cyccommute 

That's simple?! Your description of it is even less so. Guys, I work in chemistry...specifically with these kinds of compounds:









These are the most abundant chemical compounds you can find on earth. They are the basic building blocks for every plant on the planet. They are the chemist equivalent of your schematics and are reasonably easy to understand...if you have the knowledge and training necessary to understand them. But, as simple as they may be to me or any other chemist, I would never say they are simple to anyone else.

I know that your electronics may seem simple to you but don't assume that they are simple to those of us untrained in the art. If you continue to insist that it's simple, I'll have to come back and explain the acid cleavage of the β-O-4 linkage between primary lignin subunits or the activation of the primary hydroxyl unit in cellulose to nucleophilic attack by isocyanate derivative in the carbanilation of cellulose for molecular weight determinations in gel permeation chromatography and why xylan units aren't carbanilated due to the inability of the isocycantes to promote nucleophilic attack on the secondary hydroxyl units

Don't make me go all chemistry on ya!

mrbubbles

Like I said, I understand that those who have no experience in electronic will not be able to figure that out, but that's self-designed dynamo circuit, it's an unfair comparison because nobody needs to build one as you can easily buy one for $4 from DX for battery powered LED lights.

Connection of Halogen
Halogen bulb - switch - battery

Connection of LED
LED - driver - switch - battery

It's just one extra step to do.

1000 lumens from 5 sources are not that much bigger than a halogen, if using Luxeon Rebels, the form factor can actually be smaller than a halogen. The LED n4zou pointed out in Post #13 is 900 lumens at a fraction of halogen's size.

The drivers here are very friendly, almost too friendly, I have no intention of pissing them off with 1600 lumens of light.

Most people will not venture out to build one of these, I gather most of those who have high-end dynamos are satisfied with the market offering of 200 lumen lights. Showing that site is a mistake by n4zou's part because it only scares people away from building LED lights (most people do not need dynamo as they are not doing all night rides), and most won't be using that anyways unless they have a dynamo (or thinking about getting one).

Talking about electronics to a laymen is like a doctor describing medical symptoms to a patient, you have to explain it as simply as possible.

I said it in the beginning of my post, the connection of an LED light is

LED - driver - switch - battery.

You can even forgo the regulated driver if you don't mind gradually losing light as soon as the battery is plugged in. If you have a Petzl headlamp, you'll know what I'm talking about. Then you will have this.

LED - switch - battery. I have driven two LEDs with 7.2V battery direct, no-dimming or power setting, it works.

Since you are satisfied with your setup, I see no reason in converting you. Just laying out some details for those who are scared by LEDs, because as more people invest in this technology, the faster it will grow, which is what I want. In short years to come, a 3W LED putting out 1000 lumens is certainly possible. Then cyccocommute might think about going LED.

znomit

Macro keep looking in hardware, auto and lighting stores, you should be able to find a MR16 or MR11 light head without too much trouble. I like MR11 for the smaller size, but the 16s are more efficient. For smooth flat trails 10-15w should be fine, tricky stuff or downhills 30w. For now choose a wattage that should give you about 1.5 times your expected runtime on whatever battery you've got.
Otherwise... I was able to get a bulb, socket and switch from the local lighting store. I went to a sports store and got a tennis ball and belt clip. Hardware store for some RTV silicone glue and wire.
This took about an hour to put together.

The holder has a belt clip, which is tied to the handlebar and stem with cable ties.

agarose2000

Ok , I'll admit that I am nearly complete clueless around electronics of any sort, and if any solder is required, I'm completely incapable of rising to the occasion despite how ludicrously simple the project may be. I don't even know what aisle of the store to go to get this stuff! I'm impressed by all you DIYers, and think you all do some crazy bang-up jobs with your powerful (and often nutty) lights.

I do, however, have the intelligence to buy:
1) FENIX flashlight (200 lumens) + rechargeable AA batteries
2) TwoFish lockblock velcro mounts

Steps:
Put batteries in charger. Put charged batteries in FENIX. Velcro to bike with lockblocks. Ride for 2 hrs, then change batts if necessary.

I've been loving this solution for the more technically challenged. =) But rock on you crazy halogen/LED DIYers! (That tennis ball solution is neat looking - did you at least spot for a new tennis ball, or you dug an old used one up?!)

znomit

Agarose I would argue your fenix solution (the arch rival of DIY lighters) while bright is the second least fun solution (the least fun is "ride during the daytime").
Also the flashlights use reflectors and tend to have beams with a very bright hotspot, ideal for a hand held flashlight but on a bike you want something wider, especially off road.

