OK, so I picked up a Keygos M10a, a trustfire A8, a nitecore sysmax version 2 intellicharger and some batteries (MNKE IMR26650 3700mAh to be precise, apparently these are 2nd edition, they no longer make the 4000 mAh version)

Couple questions if one of you could provide some clarity

1) How do you validate the charging voltage on the charger? The open voltage with no battery in there is 5.2 volts. The charger supposedly charges at 4.2 volts (which is the correct voltage for these batteries). While charging, the voltage is obviously about 3.8 or whatever the battery is currently near.

2) I bought 2 lockblocks for the flashlights, but perhaps there is more than one kind? The ones I have use two different size grips, if that makes sense. A larger one that fits my handlebar or mostly fits the flashlight, or a small one that fits neither but I can jam it on there anyway. Is there a larger size out there that I just missed?

3) Lockblock part 2 - one flashlight stayed pretty well put while riding, the other kept wandering up and down, which was a pain. In either case, they both jiggled quite a bit while riding on less than pristine pavement. Any tips there?

4) Both flashlights mode skipped like a son of a ***. I recall reading that a rare earth magnet will solve that problem - both lights appear to make good electrical connections with the batteries so is the rare earth magnet applied to the end of the battery or just inside the flashlight, and what's the purpose? A conductive shim? Is the thickness important? I have some fairly thick ones laying around from my efforts to get my garmin cadence sensor working properly (it does now)

5) The trustfire light is rock solid (aside from mode skipping). The Keygos rattles like crazy when riding. I like a quiet bike, what can I say. Does this gibe with anybody else's experience? The rattling appears to come from the emitter half of the flashlight (not the battery well). I took it apart today and nothing huge appears to be out of order.

6) The IMR chemistry is supposed to be "safe." Does that mean my kitchen won't catch fire or should I treat these like all the other lithium battery formulations?

I would really like to get these working perfectly. I was seriously impressed with the quantity and quality of light that the two put out in combination. I had the trustfire aimed a bit closer and it really lights up the close road, and the keygos illuminated things that were much farther away. It really gave me the confidence to pedal hard in total darkness.

Hi TrojanHorse

I have those same two lights on the way with the same intent, one for flood and one for throw. As far as the lockblocks I believe those are intended more for AA size flashlights. They also make one for larger diameters called cyclopblocks (I also see them called cycloblock and cycleblock).

Here is what I'm talking about: https://www.batteryjunction.com/twofish-cycloblocks.html
In one of the threads here someone also recommended the dealextreme version: https://www.dealextreme.com/p/univers...diameter-31871

While waiting for my lights I'll be anxiously checking this thread to see if anyone can help with those other issues, good luck!

I have a different Keygos light, and I was playing with the light head while the rest was charging one day and took it all apart. When I re-assembled it and tightened everything down I found that it stopped rattling and the zoom was tighter and stayed in place.

You should be able to measure the voltage relative to ground while charging. If you have a plug in cradle charger just measure voltage across the battery.

Sherbona - thanks, that looks like it's exactly what I need. Now if only I can find them in stock!

zacster - the voltage across the bettery terminals while charging was less than 4. I'll have to dismantle my keygos and hope for the same result.

Chargers generally put out a specific current and monitor the voltage of the battery in response. The voltage is whatever is needed to drive the specific current given the battery's state of charge. Based on how that voltage behaves over time (increases, remains steady, decreases), the charger will decide when the battery is fully charged and cut off or go into trickle. If there's no battery hooked up, the charger still tries to drive the current and goes to whatever max voltage limit it has set in trying to do so.

how long are the cells you are using.. never had issues with mode skipping with the m10a - the TF a8 has had mode skip issues before.. You want to use cells that are 68mm to 70mm in length to help prevent mode skipping.. Using RE magnets will help - they can be bought on ebay but you have to buy a bunch of them. Sometime one will do the trick - but if you use shorts cells you may need a thicker one or stack a couple smaller ones together.. I use both of these lights and lockblocks work fine, I use the larger size on the bars since I use 31.8 and smaller side topside for the lights..

The only issue is that you may need extra velcro straps, since the smaller side strap is made for aa flashlight - it is usually too small for 26650 light. Usually 8 to 10 inches works best for 26650 light.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Neodymium...item2c685e28eb

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Neodymium...item2ec1c937c5

My cells charged up to 4.2 v, so I guess that's good.

The cells themselves are 66.2mm long, which is perhaps shorter than spec if the 66.5 part of the model is to be believed. I have some spare neodymium magnets laying around from my efforts to improve my Garmin speed sensor so I added one to the negative pole of each battery and the cases screw together just fine - I hope that works!

Interestingly, the magnet in the keygos M10 seems to have benefited my rattle issue too.

As for the lockblock, the strap is physically long enough but the rubber mount portion is indeed AA sized flash looking. I'll keep my eyes peeled for a more appropriate block.

Tomorrow night is the big retest.