Total Geekiness
#976
GN BIKN
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 255
Bikes: 1990ish MTB converted to 'cross, custom Vulture 29"er, Swift 2-speed Automatix folder, Madsen cargo bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Longtime rider, but new to these forums, and what a great thread! I've learned a lot already Could you guys critique my planned build?
I'm currently running a TurboCat S25headlight (10W+15W MR11s at 6V) plus the usual assortment of blinkies, LED headlamps, etc., but would like to upgrade to a homebrew system. Having entirely rewired my previous home, I'm quite comfortable working with electrical stuff, though I still definitely want to keep the system as simple as possible while still getting the functionality I'm looking for. After reading the Starlight 78 page, I'm thinking of putting together a 12V system with the following components:
- 20W MR16 high beam (which would be on most of the time), using the Optronics holders. In a living room test, an el-cheapo GE 20W MR16 (that doesn't seem that well made) noticeably outshines my current 25W system, and I expect the Philips energy saver 20W to be substantially brighter.
- Two Night-Sun Xenon strobes, amber front and red rear. 12V version, since they go through batteries pretty fast.
- Luxeon III low beam. Still working on how to make this work, but I have a Princeton Apex headlamp using the same emitter and I'm impressed with the output for situations where I don't need a ton of light.
- NiMH Battery pack in the 4000-4500 mAh range. Although it would be tempting to over-volt to bump up the output of the high beam, I'm thinking of sticking with 12V because a lot of the12V-ready LED products I've seen look like they wouldn't be able to handle the extra voltage.
Looks like with everything on, this system should draw just a hair over 2 amps from the battery, for a theoretical burn time of nearly 2 hours, though I realize actual burn time may be a bit less. My evening commute is only an hour, but I've heard NiMH batteries don't like being drained much harder than that, and if I push them harder I might not end up running my lights optimally. So it seems like a good idea to have a little "extra" battery capacity.
Also, here's an interesting question. After reading about people hooking up horns, cellphone chargers and other 12V car-like accessories to their light batteries, I got to thinking about cars' electrical systems, which hook the negative terminal of the battery to the frame, requiring only 1 wire to be run to each (grounded) component.
So why not do the same thing on a bike? It would be really elegant to run a single wire to each component, with each item's other pole firmly grounded to the bike frame. Anyone tried this? Since my front lights would be attached to the handlebar, I'd be running about 2A of current through my expensive King headset. Would that damage it? Or would I be risking accelerated corrosion by running current through my (steel) frame?
Thoughts?
- Dan
I'm currently running a TurboCat S25headlight (10W+15W MR11s at 6V) plus the usual assortment of blinkies, LED headlamps, etc., but would like to upgrade to a homebrew system. Having entirely rewired my previous home, I'm quite comfortable working with electrical stuff, though I still definitely want to keep the system as simple as possible while still getting the functionality I'm looking for. After reading the Starlight 78 page, I'm thinking of putting together a 12V system with the following components:
- 20W MR16 high beam (which would be on most of the time), using the Optronics holders. In a living room test, an el-cheapo GE 20W MR16 (that doesn't seem that well made) noticeably outshines my current 25W system, and I expect the Philips energy saver 20W to be substantially brighter.
- Two Night-Sun Xenon strobes, amber front and red rear. 12V version, since they go through batteries pretty fast.
- Luxeon III low beam. Still working on how to make this work, but I have a Princeton Apex headlamp using the same emitter and I'm impressed with the output for situations where I don't need a ton of light.
- NiMH Battery pack in the 4000-4500 mAh range. Although it would be tempting to over-volt to bump up the output of the high beam, I'm thinking of sticking with 12V because a lot of the12V-ready LED products I've seen look like they wouldn't be able to handle the extra voltage.
Looks like with everything on, this system should draw just a hair over 2 amps from the battery, for a theoretical burn time of nearly 2 hours, though I realize actual burn time may be a bit less. My evening commute is only an hour, but I've heard NiMH batteries don't like being drained much harder than that, and if I push them harder I might not end up running my lights optimally. So it seems like a good idea to have a little "extra" battery capacity.
Also, here's an interesting question. After reading about people hooking up horns, cellphone chargers and other 12V car-like accessories to their light batteries, I got to thinking about cars' electrical systems, which hook the negative terminal of the battery to the frame, requiring only 1 wire to be run to each (grounded) component.
