Test Riding Cervelo Today
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I do not know if I have to give up comfort versus stiffness. Wheelsets and tire pressure can make a huge difference in comfort. I was very pleased with my LBS's work to set up the bike for me. We did it to get close. If I like it and want to pursue a bike at this price point, then we can play around with different wheelsets. My LBS has numerous demo wheelsets from deep dish carbons to the Mavics with carbon spokes that I demoed and I have my own stable of wheels. All of my wheelsets are Shimano compatible.
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I'm fascinated Hermes. Any guess as to the weight difference on the Mavic wheels versus your XXX's? And even with the sloping top tube the bike still felt very stable on fast descents as best you could tell? I didn't realize your existing bike was as heavy as it was (not that is heavy). Isn't it a blast when you can really feel the difference in weight when standing or accelerating? The bike just seems to lurch forward when you mash the pedals. When you drop 2-3 more pounds you'll be a real terror on hills and accelerating.
I'd also find that Campy would be an adjustment but I do really like the cleaner look I see on some of my buddies bikes.
Our measurements are very close to the same-our weights are the same (at least when I've ridden more), I might be an inch taller but our arm lengths are the same. It looks like my legs are 2+ inches longer though-probably why I can get away with riding a range of 58-62 frames (using Trek frames). I also like not having quite as much drop in the bar heights and for that reason a 58 would be on my bottom end of frame sizes and a 60 is probably ideal.
I will be very interested in your thoughts around the new Madone. I'm just a few more years away from getting out from under the 3 college tuitions and finding a used model in a year or so might be something for me to keep an eye on.
Like you, I really enjoy shopping around and investigating the various options.
I'd also find that Campy would be an adjustment but I do really like the cleaner look I see on some of my buddies bikes.
Our measurements are very close to the same-our weights are the same (at least when I've ridden more), I might be an inch taller but our arm lengths are the same. It looks like my legs are 2+ inches longer though-probably why I can get away with riding a range of 58-62 frames (using Trek frames). I also like not having quite as much drop in the bar heights and for that reason a 58 would be on my bottom end of frame sizes and a 60 is probably ideal.
I will be very interested in your thoughts around the new Madone. I'm just a few more years away from getting out from under the 3 college tuitions and finding a used model in a year or so might be something for me to keep an eye on.
Like you, I really enjoy shopping around and investigating the various options.
Right now, I am running Easton Tempest IIs on the Madone for the winter. The carbons are hanging around along with the Race Lites that came with the bike. A few months ago, I weighed the Madone with the Race Lites using the bathroom scale approach i.e. me and then me with bike. It was around 19 pounds +-. I did it again with the Race XXX lites and it was 17.5 +-. My 4 pounds may be overstated. Also, bike weights are always quoted without pedals and in the smallest size frame. For the Cervelo to come in at 15.2 pounds in a 58 cm frame with pedals and a heavy water bottle cage is remarkable. The frame is in the 800 gm range.
In general, racers do not like Bontrager wheelsets - to soft and not stiff enough. And the wheelsets issued to pro teams by Bontrager are different that what we get.
The main draw for me to the R3 SL frame was its claim to be stiff, light and strong (ideal for Paris Roubaix) and shock absorbing. That statement seems like it has something in it for everyone. However, testing is the way to sift through the BS.
I have a coach and go to a cycling training center. My coach says my weight is ideal right now so I will hold 168. I am putting my money into the engine right now. Bike buying is a couple of months off when the engine and riding position are tuned up a bit more. For example, my coach thinks that I may be ready for for a 53/39 double by the middle of the year. These guys are hardware agnostic and only care about hitting your numbers and doing what they say.
I really like my Madone and Trek is a great company that takes cycling very seriously as well as product quality. I will try definitely try a new one.
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Good report, the nice thing is that once you move into this class of bikes you really can't make a bad decision. All of the little nuances are icing on the cake. Light and stiff make the bike sooo responsive, I found when I got my Scott it took awhile to get use to it. While I would not say it is twitchy I would say it does not take a whole lot of input to get a response. How was the R3 in that regard? It would really look nice with a set of 404s.
