Yes, it does.

depends on how good your eyesight is and which P7 or MC-E light you get, but in general 30~35km/h is not enough to over drive the light.

I wasn't aware that there are different models of the P7 flashlight ... Just how many are there? And which one gives the strongest beam of light?

well, there's width (flood) and depth (throw) to the beam of light.

throw helps with being able to see far
flood helps with peripheral vision


Although not always true, my general consensus for these lights which don't use lens optics
the reflector size (secondary lens) has a lot to do with how the light is emitted.
bigger and deeper reflectors offer more throw.
smaller and shallower reflectors have more spill.

A lot of the P7 and MC-E lights you see mentioned here have a 30mm wide x 20mm deep reflector and that gives something inbetween.

this one, gives amazing throw: https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.18475

Generally P7 torches aren't really throwers, I reckon it's to do with the size of the LED.

Buy this if you want a thrower:



Super Thrower Far Projection Torch

Still using the same light + mount I bought back in September. Gets the job done.

You can ride easily at 15 MPH with confidence. To save battery power, I run in strobe mode and have no problems.

BTW - I run the strobe day or night. Just like cars, bikes should run with lights on 24/7 IMHO.

isn't the strobe too fast? I find the strobe on my fenix torch to be far to fast to be safe - i.e. could distract people.

In heavy traffic that's just want you want to do; distract them so they actually notice you. FWIW, the only reactions I've gotten from drivers while using a Fenix or other powerful LED strobe is a thumbs up.

P7 just refers to the LED emitter (sort of the equivalent of the light bulb). You can put it in many different kinds of lights- DX alone has at least 4 or 5 and probably a lot more. The quality and utility of the light will vary a lot with the reflector, lens, etc. There are lots of threads comparing the lights on here. FWIW, the DX 5 mode is supposed to be better than the DX 8 mode. Another kind of LED is called the Cree. Some think it's better than the P7, but hey are pretty close.

I agree that the strobe is very eye catching. How much battery power does it use? I always worry that it will run the light down almost as fast as leaving it on high.

If I recall, the ratings for most lights on strobe use far less power than lights on either low or high beam.

I have my light pointed down and not set for eye level. I have heard no complaints at all.

And the fast strobe does allow me to see very well. Although the strobe may bother many riders, I do fine with it.

Just got my P7 today, https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.19189 , and all I can say is WOW. I'm very happy with the one I picked. Has a good wide hot-spot that throws further out than I could ever reasonably need while not being so narrow as to be tunnel-vision inspiring and has a good halo of light outside the center as well. Can easily see anything in my path even if it doesn't fall directly in the center. I had been perfectly happy cruising along at 20-25 with my little 3 watt led torch so long as there wasn't a lot of oncoming traffic drowning out my light and this thing might as well be daylight in comparison. It puts out a luxurious amount of light on high. My only complaint is that I wish the strobe mode was slower. This is seizure inducing fast. Definitely an attention-getter and I may use it during twilight hours when solid lights get lost but at night it blinks too fast to be useful if it's aimed up the road. Honestly I don't think I'll be using high mode all that much on road unless I'm absolutely flying downhill, low mode provides atleast 60% as much visibility at distance and is just as good for stuff in the near field.

Construction feels excellent. It has a good heft to it. All the threads are clean and tightly mesh without grinding. O-rings in all the right places though I should probably grease them. The thermal paste under the emitter isn't centered well and blobs out on one side but looks to be close enough to not substantially matter. Lens feels chintzy, won't be suprised if it breaks or scratches easily. Heat-sink arrangement looks good, don't think I could improve upon it much without adding extra material or complexity and seems to work well. It gets warm rather quickly but levels off just as quickly and after being on for 15 minutes was still very comfortable to hold.

Yup.....they do work well, don't they?

Run the thing on strobe during the day. Car lights now turn on as soon as you turn the key so everybody sees the car. Why don't we do so with our bike lights?

Anyway, it does tell cars that bikes are out and about, so watch for us.

I received my SSC P7 the other day and tested it on the bike tonight for the first time. I ordered a twofish lockblock and still haven't received it, so in the meanwhile I attached the light with a heavy duty elastic and an old inner tube.

Every bump on the road made the flashlight switch mode! It's so annoying... I hope the lockblock solves this problem.

First off, there have been many comments about P7 flashlights and multi modes in this forum. The fewer that still meet your need is the best purchase, IMHO. I bought the three mode, low, high and strobe as I like to use the strobe as I ride in the daylight.

As a possible solution for the mode changing: Try pulling the spring that holds the battery securely in the tube out a bit. It may then provide more tension so the battery does not disconnect.

The lockblock probably won't help at all--my P7 changed modes in one. My solution was to go to a crafts store (Michaels, Joannes, etc) and pick up a pack of small button magnets. Stick one on the end of your battery--problem solved.

Thanks RepWI and dclaryjr, I followed your instructions to secure the battery and also wrapped a piece of thick paper around it. I will test it tomorrow evening.

Finally got my dealextreme mte P7 today. The batteries were charged in anticipation a week ago. It's really bright and I love all the modes.

I had this same problem with my MTE SSC P7 light. It turns out it's a problem with the batter momentarily breaking contact. I solved it by shimming the battery with a business card--wrapped a business card around the outside of the batter before putting it in the light. My light hasn't switched modes from a bump since.

I am just returning to the forum in an active fashion after a wonderful ski season. I have been commuting throughout the winter just my internet concerns were those of skiing.
I offer this as an apology if my following concern has been addressed in the 15 or so pages of this thread that I have missed.

I have two P7 (5 modes) that I use for commuting: one helmet mounted and one on the handlebar. I use them both on high and have fabulous lighting for my dark rides (often both in the morning and the evening-long days)......My helmet mounted one is having a small problem. If I screw the back all the way down the light won't work. If I loosen it a millimeter or two then the light works. I know, I know, just loosen it but I worry when it is wet out. Am wondering what might be wrong and how to fix it.......In my very limited understanding of electronics usually the connection is affected when things loosen rather than when the connection is too tight?

Thanks,

hey guys I just came across this light, and it lasts for 15hrs at 1800lux(lumens?) which is a lot longer/brighter than the P7, what are your thoughts?

https://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=4812

lux != lumens. It is probably a lot less bright than the P7, based on runtime.

why does it advertise 1800 then? lol i know the P7 advertises what 700? and only gets about 400? but still 1800 and getting less than 400? is that even ethical?

it says 1800 lux, which isn't 1800 lumens. One lux is equal to one lumen per square metre.