes the error. In my case the error is usually over estimating distance, not under. If it was underestimating, then it is possible that the receiver on the handlebar did not receive the data sent by the sender on the fork occasionally.
My rando bike is the only computer where I really want to make sure I have very accurate distance, I use an old wired one there because it seems to be spot on.
My wireless receiver would burn through batteries a lot faster if it was always on waiting for the wheel to turn. Mine, after you are stopped for 30 minutes, it shuts off the radio receiver. So, that is why they are not instant on. If I am riding solo, I remember to start it, but when I am riding with people, I am often distracted and forget to wake it up when I start out after lunch or something like that.
My wireless ones, when the wheel is turning, the sender (part on the fork) has a light that will turn on for about a second, every few seconds. And when that light comes on, that is when the data on the receiver screen changes. Thus, I assume that when the light is on, that is when it is sending info to the receiver. Because of that I think sometimes the number of wheel revolutions is not measured with sufficient accuracy which causes the error. In my case the error is usually over estimating distance, not under. If it was underestimating, then it is possible that the receiver on the handlebar did not receive the data sent by the sender on the fork occasionally.
My rando bike is the only computer where I really want to make sure I have very accurate distance, I use an old wired one there because it seems to be spot on.
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My wireless receiver would burn through batteries a lot faster if it was always on waiting for the wheel to turn. Mine, after you are stopped for 30 minutes, it shuts off the radio receiver. So, that is why they are not instant on. If I am riding solo, I remember to start it, but when I am riding with people, I am often distracted and forget to wake it up when I start out after lunch or something like that.
My wireless ones, when the wheel is turning, the sender (part on the fork) has a light that will turn on for about a second, every few seconds. And when that light comes on, that is when the data on the receiver screen changes. Thus, I assume that when the light is on, that is when it is sending info to the receiver. Because of that I think sometimes the number of wheel revolutions is not measured with sufficient accuracy which causes the error. In my case the error is usually over estimating distance, not under. If it was underestimating, then it is possible that the receiver on the handlebar did not receive the data sent by the sender on the fork occasionally.
Didn't follow you here. Rando is a brand of bike?
Good discussion.
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I started with wired but never liked the wires, especially going to the rear and that was before I wanted (not needed) other sensors besides simply speed and distance. Went to wireless for a few months and then moved on to my smart phone with all the sensors, bells, and even whistles. It has GPS and Google maps tied into the app with simple swiping to change pages with the main page showing everything from tunes, to cadence, to you name it. Everything on that page but the map. Oh, and the speed is displayed in large top and center since that is still most important to me. With the sensor on the rear hub it all works on the trainer too.
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I started with wired but never liked the wires, especially going to the rear and that was before I wanted (not needed) other sensors besides simply speed and distance. Went to wireless for a few months and then moved on to my smart phone with all the sensors, bells, and even whistles. It has GPS and Google maps tied into the app with simple swiping to change pages with the main page showing everything from tunes, to cadence, to you name it. Everything on that page but the map. Oh, and the speed is displayed in large top and center since that is still most important to me. With the sensor on the rear hub it all works on the trainer too.
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I have 4 different units, will try to provide a link for each, even if discontinued and unavailable:
Bell Dashboard 150, Bell Dashboard 150 at Walmart*
Dreamsport DCY-16, Dream Sport Global website*
Blackburn Wireless, Blackburn Wireless at Walmart*
Ieohen Wired 27 function, Ieohen at Amazon*
Bell Dashboard 150, perfectly simple. Cheap, reliable, the standard by which all others are measured. Reached odometer limits multiple times before I saw any contact related issues. Wish I had ten of these. Reached out to Bell, and was just blankly told it is discontinued. Well, I already knew that, that's why I emailed you. What a loss!
The Dream Sport DCY-16 is new, and I haven't doubled the hours yet on it, but I'm really pleased with it so far. I have more of these on order. It is functionally, exactly like the Dashboard 150, except is also has a thermometer. Kinda nice to have I guess, but not sure the readouts are reliable, especially in direct sunlight.
The Blackburn Wireless has barely been used yet, years old now, requiring a new sensor battery. I am having accuracy issues with this unit. I'm almost ready to just call it junk, but I want to keep using it and try my best to get it working. Still hoping someone will chime in that they're using this unit.
Ieohen, is new also, has 20 miles on it, maybe. It is a good unit. BUT... it only shows down to a 1/10th of mile on Trip view and only whole miles on the Odometer. Showing thousandths of a mile is almost ridiculous the other way, but I'm spoiled now, and like that. I didn't go 6.1 miles, I went 6.132 miles!

