daniel58

In the case of the failed HID connectors that is an excellent way of not only replacing the failed HID connectors but,

at the same time upgrading the connectors to a more generic equivalent making it now compatible with just about anything.

Good news now, almost anyone "with some basic common sense" can solder and heat shrink two positive and negative wires to a battery terminal using the proper polarity orientated connectorized connections.

See below supplied link $1.50 for a two conductor 18gauge waterproof connector typically used in trailer configuration.

https://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...8-AWG/-/1.html

Even better connect two of these connectors onto the battery pack end in a piggyback pigtail arrangement(then one can connect two MS Led Lightsets) to enable one to connect two MS Led Lightset at the same time; in order to share one external rechargeable Lithium Ion 8.8aH battery pack that would allow three hours of run time off one single battery pack,

on the MS Led Lightset end installing a primary and spare two conductor waterproof connector(as a backup to the primary connector-in case there is some kind of unforseen problem(in the dark) with the primary connector, an optional spare connector would always be available for backup use; in the field) as well.

If the current existing trail tec connectors(on the battery pack/MS Led Lightset ends) are undamaged, one could even splice in the 2-two conductor waterproof trailer connectors so as to have the ultimate choice between either/or connector(will work even on unmodified newly purchased external rechargeable battery packs with two conductor DC power trail tec female jack-4.4ah).

Its not "rocket science" folks, although its always "prudent" to check and recheck ones polarity just to make sure always of course;

Now remember when wiring up the external battery pack up to the DC power Jack, that the MS lamp center pin has to have the red, positive voltage or hot side wired to it;

so one might want to check with a multi-meter to verify polarity for postive polarity to the center pin of DC power Jack or else one might burn up ones brand new MS lamp.

Couple things to check for that one should alway check for oneself, I just checked, confirmed and verified the polarity setting coming off the lithium ion battery charger male plug end,

before typing this and the voltage is confirmed as positive polarity on the male center pin portion(the red color of multimeter test lead) being supplied to the corresponding lithium ion battery pack jack end(female end) coming off the li-ion battery pack;

with the all purpose uberhandy DC voltage multimeter reading +8.60VDC(negative test lead on the outer barrel of the lithium ion battery charger male plug end).

and just to make sure I connected the negative(black color) multimeter test lead to the center pin of charger male plug end(positive test lead on the outside barrel portion of corresponding male plug surface);

on the lithium ion battery charger male plug end and the polarity reversed to read -8.60VDC as expected, no nasty unexpected surprise here.

I learned this lesson with a flashlight led lamp that I personally blew up stupidly in a poof of smoke; $15.00 and now as a result I alway check-no matter what to prevent that from ever happening again.

The bicycle lighting system manufacturers would have one believe(this cannot be done) trying to scare the "Joe Six Pack" bicycle lighting system consumer into buying their "no doubt" excessively expensive proprietary rechargeable external battery packs.

After one is done, just about any imaginable battery pack voltage source having the correct voltage whether it be SLA(sealed lead acid), AGM(absorbtion glass matting), Nickel Cadmium, Nickel Metal Hydride, Lithium Ion Cobolt Oxide, Lithium Ion Manganese Nickel Cobalt Oxide, Lithium Ion Iron Phosphate, Flooded Nickel Cadmium, etc.,

can now be connected and interfaced with a lowly MS Led Lightset that somehow all of a sudden now "inexplicably" outshines the "big boys" in both the "lumen illumination" department and "sustained battery runtime" department, much to the "consternation" of the "big boys" psychological scare tactics; are no longer working as well as planned/anticipated.

Cheers, now that is long overdue Led bicycle lighting system revolution indeed, for the bicycle lighting system consumer; not so much for the bicycle lighting system manufacturers.

Basically, a simple and effective connectorizing upgrade and replacement that makes perfect sense from the standpoint of continued consumer practicality upgrade and basic economic consumer based common sense upgrade.

If anyone gets a chance to do this, because they want to have one uber capacity 8.8ah external battery pack that would allow one to run two MS lightheads on the handlebars at the same time for three hours continuously(8.8ah batter pack tucked under the stem bag/frame bag/top tube bag).

