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A tubeless question

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A tubeless question

Old 02-24-18, 11:13 AM
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A tubeless question

So, I was ready to make the jump to tubeless. While shopping for the needed supplies, I was not sure which sealant to get, so I did a little research and discovered that the sealants dry out. Some in 6 months others; a year.
My question is; What do you do when it dries out? Do you remove the tire and scrape out the dried crud? Do you just add more? But won't this make the tire heavier than clincher?
Answers would be much appreciated
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Old 02-24-18, 12:43 PM
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Depends on the OCD level of the rider.
When I ran Tubeless I simply topped up until something else prompted tire removal.
Then I’d scoop out what was easily removable.
Other do remove the gunk - try a net search for ”stanimals” - on regular interval.
I wouldn’t worry about the added weight. IMO it’d take years of top-ups before the weight became important.
Most of sealant by weight is liquid. Which is lost. Which forces the top-up. The amount of particles is low.
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Old 02-24-18, 04:40 PM
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if you ride any appreciable number of miles you wear the tires down faster than you accumulate a lot of dried crud. and most of the liquid evaporates away, very few solids. it msotly layers at the tire (looks like like a condom in a way... is is not little particles flying around)
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Old 02-24-18, 11:04 PM
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I use Caffelatex sealant. After a year (3,000 mi on the Mukluk) I removed the tires to remove the dried sealant - it weighed about 1/4 pound (100 or so g), a lot less than a tube. HerrKaleun is correct - the solvent (water in the case of Caffelatex) evaporates and leaves very little mass. I doubt that I'll remove dried sealant again. I ride in areas with a lot of Russain Olive & mesquite twigs, both of those have large thorns that make large holes so I lose a bit of sealant with each puncture. I find that I need to add sealant about every three to five months. I also used the Caffelatex tubeless strips. Those aren't adhesive - they are formed in a loop that stretches around the rim. I found them very easy to apply and very effective.

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Old 02-25-18, 12:03 AM
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for road bikes, I've read that one needs to top up every 6 weeks with 60ml of sealant (that's only 2 tablespoons which I squirt through the valve shroud

I'm using Orange sealant and it wipes off the frame and rim very easily and does not leave any residue. I'm using the 2017 IRC Formula Pro RBCC tubeless tyres and have had 4 punctures so far, and 3 sealed.

I used a worm plug for the most recent, as it is a bigger cut. Got me home (on 40psi as anyair pumped in after that just popped the seal) .... On the inside of the tyre, I have used an old fashioned patch that uses the vulcanized rubber glue, and over that, I added a Park Tool tyre boot for good measure. I also added a dab of the vulcanized glue to the outside cut, and it's sealed it so far with no air loss

So far so good and the tyre has lots of life left. I've also bought Slime STR sealant and am trying this now (apparantly, it seals punctures up to 3mm wide. I'ts a lot thicker and time will tell if is better than Orange sealant. (I will also try the new Stans Race Sealant next)

so what I've learned so far:

the wider the tyre, the more effective the sealant works. (If you can fit 28's to your frame, use them instead of 25's)

fit them and ride them till they need replacing (don't faff around swopping the front to the back etc) .... and if need be, just buy one tyre at a time (replace the back and keep using the front tyre till it needs replacing

always carry an inner tube and a clincher. If you get a gash that does not seal, or plug with a worm, swop the tubeless tyre for a clincher and tube. I've read that if you add a tube to a tubeless tyre, you risk a high probability of getting a pinch flat as the beads are different (not sure if this is true though)

carry a decent pump and Co2 ... some say that the Co2 does not react well with some sealants, but if ever you have to replace the tubeless tyre with another tubeless tyre while on a ride, your little pocket rocket handpump will not seat the tyre. Use CO2, let the CO2 out once the tyre has seated, and add a bit more sealant (always carry sealant with you, aswell as proper tubeless tyre levers (at 50+ per tyre, you dont want to damage the bead

always try and fit the tyre by hand .... don't use tyre levers ..... there is a way to fit tight tyres by hand, it just takes a bit longer

always carry some superglue (there are different types.... you need the one that flexes)

thats what I've learned so far as regards tubeless tyres.

I've just bought a Whyte Suffolk gravel/adventure bike for my daily commuting and a few Audax rides. I will have my LBS build a tubeless ready wheelset, and I will use Hutchinson Sector 28 on this bike. (I also want to try some Compass tyres in Summer)

On my fast bike, I'm currently running the IRC tubeless tyres, but I will swop them for Specialized Turbo Cotton tyres with latex tubes (amazing tyres)

Thats the beauty of tubeless ready rims.... you can use tubeless or clincher, and there are some really good tubeless tyres on the market

Last edited by dim; 02-25-18 at 04:18 AM.
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