2.25 pounds -- Noticeable?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,874
Likes: 0
From: Far, Far Northern California
Bikes: 1997 Specialized M2Pro
2.25 pounds -- Noticeable?
My old bike weighed 24.25 pounds, my new bike weighs 22 pounds. I could swear that it feels lighter and easier going up the hills.
Do you think that is real, or am I imagining it?
Note that 2.25 pounds is also the weight of one Kryptolok 2 U-lock.
Do you think that is real, or am I imagining it?
Note that 2.25 pounds is also the weight of one Kryptolok 2 U-lock.
#2
nashcommguy
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,499
Likes: 0
From: nashville, tn
Bikes: Commuters: Fuji Delray road, Fuji Discovery mtb...Touring: Softride Traveler...Road: C-dale SR300
I'd venture it's real. When one gets fine-tuned as when playing a musical instrument small changes in the action or tone are noticable to the player almost immediately. 2.25 lbs is what, a kilo almost? That's a significant amount of weight in cycling terms. Especially when trying to climb a 25% grade. 
Of course higher grade bearings, drivetrain, etc. contribute as well. And maybe you're in better shape than you were last year?

Of course higher grade bearings, drivetrain, etc. contribute as well. And maybe you're in better shape than you were last year?
#4
rebmeM roineS

Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,231
Likes: 366
From: Metro Indy, IN
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
Likely too many variables to be able to say that the better climbing is entirely due to the weight loss.
__________________
Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
#5
It's 2.5 lbs you don't have to move. Percpetions of any difference would have multiple factors involved. For example what percentage is 2.5 lbs. of weight when considering the total weight of rider and bike? If the rider and bike weight 270 lbs. I'd venture that 2.5 lbs. doesn't make much difference. If however, the combined weight was 160 lbs. it might make a very big difference.
__________________
A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
#6
Plays in traffic
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,971
Likes: 15
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 1996 Litespeed Classic, 2006 Trek Portland, 2013 Ribble Winter/Audax, 2016 Giant Talon 4
The wheelsets of two of my bikes are very light, and within a few grams of each other. Both bikes--one just under 20 pounds and the other 28 pounds--climb about the same, which is to say goat-like.
My third bike, the Portland, goes from being a reasonable although not stellar climber in the three seasons, to having to granny up even modest grades with the studded snow tires on. The three-season tires are 250 grams each, and the studs are 875 grams each--or about 2.75 pounds total difference.
Last edited by tsl; 01-29-11 at 01:46 PM.
#7
Time for a change.

Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,913
Likes: 7
From: 6 miles inland from the coast of Sussex, in the South East of England
Bikes: Dale MT2000. Bianchi FS920 Kona Explosif. Giant TCR C. Boreas Ignis. Pinarello Fp Uno.
Would agree about the wheels being a factor on hills but I have two good bikes and I have interchanged the wheels. Both sets of wheels are within 50 grammes of each other and they have the same make and size of tyres and tubes. So I can intercahnge the wheels and should not feel a difference between the wheelsets and I don't. But one bike sails up hills and the other flies--no matter what wheels are fitted.
Boreas in ride trim is 16 1/2lbs and the TCR is 17 1/2. The TCR is CF and Boreas aluminium. Both bikes are stiff- in fact the TCR is too stiff with the wrong wheels fitted. But it is the TCR that flies up the hills.
But the OCR is 20 lbs in ride trim. It has climbed mountains successfully with lightweight wheels but it was harder than my current bikes. Not a fair test though due to different gearing and fit not being the same. Get the bike fitting perfectly and it will ride everywhere better.
Boreas in ride trim is 16 1/2lbs and the TCR is 17 1/2. The TCR is CF and Boreas aluminium. Both bikes are stiff- in fact the TCR is too stiff with the wrong wheels fitted. But it is the TCR that flies up the hills.
But the OCR is 20 lbs in ride trim. It has climbed mountains successfully with lightweight wheels but it was harder than my current bikes. Not a fair test though due to different gearing and fit not being the same. Get the bike fitting perfectly and it will ride everywhere better.