Don't be shy now, chime in with your upgrade experience(s) and the qualitative/quantitative result of having two twin beam MS Led Lightheads on the handlebar running off one uber 8.8ah battery pack; complete with twin beam pictures of MS Led Lightheads mounted on ones handlebars.

Even better, if someone does this type of relatively easy and simple upgrade, take and show pictures via BF forum posting of just how simple the upgrading process is to help further explode and exploit the arrogant bicycle lighting system manufacturers myth that one cannot upgrade ones own bicycle lighting system(how dare ordinary "joe six pack" cyclists do something as dastardly as that to the "big ten" bicycle lighting system manufacturers).

Cheers, now that's one heck of a definitive way D.I.Y.'s can help to lead the Led bicycle lighting system revolution, modest as that sounds!!

BillK

Corrected URL

Waterproof Connector

kudude

any thoughts on a reverse y to hook up two batteries to one head? 6 hrs of runtime. Don't know why you'd want it, but, you know

ItsJustMe

Yup, that's what I used to replace the cruddy proprietary connectors on my HID setup, and I even bought them there too.

I rode with All's amber strobe on the back for a couple of years, but I started breaking them fast, the last one only lasted 6 weeks, so I gave up and bought a Dinotte.

daniel58

https://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...-2-MALE/1.html

Yes, the reverse "y" adapter may prove useful so that one may connect and utilize the two 4.4aH rechargeable lithium ion batteries that come with the Magicshine Racer's kit system for $125 on Geomangear that also includes a helmet mounting bracket as well.

Unfortunately, geomangear is out of stock on the MS Racer's kit special presently but its due to have them back in stock by the 12th of November.

https://www.geomangear.com/index.php?...roducts_id=153

Now the advantage of using the reverse "y" adapter is one has the capability of doubling ones total battery run times when using a single Magicshine Led Lighthead; thus getting six hours of combined battery run time on two batteries versus only three hours of total battery run time on a single battery.

See for yourself and go through the provided example scenario, regarding maximizing lithium ion battery cycle life below:

Now that is something to definitely cheer about, as the rechargeable lithium ion batteries do not like to be discharged more than sixty percent of total battery capacity(4400maH per cell) in order to maximize lithium ion battery cycle life.

60% DOD(depth of discharge) of 4400maH is:

4400maH times 0.60 equals 2640maH of usable operating capacity

2640maH of capacity divided by 1466maH equals 1.80(1hr/48min) hours of high intensity light

2640maH of capacity divided by 1100maH equals 2.40(2hr/24min) hours of medium intensity light

By using the reverse "y" adapter one can extend ones total battery running times by two times:

60% DOD(depth of discharge) of 8800maH is:

8800maH times 0.60 equals 5280maH of usable operating capacity

5280maH of capacity divided by 1466maH equals 3.60(3hr/36min) hours of high intensity light

5280maH of capacity divided by 1100maH equals 4.80(4hr/48min) hours of medium intensity light

Now that is a heck of a boost to total battery running times which challenges even most non-MagicShine P7 Led Lighting systems, which do not have piggyback battery systems extension capability; because of their proprietary connector/battery bicycle lighting system design.

kudude looks like you stumbled onto a "major find" by finding a way to add even more major battery subsystems runtimes cheaply and inexpensively($40) as an add-on value added option for all MagicShine users, once again to the "consternation" of the "big ten" bicycle lighting system manufacturers.

Now that is something to finally cheer about for all the MagicShine users; not so much for the "big ten" bicycle lighting system users.

P.S. One way a cyclist could configure a dual MS Led lighthead setup is:

keep one MS Led lighthead mounted on the handlebars, running them on high or medium intensity setting as needed depending on your particular speed and terrain circumstances.

and run the other MS Led lighthead mounted to ones helmet, with the lightset selected for the high intensity setting while aiming ones head appropriately depending on your particular speed and terrain circumstances.

