I've decided I need studded tires on my fat bike. The question is should I install studs myself on my existing 45NRTH Dillinger 5 26x4.6 tires or buy them already studded? I only briefly looked at the cost of DIY, the tool is just $8 but the studs when you consider 258 for each tire (I counted the stud holes) and now we're getting into some serious $. I often see used tires for cheaper than it will cost to DIY and also lesser brands new that are $100 per tire but I do not know the quality. The pre-studded 45NRTH stuff is expensive brand new. Can you suggest affordable options?

You can also just populate half the studs.

I'd be more concerned about the time and effort of installing said studs.

Some bike shops can install the studs for the same price you'd get the studs alone.

PIA. Buy them studded.

If you need studs get them pre-installed on a good quality set of tires. Otherwise just get a good quality set of tires without studs. Studding yourself costs more (time is money)

Okay, buying pre-studded tires is what I will do, but now, the question is what brand/model to get. My intention with getting the fat tire bike was just to continue my summer road biking route, which is paved paths but they are now covered in snow and ice in Minnesota. I wrongly thought the fat tires (26x4.6 Dillinger) would have better traction on ice, but I immediately fell and jammed my wrist. It's not a serious injury but it has sold me on needed studded tires because I'm too old to take falls. I don't really care about biking efficiency, I just want to get exercise and not fall, so I'm leaning towards a tire with the most studs like the 45NRTH Wrathlorde, but maybe that's overkill for my biking. What are your recommendations for brands/models? I think the paved trails can be even more icy than the dirt trails.

Have you considered snow chains?

I hadn't, seems extreme, but I don't know anything about them. I use chains with cleats on my shoes in the winter when I'm out walking the dog.

Brand or model doesn't matter. As long as the tires have studs you should be ok. Top 2 fat tire manufacturers are 45nrth and Terrenne right now. Buy whatever fits your budget.

I use the Terrene Wazia Light but the 45nrth tires are ok as well.

I didn't pay full price. Found used ones on Facebook. Ebay or Pinkbike is another good place to look for studded fat bike tires.

I found a decent price for a new pair of 45nrth Wrathlordes. 300 xl studs per tire. Hopefully these will keep me upright. I'm also going to ditch the SPD pedals. Open to recommendations on pedals -- I'm considering Raceface Chester pedals since they get good reviews.

Those tires will be fine for what you want.

Those would be decent pedals especially during cold weather since they are composite.

Time Link pedals would be ok if you think you may want to clip in again. Gives you the choice of doing one or the other. Plus they have the easy release cleat.

https://shop.sram.com/products/link?...DsZqoVra267chU

https://www.sram.com/en/time-sport/m...d-atac-eclt-a1

My Salsa came with the rear tire tread reversed . It seemed odd to me, I've always followed the direction on the tire, so I asked 45nrth why and here is the reply:

​​​​​​"Tread directionality on most tires is typically to allow for faster rolling speed. With fat tires, reversing them will allow for more traction. Ultimately it's up to you how you set them up and what benefits you reap! "

I'm leaning towards installing them with the normal recommended direction on the tire since the studs should add all the grip I need. Any thoughts about this? Will one direction be better on ice with studded tires?

Their statement is correct as it applies to riding on snow. It's not going to make a difference on pavement, ice covered pavement or hard packed snow on top of pavement.

I studded my Dillinger 5's myself because 45NRTH offered two sizes of studs, but the tires weren't available pre-studded with the XL studs. Then, when I moved to 27.5" tires, I moved the studs from the 26" tires. If you do decide to stud them yourself, expect your hand to get tired.

Yeah, others convinced me it was just too much work so I bought the 45nrth wrathlordes already studded. I can see how the installation would be tiring on the hand. If I loose a lot of studs I may buy the tool and some studs to replace them -- that seems more doable. How do you think the xl studs are better/worse for various conditions?

Another question I have is about what PSI to run them at on ice and packed snow and pavement. I was running them at 15psi, which I know is a lot higher than most people run them, but on payment I was bouncing around too much. I'm thinking of trying 9 or 10 psi, but can't see really low pressure working for me at 240lbs. Also, I have inner tubes in them and can't see the advantage of tubeless. Maybe I'm wrong, but it just looks like it makes a mess of the tires for little gain.

The XL studs are the only ones I've used, so I don't have anything to compare them to. They certainly work.
I run my (studded) Dillinger 5s at 4 PSI in the front and 6 PSI in the rear. They're pretty soft and not bouncy, but there's some rolling resistance for sure. I ride these on ice, packed snow, slush, and unpacked snow.
I run my Bontrager Barbegazi tires at 8 PSI front and back, because anything lower results in the feeling of "self steering". I ride these on pavement, gravel, and dry dirt.
For me (155 lbs) and my bike (30 lbs), assuming a 60/40 weight distribution, 6 PSI in the rear and 4 PSI in the front results in a contact patch of about 18.5 square inches for each tire. That's maybe a 3-inch by 8-inch ellipse. It's a recipe for good traction, and it almost guarantees that some studs will be in contact with the ice at all times. At 240 lbs and let's say 40 lbs for your bike, you can get the same results riding 9 PSI in the rear and 6 PSI in the front. But you should feel free to experiment with even lower pressures, especially if you are running tubeless.
Weight savings, and safer to run at lower pressures. Each tube weighs about a pound. Shaving weight around the outside of your wheel makes a difference you can really feel. Without tubes, you can run at lower pressures without risk of pinch flats. It's a little messy, but you get used to it. If you never get flats or change your tires, you only have to deal with it once a year when adding fresh sealant. Punctures are just about non-existent at such low pressures, but I will say I've never had a flat on my gravel bike in the 3000 miles that I've ridden it so far, or any of my bikes that I run tubeless.

15 psi at your weight is pushing those tires a little. You run the risk of blowing them off the rim. Trust me...I've seen it happen twice now.

Stick with 7-10 for packed snow and pavement. 10 psi rear and 7 psi front. Lower pressure if the conditions are worse such as mash potato snow.

Tubeless = less weight and if you trail ride the tire conforms to the surface better instead of fighting the tube inside the tire.

https://flowtbikes.com/fat/tubeless-tires-fat-tire/

Too late for the OP, but I just found this deal and ordered a set of CST Toboggans.
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/t...studded-tire-p

$79 ea., free shipping in the USA.

CST are on the high quality side of affordable tires.

Cheap because they are wire bead and 60 tpi. Also gonna be heavy.