__________________
How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
Spike Milligan
How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
Spike Milligan
#8
Let's do a Century
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,319
Likes: 883
From: North Carolina
Bikes: Cervelo R3 Disc, Pinarello Prince/Campy SR; Cervelo R3/Sram Red; Trek 5900/Duraace, Lynskey GR260 Ultegra
Oh yeah--it does make a difference. Try riding a 16 pounder and you'll really be able to tell how much difference it makes.
__________________
Ride your Ride!!
Ride your Ride!!
#10
Senior Member



Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 6,761
Likes: 5,380
From: Minneapolis
Bikes: 2022 Salsa Beargrease Carbon Deore 11, 2020 Salsa Warbird GRX 600, 2020 Canyon Ultimate CF SLX disc 9.0 Di2, 2020 Catrike Eola, 2016 Masi cxgr, 2011, Felt F3 Ltd, 2010 Trek 2.1, 2009 KHS Flite 220
I'm skeptical. It's not much more than the difference between a full and an empty water bottle. And weight on the wheels matters chiefly for acceleration and not significantly for climbing or other circumstances. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle...f_light_wheels
#11
The steeper the grade the more weight matters. If you're mainly riding the flats or shallow rollers, I'd say it matters very little unless you intend to out jump someone in a sprint. On the other hand, if your rides consistently climb, the longer and steeper the hill the more important weight will become. And even more so if you're power output is on the low side.
#12
gone ride'n
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,050
Likes: 2
From: Upstate NY
Bikes: Simoncini, Gary Fisher, Specialized Tarmac
Al,
weight in the wheels makes more of a difference than any place else. As you climb you are carrying that weight up the hill, lighter is better. As you pedal you are constantly changing speed in the wheels, the lower mass will make the bike respond easier to the changes. This will give you the perception of more responsiveness in the bike and that will give you the mental push to go faster up the hill. Hill climbing has a huge mental aspect to it. When the bike responds faster, you feel rewarded for your effort and you put more effort in.
weight in the wheels makes more of a difference than any place else. As you climb you are carrying that weight up the hill, lighter is better. As you pedal you are constantly changing speed in the wheels, the lower mass will make the bike respond easier to the changes. This will give you the perception of more responsiveness in the bike and that will give you the mental push to go faster up the hill. Hill climbing has a huge mental aspect to it. When the bike responds faster, you feel rewarded for your effort and you put more effort in.
#13
Riding
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,909
Likes: 0
From: Bend, Oregon
Bikes: Motobecane Fantom Cross Pro; Motobecane Nemesis Pro
You guys are making it really difficult for me to avoid spending $$$ on a new wheelset. Is there anything definitive that says a lighter wheelset is a major factor in performance on hills?
#15
Administrator

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,655
Likes: 2,703
From: Delaware shore
Bikes: Cervelo C5, Guru Photon, Waterford, Specialized CX
Every time I talk to my Cat 3 friends (I am a Cat 5 racer) they always tell me that the best way for me to upgrade my bike is to buy better wheels. Why do lightweight wheels make such a difference when climbing? Would they do more for my climbing than purchasing a lighter and stiffer front fork or better drive-train components?
— Larry N., Yuma, AZ
Ahhhh, the age-old question. The answer hinges on one word: acceleration.
Together, you and your bicycle are one big mass, and it takes a lot more energy to get that mass moving than maintaining a steady speed. As long as you are rolling along at a steady speed, wheel weight is not any more significant than the mass of your bike or body.
The crow in the omelet, however, is that the top of your wheels travel at twice the speed of the bicycle—so the energy it takes to accelerate the wheels is compounded.
Climbing wheels are built extra light because when the grade becomes steep, the bicycle slows and then accelerates slightly between each pedal stroke. The extra energy that this pulsing motion eats up can be considerable, so reducing the mass of the wheels—especially the rims and tires—can save a lot more energy than removing considerably more mass from the bicycle or rider.
As a side note: watch the climbing stages of the next Tour de France and notice how smoothly the pros pedal. This is no accident. If you can learn to climb with a smooth, circular cadence, you will eliminate wasted acceleration caused by pulsing and can use that lost energy to reach the summit.
— Larry N., Yuma, AZ
Ahhhh, the age-old question. The answer hinges on one word: acceleration.