This way one will be able to ride with absolute maximum confidence, safety and speed; no matter how dark or fast one goes while experiencing the unique perspectives of what nighttime cycling offers.

kudude

^ are the coax connectors you've linked at allelectronics the same I have on my MS? If not, I don't think retrofitting would be a problem, but if they are.......that's REALLY easy

daniel58

Yes I believe so, I have looked at the picture of the connectors by zooming them up in size and they definitely look like the standard Trail Tech DC power connectors.

Now on the actual MS connector it looks like on the male plastic plug body there is some kind of plastic molding protrusion that also happens to fit into the mating MS connector female jack receptacle.

Naturally of course, this should not be a major problem to get it to fit; one should be able to McGuyver it and get it to work even with the protrusion and if not its still a simple problem to resolve by replacing the MS connectorizing ends altogether(see post#526 for precautions/tips/instructions).

I believe after more closely examining and investigating the MS part in question, the molded protrusion is a crude attempt of making the connection lock together and make them fit tightly enough to offer some waterproof protection.

If one is anticipating to ride in the rain(had the unfortunate pleasure of riding in "all day rain" conditions for the NYC Five Boro Bike Tour in Spring 2009-->my cateye electronic cyclometer "bit the dust" as a result of the rain<-- and the Multiple Sclerosis "Coast the Coast" Bike Tour-5 hours of "solid pouring rain" conditions)

Therefore, it is strongly advisable to get the real deal in the form of the real mccoy Trail Tec waterproof connectors-(though that would require lopping off the MS connectors),

The upgrade however would ultimately be worth it as your setup would be truly waterproof and protected against the elements-thus truly protecting your MS investment unlike my R.I.P cateye cyclometer

P.S.

Now remember when wiring up the external battery pack up to the DC power Jack, that the MS lamp center pin has to have the red, positive voltage or hot side wired to it; I will walk you thru the checklist polarity checking protocol using your multi-meter; its simple and easy.

So one might want to check with a multi-meter to verify polarity for postive polarity to the center pin of DC power Jack or else one might burn up ones brand new MS lamp.

Couple things to check for that one should alway check for oneself, I just checked, confirmed and verified the polarity setting coming off the lithium ion battery charger male plug end,

Before typing this and the voltage is confirmed as positive polarity on the male center pin portion(the red color of multimeter test lead) being supplied to the corresponding lithium ion battery pack jack end(female end) coming off the li-ion battery pack;

With the all purpose uberhandy DC voltage multimeter reading +8.60VDC(negative test lead on the outer barrel of the lithium ion battery charger male plug end).

and just to make sure I connected the negative(black color) multimeter test lead to the center pin of charger male plug end(positive test lead on the outside barrel portion of corresponding male plug surface);

On the lithium ion battery charger male plug end and the polarity reversed to read -8.60VDC as expected, no nasty unexpected surprise here.

I learned this lesson with a flashlight led lamp that I personally blew up stupidly in a poof of smoke; $15.00 and now as a result I alway check-no matter what to prevent that from ever happening again.

If you particular multi-meter has a diode check function you can also check the diode polarity by simply:

Make sure the multi-meter is using the diode range,

Connect the "black" multimeter test lead to the cathode end(to the positive center pin of lighthead male plug)

Connect the "red" multimeter test lead to the anode end(to the negative outside barrel portion of lighthead male plug)

One should read low resistance less than 1,000 ohms verifying the forward bias status state, hooray its "good"

Reverse above multimeter test lead "red" and "black" connections connections and one should measure "open/high resistance" as expected; no nasty unexpected surprise here.

Connect the "red" multimeter test lead to the positive polarity(to the positive center pin of battery pack center pin)

Connect the "black" multimeter test lead to the negative polarity(to the negative outside portion of battery pack ring)

One should be able to measure +8.60VDC, as expected; no nasty unexpected surprise here.

