I know this has been discussed before but the search function just won't do anything useful for this subject. So, let me ask again.

Riding my new Revel 9 I'm experiencing knee pain. It is under and at the lower edge of the patella. Never had this before on any of my other bikes. Of course, this is my first and only mountain bike so maybe that has something to do with it.

I seem to recall this calls for moving the saddle. Suggestions on which direction? Forward? Back? Up or Down? Combination?

Other than knee pain the bike is a joy to ride. I'm even enjoying riding with pinned pedals(Bearclaw?).

What to do?

I think you need to move forward to get your hips over the peddals and,,
learn to spin better..
Do watch for more responses,,I may be dead wrong.

Been quite some time since I rode DF's

Ease up till you sort it,,knees are expensive..

My first check would be to make sure that the seat height is right. *My rule of thumb is that with your pelvis level (from side to side) your heel should just rest comfortably on the pedal with little if any pressure with the pedal at the bottom of the stroke and your leg straight. *

Good advice above. I would add to check your foot rotation on the pedal. If possible, get a retention system which allows a fair degree of rotational "float." (I use traditional toeclips and straps, but some of the modern snap-in systems allow pretty good float.) The most important thing is to use low gears to keep the RPMs up and the pedal torque down.

One of the issues that isn't often considered is that the Q factor -- the distance of the inside of each crank from the seat tube -- on MTNB cranks, is wider than on a road cranks. If you have been using road cranks up to now, the alignment of your leg may not be the same, and may irritate the patella's tracking.

There's not much that can be done about the Q factor. And it's one of several factors, some of which have been mentioned above.

I was having consistent knee pain a couple of weeks ago but raising the saddle around 1/2" fixed it. It's certainly easy enough to try.

New bike and no pain before so it is something to do with set up. Don't know what sort of bike you had before but try to compare saddle to pedal measurements to se if they are different.

By pinned pedals I presume "Clipless" so if this is new to you again- cleat position can cause a problem. I like to to ride with my toes pointing in but this is not the case for everyone.

Till you find the problem- Take it easy. Don't labour on the hills and spin faster. Even slight changes to seat and bars can alter body position so try just small changes at a time to try and find out where the problem lies.

By pinned, I am taking that to mean platform pedals with pins in the platform to stop the sole from slipping off.

Pedals first: Pinned Pedals are also known as Bear Claw Pedals. They are flat metal skeletal pedals that have pins around the circumference to help keep feet from slipping. A mountain biking friend gave me a pair so I bought another pair for this bike. Pretty effective and removes the risk of not being able to get my feet free.

Q Factor: Hadn't considered that. Since there isn't much I do on the bike for that hopefully more fitness will compensate.

Seat Height: I am going to play with that. I see one person's personal preference. In the end that is what it will resolve to. In the meantime any generally accepted starting place?

Seat Location: Will the fore and aft locaton have any effect?


Thanks all.

Also check crank length.
Your new cranks might be slightly longer.

IF you are only having pain in ONE knee, obviously that knee isn't as good as the other one.

I have "bad" knees, with one having a more limited range of motion.
I simply have to use 165MM long cranks.
170MM and I'm on the edge of chronic knee pain. 175MM and my knee constantly hurts and cadence slowed down by 20 RPM.

If after you play with seat adjustment , and before you invest in new cranks, your pain is still there try a set of "Kneesavers" to align you feet/knees better during the pedal stroke.

https://www.kneesaver.net/

Yes, patellar pain is usually due to saddle too low, in my experience. I'd raise it 1/8 inch at a time and ride it a few days each time to see how much it improves.

Is that necessarily so? Maybe the cause is the other knee/leg being weaker and the one with the pain has additional strain upon it from carrying more than its' share of the load? Diagnosis would tell the tale.

Took the Revel to my Wonderful LBS. Guy is really nice. Better yet, he really knows what he is doing. He readjusted the saddle about an inch up and moved it back a few centimeters. Initital setup was deliberately low due so I could mount and dismount. I've changed so he now can put it closer to where it should be.

Result was an hour ride including a 20mph interval and climbing the face of a local dam. No pain. Other than the physical stress on my deconditioned body the whole evolution was smooth. I don't even think I'll have any DOMS.

So the answer is/was to move the saddle to put legs in a more proper place.

While you've worked it out, at this point, it's worth saying the most people have tilted pelvis and/or one leg longer than the other. This can cause distress in one knee and not the other.

Sounds like Patellar tendon, ie patella tendonitis from your quads overworking. Find yourself in more of an upright position on mtb as opposed to roadie? Try moving seat back so you have to reach for HB's. Forward bending, as in drop bars, engages your gluts, thus giving you more power, and saves the quads from all the fun.

Pre-ride, stretch the quads, as their insertion point is at the patellar tendon just distal to knee cap ;-), and let those puppies rest a bit would you.

Yeah, this agrees with the old (and very general) rule of;

knee pain in front - saddle too low
knee pain in back - saddle too high

Glad you're dialing it in.

Certainly most people are asymetrical. That has to be considered in most any athletic activity and, if severe, in much of daily life. I was just suggesting that the comment from an analytical perspective was only partially correct. What I am doing, and which may be appropriate for others, is a fairly comprehensive exercise program to stimulate and grow both muscles and nerves.

"Grow nerves"?

I haven't heard of this before, perhaps you mean enhance neuromuscular function through muscle memory/re-education? If not, how does your Dr./PT explain this? Just curious.

Yep, a person can grow nerves. Some nerves in the body once damaged cannot be regrown, others can. The ones I need can. Others, after significant trauma like I experienced can be "awakened" by proper stimulation.

Although we refer to it as "muscle memory", in fact it is the nerves inervating the muscles. Without that the muscles just stop performing and atrophy.

I have knee pain that starts at about 20 miles into a road ride and continues for the duration of the ride then leaves after 2 days. I had Meniscus surgery a few years back and the pain isn't near as severe as that was. The pain is on the front of the knee. Any ideas?

https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com.../11/knee-pain/

Fred: I read the article. I got my bike via BikesDirect online so have never had a "fitting". Also I got my shoes with clipins from a second hand gear shop and went to REI to get the appropriate pedals. The clipin's on the shoes don't have any identifying marks but the pedals are from bikesmart model: sprinter and they say "Look Keo compatible". I have no idea if the shoes and pedals are being held in proper alignment. If I went to my local bike shop (Mike's Bikes in Sacramento) how would I know that the person fitting me really knows what they are doing. After reading the article you recommended it looks like fitting can be a very complicated thing especially someone that can fit me so I don't have any more knee pain. Can you suggest what I should do to get the proper fitting. Now that I am experiencing knee pain I would put my cheap nature aside and get whatever shoes and pedals are best.

I would try small changes. I had knee pain in the same place , on my mountain bike I moved the cleats back and raised the saddle. On the road bike on the trainer with old Time cleats/pedals I raised the saddle and rotated the cleat angle as my pedaling motion likes heels in and I was always pushing against the pedal spring tension. I would start by measuring your cycling inseam and multiply by .883 to get a base saddle height via the " Lemond method" . That will give you a idea of where you are . My height is higher than this formula but I have size 13's. Do not ride hurting, immediately change things before it gets expensive. If it hurts something is wrong , don't ignore it. Get a metric tape measure and document your changes so you can duplicate or return to settings.

Fred: I rotated my left heal out, lowered my seat one inch and moved the seat forward one inch. I am headed to Yosemite valley this morning and will ride my bike around the loop to rack up 40 miles or so and will see if the pain goes away. I'll report back on monday.