So why not do the same thing on a bike? It would be really elegant to run a single wire to each component, with each item's other pole firmly grounded to the bike frame. Anyone tried this? Since my front lights would be attached to the handlebar, I'd be running about 2A of current through my expensive King headset. Would that damage it? Or would I be risking accelerated corrosion by running current through my (steel) frame?
Thoughts?
- Dan
Last edited by GlowBoy; 12-04-05 at 01:39 AM.
#977
I am not a car
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Decatur, GA
Posts: 747
Bikes: Giant Revel 1, Surly Ogre
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I have been using my frame as ground for over 6 months and it seems to work fine. I really like the simplicity of just running the positive lead where you need it. After having a over-complicated setup last year, I have moved to the other end and tried to make mine as simple as possible. My power switch is located on my underseat bag which holds my battery, so I only have one wire running to my front light and one to my rear light setup. So far, it has not let me down. I have an aluminum frame, steel fork, aluminum seatpost and rear rack, and the ground seems to work fine through all of these components.
__________________
"Bad facts make bad laws." FZ
"Bad facts make bad laws." FZ
#978
Bring That Beat Back
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: I lost my legs
Posts: 937
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Alright, I'm pretty new to this stuff, but am looking for a cheap way to get started. I already have built my lighting system which basically includes a couple of 20w halogen bulbs. Would this battery be good enough to power my lights for a 2 hour/day commute?
https://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2142
https://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2142
#979
Sumanitu taka owaci
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 8,945
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by wmgardner
Alright, I'm pretty new to this stuff, but am looking for a cheap way to get started. I already have built my lighting system which basically includes a couple of 20w halogen bulbs. Would this battery be good enough to power my lights for a 2 hour/day commute?
https://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2142
https://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2142
The formula is basically this:
Watts = Volts X Amps or Amps = Watts / Volts
So for every hour ("Amp/hr") of battery power you need, divide the total watts you are using (40 watts) by the voltage (12.)
40 / 12 = 3.33 or 3.3 Amp/hr. So you would need at least a 3.3 AH battery for each hour of run-time you want.
BUT--
There is a problem. The smaller the battery, the less it can carry higher wattages. For example, a battery that supports 20W for an hour might not support 40W for half an hour; it might run for 20 - 25 minutes. So you have to use "overkill" when selecting an SLA battery for your needs.
40W / 12V = 3.3 AH
2 hours X 3.3 AH = 6.6 AH
"Overkill factor" -- minimum of 7 AH (or even more.)
Remember that SLA batteries, while cheap and reliable, don't like to be completely drained. It shortens their life. ALSO--always buy a fuse for safety reasons, even a 12V battery can start a fire. You can get details from your local battery store.
William, if you don't like the idea of such a large battery, and you must have 2 consecutive hours of run-time, you can put separate switches on each of your 20W lights. That way, you can use 20W most of the time, and use the second 20W as a "high-beam" for special needs. Even with a larger battery, two switches will allow you to conserve power as you need to.
__________________
No worries
No worries
Last edited by LittleBigMan; 12-05-05 at 09:41 AM.
#980
Full Member
Littlebigman, thanks for that formula... i needed it. i'm right on track.
20w with 5ah battery will give me my 2hr run time with no problems. heck, i might even add another 10w light just because i can. then i can switch between them like you suggested.
thanks again.
20w with 5ah battery will give me my 2hr run time with no problems. heck, i might even add another 10w light just because i can. then i can switch between them like you suggested.
thanks again.
__________________
Bikes: C'dale, Trek, Cervelo and Santana
Bikes: C'dale, Trek, Cervelo and Santana
#981
Bring That Beat Back
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: I lost my legs
Posts: 937
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by LittleBigMan
Remember that SLA batteries, while cheap and reliable, don't like to be completely drained. It shortens their life. ALSO--always buy a fuse for safety reasons, even a 12V battery can start a fire. You can get details from your local battery store.
Can this type (SLA) of battery be 'overcharged'? The last thing I want to have to worry about while I'm charging at work is whether or not I left it on the charger too long.
Thanks for all your help.
Last edited by Old Dirt Hill; 12-05-05 at 10:14 AM.
#982
Bring That Beat Back
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: I lost my legs
Posts: 937
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Ok, so it looks as though SLA batteries can be overcharged. This can easily be solved by using a common timer...but how do you know how charged the battery really is? How can I tell how long to even set the timer for?
#983
Bring That Beat Back
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: I lost my legs
Posts: 937
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
Yeah, I was thinking about throwing in an old section of inner tube inside the shrink-wrap so that there's some padding between the battery and frame. Maybe some foam might work too. Or I might just strap a bottle-cage under my downtube in that location so that I can remove the battery easily... we'll see...
