For the 50 and especially 60+ riders, if you ride a bike with a level top tube, do you have any physical issues that would cause you to switch to a sloping tube?

I have a Merckx with a level top tube and I find it fine right now. The bike is a little big for me, but there is about a 1.5" drop from saddle to bars. I am going to have a new bike built and aesthetically, I prefer a level top tube. At least one builder I have talked to suggested a sloping top tube because of a lower step over height and some other reasons.

While I can see some comfort issues with the sloping top tube, if I am going to have a bike built, I would really prefer the level top tube. Any reason why I should consider a sloping top tube, or should I just go with my aesthetic preference?

(on a good day I can touch my fingers to the floor without bending my knees)

Both of my custom bikes have slightly sloping top tubes. I think my newest one has a 6 degree slope.

- The disadvantage of a sloping top tube is aesthetics (for those who like level top tubes)
- The advantage is allowing less saddle-to-handlebar drop without making other wacky changes in the geometry.


I think "lower step over height" is a poor reason to create a bike w/a sloping top tube. Unless you're going with a *dramatic* angle in the top tube, I don't see how it would make that much difference when you're getting off the bike.

One of the other changes that a builder can do is to make the headtube extension above the top tube slightly longer than "normal." That allows you to get the handlebars higher in relation to the saddle without having a huge stack of spacers.

In the end, though, you should get the bike that makes you excited

Kids these days are too lazy to lift their leg high enough to get it over the top tube. So they think, "no way that old dude can do it".

I would get the level top tube, it is what you want and you will have buyers remorse if you do not get it.

I for one, hate a sloping top tube.

"Step over height" means absolutely zip to me in terms of mounting - I always swing my leg over the back of the bike (and the saddle) rather than over the top tube. That saddle height will be the same distance from the ground, regardless of whether the top tube slopes or not.

"Stand over height" is a different animal to me, and IMO implies the distance between your crotch and the bike when you come to a stop and get off the saddle, but stay astride the bike.

The only reason I'm planning to get a sloping top tube bike is that all of the "relaxed" road bikes I've seen on the market (those with a shorter reach and longer head tube) seem to be designed that way. If I was ordering a custom bike I'd probably rely on the advice of the designer.

My TT is level if I'm going down a 3.8 degree hill.

One of my bikes is a Surly Long Haul Trucker. It has a very mildly sloping top tube which is not even noticeable. I think the drop is something like 1/4 ~ inch. I can live with that. Matter of fact, I like the look of the bike the way I have it set up. All my other road bikes have flat top tubes.

Out of 7 bikes, 5 have level top tubes, 2 have sloping top tubes. Of those that have sloping top tubes, one is a hard-tail mountain bike (GT Zaskar), and the other is my go-fast climbing bike (GURU Photon).

To me, the truth is, it really doesn't matter whether the top tube is level or not.

Rick / OCRR

Exogrid will do that to you ...

70+ here and still easily mount and ride my level 1999 Lemoind BA. As I swing my leg over the seat, I see no relevance in whether or not the TT is level or sloped. How do you get on your bike? Am I missing something here? Why would age make a difference?

I just recently ordered my first custom bike, and when the preliminary design draft came back from the builder it had a sloping top tube.

I hate the way sloping top tubes look.

So I asked the builder if he could do this with a level top tube instead. He said "Sure, but..." and proceeded to rattle off at least four good reasons why I would be better off with a sloping toptube.

I'll be honest, I don't remember what those reasons were. (!) But the fact that he had compelling reasons for that design -- it's not like he only ever builds sloping toptubes, this was a specific consideration based on what he knew about me and what sort of bike I was looking for -- convinced me to put up with an aesthetic element I wouldn't have originally choosen.

And now that I have the bike, I wouldn't change a thing...because it is freakin' gorgeous!

I hate you!




I can barely touch my wife's toes when she's got her feet in my lap! My own? Not a chance. And yet one of my bikes has a level top tube, another has a just-barely-sloping top tube, and then the new one (see above) has a bona fide sloping top tube. Nothing about that design element seems impacted by my inflexibility; I'm no less comfortable on the level TT bike than the others. 'Tis a non-issue, methinks.

Hi,

I like the aesthetic of a level top tube better than a sloping top tube but you can't find a race bike these days with a level top tube. And for race bikes, overall performance and fit > aesthetics.

I can easily touch my toes/floor anytime while standing.
Yes, have slightly sloping top tube.
As I age a bit (78 now) it's a tad easier to mount/dismount.
Can hardly wait 'til I get older!
Rudy/zonatandem

Here's my bike mentioned above . .

