The Eastern Sierra Double Century (ESD) is probably my favorite ride ever. It has outstanding scenery, and the weather is typically ideal, as you start off at lower elevation at the start (so it is not to cold at the start), head up to higher elevations as it heats up in the lower valleys, and then descend back down late in the day.

On paper, it's not particularly difficult as DCs go, but it is a bit deceiving, as most of the ride is at 7000+ feet, and that does make a difference, particularly when it is dry. Dehydration can and does sneak up on people.

I hadn't done a lot of long rides in a good long time, the last one being the 2022 ESD. I do 20-30 miles with 2000 feet of climbing most every day, but would that be enough?

The ride starts out in Bishop and most start at 5AM ... just before sunup. The temps are typically in the mid 50s, and you only need a light for the first 1/2 hour or so.


Pre-Ride dinner at the Pizza Factory


Crowd at the start


The ride tools around the cool and empty meadows of the Owens Valley, and it's a great warm up. Eventually, you circle back to US395 and head up the alluvial fans to the base of the Sierra. The great thing is that the dawning sunlight is typically just kissing the Sierra right in front of you.

After the first rest stop, you start ascending the Sherwin Grade. This climb is steep in sections (>9%) and is unrelenting. It's pretty typical to have a light headwind through here, as the colder air at the higher altitudes spills down the canyon and to the valley below. But today, we had some pretty stiff headwinds (15-20 MPH), and they sure did not make the climb any easier. But the real concern was whether we would be facing headwinds all the way up to Lee Vining, 100 miles distant. Oy, that would suck. Or blow. lol


Starting up the Grade

Lucky for us, there were no significant headwinds at the top! Phew.


The False Summit

After heading through the false summit and Rock Creek Canyon, we slipped by Tom's Place and took Old 395 through the Long Valley, by the beloved Little Green Church, to the bottom of Highway 203.

Oy, I do not like the climb up Highway 203 to Mammoth Lakes. It is perennially headwindy (and it was this morning), has significant traffic, and ... well ... I dunno why I do not like it. I just don't.

Once you pass through the Village at Mammoth Lakes, there is another short climb, and then down the Mammoth "Scenic Loop." I put that in quotes because it is not particularly scenic. It was built probably 30 years ago after an earthquake revealed that they needed an alternate (escape) route. Mammoth is essentially a dormant volcano, and people get nervous about such things.

In any case, the descent back down to US 395 is very sweet.

From there, it is a short climb to the second rest stop. At this point, I'm feeling OK, but a little beat up.

The next climb is up Deadman Pass. It is only 1000 feet or so, but at the altitude, feels like more. Deadman Pass is named for a nearby creek. The creek got its name for a man found murdered and scalped, floating in the creek. It seems that a local fraudster had advertised in San Francisco that he had discovered some gold ore and needed a grubstake investor. Someone responded, and foolishly, brought all his cash with him. That was the person found in the creek, scalped to infer that the local Paiute were responsible. No one was fooled, but the murderer was never caught ... he soon disappeared with the money.

Over Deadman Pass a short distance, and you get to the southern terminus of the June Lake Loop. THIS is the highlight of the ride. It is mostly downhill, and you fly past soaring peaks, waterfalls, and through the aspens. Very sweet.


The June Lake Loop. That is Carson Peak back there, and June Lake in the foreground.


After the June Lake Loop, we head north on US395 for lunch at a local park in Lee Vining.

Oy, I was ready for a rest. I got of the bike like the old man that I am and could almost hear my bones creaking as I straightened up. The usual hotfoot issues had reared their ugly head, so I took my shoes off to give the dogs a rest.

Lunch was Costco sandwiches (quite good), chips, sodas, and the like. It is a good idea on doubles to eat whenever you can, as you never know when your appetite will disappear. I ate as much as I could.

After lunch, we rode past the Yosemite cutoff and headed east on Highway 120. We now had a pretty rippin tailwind, so we flew through here pretty rapidly. That was good, as it gave me a chance for a little rest before hitting the final big climb of the day.

Sagehen is a terraced climb. It's not that steep bottom to top, but there are some steep little kickers. By the time I got to the top, I was glad to get there, but felt better than expected.


Half way up Sagehen, looking back towards Mono Lake


At the top of Sagehen ... looking back towards the Sierra.

Oy ... and the ride from the top of Sagehen. It is mostly downhill, but with a few up sections. And with a good tailwind (which we had that day), you can power up on those sections. I hit something like 46 MPH on the downhills.

The road drops you into Adobe Meadows. A place with an old abandoned stage stop, and wild horses. We didn't see any this time, they are quite the sight when they are there. The area is also known for huge whoop-de-doos .... and they are steep!