I think the battery's wired correctly. The left-most cell on 2nd row connects its +positive end to the -negative of the cell above. Then its -negative end goes to the +positive terminal of the cell to its right. All the cells are in series with the only free terminals being at the end of the series..
I think the battery's wired correctly. The left-most cell on 2nd row connects its +positive end to the -negative of the cell above. Then its -negative end goes to the +positive terminal of the cell to its right. All the cells are in series with the only free terminals being at the end of the series..
#984
SS Commuter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 69
Bikes: Trek 6700 converted to SS;Specialized Stumpjumper FSR
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
First off, thanks to some of the folks in this thread for so much great info and advice. This is one of the things that makes the Internet great.
I accidently bought a MR16 20w without the front glass. Can I run that on my bike in wet weather? Do you have any suggestions on a cover. I am using the Optronics driving lights housings.
Thanks
Kevin
Oh, and what can I do with the 55w bulbs that came with those lights?
I accidently bought a MR16 20w without the front glass. Can I run that on my bike in wet weather? Do you have any suggestions on a cover. I am using the Optronics driving lights housings.
Thanks
Kevin
Oh, and what can I do with the 55w bulbs that came with those lights?
#985
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 253
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Wheels4
Littlebigman, thanks for that formula... i needed it. i'm right on track.
20w with 5ah battery will give me my 2hr run time with no problems. heck, i might even add another 10w light just because i can. then i can switch between them like you suggested.
thanks again.
20w with 5ah battery will give me my 2hr run time with no problems. heck, i might even add another 10w light just because i can. then i can switch between them like you suggested.
thanks again.
#986
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 253
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SpecialKev
I accidently bought a MR16 20w without the front glass. Can I run that on my bike in wet weather? Do you have any suggestions on a cover. I am using the Optronics driving lights housings.
#987
Full Member
jz, my commute is one way... 22.5miles. it takes me between 1hr30min's and 1hr50min's. if i move up to a 7AH battery, i could go with more watts in the bulbs... but, for now i'll stick with the 20 and maybe add a 10watt in the mix.
thanks for the suggestion though.
by the way.... does anyone know what an H3 bulb is as far as wattage?? i've got some little driving lights that i was going to put on my mini-dune buggy but i'm not putting them on there.
thanks.
thanks for the suggestion though.
by the way.... does anyone know what an H3 bulb is as far as wattage?? i've got some little driving lights that i was going to put on my mini-dune buggy but i'm not putting them on there.
thanks.
__________________
Bikes: C'dale, Trek, Cervelo and Santana
Bikes: C'dale, Trek, Cervelo and Santana
#988
52-week commuter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 1,929
Bikes: Redline Conquest, Cannonday, Specialized, RANS
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by Wheels4
by the way.... does anyone know what an H3 bulb is as far as wattage?? i've got some little driving lights that i was going to put on my mini-dune buggy but i'm not putting them on there.
#989
Senior Member
Originally Posted by wmgardner
How do you recharge this system? How often do you recharge it?
#991
Full Member
Originally Posted by LittleBigMan
The formula is basically this:
Watts = Volts X Amps or Amps = Watts / Volts
So for every hour ("Amp/hr") of battery power you need, divide the total watts you are using (40 watts) by the voltage (12.)
40 / 12 = 3.33 or 3.3 Amp/hr. So you would need at least a 3.3 AH battery for each hour of run-time you want.
BUT--
There is a problem. The smaller the battery, the less it can carry higher wattages. For example, a battery that supports 20W for an hour might not support 40W for half an hour; it might run for 20 - 25 minutes. So you have to use "overkill" when selecting an SLA battery for your needs.
40W / 12V = 3.3 AH
2 hours X 3.3 AH = 6.6 AH
"Overkill factor" -- minimum of 7 AH (or even more.)
Remember that SLA batteries, while cheap and reliable, don't like to be completely drained. It shortens their life. ALSO--always buy a fuse for safety reasons, even a 12V battery can start a fire. You can get details from your local battery store.
Watts = Volts X Amps or Amps = Watts / Volts
So for every hour ("Amp/hr") of battery power you need, divide the total watts you are using (40 watts) by the voltage (12.)
40 / 12 = 3.33 or 3.3 Amp/hr. So you would need at least a 3.3 AH battery for each hour of run-time you want.
BUT--
There is a problem. The smaller the battery, the less it can carry higher wattages. For example, a battery that supports 20W for an hour might not support 40W for half an hour; it might run for 20 - 25 minutes. So you have to use "overkill" when selecting an SLA battery for your needs.
