It must be Digital Gee's influence.....
#1
Thread Starter
Let's do a Century
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,319
Likes: 883
From: North Carolina
Bikes: Cervelo R3 Disc, Pinarello Prince/Campy SR; Cervelo R3/Sram Red; Trek 5900/Duraace, Lynskey GR260 Ultegra
It must be Digital Gee's influence.....
I've always been pretty handy with mechanical things and can usually fix anything. Okay, I'm an engineer and I even enjoy taking stuff apart to see how it works.
I had 9000 miles on my chain and cassette and my chain checker finally indicated that the chain had sufficient stretch to where it was time to replace it. It is a Shimano chain and it should be a very simple task-just a matter of pushing out a pin on the old chain, shortening the new chain to the proper length, threading it through the derailleur and inserting a pin to connect the links. Maybe a 10 min job, tops.
Well, I did all that and everything checked out fine. On my first ride with the new chain for some reason I got a twist in one of the links. So I replaced a section of 4 links to remove the twisted link. I used 4 links as that is what I had left over from shortening the new chain to begin with. After doing that I took off to ride on a gorgeous day but the chain would not cooperate. One of the links was now "sticking/not bending easily" making the bike bascially unrideable.
At this point I made the executive decision that the new chain was cursed and took my bike to the LBS. I told them it was a new chain but to take it off, grind it up and put a new chain on my bike.
Now I'm thinking this 50+ stuff is catching up with me or maybe it's just I'm gravitating to Gary's level.......
I guess the real test will come the next time I have to fix a flat!!
I had 9000 miles on my chain and cassette and my chain checker finally indicated that the chain had sufficient stretch to where it was time to replace it. It is a Shimano chain and it should be a very simple task-just a matter of pushing out a pin on the old chain, shortening the new chain to the proper length, threading it through the derailleur and inserting a pin to connect the links. Maybe a 10 min job, tops.
Well, I did all that and everything checked out fine. On my first ride with the new chain for some reason I got a twist in one of the links. So I replaced a section of 4 links to remove the twisted link. I used 4 links as that is what I had left over from shortening the new chain to begin with. After doing that I took off to ride on a gorgeous day but the chain would not cooperate. One of the links was now "sticking/not bending easily" making the bike bascially unrideable.
At this point I made the executive decision that the new chain was cursed and took my bike to the LBS. I told them it was a new chain but to take it off, grind it up and put a new chain on my bike.
Now I'm thinking this 50+ stuff is catching up with me or maybe it's just I'm gravitating to Gary's level.......
I guess the real test will come the next time I have to fix a flat!!
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Eastern PA
Bikes: Croll 531c/Campagnolo and Schwinn City Bike
I've had this happen. What worked (for me, at least) was to apply lateral presure on the newly connected link. Such as:
1. hold the chain with your hands wrapped around it, and both of your thumbs on each side of the newly inserted rivet. Now pull gently toward you with both hands, while at the same time, pressing away from you with your thumbs.
2. Do the same thing to the other side of the chain, only opposite in action: push AWAY from you with your hands, and press TOWARD you with your index fingers by the rivet.
Test the link to see how smooth the result is. If it's still tight, repeat both steps with just a little more pressure. Check again. The link should now have the same smooth motion as the others.
1. hold the chain with your hands wrapped around it, and both of your thumbs on each side of the newly inserted rivet. Now pull gently toward you with both hands, while at the same time, pressing away from you with your thumbs.
2. Do the same thing to the other side of the chain, only opposite in action: push AWAY from you with your hands, and press TOWARD you with your index fingers by the rivet.
Test the link to see how smooth the result is. If it's still tight, repeat both steps with just a little more pressure. Check again. The link should now have the same smooth motion as the others.
Last edited by oldcrank; 12-07-05 at 09:16 PM.
#3
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 12,546
Likes: 797
From: Middle of da Mitten
Bikes: Trek 7500, RANS V-Rex, Optima Baron, Velokraft NoCom, M-5 Carbon Highracer, Catrike Speed
OldCrank's got it right. I always seem to create a stiff link where I push in the pin. It's easy enough to fix - as OC sez, just flex the chain a few times laterally. Or, stick a small screwdriver in between the outer plates that are tight and gently twist to open them a hair. I use the chain tool to free up the link (the approved method
but it seems most people don't know how and the other methods, while not as accurate, are quicker.
but it seems most people don't know how and the other methods, while not as accurate, are quicker.
#4
I need more cowbell.
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 8,182
Likes: 0
From: Reno, Nevada
Bikes: 2015 Specialized Sirrus Elite
Originally Posted by jppe
Now I'm thinking this 50+ stuff is catching up with me or maybe it's just I'm gravitating to Gary's level.......
I guess the real test will come the next time I have to fix a flat!!
I guess the real test will come the next time I have to fix a flat!!
__________________
2015 Sirrus Elite
Proud member of the original Club Tombay
2015 Sirrus Elite
Proud member of the original Club Tombay
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,082
Likes: 0
From: Utah
Bikes: Trek, Cannondale Tandem, Surly LHT
Both above guys are correct. It almost always happens when I put a chain together and normally I just grab that old snake and choke it until she frees up (as described above). Also, you know what? Those extra tabs on your chain tool are designed to resolve a sticky link problem. If you look at the tool and study it for awhile, you can figure out how you can spread out the side plates that little bit, just enough to free things up. OHB
#6
Elite Fred

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 10,953
Likes: 44
From: Edge City
Bikes: 2009 Spooky (cracked frame), 2006 Curtlo, 2002 Lemond (current race bike) Zurich, 1987 Serotta Colorado, 1986 Cannondale for commuting, a 1984 Cannondale on loan to my son
Shimano chains are a PITA to get back together correctly. I like SRAM chains with Powerlinks. I've never had a problem with them.
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 0
From: North Central Massachusetts
Bikes: Cannondale R600
Originally Posted by DnvrFox
9,000 miles!!





