Looks like I'm in the market for wheels...
09-07-08, 04:30 AM
#26
gone ride'n
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Unless riders post their weight, power production, riding style, mileage, maintenance routine and road conditions, IMHO, it is impossible to know if their experience, no matter how factually presented or well intended applies to your situation.
I ride on Bontrager, Easton, Zipp and HED and produce at least as much or more power than others. I have no problems. I have friends and training partners who are much stronger than I who ride on various brand name wheelsets with no problems. Now, I know a racer who is a clyde who destroys wheels and is constantly truing them. This is one area where YMMV dramatically.
The fact that it is a rear wheel leads me to believe you may have hit a pot hole and possibly at your weight (your a big strong guy), it was more than the wheel could take. You may have to go the clydesdale wheel route which you can buy or have someone build one to spec. Did the Adams do the truing or did you take it somewhere else? Good luck.
I ride on Bontrager, Easton, Zipp and HED and produce at least as much or more power than others. I have no problems. I have friends and training partners who are much stronger than I who ride on various brand name wheelsets with no problems. Now, I know a racer who is a clyde who destroys wheels and is constantly truing them. This is one area where YMMV dramatically.
The fact that it is a rear wheel leads me to believe you may have hit a pot hole and possibly at your weight (your a big strong guy), it was more than the wheel could take. You may have to go the clydesdale wheel route which you can buy or have someone build one to spec. Did the Adams do the truing or did you take it somewhere else? Good luck.
You are absolutely right - the wheel is where the rubber meets the road and if you don't know the abuse factor you cannot assess the data. In my case last summer I was 175, this summer it's more like 165. Since I don't measure power I can't tell you but I am a B class rider working an keeping up with the A class. My rides frequently have railroad tracks to cross at speed, frost heaves/cracks and roots pushing up in the pavement and the occasional pot hole which I mostly avoid. All this on stock factory wheels with no problems so far (knock on wood). I hope this gives DG a better data point.
09-07-08, 07:09 AM
#27
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I cannot fathom how a relatively new (and according to DG whom I trust to tell the truth) unabused wheel could go so badly out of round that a qualified mechanic would say it was un-trueable. Even more, I don't understand how that same mechanic could charge $65 to attempt and fail to successfully true that wheel. At the very least, the price seems way out of line (high even for success). Just my 2cents worth.
Note: wheels can be abused more by carrying the bike on its side in the back of a car than you could believe. Banging a wheel sideways while putting it in or out is outside of the normal design parameters.
Note: wheels can be abused more by carrying the bike on its side in the back of a car than you could believe. Banging a wheel sideways while putting it in or out is outside of the normal design parameters.
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09-07-08, 07:16 AM
#28
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If you still work and don't have a lot of time dealing with custom wheel builders, then stick with what works now, what's easiest to service practically anywhere, what's going to fit your weight and riding style.
09-07-08, 07:22 AM
#29
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If it was my bike (and it's not) I'd acquire a pair of 32 spoke Ultegra/Open Pros.
They're not the lightest or the most aero or the most anything. What they are is an excellent quality, general purpose, wheelset. Even after all these years they are still the standard to which other wheels are compared.
They're not the lightest or the most aero or the most anything. What they are is an excellent quality, general purpose, wheelset. Even after all these years they are still the standard to which other wheels are compared.
09-07-08, 11:11 AM
#30
just keep riding
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I cannot fathom how a relatively new (and according to DG whom I trust to tell the truth) unabused wheel could go so badly out of round that a qualified mechanic would say it was un-trueable. Even more, I don't understand how that same mechanic could charge $65 to attempt and fail to successfully true that wheel. At the very least, the price seems way out of line (high even for success). Just my 2cents worth.
09-07-08, 12:01 PM
#31
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Did he explain WHY you needed a new wheel? Hub, cracks-in-rim, dinged sidewall, etc. Might indicate a better fix than buying a new wheel or give a clue to riding style stresses-- or, as pointed out above, could have just been one catastrophic event.
FWIW, I've used hand-built Open Pro's and machine-made OP's from Performance. The hand built held their initial truing longer and the Performance were cheaper. Otherwise, things have remained good for both over many miles.
FWIW, I've used hand-built Open Pro's and machine-made OP's from Performance. The hand built held their initial truing longer and the Performance were cheaper. Otherwise, things have remained good for both over many miles.
09-07-08, 03:11 PM
#32
gone ride'n
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So true - I wrecked a wheel like that - also could not be trued by a guy who has a rep of being one of the best wheel builder in the NE. Thats when I bought the Mavic Equipes.
09-07-08, 03:27 PM
#33
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You are correct..............I withdraw my claim of price gouging. $20 for anything mechanic related isn't bad.
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09-07-08, 08:48 PM
#34
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As I'm reading this I'm thinking that I must have incredible luck with wheels. I'm currently riding 2 different pairs, Campy Ventos, which are 24/27 f/r, and Velomax (now Easton) Tempests, which are 18/24 f/r. I crashed the Tempest front wheel hard, squarely into a car at over 20mph, and cracked the frame and fork, and my wrists, but it only broke a couple of spokes and was easy to true once I replaced them. I still ride this wheel. The rear is completely without any wobble. The Ventos are as true as the day I bought them 4 years ago now. I weigh about 160-175 depending on how much beer I'm drinking, and I ride in NYC, which has some pretty bad streets.
Maybe I'm lucky in having 2 pair of bombproof wheels.
Maybe I'm lucky in having 2 pair of bombproof wheels.
09-07-08, 11:55 PM
#35
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DG, There are several models of Roubaix and I don't know which one you have. However, I would recommend similarly to what several others have: Ultegra hubs, Velocity Aerohead rims (symetrical on the front, off/center on the rear) and DT Swiss spokes 2.0/1.5 except 2.0/1.8 on the rear drive side, 36 spokes, 3x. This gives you a strong, comfortable wheel that is easy to keep true. Also, I have found a lot fewer problems with wider tires: Either 25mm or 28mm especially in the fall and winter when there are lots of rocks and stuff on the road.