Adobe Meadows. That is Montgomery Peak back there.

It is also known for being headwindy, but today, we had tailwinds! I pretty much flew through here. I felt as good or better than I had all day.

Up a short little kicker:


The kicker at Black Divide


The View from Black Divide. Those mountains are not as far away as they appear. This was taken the day before the ride.

And now the downhill to Benton. Oy, this is a beautiful downhill. You are up on a hill at perhaps 5500-6000 feet elevation, looking at 14000 foot peaks only a few miles away across a deep valley. Trust me, this is beautiful,

After a short rest, we had before us the last 40 miles or so of the ride. This section is generally downhill or flat, and generally windy. Sometimes, it is a headwind, and sometimes, a tailwind. When it is a headwind, people team up in pacelines go get through. But today, we had a big crosswind that also had a little tailwind component to it, so even with just Ron and myself, we made pretty good time getting to Benton. I love this section too ...watching the sun get low on the horizon, shedding light on the White Mountains looming over our left shoulder.

We rolled back into Bishop just before sundown. I was pretty beat up, but not too beat up for a BBQ sammy at the end.

Great day! I was exhausted at the end, but recovered nicely the next morning and went fishing.

Nice report! So, no cramps or problems even with the lack of long rides?

I’ve been wanting to attempt a double for a couple years now and that one is at the top of the list. The wife and I did Onion Valley Road and Horseshoe Meadows Road back in October, it was spectacular.

outstanding !

Very Impressive ! Not sure I could do that. My Butt would fall off, just after lunch time.... LOL!
I have a 6ish Hour rear end... LOL!
Ride On
Yuri

I recommend it! It is not the easiest double, but it isn't the hardest either. The route is about perfect. You can self support for the first 100 miles, as there are plenty of restaurants and stores along the way. After lunch, the section along Highway 120 up Sagehen and through Adobe Meadows has nothing whatsoever (no water, no food, and no people). That is one of the most uninhabited parts of California (probably why you'll often see wild horses and burros there). Pretty much zero traffic too. There is traffic along US395, but the shoulder is wide. And you really don't spend hardly any time on it ... most of the route is on secondary roads.

The weather this time of year is also typically ideal. It is hot at the start and end in Bishop, but since you leave at 5AM, it is actually cool, and it is reasonably comfortable on the trip back at about 7-8 PM. By the time it heats up in the valley, you're at 7000-8000 feet, where it is much cooler.

The roads are in good shape and the scenery is truly awesome. IMHO, it is the most beautiful route of any double century ... certainly any I have done.

I say go for it next year!

Looks like a fantastic ride and your photos are beautiful. I love that part of the country. I first rode my bike there (in the Westgard Pass area of the White Mountains) in 1976 while I was taking UC Berkeley's undergrad advanced field geology class. Later, I did my Ph.D. research in the range east of the Whites and I subsequently taught a couple of years of UCLA's undergrad advanced field geology class where we were based in Bishop's White Mountain Research Station...I did a lot of riding in that area. I've also ridden from Barcroft Station both up to White Mountain Peak and down to Bishop via Silver Canyon. The only double century I've done is the Davis DC. Perhaps my next one should be this one.

White Mountain Peak

White Mountain Peak, Sierra Nevada in background

Flying down the White Mountains towards the Sierra Nevada

Davester returning from White Mountain Peak

Wonder write-up of your adventure. Love the pics and the blow-by-blow description. Well done

I'd recommend it!

Oy, riding an MTB up to the top of White Mountain would be a killer for me. I hiked to the top of Whitney years ago, and I was so oxygen deprived, I practically crawled to the top. That last 1000 feet of elevation was tough!

It was a bit of a killer, but bear in mind that we started at around 11,500 feet so it was only about a 3,000 feet of climbing (but with no air!). Also, the last 1/2 mile is rock scrambling not suitable for bikes so we ditched the bikes by the side of the trail and walked the last bit. The nice part about taking the bikes was being able to coast on the way back down. There's no coasting when you're walking! Also note that this was a warm up for Whitney. We climbed Whitney (a mere 250 feet higher) three days later but left the bikes at camp for obvious reasons. .

Thanks, sincerely for making the effort to share your magnificent ride. Not as much effort as the ride itself, I'm certain.

My father rode a 50-miler in his fifties. My longest was maybe 120 miles, Tucson to Phoenix, for a charity, but I was twenty years old.

Truly impressive ride, and truly beautiful!

Great story; nice photos! Thanks for posting.

Biker395, I have to say, you are either super tough or stubborn for taking on such a Herculean ride.