40W / 12V = 3.3 AH
2 hours X 3.3 AH = 6.6 AH
"Overkill factor" -- minimum of 7 AH (or even more.)
Remember that SLA batteries, while cheap and reliable, don't like to be completely drained. It shortens their life. ALSO--always buy a fuse for safety reasons, even a 12V battery can start a fire. You can get details from your local battery store.
__________________
Bikes: C'dale, Trek, Cervelo and Santana
Bikes: C'dale, Trek, Cervelo and Santana
#992
Full Member
after posting, i decided to go downstairs and take a pic.....(it's obvious i'm procrastinating with my studies)
the first pic is what i started with... the second two pics are what i have now. funny thing is, i haven't even ridden with the lights yet. i'm looking forward to it though.
the first pic is what i started with... the second two pics are what i have now. funny thing is, i haven't even ridden with the lights yet. i'm looking forward to it though.
__________________
Bikes: C'dale, Trek, Cervelo and Santana
Bikes: C'dale, Trek, Cervelo and Santana
#993
Sumanitu taka owaci
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 8,945
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by wmgardner
Ok, so it looks as though SLA batteries can be overcharged. This can easily be solved by using a common timer...but how do you know how charged the battery really is? How can I tell how long to even set the timer for?
I forgot to mention another option to cut back on the size of your battery (or increase your run-time, if desired.) There are "energy saver" bulbs available (I use one) that allow you to get more light per watt, much like those bulbs you see for your home that draw 14 watts but put out the equivalent of 60 watts of light. Mine supposedly draws 20W but puts out ~ 35W.
In addition, the focus of the beam can make a lower wattage light seem brighter. You sacrifice some peripheral visibility, but as long as you can see what's in front of you, that's what's important. On the other hand, too wide a beam sacrifices precious visibility where you need it most.
I just about drain my battery on the way to work (one hour,) then I spend the next 7 hours recharging. I will probably go with a 5 AH eventually (like I used to have) because I like having "spare" battery power in case I need it unexpectedly.
__________________
No worries
No worries
Last edited by LittleBigMan; 12-07-05 at 09:21 AM.
#994
Señior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 13,749
Bikes: Windsor Fens, Giant Seek 0 (2014, Alfine 8 + discs)
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 446 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
7 Posts
Originally Posted by LittleBigMan
There are "energy saver" bulbs available (I use one) that allow you to get more light per watt, much like those bulbs you see for your home that draw 14 watts but put out the equivalent of 60 watts of light. Mine supposedly draws 20W but puts out ~ 35W.
MR16 bulbs seem pretty durable. I have a ride that goes over 4 miles of bumpy gravel twice a day, and I used the same bulb for a year (still have it, but my primary is now an HID). So the "shorter life" may still last a year, and if you get significantly more light, it's worth it.
#995
Sumanitu taka owaci
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 8,945
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by ItsJustMe
Some of those energy savers are just overvoltaged. If you run overvoltage, the filament is hotter, and you get more light per watt burned. Tradeoff is shorter bulb life. Energy saver 12v bulbs are probably just made as 10v bulbs.
MR16 bulbs seem pretty durable. I have a ride that goes over 4 miles of bumpy gravel twice a day, and I used the same bulb for a year (still have it, but my primary is now an HID). So the "shorter life" may still last a year, and if you get significantly more light, it's worth it.
MR16 bulbs seem pretty durable. I have a ride that goes over 4 miles of bumpy gravel twice a day, and I used the same bulb for a year (still have it, but my primary is now an HID). So the "shorter life" may still last a year, and if you get significantly more light, it's worth it.
https://www.bulbs.com/products/produc...ucts&class=840
__________________
No worries
No worries
#996
GN BIKN
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 255
Bikes: 1990ish MTB converted to 'cross, custom Vulture 29"er, Swift 2-speed Automatix folder, Madsen cargo bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ItsJustMe
Some of those energy savers are just overvoltaged.
#997
Bring That Beat Back
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: I lost my legs
Posts: 937
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
I've got a 10w MR-11 light right now. Don't have a regular commute or anything, so I've been using for afternoon rides where I get caught up after sunset. Probably about 1-1.5 hours a day. I have put a female DC socket at the end of a 12" lead on the battery and a matching plug on the light. I put the same plug on my 12v smart/trickle motorcycle-battery charger. So I just unplug the light from the battery and plug in the motorcycle-charter. This way I can also use the AC/DC brick 12v transformers that's common as well. Recharge about once a week overnight, about 8-hours on the smart-charger.