Reverse the above multimeter test lead "red" and "black" connections connections and one should measure -8.60VDC, as expected; no nasty unexpected surprise here.

cheers to waterproof connectors

tFUnK

ordered mine friday from geomangear, got them today. quality seems pretty good, definitely better than i had expected. went on a 50 mile group ride, light was on "low" setting for most of the ride. "low" setting seems good enough for the riding i do, certainly better than my luxeons,p4,q5 cree flashlights. i did set it on high for some short stretches; very good to be able to light up the whole river path at night! strobe and sos modes are useless for me but i understand the reason for including them.

the only unsatisfactory issues are battery bag mount and lack of water proof. it doesn't rain much in southern california and i suppose if it did i could go back to my old flash lights. as for the battery pack mount, my kit did not come with any velcro straps, but that was okay as i had extras laying around. however, i rode through some bumpy roads tonight and i kept hearing my battery pack knocking against my top tube. i wonder if the batteries can get damaged like this? how shock-proof is the battery pack? one would think it should stand to some abuse but the knocking sounds were enough to make me worry. this is the first light i have with an external battery pack so i don't know if other brands have the same issue?

socalrider

The best thing to do is to wrap the bag around the top tube.. Unwrap the batter pack where you see the plastic part of the battery bag.. Put this side on the bottom side of your toptube.. As you wrap it around the top tube, you will see that the 2 loops will line up on the top side of the toptube..

You can get a 12" velcro strap and loop it through and cinch tight.. I bought some on ebay since my REI did not have the 12" model..

https://cgi.ebay.com/2-1-velcro-tie-u...item5d26e558e1

daniel58

Magicshine MJ-808 restocking alert e-mail has been sent this morning,

advising that within 48hours inbound Magicshine Led Lightset Systems will be arriving.

Geomangear is taking inbound orders on a first come first serve basis.

First orders should be shipping in two days from today if order is placed today.

Get them while they last, as on average they sell out within five days of stock arriving at Geomangear.

Good luck, if you are still waiting for one of your very own MagicShine P7 Led Lightset Torches.

When you get it in a couple days, please do not hesitate towrite reviews of your first impressions and of course naturally some of the quantitative and qualitative interesting aspects of this particular P7 Led Lightset System.

Look forward to reading all of your guys good/bad reviews,

your night riding impressions with the MS Led Bicycle Lighting system,

your positive/negative feedback responses with the MS Led Bicycle Lighting system,

your qualitative and quantitative evaluation of the MS P7 Led's Lightset's light beam pattern,

your comparison of the P7 Led Lightset's with your previous bicycle lighting system,

your interesting positive/negative experiences while cycling at night with the MS Bicycle Lighting system,

How you are utilizing the MS Lightset in your particular road, mountain, cyclocross, hybrid bicycle riding applications and how has it changed?

Is your nighttime cycling more confident, much safer and much faster and if so how?

Feel free to post outdoor lightbeam beamshot patterns for the MS P7 Led Lightset for typical outdoor road, mountain, trail conditions.

Cheers to viewing everyones experiences and feedback trying out the Magicshine Lighting system.

ItsJustMe

If you connect two batteries, they really should both be going through a diode, not just a straight cable. Otherwise whichever one is marginally higher in voltage will be backfeeding into the other one. Personally I'd just use one battery then switch to the other.

daniel58

True that is always a good preventative maintenance electrical safety countermeasure(better to play it on the safe side).

I was originally thinking the Lithium Ion rechargeable battery packs are already heavily protected via:

undervoltage protections circuits(anything less than 5.0VDC),

overvoltage protection circuits(anything greater than 8.4VDC),

overcurrent protection circuits(anything greater than 5amps),

short circuit protection circuits(anything greater than 5amps),

resettable poly switch circuit(trips out and resets itself if it goes above 2amps).

That is a total of five protection circuits in total, one of good things about lithium ion rechargeable battery pack they are some of the most electronically heavily protected of all the secondary rechargeable high energy density batteries.

Putting in a diode would introduce a 0.7VDC voltage drop would lower the voltage in forward bias mode.

So 7.4VDC would be reduced 0.7VDC to:

Veffective equals = Battery voltage minus Diode voltage drop

Veffective equals = 7.4VDC - 0.7VDC

Veffective equals = 6.7VDC

The diode showing battery status on the MS lightset goes from "green" to "red" around 6VDC.

I naturally debated long and hard about using the diode in the circuit after doing some of the preliminary rudimentary high school electricity physics calculations.