Together, you and your bicycle are one big mass, and it takes a lot more energy to get that mass moving than maintaining a steady speed. As long as you are rolling along at a steady speed, wheel weight is not any more significant than the mass of your bike or body.
The crow in the omelet, however, is that the top of your wheels travel at twice the speed of the bicycle—so the energy it takes to accelerate the wheels is compounded.
Climbing wheels are built extra light because when the grade becomes steep, the bicycle slows and then accelerates slightly between each pedal stroke. The extra energy that this pulsing motion eats up can be considerable, so reducing the mass of the wheels—especially the rims and tires—can save a lot more energy than removing considerably more mass from the bicycle or rider.
As a side note: watch the climbing stages of the next Tour de France and notice how smoothly the pros pedal. This is no accident. If you can learn to climb with a smooth, circular cadence, you will eliminate wasted acceleration caused by pulsing and can use that lost energy to reach the summit.
#16
From JObst Brandt, noted author of "The Bicycle Wheel"
https://yarchive.net/bike/rotating_mass.html
From: jbrandt@hpl.hp.com (Jobst Brandt)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: The weight question...
Date: 26 Mar 2000 02:30:27 GMT
Andre Charlebois writes:
> The most important weight is that which is at the periphery of a
> rotating mass. In other words, pedals, rims, tires, tubes are more
> important than cogs, BB's, hubs, etc.
This is an age old fable in bicycling and useful to cite when an
excuse for some new wheels is needed. If they are aerodynamic, then
that's easy to justify even though they are heavier, but just a bit
lighter ones are less so, so out comes the rotational inertia bit.
Inertia is important for acceleration but not at constant speed where
it is probably beneficial, although I don't know of any study that has
quantified this. Francesco Moser used a large flywheel rear wheel in
his last attempt at increasing his Hour Record but the flesh wouldn't
respond. I am sure they analyzed the effects however.
Although it may seem daunting, when another rider pulls away on a hill
or in a bike race on the flat, these accelerations, except in standing
starts, are so small as to make the rotating mass story a hoax. Sure,
the mass counts twice as much when accelerating but two times zero is
still zero, and how long does a rider accelerate. Weight of bicycle
components for climbing is the main consideration, not acceleration.
The rotating mass story is a fable that sounds good and has just
enough technical truth to be one that will probably sustain itself
indefinitely. Making equipment choices by it are a matter of faith,
not fact.
Jobst Brandt jbrandt@hpl.hp.com
AND:
From: jbrandt@hpl.hp.com (Jobst Brandt)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: My proposed wheelset....opinions please.
Date: 5 Jan 2001 18:30:36 GMT
Mike Krueger writes:
>>> When one pushes down on the pedals, and the bike speeds up, that
>>> is acceleration.
>> sure. but no acceleration worth mentioning when talking about
>> inertia of rotating mass.
> OK, I'm not an engineer. Let's put this in layman's terms, so that I
> can understand it. Are you saying that it does not require more work
> to increase the rotating speed of a heavy wheel vs. a light wheel?
> (aerodynamics, tire rolling resistance, and all else being equal)
For bicyclists the main effort is overcoming wind resistance, the
second is raising weight up climbs (unless this is your specialty),
the two are distinctly different in human response as most of us
recognize. Way down the list for better bicycles lies tire rolling
resistance and friction in the chain. After that, at a great
distance, comes acceleration of changing speed... affected primarily
by the mass of the rider and bicycle. The difference of whether that
weight is at the periphery of the wheel or not is triflingly small as
was demonstrated by another writer. However, bicycles do not
accelerate at any perceptible rate from one speed to another, and when
they do, its at startup from the standing start. It has almost
nothing to do with riding once underway where change of speed occurs
at glacial accelerations (aka <1/20g).
Therefore, although one gram more or less on the tread (periphery) of
a tire is equivalent to two grams on the hub *for acceleration only*,
this is a greatly exaggerated physical effect that enables bicycle
shops to sell unnecessarily expensive wheels on the basis of this true
but irrelevant physics.