* Links disallowed (Less than 10 posts), and for bonus points and welcoming of newbies, the forum software gave only an error message, and kindly and promptly, discarded my post completely. Maybe the back button would have recovered? Didn't check, I had a copy of the post in my copy/paste buffer, just for this type of nonsense.

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10th post, we good? 
Bell Dashboard 150,
https //www.walmart.com/ip/Bell-Sports-Dashboard-150-14-Function-Cyclocomputer-Speedometer-Odometer-Black/49706845
Dreamsport DCY-16,
https //dreamsportglobal.com/collections/bike-computer/products/bike-computer-multifunction-freeze-frame-cycling-speed-meter-sports-sensors-stopwatch-odometer-bicycle-computer-dream-sport
Blackburn Wireless, https //www.walmart.com/ip/Blackburn-Wireless-Cycle-Computer/860615788
Ieohen Wired 27 function, https //www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BBR24HVD
No. Jeez. Breaking links.

Bell Dashboard 150,
https //www.walmart.com/ip/Bell-Sports-Dashboard-150-14-Function-Cyclocomputer-Speedometer-Odometer-Black/49706845
Dreamsport DCY-16,
https //dreamsportglobal.com/collections/bike-computer/products/bike-computer-multifunction-freeze-frame-cycling-speed-meter-sports-sensors-stopwatch-odometer-bicycle-computer-dream-sport
Blackburn Wireless, https //www.walmart.com/ip/Blackburn-Wireless-Cycle-Computer/860615788
Ieohen Wired 27 function, https //www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BBR24HVD
No. Jeez. Breaking links.
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My Garmin and Hammerheads send completed ride data to Ride With GPS, which I use as an activity tracker and to plan routes. RWGPS is very good at giving me all my ride data including odometer and mileage to date.
Likes For Steve B.:
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My wireless ones are VDO. Over a decade old. Do not recall the model. Model is no longer in production, I wanted to buy another cadence sender, no longer available.
For touring or most other things I also have a GPS on the bike, thus the computers are a bit redundant. But often for an exercise ride, I leave the GPS at home, thus the computer is my only measuring device. GPS is not a cycling specific one, it is a general recreation one that I can use hiking, canoeing, kayaking, etc. Have two, a 62S (mostly used for non-cycling) and a 64 (mostly used for cycling).
And if you are curious, a heart rate monitor, Sigma ID.GO.
#18
Just Pedaling
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I have BLE sensors that I use for speed and cadence when on the trainer, usually using a combination of GPS with the sensors when out on the road so the Google maps features work with all the routes, turn by turn, calorie counting (don't really pay much attention to that one). The app lets you pick which sensors or GPS you want to use or it defaults to the blue tooth sensors for speed/cadence but still uses GPS for the mapping unless you tell it not to. If I want, I can upload all the data to Strava or analyze it on my phone/laptop, which I rarely do. HTH
#19
Turtoise Wins By a Hare
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For touring or most other things I also have a GPS on the bike, thus the computers are a bit redundant. But often for an exercise ride, I leave the GPS at home, thus the computer is my only measuring device. GPS is not a cycling specific one, it is a general recreation one that I can use hiking, canoeing, kayaking, etc. Have two, a 62S (mostly used for non-cycling) and a 64 (mostly used for cycling).
#20
Turtoise Wins By a Hare
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Reposting with active links.
Bell Dashboard 150, Bell Dashboard 150 at Walmart
Dream Sport DCY-16, Dream Sport Global website
Blackburn Wireless, Blackburn Wireless at Walmart
Ieohen Wired 27 function, Ieohen at Amazon
Bell Dashboard 150, perfectly simple. Cheap, reliable, the standard by which all others are measured. Reached odometer limits multiple times before I saw any contact related issues. Wish I had ten of these. Reached out to Bell, and was just blankly told it is discontinued. Well, I already knew that, that's why I emailed you. What a loss!
The Dream Sport DCY-16 is new, and I haven't doubled the hours yet on it, but I'm really pleased with it so far. I have more of these on order. It is functionally, exactly like the Dashboard 150, except is also has a thermometer. Kinda nice to have I guess, but not sure the readouts are reliable, especially in direct sunlight.
The Blackburn Wireless has barely been used yet, years old now, requiring a new sensor battery. I am having accuracy issues with this unit. I'm almost ready to just call it junk, but I want to keep using it and try my best to get it working. Still hoping someone will chime in that they're using this unit.
Ieohen, is new also, has 20 miles on it, maybe. It is a good unit. BUT... it only shows down to a 1/10th of mile on Trip view and only whole miles on the Odometer. Showing thousandths of a mile is almost ridiculous the other way, but I'm spoiled now, and like that. I didn't go 6.1 miles, I went 6.132 miles!
Bell Dashboard 150, Bell Dashboard 150 at Walmart
Dream Sport DCY-16, Dream Sport Global website
Blackburn Wireless, Blackburn Wireless at Walmart
Ieohen Wired 27 function, Ieohen at Amazon
Bell Dashboard 150, perfectly simple. Cheap, reliable, the standard by which all others are measured. Reached odometer limits multiple times before I saw any contact related issues. Wish I had ten of these. Reached out to Bell, and was just blankly told it is discontinued. Well, I already knew that, that's why I emailed you. What a loss!
The Dream Sport DCY-16 is new, and I haven't doubled the hours yet on it, but I'm really pleased with it so far. I have more of these on order. It is functionally, exactly like the Dashboard 150, except is also has a thermometer. Kinda nice to have I guess, but not sure the readouts are reliable, especially in direct sunlight.
The Blackburn Wireless has barely been used yet, years old now, requiring a new sensor battery. I am having accuracy issues with this unit. I'm almost ready to just call it junk, but I want to keep using it and try my best to get it working. Still hoping someone will chime in that they're using this unit.
Ieohen, is new also, has 20 miles on it, maybe. It is a good unit. BUT... it only shows down to a 1/10th of mile on Trip view and only whole miles on the Odometer. Showing thousandths of a mile is almost ridiculous the other way, but I'm spoiled now, and like that. I didn't go 6.1 miles, I went 6.132 miles!
#21
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I bought the 62S to replace my older black and white screen GPS units that I had bought two decades ago. Later I learned that I could charge batteries in the 64 family of GPS units with a USB cable using the Garmin NiMH battery pack (or a pair of AA NiMH batteries with a work around). And I use a GPS when touring, so the ability to charge the batteries in it while rolling down the road was why I bought the 64 when I already owned the 62S.
My 62S also has some problems, it suffered a lot of vibration on my handlebars on a very rough W Texas chip seal road, and now it occasionally shows a low battery warning, even when the batteries have plenty of charge. Also it is starting to let water into it. The photo shows the GPS when the screen was covered with moisture inside, so it was almost impossible to read on a backpacking trip.