Most of my bikes have level top tubes, but two of them have sloping ones. The tandem has a slight slope since it was built with a slightly shorter seat tube in the back - we actually don't need it that way, but it's a very common tandem design since most couples aren't the same height. And my folder has a sloping top tube (or no top tube at all depending on what you call the single tube joining the head and seat tubes). On one tour I did with the folder my friend commented that he was envious of how easily I was able to get on and off - a fully loaded touring bike makes it a little harder to swing a leg up and over the seat.

But I don't see much of a functional difference either way. If you prefer the traditional aesthetics of a level top tube then I'd suggest you stick with that.

Both of my bikes have sloping tops. I don't mind the look, and I appreciate the big standover space on my typical ride, which will include climbing over curbs and easing my way over minor obstacles like rocks, ledges or fallen branches on the trail. Kona makes all of its bikes with sloping tops, IIRC, and claims the resulting geometry allows for a better balance of ride comfort and control. I don't know about that, but I don't think there are any functional drawbacks to the sloped design. No big deal, but it is a bit easier to live with.

I ride with both. My Jamis Eclipse and 80s Specialize Sirrus, and Colnago Master XL have level top tubes. My Cannondale and Specialized S-Works Roubaix have sloping top tubes. And my Indy Fab CJ TI has a very very mildly sloping top tube (it's not discernible to most people who see it). Thing is when I'm on them I never even think about it.

I do, however, wonder why we call it a sloping top tube instead of a slanting top tube.

One thing to consider with a sloping TT- if you have a rack that supports the bike by the TT, and carry more than one bike on it, you may have interference problems that you didn't have before.

I have two vintage Road bikes with a horizontal top-tube and two modern Road bikes with a sloping top-tube.

I find that the modern bikes fit better. I like a longer top-tube in proportion to the seat tube and need a virtual top-tube length of 59 to 60cm. I also like having a taller head-tube length. Most bikes with level top-tubes have short (for me) top-tubes in proportion to the rest of the bike.

I base my selection on fit, not appearance.

I've found that with congenital problems with both knees and hips, that have resulted in severe arthritis, and the replacement of one hip after it had fused... Horizontal top tube frames no longer have the appeal that they once did for me. But, really looking back on it, I always thought that the "Standard" diamond frame bike was pretty boring aesthetically anyway.

I ride all types of frames now,(step through, diamond, semi-recumbent) but my favorite is by far my Mixte (so I have twin angeled top tubes)... Which got me interested in the old cross frame designs of the late 1900's through 1950's https://www.rijwiel.net/kruisf2e.htm I would love to have a Utility/Xtra cycle bike based on the old Locomothief Frame design.

But, I guess you all are just talking about "Road Bikes" which I'm really not interested in anyway overall (even though I used to own several).

I just have to laugh, because it happens in C&V forum as well... When ever anyone starts talking about angeled vs. Level top tubes, it turns into a virility comparison contest, or something. "Huuurumph I don't need a slanted top tube, I can still throw my leg over a level top tube Huurummph huuuurmmmph"... Like that has something to do with it.

Yes and no.




I'm 66 and have no problems with any of the bikes. Level top tubes work if the bike is sized correctly.

I don't think there's any advantage to a level top tube, except its aesthetic quality. To some people that's just the way a bike should look. I thought the sloping tubes looked weird and, well, "wrong" when they first appeared, but I've gotten used to them. Now a level top tube looks kind of "retro". I choose bikes for how they work, not so much how they look. I do like a sharp looking bike, but a level top tube is no longer part of that equation.

Mine is pretty level and tall on my cyclocross frame. I had to lean the bike way over to get on. Then I noticed some months ago (I'm 71) I had to chase my foot around the bedroom to put a sock on. So I started doing quad and hamstring stretches. Once a day, one rep for 30 seconds. That's per a pt expert who's books I read. Now I can just swing the foot over.

It's all in how one accommodates the aging thing. I prefer to keep as much functionality as possible rather than change the equipment until there's no other option.

Al

I'm not sure I can really grasp what difference the placement of the top tube really makes besides 1. stand over hight, and 2. aesthetics. To my way of thinking the only important factors are the relationship of the 3 points you body contacts the bike: the seat, the pedals, and the handle bars. How the tubes are connected to one another are irrelevant so long as those 3 points in space are at the same place in relationship to one another.

I realize that aesthetics, safety, bike handling, sanctioning rules, weight, and many other design factors will tend to dictate how those tubes come together, but I imagine you could build a very comfortable "bike" that would look very different from what we consider a "bike" and have it be as comfortable and efficient as a traditional "Flat bar."

Having said that, let's not venture into a discussion of "bents." That is an entirely different story as the relationship of those 3 points is totally different on those bikes.