I splashed out on THREE balls, huge expense. I made a 20w and a 12w lighthead so I could choose as needed. You could use a connector strip so avoid that scary soldering iron.

Novakane 

Wow. I just got my MR16 up and running without overvolting and it got REALLY hot. I'm really not sure I'd stick one inside of something soft and fuzzy...

znomit

Had no problem with heat, the rubber and RTV withstand it well. Been retired from bike service, last used as as and outside light around the BBQ, 2hrs at 20w no problems. The ball is always ok to touch.
Remember the point of over volting a halogen is to get it hotter, in theory the rubber ball insulates the bulb so is more efficient than a metal housing.

Novakane 

To add some fuel to the LED / Halogen discussion - there is no comparison in terms of simplicity. A halogen DIY rig is simply a bulb, some wires and batteries. Most people will opt for an inline switch for usage simplicity.

With LEDs you're looking at the LED(s), some wires and batteries. And some form of current limitation - ranging from a simple resistor (this is what's in those blinky on/off lights in consumer electronics) to a fairly complex circuit involving at least a half dozen components when you get into what people are using here.

Sadly none of this is directly related to the OP - to that question, I'd say go with the DIY halogen if you want to get the most bang for your buck. Basic soldering, commonly available parts and a little creativity can get you up and running with a 14v halogen light in an evening.
Commercial LED systems are attractive for their size and simplicity but I've found that the light quality available from a similarly priced system (as the DIY) is inadequate in the woods. I tried.

mrbubbles

This is not a complex circuit, it's $4 shipped. 5-mode regulator from dealextreme. LED - this driver - switch - battery. It's just one extra step more compared to the halogen setup.

n4zou

Basic Electricity and Electronics is not really that complicated. When I joined the Navy I was a Machinist and Mechanic with no electrical background at all. When I got out of boot camp I was sent to San Diego where my first school was to be BE&E, Basic Electricity and Electronics. My immediate reaction was !!.
I went to the Chief and asked how in the world did I get put into electronics when I am a Machinist/Mechanic? He got me calmed down and told me that it was common for the Navy to take people and cross train them and I was lucky to have this opportunity. He was correct. My training was taken directly from The Navy Electricity and Electronics Training Series (NEETS). The material consists of self training modules. This allows a person the ability to get training in another field with faster promotions in rank and pay. These modules are available to anyone for free! Just download the first module and start training yourself in Basic Electricity and Electronics. They start assuming that you know nothing about electricity and electronics at all. You can stop at any point in the training you like. More modules you complete the more technical they become. Just a couple of modules would make anyone an expert in LED lighting. So where do you get this free Basic Electricity and Electronics training? Right here!
https://www.phy.davidson.edu/instrumentation/NEETS.htm

Pig_Chaser

I love this thread... who woulda thought that Halogen vs. LED would be so controversial!

znomit

Just stirring the pot...
LED are now at HID performance levels, people still say "halogen are brighter than LED" yet you never hear people say "halogen are brighter than HID".

cyccommute 

I will

znomit

Let me rephrase...
You never hear MORE THAN ONE PERSON say "Halogen are brighter than HID"


The current problem with LEDs is they are much less efficient at higher currents. So although people quote 100lm/w for a R2 cree in fact when you push 1A through it you are only getting 70. Plus an optc and an exit window ... not so flash anymore.

The SSC P7 and whatever cree are about to release, multi LEDs in one package, should see a 50% jump in real world lumens per watt(quoting 90lm/w at 900lm, might be 115lm/w at 500lm!). So we might see single LED lights with enough lumens for everyone (except for cyccommute of course) and very good run times. And just maybe we will see no more arguing, but I doubt it.

thehick

Macro: go diy with halogen. it'll work fine. parts are from home depot. and it's fun. altho leds are the way of the future, they are not yet packaged for the consumer. i have looked long and hard to find a simple plug in mr16 led. they are available, but expensive. i used 20watt last year on the trails in pitch black. i found them too bright as they created shadows that were dark. this year (very soon) i'll be using 10watts mr11. i too have a source of castoff laptop li-ion batteries. stick them in a old water bottle and get out there.

i can hardly wait for leds to become more available fully wired and in a reflector with lens. i would switch in a second if i could get one for 6 or 7 dollars.

cyccommute 

I'm not against LED...or HID, for that matter. However, I view the technology as too much in a state of flux to go sinking too much money into it right now. It's analogous to the full suspension phase of mountain biking. You can waste a lot of money being someone's test pilot or you can wait until things settle down a bit before investing your hard earned wealth. I'll wait, thanks I figure that commercial systems are about 5 years away from something that is good and won't radically change next year. DIY is probably 3 years away from the same.