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FWIW, I weighed a set of Mavic R-Sys wheels at 1400g. So they are not quite as light as Mavic says. Also, they are the least aero set of wheels on the market. I'm waiting for the new Shimano wheels to come out.
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I'm fascinated Hermes. Any guess as to the weight difference on the Mavic wheels versus your XXX's? And even with the sloping top tube the bike still felt very stable on fast descents as best you could tell? I didn't realize your existing bike was as heavy as it was (not that is heavy). Isn't it a blast when you can really feel the difference in weight when standing or accelerating? The bike just seems to lurch forward when you mash the pedals. When you drop 2-3 more pounds you'll be a real terror on hills and accelerating.
I'd also find that Campy would be an adjustment but I do really like the cleaner look I see on some of my buddies bikes.
Our measurements are very close to the same-our weights are the same (at least when I've ridden more), I might be an inch taller but our arm lengths are the same. It looks like my legs are 2+ inches longer though-probably why I can get away with riding a range of 58-62 frames (using Trek frames). I also like not having quite as much drop in the bar heights and for that reason a 58 would be on my bottom end of frame sizes and a 60 is probably ideal.
I will be very interested in your thoughts around the new Madone. I'm just a few more years away from getting out from under the 3 college tuitions and finding a used model in a year or so might be something for me to keep an eye on.
Like you, I really enjoy shopping around and investigating the various options.
I'd also find that Campy would be an adjustment but I do really like the cleaner look I see on some of my buddies bikes.
Our measurements are very close to the same-our weights are the same (at least when I've ridden more), I might be an inch taller but our arm lengths are the same. It looks like my legs are 2+ inches longer though-probably why I can get away with riding a range of 58-62 frames (using Trek frames). I also like not having quite as much drop in the bar heights and for that reason a 58 would be on my bottom end of frame sizes and a 60 is probably ideal.
I will be very interested in your thoughts around the new Madone. I'm just a few more years away from getting out from under the 3 college tuitions and finding a used model in a year or so might be something for me to keep an eye on.
Like you, I really enjoy shopping around and investigating the various options.
Acceleration was amazing both sitting and standing but I suspect standing more so because that is where the later stiffness and lower weight would really come into play.
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#33
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Nice bike Hermes! Looks like you're going to find something really nice.
And about the compact question - I've got a 53/39 with 12/25 or 12/27 cogs on my Scott CR1 SL. I've got a compact on my older, heavier Trek 2300. Seems like a nice combination for me. I always ride hills, and I ride the Scott in the summer and the Trek in the winter.
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The reality is that i should have a 56 cm. However, the seat to handlebar drop is more than I want right now or maybe never. The 58 with the shorter stem solves the problem. The shorter stem on the test ride seemed okay but I did not do any technical turns e.g. switchbacks. The tracking at high power and fast descent was perfect. I descended a hill I normally coast down and cranked up the cadence enough to keep power on through the turns. The bike was perfect. So, who knows.
I think the wheelset, tire pressure and saddle firmness may have contributed to my "harsh" assessment. Before I purchase this bike or any, I will take my Bontrager Race XXX lites to the LBS and have him put them on the bike and my saddle. I suspect that will soften up the ride a little. However, i will lose some responsiveness.
When out of the saddle climbing, I thought i died and went to heaven. It was a total rush
I think the wheelset, tire pressure and saddle firmness may have contributed to my "harsh" assessment. Before I purchase this bike or any, I will take my Bontrager Race XXX lites to the LBS and have him put them on the bike and my saddle. I suspect that will soften up the ride a little. However, i will lose some responsiveness.
When out of the saddle climbing, I thought i died and went to heaven. It was a total rush
The height of the saddle- even if it is a sloping tube- Does not point to a smaller frame being a necessity to me. Although a 56 may fit you better- will the top tube be 20mm longer? Or will a different stem length still be required on the 56 to get the fit right?
