Ask your dumb question here...
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Originally Posted by Big Paulie
I used the seat tube mounts to hold a water bottle filled with various tools and stuff I rarely use, but need to have with me. It makes my saddle pack roomier.
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Originally Posted by DnvrFox
I carry a trailer for my tools. It makes the saddle pack and the water bottle under the seat tube roomier.
#79
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Originally Posted by dauphin
Wow, I've never seen a bike loaded with three water bottles.
I feel that if you require this amount of water you ought to do a Landis and have a support car passing bottles every 5 minutes or so.
Edit- I have just checked my Compact Bianchi and there is only one bottle mount- No wonder I have to stop so many times for coffee. Tandem makes up fot it though as there are 4 on this thing- 4th one, that I forgot about, is right in the firing line of all the crud from the front wheel so It has never been used. Just like the position as on the touring bikes.
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How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
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Last edited by stapfam; 07-23-06 at 01:30 PM.
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Originally Posted by dauphin
Ah, so google found a pic of one for me...I agree Stapfam seems like lots of crud would hit there.
Having used such a set up on long tours, I can tell you that lots of crud does get on the bottle. You learn quickly to transfer the water into a cleaner bottle, and since it's not a race, stopping to do so is no big deal.
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Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
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Originally Posted by dauphin
Time for my dumb question of the day. I have a tub of Schwinn "Racing Grease". It's kind of dark reddish in color. Says it's great for bearings, bolts, seat posts and more. How would you use it on bearings? Where are the dang bearings? Sometimes I have trouble getting my bearings... What the heck is this "racing grease" really used for? Ok, ok...maybe that's more than one question....
"Racing grease" is used by "Grease Racers." These are competitions to see which grease can slide down a sloping board most quickly. The winner gets a free trip to the Bering Sea to get some new bearings.
Any more questions?
#82
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Originally Posted by dauphin
Time for my dumb question of the day. I have a tub of Schwinn "Racing Grease". It's kind of dark reddish in color. Says it's great for bearings, bolts, seat posts and more. How would you use it on bearings? Where are the dang bearings? Sometimes I have trouble getting my bearings... What the heck is this "racing grease" really used for? Ok, ok...maybe that's more than one question....
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Why do they call it chainrings up front, but cogs in the rear?
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A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
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A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
#84
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Originally Posted by NOS88
Why do they call it chainrings up front, but cogs in the rear?
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Keep the chain tight!
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Originally Posted by dauphin
How can geometry be "aggressive" and why didn't my ninth grade teacher explain this to me?
Pilots, Sequoias and such are not aggressive geometry. Consider them "sensible" geometry. Thought "boring" by some, but then how boring is a body petrified and convoluted by an extreme biking position.
Seriously-- aggressive bikes can be lotsa fun to ride-- especially in a group. They accelerate, swoop and swerve, and respond to the slightest steering input from your butt down through the saddle. But, then again, they also send lotsa input back up to your butt and hands from any bumps or buzz in the road.
But, all I really know about is steel....the new wunder-materials may have their own variables.
#86
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Okay Dauphin;
You need to go here https://www.sheldonbrown.com/glossary.html and commit it all to memory. Then come back and ask more questions.
You need to go here https://www.sheldonbrown.com/glossary.html and commit it all to memory. Then come back and ask more questions.
#88
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Originally Posted by MisterJ
This is like a Marx Brothers movie.
Hail Freedonia!
Hail Freedonia!
#90
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Originally Posted by dauphin
all of my questions have now been answered.
What must I do to complete the ultimate ride? And while we're at it, what is the ultimate ride?
... Grasshopper
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Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
#91
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Since I trust you guys....
Ok. I see these numbers describing cranksets... What do they mean? What makes one better than another?
52Ax42Ax30A roubaix
30/39/50T bianchi
50x39x30T sequoia
50/39/30T felt
52/39/30 trek pilot 2.1
I'm guessing the three in the middle are the same...
52Ax42Ax30A roubaix
30/39/50T bianchi
50x39x30T sequoia
50/39/30T felt
52/39/30 trek pilot 2.1
I'm guessing the three in the middle are the same...
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#92
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The numbers are the number of teeth in each front chainwheel. I don't know why Bianchi lists them in the opposite order.
To find which one is better, you would also have to know the tooth count for the rear sprockets, and compare each of the combinations. What most people look for is combos that give uniform spacing and minimize duplication of ratios while also minimizing how many times you have to shift from one front chainwheel to another. Many bikes have three "ranges" with some overlap for each of the front combinationss, so you can leave the front deraileur set to the center chainwheel and just shift the rear deraileur except for climbing or downhills where you need the extra power or speed.
There have been whole books written on this subject. Some people have been known to disassemble cassettes to change individual cogs and change chainwheels, all in search of the "perfect" setup.