One of the reasons I never made the shift to HID was cost. I refuse to spend hundreds of dollars for a light system when I can get nearly as good (MR11 bulbs overvolted) for tens of dollars. As a recent (this year) convert to MR16, I'm simply astounded by the light output of these bulbs when overvolted. For what I would have to spend for a single HID lamp system, I can get something that throws nearly 7 times the light. Since I believe in the 'more is better' approach to lighting, I'm hard pressed to go backwards. When LED's get to 1600 lm output from a single source, I'll consider them.

n4zou

Here is a plug-in and go LED MR-16 3-watt 12 VDC light but it is about twice what your willing to pay but they are available.
https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5794

mrbubbles

I like to bring this in for the LED-Halogen-HID debate.

6000 lumens.

ovrrdrive

I use an MR16 20W on the bar and a drop in CREE P2 on my head and the combo works pretty well. I would like to go all LED to get the efficiency, but I have to admit that with all of the offerings it's a very confusing realm to dive in to. It's not that I can't figure it out, it's just that there's so many choices that I just haven't felt like taking the time yet to figure it all out.

Btw, it's optics, led, heatsink, driver, switch, battery for those of you that are actually paying attention....

I did my head light using this drop in upgrade module and it is indeed as easy as using a halogen and I highly recommend this unit. It has a bit of a hot spot but there is plenty of useable spill to help out. I don't see this as a primary light, but as a headlight its hard to beat.





Cheap at DE too...

https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6090

macro

I just picked up 2 mr16 sockets from the local lighting store. On my way home I will stop by the electronics store and pickup the mr16 bulb. As for housing. I wish I can find some small fog light case for cheap. I guess I will go the pvc route. I will start off using my 12v led acid cell. But for sure in the end I will got NiMH

macro

I went to Home depot and another depot store near me and had no realy luck finding plumbing to fit the mr16 bulb. What I did find at the home depot was a rubber pipe with two clamps, one on each end. I put the bulb in on one side, and a plumbing plug in on the other. I wonder if that rubber pipe can wistand the heat from an overvolted halogen. Here are pics of my find. I did not purchase cause I already made a wasted 9.99$ purchase on a halogen fog light where the housing is sealed and I cannot fit a mr16 inside. Anyways, I am just wanting anyones input on this. It does kind of look cool, and very simplistic.


light_b1.jpg

light_b2.jpg

znomit

I say try it.
My tennis balls had no heat problems. You wont know until you try.
Tell people you carefully chose a rubber mount to protect the filament from shock and extend bulb life.

cyccommute 

The rubber will probably hold up, at least for a while. If it doesnt' or if you don't need water proof lamps, check the pin hole lamps in the track lighting section. They may even have some outdoor stuff.

Happy hunting.

macro

I was really busy lately, so I didn't have much time to continue building the light. I saw on sale the schwinn halogen head light and led tail light combo for sale, so I got it. I didnt care if the head light sucked cause I got it for the tail light. So, after testing it out a few times, I realized that this light does absolutely nothing. I can barely make out whats 2 feet in front of the tire, which gives me absolutely no time to react. I successfully hit 2 nice pot holes thanks to this amaizing light. At least it seems to ward off cars. Anyways, last night I finally finished drilling holes and installing the switch, soldering all wires on my mr16 light. I used a test .8amp led acid battery. OMG OMG OMG!!!! mr16 at 12V is so bright, im so curious to see it at 14.4. I lit up the whole side of my friends backyard all the way down to his neighbors shed. I cannot even imagine adding more. I will have to test in real nighttime forest conditions, but so far I cannot believe the amount of light this bulb outputs. (FYI I only used the schwinn halogen for evening runs in the city and parks, I just could not get any further then 5 feet into the woods with that thing)

pccp

I just came back 5 minutes ago from a nighttime forrest ride and I had this planet bike 3 led light and apart from the terrible mounting bracket which kept slipping down whenever I hit a bump I realized that one light is not enough. If I had two of these, one mounted on each side of my handlebar, that would be sufficient for seeing the trail. As it was, I had it on the right side and had trouble seeing what was on the left side unless I turned my bike to the left. So, personally, I recommend getting two of those, or maybe slightly brighter lights. But definitely if you are gonna go for the handlebar route and not the helmet light (which I might have to try) get two lights, one for each side... my 2 cents
:edit: upon further thought, I think a brighter light would be advisable.