embarassing problem
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
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embarassing problem
I'm getting some numbness after riding. It's ahh,, ahem, errr my "tool". It feels like when your leg falls asleep. After a few minutes off the bike it goes away. I have followed all the advice for proper fit on my bike and I'm on my second saddle bought from a bike shop. No pain or discomfort while riding and my sit bones and muscles have finally got used to riding a bike again. I'm not sure what to do about this and don't want to cause any physical problems by continuing to ride with this happening. It's frustrating and embarrassing. If anyone else has experienced this, please let me know what you did to alleviate the problem. A PM is fine if you don't want to discuss it publicly. Great subject posted from the new guy eh?
#2
aka Phil Jungels
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 8,234
Likes: 91
From: North Aurora, IL
Bikes: 08 Specialized Crosstrail Sport, 05 Sirrus Comp
It's a common issue, and usually resolved with the right saddle. Or, correct positioning of the saddle, or on the saddle.
You should not feel any pressure on that soft tissue, while seated.
Perhaps, you are a candidate for a Selle AnAtomica, with a cut out.
I love Selle AnAtomica and Brooks for comfort, and I don't even have a cut out saddle... Selle AnAtomica is comfort, right out of the box!
I suggest levelling that saddle, perfectly, and then making minor adjustments until you can position your butt anywhere, without moving. Then even more minor positioning until you feel nothing on your soft tissue...... it's not really at your tool, just feels like it.
You should not feel any pressure on that soft tissue, while seated.
Perhaps, you are a candidate for a Selle AnAtomica, with a cut out.
I love Selle AnAtomica and Brooks for comfort, and I don't even have a cut out saddle... Selle AnAtomica is comfort, right out of the box!
I suggest levelling that saddle, perfectly, and then making minor adjustments until you can position your butt anywhere, without moving. Then even more minor positioning until you feel nothing on your soft tissue...... it's not really at your tool, just feels like it.
#3
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
I'll second Wanderer on the seat advice. I have gone to seats with grooves (several Specialized models) and cutouts (Terry Fly, my favorite all time seat). But I do take issue with "level". That's a good starting place, but every bike that has fit me well has a nose down seat. If I leveled out the seat, I would have to raise my bars and ride with more wind resistance. Only real benefit would be pleasing others.
Ben
Ben
#4
just another gosling


Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 20,553
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From: Everett, WA
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
This is a very common problem. A saddle with a cut-out fixes it. However which saddle is still a bit of a trick to get right. A Specialized Romin will fit most folks very well. Some people do well on a Selle SMP. Go to a LBS that sells Specialized and have your sit-bones measured for width. Then try a saddle of the recommended width.
#5
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Oh good. Gives me the opportunity to be an equal opportunity offender.
Back when I was riding diamond frame bikes Brooks saddles solved that problem for me.
Now I ride recumbent bikes and don't have that problem anymore either.
Back when I was riding diamond frame bikes Brooks saddles solved that problem for me.
Now I ride recumbent bikes and don't have that problem anymore either.
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My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
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#6
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2015
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I've done some research on seat positioning and actually have my seat a few degrees tilted BACK, not forward. I think I'll try tilting it a few degrees forward and see if that does anything. I hate to keep buying saddles to find the perfect one but if I'm going to continue riding daily I have to have a good fit. Thanks for the replies
#7
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: SW Fl.
Bikes: 1999 DAHON Mariner, Day6 Semi Recumbent "FIREBALL", 1981 Custom Touring Paramount, 1983 Road Paramount, 2013 Giant Propel Advanced SL3, 2018 Specialized Red Roubaix Expert mech., 2002 Magna 7sp hybrid, 1976 Bassett Racing 45sp Cruiser
Shorts with extra padding might also help, JOF Fifty Five, might help
#8
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Sometimes it isn't the saddle but the shorts. Shorts that are too tight can add to the effect of saddle pressure in critical places. Also padding which has sometimes become excessive adds to the problem because it transfers pressure form the "sit bones" where you can handle it, to more central areas where it cuts off circulation.
So padded saddles and shorts are a mixed blessing, often trading less saddle soreness for numbness other places.
If this is a new problem for you, and you're been riding without it for a while, the first question you need to ask, is "what changed". The answer will help point you in the right direction, unless of course if you're just riding longer.
One thing that does help is to stand or at least lift slightly off the saddle for a short interval from time to time. I rarely or never have this issue riding the rolling terrain where I live, but sometimes see it happen on long flat rides. The only difference is that climbing rakes weight off the saddle in ways that pedaling along on the flats doesn't.
So padded saddles and shorts are a mixed blessing, often trading less saddle soreness for numbness other places.
If this is a new problem for you, and you're been riding without it for a while, the first question you need to ask, is "what changed". The answer will help point you in the right direction, unless of course if you're just riding longer.
One thing that does help is to stand or at least lift slightly off the saddle for a short interval from time to time. I rarely or never have this issue riding the rolling terrain where I live, but sometimes see it happen on long flat rides. The only difference is that climbing rakes weight off the saddle in ways that pedaling along on the flats doesn't.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#9
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Joined: Apr 2015
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O.K. just went around the block with the front of the seat down a few degrees. Didn't' like it. It felt like I was sliding forward off the seat a little. Now I have the seat perfectly level and it feels good. Not sure where I read the seat should be tilted back a little but neutral feels the best so far. Not long enough of a ride to see if the numbness returns but I can't imagine a few degrees of seat tilt will make all the difference in the world. I hope I'm wrong. My LBS where I bought this saddle said I could return it and try a different one if I wanted. What does he do with returned saddles? He can't sell it as "new" as I've put 100mi. on it. Sounds like a losing proposition for him and I don't think he's getting rich with the business. He's too nice of a guy. I feel like I should just out right buy another saddle so as not to take advantage. My wife is now saying I'm OCD with the bike and that I'm constantly making unnecessary adjustments. She should know me better than that. It's not right until it's right and I'll keep fiddling until I'm satisfied.
#10
Thread Starter
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Actually I'm still quite interested in recumbents and may eventually end up with one. I need to find a dealer and take one for a spin
#11
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Sounds like that might be a tough sale to your wife. But at least when you bring it up, your tinkering on the existing bike may be cheap by comparison.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,135
Likes: 108
From: Middle of the road, NJ
First you shouldn't be embarrassed at all, numbness can lead to serious issues, in the hands, feet or, crotchal area.
Try looking for a bike shop that has a seat library. They are seats that you borrow, basically pay for, then return when you find one that works for you, and you then get a new one. or your money back if you don't find one that works. (Just be prepared to have a really ugly saddle on your bike for a while)
BTW, when changing your seat position, make really small changes, like 1or 2 degrees for tilt, or 1 or 2 mm for fore and aft changes.
Try looking for a bike shop that has a seat library. They are seats that you borrow, basically pay for, then return when you find one that works for you, and you then get a new one. or your money back if you don't find one that works. (Just be prepared to have a really ugly saddle on your bike for a while)
BTW, when changing your seat position, make really small changes, like 1or 2 degrees for tilt, or 1 or 2 mm for fore and aft changes.
#13
Seat Sniffer


Joined: Sep 2007
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From: SoCal
Bikes: Serotta Legend Ti; 2006 Schwinn Fastback Pro and 1996 Colnago Decor Super C96; 2003 Univega Alpina 700; 2000 Schwinn Super Sport
1. Keep trying different seats/positions until it is no longer a problem.
2. If you feel it getting numb while riding, stand up and get your weight off the seat.
3. Do not accept it as "normal." Keep working at it until it goes away, or long term problems may result.
2. If you feel it getting numb while riding, stand up and get your weight off the seat.
3. Do not accept it as "normal." Keep working at it until it goes away, or long term problems may result.
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#14
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Unlike diamond frame bikes, there are a number of different recumbent designs. They all ride quite differently, and they each have their own unique set of benefits and issues. My advice is always to plan on spending a day at a recumbent specialty dealer so that you can look at, discuss and maybe test ride several different ones.
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My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
#15
Seat Sniffer


Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,900
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From: SoCal
Bikes: Serotta Legend Ti; 2006 Schwinn Fastback Pro and 1996 Colnago Decor Super C96; 2003 Univega Alpina 700; 2000 Schwinn Super Sport
^ Forgot to mention that! If all else fails, go recumbent!
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#16
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,806
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From: Tucson Az
Bikes: 2015 Ridley Fenix, 1983 Team Fuji, 2019 Marin Nail Trail 6
A saddle with a cutout solved my issues. Based on the reviews, I tried a Forte Pro SL from Performance Bike and all has been well.
BTW, it was somewhat alarming to me the first time I stood there to go, and didn't feel anything yet knew I was going.
BTW, it was somewhat alarming to me the first time I stood there to go, and didn't feel anything yet knew I was going.
#17
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Eugene, Oregon
Those delicate nerves and blood vessels located behind your "tool" shouldn't be squished under your full body load. The blood vessels can actually become permanently compressed with unfortunate consequences.
#18
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 557
Likes: 4
Anyone have thoughts on how much of a difference on road vs. hybrid comes into play here? You're stretched more on a road bike with more weight on shoulders/hands compared to the upright sitting position of a hybrid. I wonder if it's worth it to stay stretched out?
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Eugene, Oregon
I think this is a misconception. We shouldn't be riding like sacks of potatoes. We have a skeletal-muscular structure and should use it. When riding a road bike, one should use core muscles to avoid laying all one's upper body weight onto one's hands.
#20
just another gosling


Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 20,553
Likes: 2,662
From: Everett, WA
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
O.K. just went around the block with the front of the seat down a few degrees. Didn't' like it. It felt like I was sliding forward off the seat a little. Now I have the seat perfectly level and it feels good. Not sure where I read the seat should be tilted back a little but neutral feels the best so far. Not long enough of a ride to see if the numbness returns but I can't imagine a few degrees of seat tilt will make all the difference in the world. I hope I'm wrong. My LBS where I bought this saddle said I could return it and try a different one if I wanted. What does he do with returned saddles? He can't sell it as "new" as I've put 100mi. on it. Sounds like a losing proposition for him and I don't think he's getting rich with the business. He's too nice of a guy. I feel like I should just out right buy another saddle so as not to take advantage. My wife is now saying I'm OCD with the bike and that I'm constantly making unnecessary adjustments. She should know me better than that. It's not right until it's right and I'll keep fiddling until I'm satisfied.
If it's a flat saddle, it's easy to get level with . . . a level. If it is curved, try it with the central area level and the back pointing up a bit. If you feel like you're falling forward, move the saddle back until you can take your hands off the bars while pedaling in your riding position without sliding forward on the saddle.
It is totally worth it to be stretched out on a road bike. It's more comfortable, more powerful, faster, and easier on the back. The reason for the standard road bike position is not style or speed particularly - it's comfort over long distances.
#21
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Given that this is the 50+ forum, we need to consider biological/medical possibilities. For example, an enlarged prostrate can be a factor here. This is common enough in older men, and affect pressure on blood vessels or nerves in the area. Of course the right saddle or addle position will help, but having someone who knows his way around the plumbing is the right place to start.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#22
aka Phil Jungels
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 8,234
Likes: 91
From: North Aurora, IL
Bikes: 08 Specialized Crosstrail Sport, 05 Sirrus Comp
#23
Senior Member




Joined: Sep 2005
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From: In the foothills of Los Angeles County
Some of us have tried many different saddles to find a good fit. Some shops have "demo" saddles you can try.
Yes, a couple degrees can make a huge difference. Yes, if the shorts are too tight that will make things worse.
Also, too much padding sucks for longer rides.
For me, a leather saddle with a small cut-out works. I hate Brooks saddles and I hate big soft saddles. Selle Italia or San Marco.
Yes, a couple degrees can make a huge difference. Yes, if the shorts are too tight that will make things worse.
Also, too much padding sucks for longer rides.
For me, a leather saddle with a small cut-out works. I hate Brooks saddles and I hate big soft saddles. Selle Italia or San Marco.
#24
Getting older and slower!
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 419
Likes: 2
From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
Bikes: Trek Domane 6 series Project One, Bike Friday Pocket Rocket, Trek XO1, Specialized Turbo Vado 6.0
Seat position is probably the most frequent cause for this numbness. Level is the most common solution. Also I agree with the cutout saddle. My saddles are all the same model and anatomically friendly.
Last edited by Cychologist; 05-01-15 at 08:00 PM.
#25
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 549
Likes: 44
From: Houston area
Bikes: Catrike 700; Bike Friday Llama single; Bike Friday Tandem Tuesday; Easy Racers Ti-Rush recumbent; Catrike Expedition; Rans Seavo tandem
On upright bikes, I have had (and continue to have) good experience with the Terry Men's Liberator saddle.
For a "never again" solution, I strongly recommend a recumbent.
Good luck.
For a "never again" solution, I strongly recommend a recumbent.
Good luck.



