beamshot comparisons
#26
Body By Nintendo
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,187
Likes: 0
From: Videogames ruined my life. Good thing i have 2 extra lives.
Bikes: Giant TCR2, Giant TCX, IRO BFSSFG SE, Salsa Casseroll, IRO Rob Roy.
Well holy chit... They really were using small car driving lamps. Hella Micro Xenon's were probably these:
https://www.rallylights.com/hella/Micro_DE.asp
(i've bought nearly all the auxiliary lamps for my car from www.rallylights.com)
I've thought about doing that with a set of smaller driving lamps i have laying around...
https://www.rallylights.com/hella/Micro_DE.asp
(i've bought nearly all the auxiliary lamps for my car from www.rallylights.com)
I've thought about doing that with a set of smaller driving lamps i have laying around...
#27
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
My overvolting experience was poor.
at 12 volts, my MR11 20 watt 12 volt bulb never died after maybe 1000hrs.
at 14.4 volts, it died in a week. Replacement bulbs lasted maybe 5-100 hrs. I used several brands, no real difference.
the light was awesome. But, contrary to other's assertions, the bulbs always burnt out in the middle of the ride, while being used.
ah well....
at 12 volts, my MR11 20 watt 12 volt bulb never died after maybe 1000hrs.
at 14.4 volts, it died in a week. Replacement bulbs lasted maybe 5-100 hrs. I used several brands, no real difference.
the light was awesome. But, contrary to other's assertions, the bulbs always burnt out in the middle of the ride, while being used.
ah well....
Then do what I do, run 2 bulbs with an A-B switch. If one burns out I can just flip it to the other. But I haven't had to yet because the bulb hasn't burned out on me. Redundancy is the key to having light. I have 2 MR16's wired up to a switch, a Cree xre headlight, and another 3 LED cheapie on the bar in case the rest fail.
I ride pitch black trails and can't afford to be without light.
Bang for the buck, the overvolted MR16 is the way to go...
#28
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 505
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville, TN
I think I might have figured out what happened with my attempt at overvolting the Krypton star. The culprit is the fact that standard flashlight bulbs have short lifetimes around 25 hours or so. Compare that to quality MR-16s, MR-11s etc., which have lifetimes of 3000-5000 hours. Now, a say 20% overvoltage of the latter gives an acceptable lifetime of say 300-500 hrs, but do the same with the flashlight bulb, and one gets a measly 2.5 hrs.
Of course, bulb quality varies from individual bulb to bulb. So I'm guessing this is why my slightly undervolted magnum star is still working after two years.
Now, the interesting question is WHY do the MR lamps last so much longer than the PR-based bulbs.
Of course, bulb quality varies from individual bulb to bulb. So I'm guessing this is why my slightly undervolted magnum star is still working after two years.
Now, the interesting question is WHY do the MR lamps last so much longer than the PR-based bulbs.
#29
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 334
Likes: 0
From: CA, USA
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Xootr Swift
#32
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 505
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville, TN
Note: the following is a CONJECTURE, and I cannot say that it is correct. It is an educated guess only.
Here's a conjecture as to why MR bulbs last so much longer than flashlight-style HPR halogens. The HPRs have just one glass shell covering the filament. If it leaks due to age or whatever reason, say thermal cycling, the bulb is toast. MR style bulbs, OTOH, have a second cover that I am guessing is airtight too. So it would take TWO leaks before oxygen would enter the chamber with the filament and kill the bulb. This conjecture is supported at least by a comparison of rough lifetimes. HPR - 50 hours. 50 squared (assuming equal seal quality) = 2500, and incidentially, MR bulbs often have lifetimes around that value.
If leaks are the main killer of halogen bulbs, then this conjecture would make sense.
Here's a conjecture as to why MR bulbs last so much longer than flashlight-style HPR halogens. The HPRs have just one glass shell covering the filament. If it leaks due to age or whatever reason, say thermal cycling, the bulb is toast. MR style bulbs, OTOH, have a second cover that I am guessing is airtight too. So it would take TWO leaks before oxygen would enter the chamber with the filament and kill the bulb. This conjecture is supported at least by a comparison of rough lifetimes. HPR - 50 hours. 50 squared (assuming equal seal quality) = 2500, and incidentially, MR bulbs often have lifetimes around that value.
If leaks are the main killer of halogen bulbs, then this conjecture would make sense.
#33
Note: the following is a CONJECTURE, and I cannot say that it is correct. It is an educated guess only.
Here's a conjecture as to why MR bulbs last so much longer than flashlight-style HPR halogens. The HPRs have just one glass shell covering the filament. If it leaks due to age or whatever reason, say thermal cycling, the bulb is toast. MR style bulbs, OTOH, have a second cover that I am guessing is airtight too. So it would take TWO leaks before oxygen would enter the chamber with the filament and kill the bulb. This conjecture is supported at least by a comparison of rough lifetimes. HPR - 50 hours. 50 squared (assuming equal seal quality) = 2500, and incidentially, MR bulbs often have lifetimes around that value.
If leaks are the main killer of halogen bulbs, then this conjecture would make sense.
Here's a conjecture as to why MR bulbs last so much longer than flashlight-style HPR halogens. The HPRs have just one glass shell covering the filament. If it leaks due to age or whatever reason, say thermal cycling, the bulb is toast. MR style bulbs, OTOH, have a second cover that I am guessing is airtight too. So it would take TWO leaks before oxygen would enter the chamber with the filament and kill the bulb. This conjecture is supported at least by a comparison of rough lifetimes. HPR - 50 hours. 50 squared (assuming equal seal quality) = 2500, and incidentially, MR bulbs often have lifetimes around that value.
If leaks are the main killer of halogen bulbs, then this conjecture would make sense.
actually that's real good reasoning. I wonder if true?
#34
I've read that Halogens are most stressed during turn on due to the inrush current. Anecdotal evidence here would seem to support that. I've also read about soft starts for MR16s/11s, has anyone tried that? I'm in the process of throwing together a DIY MR16 system and I think i'll incorporate a soft start.
#35
Mad bike riding scientist




Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 29,144
Likes: 6,202
From: Denver, CO
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
I've read that Halogens are most stressed during turn on due to the inrush current. Anecdotal evidence here would seem to support that. I've also read about soft starts for MR16s/11s, has anyone tried that? I'm in the process of throwing together a DIY MR16 system and I think i'll incorporate a soft start.
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Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!