To find which one is better, you would also have to know the tooth count for the rear sprockets, and compare each of the combinations. What most people look for is combos that give uniform spacing and minimize duplication of ratios while also minimizing how many times you have to shift from one front chainwheel to another. Many bikes have three "ranges" with some overlap for each of the front combinationss, so you can leave the front deraileur set to the center chainwheel and just shift the rear deraileur except for climbing or downhills where you need the extra power or speed.
There have been whole books written on this subject. Some people have been known to disassemble cassettes to change individual cogs and change chainwheels, all in search of the "perfect" setup.
Last edited by Pompiere; 07-27-06 at 05:59 AM.
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Originally Posted by DnvrFox
I carry a trailer for my tools. It makes the saddle pack and the water bottle under the seat tube roomier.
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Originally Posted by gear
you must carry a lot of tools with you to warrent a trailer. do you carry a welding machine and a parts rinsing sink in the trailer?
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and you thought I was through asking dumb questions....
Can someone tell me what this logo represents?
Can someone tell me what this logo represents?
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Last edited by dauphin; 08-28-07 at 11:09 AM.
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Originally Posted by dauphin
and you thought I was through asking dumb questions....
Can someone tell me what this logo represents?
Can someone tell me what this logo represents?
Regarding Pompiere above on gears....there is NO perfect gearing set up despite some riders' obsession with finding it. To get something, you must give something else. Complicated shifting patterns, big jumps between gears, not enough range, much redundancy, etc. Knowing your gear inches in your head is the first step to mastering you cogset...then you can set up a shifting pattern between rings if you really want to maximize your gear jumps. On the other hand, triples and compacts allow you a ring to climb on, a ring to bail out on, a ring to cruise on, a ring for tailwinds and descents, etc.
If your terrain is varied, you might want to change cassettes depending on the kind of demands your ride will have. So much easier these days with lockrings instead of busting a gut to get a freewheel off. Big variations in cassette may also require a chain substitution as well-- to adjust optimally for length needed.
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Originally Posted by CrossChain
If you have to ask, you can't afford to spend the money to acquire that right to this emblem/status. Just like me.
Regarding Pompiere above on gears....there is NO perfect gearing set up despite some riders' obsession with finding it. To get something, you must give something else. Complicated shifting patterns, big jumps between gears, not enough range, much redundancy, etc. Knowing your gear inches in your head is the first step to mastering you cogset...then you can set up a shifting pattern between rings if you really want to maximize your gear jumps. On the other hand, triples and compacts allow you a ring to climb on, a ring to bail out on, a ring to cruise on, a ring for tailwinds and descents, etc.
If your terrain is varied, you might want to change cassettes depending on the kind of demands your ride will have. So much easier these days with lockrings instead of busting a gut to get a freewheel off. Big variations in cassette may also require a chain substitution as well-- to adjust optimally for length needed.
Regarding Pompiere above on gears....there is NO perfect gearing set up despite some riders' obsession with finding it. To get something, you must give something else. Complicated shifting patterns, big jumps between gears, not enough range, much redundancy, etc. Knowing your gear inches in your head is the first step to mastering you cogset...then you can set up a shifting pattern between rings if you really want to maximize your gear jumps. On the other hand, triples and compacts allow you a ring to climb on, a ring to bail out on, a ring to cruise on, a ring for tailwinds and descents, etc.
If your terrain is varied, you might want to change cassettes depending on the kind of demands your ride will have. So much easier these days with lockrings instead of busting a gut to get a freewheel off. Big variations in cassette may also require a chain substitution as well-- to adjust optimally for length needed.
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OCP - Obsessive Compulsive Poseur. The Obsessive Compulsive Poseur (or Poser) is the cyclist who shows extreme concern about his or her appearance. The bike is perpetually shiny and squeak free. The kit is all color coordinated -- down to the shoes and socks and up to the shades and helmet. If he owns multiple bikes, he has the kit to match each bike, including the gloves, jersey and shorts. He folds up the hem of his shorts so people can see the brand.
Does this have a connection to....
Does this have a connection to....
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Last edited by dauphin; 08-28-07 at 11:09 AM.
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Originally Posted by dauphin
You lost me after...."Just like me. "
As long as you and Seafoam are blasting up those mountains, you needn't worry about "gearhead" talk-- you two must be doin' something right.
Olde days riders, particularly tourists, used to get obsessed with gearing configurations....probably because they were schlepping some ungodly loads up some obscene climbs with a 5 speed freewheel in back. Nowadays, with 10 speeds and mtn. bike drivetrains (a la jppe's XT w/30 tooth cog but plenty of middle gears as well) gearing choices aren't quite so critical.
Your emblem stands, I believe, for OCP-- Obsessive Compulsive Poseur. Someone who is driven like a rutting stag to have the latest and coolest gear. Nothing is more triumphant than when a BF type Fred beats an OCP. You and Seafoam look for 'em out there and pick 'em off.
#100
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Due to Seafoam's "cracked frame" we rented her a monster Specialized Expedition and took off for a 13 mile ride! I think it was more of a workout for her!
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