No expert here, but I recall an article in Bicycling some years ago...one of their editors, an accomplished TransAm rider, soaked his Brooks leather in a bucket of motor oil.

If Neatsfoot works for you...great. If not, you can toss the saddle on the pile of other cycling gizmos and practices we've all tried and learned better from.

I'm no expert, but I figure the people who make the saddles are.
From the Brooks website:
Breaking-in a BROOKS saddle
There are many facts and fables on the internet as to how best treat a leather saddle but the concise answer is that the leather should never become soft, more so it should form to your anatomy. Trying to accelerate the breaking in period with use of substitute oils and waxes will cause the leather to soften and essentially become a hammock. Whilst some argue this is comfortable, they have missed the philosophy behind the use of leather.
https://www.brookssaddles.com/popups/...uti.html#treat

I have the utmost respect for Sheldon Brown and I use his website often for information and advice. But I have to disagree with his Brooks break-in advice.

Technically, I believe Sheldon's site only recommends soaking for the extra thick leather saddles, like the Brooks Professional. Otherwise he recommends the "pour and rub" technique.

As BluesDawg states, there are a lot of pro-Brooks cyclists who do not agree with Sheldon on his heavy use of oils. And, it should be noted, that Brooks disagrees too.

I've read reports by people here on BF where they have ruined Brooks saddles by using too much oil / proofhide.

I don't own a Brooks, but if I had your B17 and it was already oil soaked, I would be very careful with it. I'd try to find a way to get some of that oil out.

I find Neetsfoot oil a bit too thin for my tastes although many use it.I use Mink Oil,a paste that comes in a shoe polish can.You sort of rub it in to the leather and it seldom leaves any residue.Treat the seat as you would any leather coat.I bet Stepfan would be a good consultant on weatherproofing leather due to his climate and he seems to go out in all conditions.

That bit on throwing the seat in old motor oil has possibilities on long trips so the azz does not run out of gazz.

I already tried to get George to let go of one of his Brooks saddles and he stubbornly insisted that the ride was getting more comfortable. I think he just likes the look of the Brooks and will ride it even it kills him.

(George, when you read this, pls understand I'm kidding... ) If I had the bucks, I'd order one tomorrow...

OK. Thanks for the information.

I painted on the oil with a brush, top and bottom. This is not as agressive as soaking the saddle but more than just rubbing the oil on. I followed the best advice I could find at the time and did not make the decision lightly. I was aware of Brooks' advice but wrote it up to them wanting to sell their product. I guess you make your choices and take your chances.

I was ragging about my Brooks taking so long to break in (1000 miles) but I can't believe it, I think it has finally started breaking me in. What a way to die.

Well, well, well. George's perseverance may pay off! You've certainly earned a reward for staying on an uncomfortable saddle for 1000 miles.

As to the Brooks break-in, most people will tell you to put nothing on the saddle. Just ride it. Rub in a little proofhide to weather protect it.

Here's what one of my LBS says about them: https://www.yellowjersey.org/brooks3.html

OK, OK........while, in fact, it was true that the Bicycling editor recommended a motor oil soak, I only offered it up here as part of the growing anti-Brooks insurgency. Every Brooks ruined, tossed, or rejected gives an Italian plastic base seat angel his/her wings. George's behind is apparently conforming to his Brooks saddle-- hope it doesn't make him walk funny.

Walk funny, I can walk over fire plugs. Maybe that's why my knee hurts.

Yup......after riding my Brooks I'd walk around like an old bowlegged cowpoke who'd been poked too hard.

I'm thinking about trying trekking bars next. That should be a hoot.

George, you probably read OldHammerBoy's post on his long upcoming tour (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=273928).....using trekking bars. They might be a very cool, effective choice for you.

The OP is correct about saddle choice being a personal thing. That said, I've tried several and keep coming back to Selle for road. I was using a Specialized, Body Geometry for MTB but just changed to a Terry. I have a Selle Italia Tri-Matic 2 on the C'dale roadie and a Selle San Marco Aero on the Bianchi roadie.

Found out today that saddle comfort is not just about the saddle. Trying out a Terry Fly and the thing just made my rear end suffer. Anyway went to a shorter stem for other reasons and the Terry is wonderful. Guess the slightly stretched out riding position combinded with the saddle put me in the wrong position which translated into saddle pain.

Almost goes without saying that any saddle will feel better if you come off of it regularly...try standing and pedaling some strokes to relieve the pressure. Slightly higher gears will also unweight your behind and relieve a bit of pressure.

Staying home and watching tv in the recliner is a final cure for saddle pain.

loving the fact that the saddle I ride came with my bike....wonder if anyone wants to buy that Specialized Avatar from me....

Has anyone put one of the sprung Brooks saddle on a road bike? I am thinking that the suspension effect may help lower back pain even though it will probably look weird. I'm thinking of the Champion Flyer or Champion Flyer Special. Would be interested if anyone found lower back relief from switching to one of these.

Thanks

I've used a B67 on my Trek 520. Not exactly a roadie. Wallbike will let you send it back if it doesn't work for you. The longer you use it before returning it will determine how much slack they will cut you on the refund - it's only fair. Or, if the Flyer is what you want to try, you can sell it to me if it's a no-go (depending on color - I like the honey). I'm in the market for one to use on my roadified MTB or my 520. If you go with your idea, you can PM me anytime.

On the back pain issue:
Have you considered the height of your bars relative to your existing saddle? Stem length? Some folks may disagree with Grant Peterson (Rivendell) on certain things, but I think his philosphy on bike fit is spot-on. Drops should be high enough and close enough to be used at any time for as long as you need to.

I have.

The B17 and it's cousins are usually used with the bars close to the level of the saddle. This will be helpful for you, since raising the bars will reduce back strain.

If you are a Clydesdale, get the Flyer Special. I was unimpressed with the leather on the standard Flyer.

My Flyer is about to go on what is about to become my wife's old bike.

I've never done this, but I saw a rider over the weekend with a sprung Brooks on a road bike...it looked neat!

Go for this one, the B135

I saw one on a road bike yesterday...I thought it looked hideous...but hey, if it helps your back go for it

You saw the monsterous B135 on a road bike?!?

It would almost double the weight of some road bikes!

I think I have now read of almost every conceivable way of breaking in a brooks saddle:

Brooks: Use only our Proofride, which costs $12 for a 1.3 oz tin.
Shelton Brown: Pour neatsfoot oil, etc. on and rub into both sides. Alternatively soak the saddle in it. Never allow the saddle to get wet, never allow the oil to dry out.
Transam rider?: Soak it in motor oil.
Forum poster 1: Never put anything on the saddle.
Forum poster 2: Soak the saddle in water the first time you ride it. As it dries it will conform to your butt.
Local Bike Shop Owner: (who sold me the saddle) Don't even sit on the saddle before you treat it with oil.
Forum Poster 3: Congratulations, you just ruined your saddle with oil.

Keeping with the spirit of things, I have now come up with my own method. I haven't tried it yet but that won't stop me from advising others. Send your new saddle to the local applied physics laboratory. Ask them to irradiate it using a cesium 137 source. A dose of 10 MRad should be adequate for the B17 and similar saddles, but for the thicker and recalcitrant Professional model a dosage of 20 MRad is recommended.

Seriously, I realize that all the advice has been well intended and I do appreciate your efforts.