Over the winter i do some major service of my bike. I checked the chain, with the Park tool, and it was under .5% wear so I reinstalled it. I've put about 500 miles on it since and a few days ago it would occasionally jump a tooth in the 4th and 5th largest cog. It was suggested that maybe it was a tight link so i checked the chain and didn't find any. So at my son's suggestion I changed the chain and .... not only is the problem resolved, it shifts so much smoother.

I'm glad that my LBS not only had it in stock, they also have a decent online presence and I got it for the online price... $45 for a Sram Red 22 chain.

I'm just going to replace the chain every winter, even if the Park tool says it's under the .5% mark.

BTW, i hung both chains from a finish nail in a ceiling joist to get the correct length to cut and the old chain was 1/3 of a link longer.

I think the Park tool is inaccurate at times and for the price I just change my chains proactively as well.

I agree that the Park tool is inaccurate. I just use a metal ruler. I also keep several spare chains on hand. With a couple of tandems, my bikes, my wife's bikes and my son's bikes, the need is frequent enough to justify having them about.

I think we have come to same conclusion in the past. The story I relate is someone who worked for me proudly presenting his chain measuring tool and telling me that my chain was well and truly shot and needed replacing. Trouble was... the chain was but weeks old and had hardly been ridden since being fitted to that bike.

The ruler is truth.

Whatever the word is, it seems like the Park tool, which I also have, isn't as reliable as good-old measuring the chain with a tape measure. From center of rivet to center of rivet should be 12 inches for 12 full links. I prefer to change it out at 1/16" of elongation.

I replace the entire drivetrain, that being the chainrings, cassette and chain at the same time. They all work and wear as a unit and replacing only one worn item will cause the new one to prematurely wear.

That can get rather expensive for the higher end drivetrains.

I've never been able to get away without doing this, except the chainrings don't seem to need replacement nearly as often as the other two. I replace the chain, it bricks the bike until I also change out the cassette.

I think the best thing for my bikes would be to replace the rider. He is beginning to get creaky and make other troubling sounds. He also shows signs of wear and is far outside of spec.

All i can say is that this rider is in better shape at 61 than at 51.

Yes it can but that comes with the territory if you want high end.

It's only necessary if you wait too long before changing the chain.

It's better to replace the chain more frequently. Shifting will be better and your cassette should last at least 3 chains. Chainrings last much longer.

Funny but I'm having exactly the same problem with the rider! My rider is well out of warranty too so there's not much I can do .

Rick / OCRR

+1

My chain rings outlast at least 4 or 5 cassettes, each of which last for about 3 chains. And I let them get closer to 1/8" than 1/16. As I figure it, my chain ring lasts more than 15 times as long as someone who replaces everything at once.

How many total miles were on the chain? I replace mine every 3500 miles no matter what. I think not riding on wet roads and keeping them clean and lubed helps extend chain life.

The would get cost prohibitive as I ride about 10,000 miles a year.

Gotta love it, man!

I use a tape measure. Why buy "Park" when unnecessary? And just because it has a blue handle it doesnt mean it's the best.
Do you want accurate? Start with a 6" dial caliper. If you keep the chains fairly fresh through the seasons you wont need to replace FW/Cassette/Chainrings as much.

I thought the title of this thread was "Learned not to be cheap".

There is no need to measure the chain length if you replace it every year . My Campagnolo Chorus chain costs $40.0 from UK retailers . Indeed , why go cheap on it when you don't have to at this price . I also replace the whole cassette after 3 chains .

Coincidentally I was thinking it's new chain time on Wednesday's ride. I can hear the chain just a bit recently, especially when it's in any gear combo that presents a slight angle. Not bad, just not silent anymore.

Checked my ride data, looks like 1,500 miles since my last chain replacement back in the late fall/early winter.

Seems a bit early but I do ride gravel and gritty chip seal and rural routes about half the time, so maybe 1,500 miles is reasonable for that mix.

My '92 bike has an older but still replaceable Shimano Hyperglide cassette, so I'm not too worried about that. But the triple chain ring is an Exage aluminum 30/40/50. Probably harder to find and more expensive. Better to replace the chain earlier.

If it is more than an 1/8" in a foot replace it.

Are you raising a new problem: chain shrinkage?

I agree. It goes hand-in-glove with the title to this thread