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I would agree that the LD20 is adequate for riding on reasonable speeds on well paved roads. I also have managed to get cars to flash their high beams at me to get me to turn my "headlights" down. Cracked me up.
The only time I feel it isn't enough is riding unlit MUPs and whatnot that have a more visually complex field in front of you. |
I would agree that the LD20 is adequate for riding on reasonable speeds on well paved roads. |
I was able to borrow a MagicShine and ride on a MUP tonight. It's better than the LD20+, but it's not that awesome. I didn't feel like I could see meaningfully farther. It was obvious, however, that a much wider area was illuminated. However, for me (I have pretty bad night vision), the flood area wasn't bright enough. I could see things vaguely in the flood area, but not enough to be really confident about what I was seeing. It still had me swerving a bit to move the beam side-to-side so I could see into corners and whatnot.
Still, I don't think it gets any better than that for less than $800. |
Originally Posted by williaty
(Post 11220428)
I was able to borrow a MagicShine and ride on a MUP tonight. It's better than the LD20+, but it's not that awesome. I didn't feel like I could see meaningfully farther. It was obvious, however, that a much wider area was illuminated. However, for me (I have pretty bad night vision), the flood area wasn't bright enough. I could see things vaguely in the flood area, but not enough to be really confident about what I was seeing. It still had me swerving a bit to move the beam side-to-side so I could see into corners and whatnot.
Still, I don't think it gets any better than that for less than $800. The most economical way to have enough light to see around corners is to buy a helmet light, for sure. Then you can keep your handlebar light pointed forward, but point the helmet light wherever it is you're trying to see. It's a *lot* less expensive than buying a light bright enough to illuminate everywhere you're trying to see. |
I have a MG-P pocket rocket on my helmet along with the MS on the handlebar. So far it is a great combo. The light on the handle bar gives great lumination of pot holes and flood while the helmet light gives greater throw at specific target. It save me more than once having that extra helmet light.
In my morning commute, there is a section of road where I have the blinking yellow light at the intersection while cross traffic has the blinking red. More than one time car does not bother to stop at those intersection and run the red. To make matter worse, there are houses at the corner along with parked cars. They sometime do not see me coming with the light at my handlebar. However with the better throw of my helmet light, I can throw a beam into their corner lighting up the intersection and they slow down thinking a car is close by the intersection. It works for me so well that I'm seriously thinking of getting the MG-X thrower flashlight which throws even a tighter beam. |
Originally Posted by Richard Cranium
(Post 11220402)
Well, what I was trying to get noticed was the fact that any idiot can use a couple of rubber bands and have an adjustable mount for about any flashlight that works so well you can't believe it!!! I did not know about until I actually tried it.
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If the light isn't staying, you don't have the light supported under its center of gravity. Find the light's center of gravity, put it right on top of the bar/mount, and it'll be MUCH more likely to stay put.
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Yeah, that may be true. However, I got tired of trying to find the "sweet spot" when putting on top of the handlebar. So I started putting it under the handlebar instead. It still shifts, but not as bad.
When/if I can come up with the scratch, I'm getting a dyno, mounting a light on the fork crown, and still using the flashlight on the skid lid. |
Flood on the handlebars, throw on the helmet. I have a P7 flashlight attached to the handlebars and a Q5 flashlight on the helmet. I really like the helmet light because I can point it in any direction. It also is helpful on the one mile of unlit MUP at night. I can use it to scan the edges of the path for critters. As it's a residential area, I've seen cats and I really don't want to hurt someone's pet.
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Originally Posted by a1penguin
(Post 11257107)
Flood on the handlebars, throw on the helmet. I have a P7 flashlight attached to the handlebars and a Q5 flashlight on the helmet. I really like the helmet light because I can point it in any direction. It also is helpful on the one mile of unlit MUP at night. I can use it to scan the edges of the path for critters. As it's a residential area, I've seen cats and I really don't want to hurt someone's pet.
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Originally Posted by williaty
(Post 11220428)
I was able to borrow a MagicShine and ride on a MUP tonight. It's better than the LD20+, but it's not that awesome. I didn't feel like I could see meaningfully farther. It was obvious, however, that a much wider area was illuminated. However, for me (I have pretty bad night vision), the flood area wasn't bright enough. I could see things vaguely in the flood area, but not enough to be really confident about what I was seeing. It still had me swerving a bit to move the beam side-to-side so I could see into corners and whatnot.
Still, I don't think it gets any better than that for less than $800. |
I used the MS and LD2 on the bars for a few rides, and I kept wondering why the LD2 wasn't working. It was working, but the light was drowned out by the MS. I am now riding with a MS and Fenix LD20 for backup and a cheap helmet light. ($20 at target by energizer) I did some comparison testing and discovered that the LD 20 does indeed "show up" as long as the MS in on its low setting. However the MS on medium or high completely snows over the LD 200 and older Dinotte 160s. And although the LD20 is a generously wide beam, the MS is still larger. (too large for my taste - I'd rather have more throw) Not that this matters to anyone else, I can use my Dinotte batteries with the MS giving me oodles of convenience and run time. Here's the deal - about the actual OP - whether to "flood" or "spot." In real life, unless you run a really high power light, like at least 400-500 lumen, then you should have an axillary spotting light for some of the incidental situations. Too often a street sign will be too high or too wide for a normal beam to catch. Another big factor is when animal or autos are approaching from an angle. Currently my setup allows me to "flash oncoming" objects that at an angle to me to assure that they see me. A typical case could involve a fork in a road or deer or a dog coming from the side. |
Originally Posted by Richard Cranium
(Post 11260948)
Here's the deal - about the actual OP - whether to "flood" or "spot." In real life, unless you run a really high power light, like at least 400-500 lumen, then you should have an axillary spotting light for some of the incidental situations. Too often a street sign will be too high or too wide for a normal beam to catch.
Another big factor is when animal or autos are approaching from an angle. Currently my setup allows me to "flash oncoming" objects that at an angle to me to assure that they see me. A typical case could involve a fork in a road or deer or a dog coming from the side. |
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