They're cheap and I think they'll provide plenty of power for my commute if I charge every day at work. A question I have is why you built your power brick to supply 13.2V instead of a flat 12V. Is there something I'm missing here? Should I buy 11 of these batteries so that I can get 13.2V or can I get by with 10? Also, what smart charger do you recommend for this type of setup (assuming I go with the C batteries instead of your D's).
Thanks everyone for all of the great information. I'm learning a ton (and having a great time).
#998
GN BIKN
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 255
Bikes: 1990ish MTB converted to 'cross, custom Vulture 29"er, Swift 2-speed Automatix folder, Madsen cargo bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Another question for the regulars here:
Any reason (other than price) not to go with Li-ion over NiMH? BatterySpace has a sweet deal on a prebuilt 11.1V 7200mAh water bottle battery, 100 bucks including the charger:
https://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2217
It's a little more capacity than I "need", but it's only 20 bucks more than I'd spend on the NiMH battery I "need" plus charger. Plus it has lots more capacity, weighs less, and is less work than making a water bottle battery out of cells or packs myself. Any "gotchas" I should be aware of with Li-ion? Should I add an extra inline fuse between this thing and my lights just to be on the safe side?
Any reason (other than price) not to go with Li-ion over NiMH? BatterySpace has a sweet deal on a prebuilt 11.1V 7200mAh water bottle battery, 100 bucks including the charger:
https://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2217
It's a little more capacity than I "need", but it's only 20 bucks more than I'd spend on the NiMH battery I "need" plus charger. Plus it has lots more capacity, weighs less, and is less work than making a water bottle battery out of cells or packs myself. Any "gotchas" I should be aware of with Li-ion? Should I add an extra inline fuse between this thing and my lights just to be on the safe side?
#999
Senior Member
If you're driving a 12v halogen at 11.1v, you'll be losing A LOT of light, much more than -9%, probably closer to -15%. Better to run another cell to get 14.8v and use an efficient, nearly-lossless regulator to keep it around 13v. Then you'll get brighter light and longer capacity due to the extra cell and the regulator will provide a longer run-time of a fixed brightness. Rather than super-bright at first that fades faster into a dim 2nd half of the charge.
I got 13.2v so that I can overdrive the halogen light by about 10% and get 20% more light out of it. The charger I use is a Battery Tender that detects full-charge through a voltage-plateau I believe. So it stops at 12v or 13.2v or 13.8v for SLA batteries, varies depending upon what's hooked up. Another source for smart-chargers are the Black & Decker chargers for cordless-drill batteries. Some of the smart-chargers even have an adjustable trigger-point for when they switch from charge to trickle mode.
Originally Posted by wmgardner
I like your setup here and think I'm going to try to build something comparible for my power source. I think I'm going to go with a 5ah setup, so I'll probably buy these: https://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=1158
They're cheap and I think they'll provide plenty of power for my commute if I charge every day at work. A question I have is why you built your power brick to supply 13.2V instead of a flat 12V. Is there something I'm missing here? Should I buy 11 of these batteries so that I can get 13.2V or can I get by with 10? Also, what smart charger do you recommend for this type of setup (assuming I go with the C batteries instead of your D's).
Thanks everyone for all of the great information. I'm learning a ton (and having a great time).
They're cheap and I think they'll provide plenty of power for my commute if I charge every day at work. A question I have is why you built your power brick to supply 13.2V instead of a flat 12V. Is there something I'm missing here? Should I buy 11 of these batteries so that I can get 13.2V or can I get by with 10? Also, what smart charger do you recommend for this type of setup (assuming I go with the C batteries instead of your D's).
Thanks everyone for all of the great information. I'm learning a ton (and having a great time).
Last edited by DannoXYZ; 12-09-05 at 04:57 AM.
#1000
Bring That Beat Back
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: I lost my legs
Posts: 937
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
The charger I use is a Battery Tender that detects full-charge through a voltage-plateau I believe. So it stops at 12v or 13.2v or 13.8v for SLA batteries, varies depending upon what's hooked up. Another source for smart-chargers are the Black & Decker chargers for cordless-drill batteries. Some of the smart-chargers even have an adjustable trigger-point for when they switch from charge to trickle mode.
https://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2051
Sorry for the dumb questions, but I'm pretty new to this stuff. I'll make sure to get some pictures up once this is completed as is looks pretty cool on my bike so far.