Garmin no longer repairs the 62S. I had some problems with it shutting down on my backpacking trip a few weeks ago, not sure if I will use it much more. It is becoming unreliable, so I might just use it for local hikes. But, I am planning a trip next week, likely will use it then.
The 64 is the plain one, no internal compass or pressure sensor or ability to use a heart rate monitor strap or cadence sensor. It is working fine, but for backpacking I would prefer one with a pressure sensor. The 64 does not display the elevation profile screen like the ones with a pressure sensor do. But for everything else, the 64 has worked great. Photo below on one of my bike tours with it.

I mentioned in a previous post I have both a GPS and bike computer. And I also often have a separate heart rate monitor, you see all three lined up in the photo above.
Likes For Tourist in MSN:
#22
Turtoise Wins By a Hare
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How's the mount on that 64 look? How do you intend to eliminate the shakes that could cause the same fate as the 62? Thanks for sharing the pics! That's a nice setup.
#23
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My basic CatEye wired computer works fine. It's on a black bike and the black wire runs alongside the black Dynohub™️ wires.
My LED front lamp interacts (messes) with my wireless computer. Yeah, yeah, there's light placement and shielding and whatever. I gave up on regular wireless.
My Bluetooth wireless is fine.
My Xoss G GPS unit - no, wait...it doesn't do mapping, it just uses GPS signals to measure distance and speed. Anyway, I like it because I can use it interchangeably on my bikes with 16", 17", 26", 27.5", 700C and 27" wheels. No setup/calibration, no wires.
My Huret Multito never needs charging or a new battery.
I replace the drive belt every five years or so. Applying my empirically derived correction factor to the displayed reading, it's dead accurate.
My LED front lamp interacts (messes) with my wireless computer. Yeah, yeah, there's light placement and shielding and whatever. I gave up on regular wireless.
My Bluetooth wireless is fine.
My Xoss G GPS unit - no, wait...it doesn't do mapping, it just uses GPS signals to measure distance and speed. Anyway, I like it because I can use it interchangeably on my bikes with 16", 17", 26", 27.5", 700C and 27" wheels. No setup/calibration, no wires.
My Huret Multito never needs charging or a new battery.


Last edited by tcs; 09-29-23 at 10:08 AM.
#24
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I ALWAYS use a tether on my 64 or 62S in the mount, as sometimes user error happens and I do not get it mounted right, and suddenly I see it hanging from the tether instead of where I had put it. And the cheap asian copies of the Garmin mount do not fit that well, the GPS can slide out of the mount. I use an elastic band to keep them from sliding out now. This is an example of one of the cheap asian mounts.
https://www.amazon.com/BOROLA-Bicycl...dp/B07HRHFXWR/
#25
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ANT+ or Bluetooth, for sure.