One could probably get away with using the circuit so long as both rechargeable lithium ion batteries has both the resettable poly switch and the pcm module remain functioning; the pcm electronic module is responsible for the protective functions for:

undervoltage/overvoltage protection and the overcurrent/short circuit protection; so as not to introduce the 0.7VDC offset resulting in a 6.4VDC effective battery terminal voltage.

Now of course while considering this particular electrical case study scenario, it is usually naturally customary to size the battery capacity upwards to what is anticipted to be needed as a total maximum current rating in ones battery application.

In this case, I would still tend to strongly agree with you, in that one should still probably use the 7.4VDC 8.8aH external rechargeable lithium ion battery pack(if one could afford that option-if not; its more of a McGuyver solution; it will work but not ideally), as it offers more generous battery run times before broaching the sixty percent DOD(Depth Of Discharge) guideline for rechargeable lithium ion batteries.

Since its really not that much more additional money over the long haul, its still the preferred and ultimately safer solution;

also the wear and tear on the larger battery will be significantly less also as well as a side free fringe benefit(the lower the percentage DOD the healthier for the rechargeable lithium ion battery overall; as that has a tendency to maximize battery cycle life)

So basically I also agree with everything you have said so far and your take and analysis on it so far, naturally of course some people like to play devils advocate and say it also works without the diode, see.

Most of the time it will, its the times when it doesn't; one has usually not factored that into the equation.

In fact if one were to do it by "the electronic theory practices book", one should really also use an inline fuse as well of course to protect against a catastrophic meltdown scenario; which is always a good idea(never can be to electrically safe).

I like to explain all the facets, viewpoints, parameters, and reasoning "behind the scenes considerations" for a particular electronics case study application,

and then have the individuals both verbally decide and explain for themselves what is right for their chosen application,

and then have them explain to me why they are comfortable with that decision and explain their reasoning why they think its right for their particular chosen application.

So long as they are aware of all of the qualifications/options/limitations of their "own" reasoning as well as the expectations going forward into their informed decision making process, I am only then satisfied that I have advised and gave them all their afforded options.

Still even $72.00(when compared with $220.00) for an 8.8ah external rechargeable lithium ion battery pack is an inexpensive add-on value added option for all MagicShine users to consider(no brainer), once again to the "consternation" of the "big ten" bicycle lighting system manufacturers.

Now that is something to finally cheer about for all the MagicShine users; not so much for the "big ten" bicycle lighting system users.

I should know because I used to own a Princeton Tec Switchback I Led Lightset-till I sold it and got this instead.

------>I did not get mad but I definitely got "even" in a big "logical" way;

to bad the game is up for the "big ten" bicycle lighting system manufacturers;

as I have seen the "light" figuratively speaking,

after seeing myself thru a rather detailed indepth investigation, analysis and post analysis,

specifically comparing non-Magicshine Led Bicycle Lighting systems and

contrasting them directly against the Magicshine Led Lightset Bicycle Lighting system in a head on comparison test.

Magicshine compares very favorably for the bicycle lighting system consumer and definitely offers a "good value" and "lumens" bang for the "dollar",

while at the same time offering "unheard of" modular lumens upgradable future expansion ability/capability options as well as "affordable generic non-proprietary" battery subsystem expansion options(600 lumens tiers at a time); what more could a bicycle lighting system consumer ask for from a bicycle lighting system manufacturer.

cheers for the double the capacity 8.8ah secondary rechargeable lithium ion capacity batteries

nayr497

I bet it has been answered, but what are the benefits of the "racer pack"?

And I have read people have taped the battery pack to make it waterproof, but I'm still unclear on how you are doing it. Taking the batteries out of their case and wrapping them up with tape? Taping the pouch?

TwoHeadsBrewing

The four battery cells come shrink-wrapped with plastic from the factory. However, the shrink-wrap doesn't cover the ends very well so this is where you want to tape it. I taped the ends of the battery pack, then put the whole thing back in the bag. That should hold up to anything short of me falling into a river.