Jobst Brandt <jbrandt@hpl.hp.com>
https://yarchive.net/bike/rotating_mass.html
From: jbrandt@hpl.hp.com (Jobst Brandt)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: The weight question...
Date: 26 Mar 2000 02:30:27 GMT
Andre Charlebois writes:
> The most important weight is that which is at the periphery of a
> rotating mass. In other words, pedals, rims, tires, tubes are more
> important than cogs, BB's, hubs, etc.
This is an age old fable in bicycling and useful to cite when an
excuse for some new wheels is needed. If they are aerodynamic, then
that's easy to justify even though they are heavier, but just a bit
lighter ones are less so, so out comes the rotational inertia bit.
Inertia is important for acceleration but not at constant speed where
it is probably beneficial, although I don't know of any study that has
quantified this. Francesco Moser used a large flywheel rear wheel in
his last attempt at increasing his Hour Record but the flesh wouldn't
respond. I am sure they analyzed the effects however.
Although it may seem daunting, when another rider pulls away on a hill
or in a bike race on the flat, these accelerations, except in standing
starts, are so small as to make the rotating mass story a hoax. Sure,
the mass counts twice as much when accelerating but two times zero is
still zero, and how long does a rider accelerate. Weight of bicycle
components for climbing is the main consideration, not acceleration.
The rotating mass story is a fable that sounds good and has just
enough technical truth to be one that will probably sustain itself
indefinitely. Making equipment choices by it are a matter of faith,
not fact.
Jobst Brandt jbrandt@hpl.hp.com
AND:
From: jbrandt@hpl.hp.com (Jobst Brandt)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: My proposed wheelset....opinions please.
Date: 5 Jan 2001 18:30:36 GMT
Mike Krueger writes:
>>> When one pushes down on the pedals, and the bike speeds up, that
>>> is acceleration.
>> sure. but no acceleration worth mentioning when talking about
>> inertia of rotating mass.
> OK, I'm not an engineer. Let's put this in layman's terms, so that I
> can understand it. Are you saying that it does not require more work
> to increase the rotating speed of a heavy wheel vs. a light wheel?
> (aerodynamics, tire rolling resistance, and all else being equal)
For bicyclists the main effort is overcoming wind resistance, the
second is raising weight up climbs (unless this is your specialty),
the two are distinctly different in human response as most of us
recognize. Way down the list for better bicycles lies tire rolling
resistance and friction in the chain. After that, at a great
distance, comes acceleration of changing speed... affected primarily
by the mass of the rider and bicycle. The difference of whether that
weight is at the periphery of the wheel or not is triflingly small as
was demonstrated by another writer. However, bicycles do not
accelerate at any perceptible rate from one speed to another, and when
they do, its at startup from the standing start. It has almost
nothing to do with riding once underway where change of speed occurs
at glacial accelerations (aka <1/20g).
Therefore, although one gram more or less on the tread (periphery) of
a tire is equivalent to two grams on the hub *for acceleration only*,
this is a greatly exaggerated physical effect that enables bicycle
shops to sell unnecessarily expensive wheels on the basis of this true
but irrelevant physics.
Jobst Brandt <jbrandt@hpl.hp.com>
Last edited by DnvrFox; 01-29-11 at 10:08 PM.
#17
Fred at large
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 640
Likes: 0
From: Roads of Ventura County Ca
The weight difference is both real and not real. Yes, the bike weighs less so you don't have to accelerate/maintain that extra mass. However, I suspect that the truth is that the new bike also has a different geometry than the old bike and that the geometry change is what is driving the improvement more than the 2.5 lbs weight loss. When combined the result is a notable difference in performance that neither individual change can support alone but the geometry change is a bigger alteration than the 2.5 lbs and less obvious.
#18
Riding
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,909
Likes: 0
From: Bend, Oregon
Bikes: Motobecane Fantom Cross Pro; Motobecane Nemesis Pro
#20
Riding
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,909
Likes: 0
From: Bend, Oregon
Bikes: Motobecane Fantom Cross Pro; Motobecane Nemesis Pro
#22
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 362
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, MN
Bikes: 91 Specialized Sirrus, 96 Gary Fischer, 08 Specialized Roubaix Elite, 2010 Specialized Tricross Sport
I upgraded the wheelset on my Roubaix in the middle of this past season. The new wheels were lighter and stiffer with better bearings. I immediately noticed a difference in climbing, accelerating and coasting. In my experience the wheels will make the most difference.