Now on the wheels- when I was checking out bikes last year- I took my good set of wheels along to check out the bike. A different set of wheels could cause a big difference in the handling that could sway your decision one way or the other.
Looks a great bike but it will be interesting to see if other bikes match up to it.
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Stem length is not as critical to handling as getting the fit right. If that requires a shorter stem on a larger bike- then so be it. I cannot understand why the stem length has to be 100mm or it won't work.
The height of the saddle- even if it is a sloping tube- Does not point to a smaller frame being a necessity to me. Although a 56 may fit you better- will the top tube be 20mm longer? Or will a different stem length still be required on the 56 to get the fit right?
Now on the wheels- when I was checking out bikes last year- I took my good set of wheels along to check out the bike. A different set of wheels could cause a big difference in the handling that could sway your decision one way or the other.
Looks a great bike but it will be interesting to see if other bikes match up to it.
The height of the saddle- even if it is a sloping tube- Does not point to a smaller frame being a necessity to me. Although a 56 may fit you better- will the top tube be 20mm longer? Or will a different stem length still be required on the 56 to get the fit right?
Now on the wheels- when I was checking out bikes last year- I took my good set of wheels along to check out the bike. A different set of wheels could cause a big difference in the handling that could sway your decision one way or the other.
Looks a great bike but it will be interesting to see if other bikes match up to it.
The 61c Cervelo's Reach is only 6mm longer than the 58. An even smaller frame, seems to me, permanently locks a rider into an aggressive riding position.
I seldom use my drops. Even so, I like set-ups that allow that option, as well as a range of hand and body positions that are above the drop-position.
Last edited by wagathon; 01-17-08 at 03:54 PM.
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I have the same experience with stem lengths--whatever works best. Additionally, the spec chart in the OP has an interesting measurement that I have not seen for other bikes: the "Reach."
The 61c Cervelo's Reach is only 6mm longer than the 58. An even smaller frame, seems to me, permanently locks a rider into an aggressive riding position.
I seldom use my drops. Even so, I like set-ups that allow that option, as well as a range of hand and body positions that are above the drop-position.
The 61c Cervelo's Reach is only 6mm longer than the 58. An even smaller frame, seems to me, permanently locks a rider into an aggressive riding position.
I seldom use my drops. Even so, I like set-ups that allow that option, as well as a range of hand and body positions that are above the drop-position.
So with the larger 61cm frame the bars will be for the same stem length and angle, 2cm higher and 6mm longer. Meanwhile the saddle relative to the seatpost clamp would have to move forward 6mm to be in the same position behind the BB. So really the rider would only have the extra 6mm of reach and 2cm of bar height different than the 58cm frame.
Now to directly compare the two frames, if we moved the bar up the 2cm on the 58 to equal the bar height of a 61cm frame with no spacers, the bar would then move 6mm closer to the saddle. So the difference between the two bikes at the same bar height would be 12mm or coincidently due to the parallel angles and similar geometry the same as the difference in top tubes of the two frames.
The larger frame would have a longer wheelbase. In the case of the R3 with similar chainstay lengths in all sizes, all that would be in the front end. How that affects handling would be dependent upon position on the bike and type of riding you do.
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Looks like there will be quite a few Cervelos on the roads of California soon. Team CSC is on the roster for the Tour of California.
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Looks like there will be quite a few Cervelos on the roads of California soon. Team CSC is on the roster for the Tour of California.
My last road race in October looked like a Cervelo convention at the start line. It was a Pro/1/2/3 race (it wasn't my original intent to be racing with these guys!) and most of the Cervelos were SLC-SLs.
Anyway, I very seriously considered the Soloist Carbon and the R3 before going with Serotta. I am still quite impressed with the design of the R3.
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Buddie of mine recently got the same bike. Full Record and Shamal wheels! Have not seen it yet but when pressed he said after everything was said and done the LBS had $7000 of his hard earned dollars.
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Scramble......scratch.......scramble.......grovel......