Chilled

Got my MS last week. I have used it daily and have not been disappointed. If I decide to turn this into a physics experiment, I'll report back later.

daniel58

The racer pack includes an $38.00 extra rechargeable lithium ion battery pack as well as the MagicShine head/helmet mount that is $9.99.

Ostensibly, the bicycle racer pack was designed specifically for the ardent cyclist that spends enough time cycling at night to require bright cycle lighting by cycling tourers, cycling commuters and cycling racers.

The racer pack is a pretty good deal since it comes with an extra rechargeable lithium ion battery pack that allows one to easily extend battery run times as well as giving the cyclist the option of mounting the MagicShine Led Lightset in a head/helmet mounted configuration(handsfree) both are very important and desireable traits to the above demographic cyclist bases.

I look at it this way, anyone in possesion of a MagicShine Led Lightset with two batteries and a head/helmet mount can basically also use this as a very convenient and useful handsfree flashlight(very intuitive and natural feeling),

which only adds to the utility, value added functionality and usefulness in a very bright high intensity personal lighting system with a very long six hour run time that has desireable high light intensities(retina blinding) approaching that of a very much more costly HID lighting system(can only run about forty minutes per shot at the highest intensity setting versus up to six hours on MS) costing at least three times more(already all of my three watt high intensity Led flashlights have been retired as a direct result of this MS-nothing short of amazing).

This is simply put, one of the most radically advanced design featured, advanced compact profile, brightest intensity and longest running(up to six hours) ten watt high intensity Led hands-free substitute flashlight; that I have seen to date that is under one hundred dollars period.

Now that is definitely something to cheer about for any confirmed lightaholic who is already spending to much money on their flashlight collection in order to get the latest, best and brightest design(this lightset ends that search or at the very least puts it on hold for the forseeable future horizon).

cheers

youthcom

I have my MS mounted upside down, but now I'm wondering if that's such a good idea in case of rain? The holes where the wire enters the body & where the screw threads into the body are probably not water tight but may be sufficient for a downpour? Anyone here think water could seep inside & build up?

tFUnK

i don't think the MS is even splash-proof without some sort of modification. i'll stick to my cree flashlights for stormy weather riding.

daniel58

One could always try using something like clear acrylic nail polish and apply that where the wire enters the MagicShine body where the screw threads into the body.

I am familiar with that screw; as I took that off in order so that I could easier stick one side of ones black latex o-ring in the channel where the wire enters the Magicshine body in the front.

The good news it will only make it even more waterproof than it is now so any improvement will probably be significantly increased.

Also use several coatings of clear acrylic nail polish to help ensure the areas are sealed as best as possible and use the heat from a hair dryer to help it dry a bit faster.

Let us know how it all works out in the end.

cheers

ItsJustMe

The light head certainly is; I've had mine apart and there are silicone seals where there need to be. The battery pack, not so much as ships, but a little tape fixes that right up. I've ridden in fairly heavy rain and opened the lighthead up the next day, no dampness, and the battery pack is still working 3 weeks later. I may eventually use some silicone and seal the pack up properly, the black electrical tape should keep the rain out but it'd be nice to know it's properly waterproof.

Honestly, just wrap a plastic bag around the thing and be careful how you route the wires (so water drips away instead of towards the pack) and it'd be fine in any downpour.

TwoHeadsBrewing

I'd resist the urge to form an opinion on a product you don't even own.

youthcom

The only seals on mine are the ones sandwiching the glass lens. The hole for the cord may be small enough that the cord provides somewhat of a seal, but not sure about the screw. Some silicone glue between the mount & the body may be a good idea.

operator

Just had mine stolen tonight - stupid enough to leave it on my bike with the big steal me standby light (seriously get rid of that **** please.)

Tried to reorder from geomangear about 10 times in a row, wouldn't work even though I ordered succesfully from there before. Wouldn't accept my cc. **** this. ****

tFUnK

i agree with that statement in general, but it doesn't apply in this case (see post #533). i stand by my opinion and decision that, although i love riding in the rain, i will not be doing so with this light unless i weatherproof it somehow.

tFUnK

good to know. i was concerned/skeptical when i saw the part where the wire enters the headlight body as well as the battery pack and connector.