#23
Time for a change.

Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,913
Likes: 7
From: 6 miles inland from the coast of Sussex, in the South East of England
Bikes: Dale MT2000. Bianchi FS920 Kona Explosif. Giant TCR C. Boreas Ignis. Pinarello Fp Uno.
But It is those original fitment wheels that I do not like. Bikes are made to a price and one of the Biggest cost savings on a bike would be made on the wheels. Cheap hubs onto a cheap rim with cheap spokes (And it does happen) do not make for a good wheel. Bearings do not run as free as they should- Rims can flex at the wrong time and spokes may not have the right quality to be able to flex ot stay stiff at the correct time. I have always said that the best thing you can do to improve a bike is to fit "Good" wheels but a good wheel builder can work wonders on a stock wheel to make it better.
The original wheels on the OCR were OK- they turned- and were always true. I noticed how poor they were when I fitted some handbuilts to it. Rolling speed on a downhill went up- it turned a few high speed corners into curves and at the end of a long ride I was not quite as fatigued.
I have never had Lightweight wheels- My handbuilts and Ultegras are around 1650 grammes a pair and I have Aksiums that are around 1800 and are good wheels but I don't notice any difference in speed or Climbing ability. But put those stock OCR wheels on and I do notice that the bike doesn't work as good as it should.
__________________
How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
Spike Milligan
How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
Spike Milligan
#24
Don from Austin Texas
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,211
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Texas
Bikes: Schwinn S25 "department store crap" FS MTB, home-made CF 26" hybrid, CF road bike with straight bar, various wierd frankenbikes
Having picked up the 20 lb bike, there will be a strong psychological aspect going that it must be much faster.
With two different bikes you probably have two different gearsets, different geometry. These will most likely make a far bigger difference than 2.25 lbs.
Try carrying a second water bottle -- I doubt if it will make your new bike feel like your old one.
Don in Austin
Last edited by Don in Austin; 01-30-11 at 07:39 AM. Reason: typos
#25
Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,794
Likes: 1
From: Orlando, FL
Bikes: litespeed, cannondale
I recall switching from a touring bike to a road (racing) bike years ago. The road bike was lighter and had a really short wheelbase. It accelerated much better and handled corners better. I also recall being in a short road race once and stripping the bike for the event - no frame pump, no rear pack with tools and tubes, no water bottle even. The loss of 3-4 lbs was noticeable.
So if you are reasonably fit and light, 2 lbs should be noticeable mainly in climbing, handling and acceleration. Also lighter bikes usually have higher end components, better shifting and better handling so that adds in too.
Now I recall, Diane nailed a friend of hers who had a new light bike by filling up the frame and handle bars with rice of all thing. He was at a light and the bar end was loose so he pulled it off and rice gushed out. He did not notice any difference by having a couple of extra lbs on rice on his high end bike. By the way, Diane is a mechanic so there was no damage.
The problem is that when we ride a bike with less weight we KNOW it. So it is hard to control for the placebo effect. That is the bike is lighter and therefore it will be better. It is hard to even figure a way to do it without going to some sort of outlandish lengths or having a bike mechanic friend with a warped sense of humor.
So if you are reasonably fit and light, 2 lbs should be noticeable mainly in climbing, handling and acceleration. Also lighter bikes usually have higher end components, better shifting and better handling so that adds in too.
Now I recall, Diane nailed a friend of hers who had a new light bike by filling up the frame and handle bars with rice of all thing. He was at a light and the bar end was loose so he pulled it off and rice gushed out. He did not notice any difference by having a couple of extra lbs on rice on his high end bike. By the way, Diane is a mechanic so there was no damage.
The problem is that when we ride a bike with less weight we KNOW it. So it is hard to control for the placebo effect. That is the bike is lighter and therefore it will be better. It is hard to even figure a way to do it without going to some sort of outlandish lengths or having a bike mechanic friend with a warped sense of humor.