The country around Bishop (Calif.) is one of the more-beautiful spots in North America, IMO. Have been to the region dozens of times. And I'm always floored with the peacefulness and the grandeur of it all. At all seasons of the year, it can be stunning. Cycling through ... even on a double century ride ... has to be a great experience, even if the elevation, humidity and climbs make it a challenge.

Images @ DuckDuckGo -- bishop Hwy 395 landscapes:

https://tinyurl.com/mr2ru8sh

Oh, it is. I first experienced it at 15 years old, going through on an extended road trip. There was a summer thunderstorm and it was just clearing out. The sage was fragrant and the views amazing. I fell in love with it then, and I remain so today (hence the moniker Biker395). Something about a sagey high desert next to mountain peaks really does it for me.

Biker395 -- I'm wondering if you've had the opportunity this past autumn to get back up there, again, for some rides. As the summer season fades, there's a wonderful quality to the light that starts to become the norm, particularly on cooler, crisp mornings. That amazing deeper blue to the sky, the austere landscape (as the plants slow down or 'die' back), etc.

Got any new pics, by the way? Can't get enough of that region.

Awwe. Thanks!

I missed the fall colors again this year! I was traveling in Greece when they were at their peak, but was going to head up for the finale. But I got COVID on the plane ride home, and that was that.

I am going to try to get up there for some skiing soon ... after the holidays.

I dunno if I've posted this one, but it's an average morning in the Long Valley. So peaceful.

Love that area. I did two Centuries (LA Wheelman) in my teens, but on flat ground. Both were done with my Stepdad and on the second one he did a triple @ 50 years old!

Ah ... that would be the Grand Tour! I've done the triple a few times ... as crazy as it sounds, it's not terrible if you can stay awake so late in the evening.

Bummer on the Covid. You and me both. First time, for me. Wasn't much to speak of, but it made a chest cold hang around for countless weeks. Dragging, no energy, lots of sleep. Blech.

Yeah, the Long Valley from Crowley Lake up to June Lake, roughly, is spectacular. Like it in the springtime when everything's so unspeakably green. But when autumn hits and the colors of the meadows and grasslands change, as you say ... it's so peaceful. Incomparable.

I haven't done anywhere near enough bushwackin' along the dirt roads and trails in the region. What an amazing "gravel" bike tour it must make, at the right time of year. Had a buddy about 40yrs back who often headed up to Crowley and some nearby "high country" lakes for his fishing. Was always his favorite spot.

It's that sort of place during that time of year that prompts people to speak of "God's Country." No doubt.

I am not much of a gravel rider, but there ARE a lot of Forest Service roads out there that are perfect for gravel riding. I've explored most of them in my car and want to do the same on my MTB.

I have to say that I really enjoy your ride reports and the stunning scenery around your area. I have never ridden it but hiked and toured around that area and the south-west a few times twenty years ago with an old school friend before I returned to cycling after retiring. Hwy395 from Death Valley to Yosemite was beautiful and we had a great time hiking in the hills above Lone Pine.
At the moment the winter weather in the UK is dull and depressing, and I am a bit down just starting my treatment for prostate cancer and not riding for the past few weeks, and your pics and reports brighten things up a bit in anticipation of the riding I shall get back to in the spring and summer around Wales and hopefully Majorca.
This is a pic taken on one of my favourite rides in the Brecon Beacons at the end of the summer. Not as big as the hills around 395 but enough for me.

^ Beautiful photograph, there, by the way. That's pretty much how I've always viewed the place. Mountains everywhere, in the distance. Rugged, and "sagey" as you put it, But always beautiful. And peaceful. I'm sure it scared the pants off all the first-timers who came in wagons, once realizing what a tough trek facing them over the Sierras. Good thing we've got the roads and trails. Hard-won things, those.

Wondering how all the rain and snow will be impacting things this coming year.

I'm guessing the place will be blooming up a storm, so to speak. All sorts of growth that's been atypical this past 20+ years of drought or near-drought. Ought to be amazing landscape visuals, I'd think.

Biker395 -- Got plans to do this ride again, this year? Or to head up there now and then for weekend jaunts?

Been a handful of years since I was in the area. It's time for me to make the trek. Perhaps early-summer, this year, would be good. Kind of a Goldilocks time of year. Gotta love the mountainous high desert in all its guises.

Your photographic eye and camera skills are unparalleled. I always look forward to your shots.

OTOH, mine usually look like this:

Yea, I think I am in for next year. I really hate to miss it, and it is always a great adventure.

There is a good chance I'll be riding up there before then (the ESD is typically the weekend after Memorial Day). I'll try to give some notice so you can come up and join us.