Clipless pedals got to me today!
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 1,846
Bikes: 2006 Specialized Ruby Pro aka "Rhubarb" / and a backup road bike
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
4 Posts
I've had more problems without clipless pedals than I have since converting to toe clips then to clipless.
There was the time I was climbing standing on the pedals on my 3 speed women's bike and it slipped out of gear (eg: chain fell off). The pedals spun freely and I fell off. Since there was no top tube, I fell all the way onto the bottom bracket and skinned both knees and hit my head on the handlebars, then fell sideways onto the street. Fortunately there were no cars following me. Very painful.
More commonly were the times I slipped off the 10-speed bike's rattrap pedals and raked my shins.
I keep the tension very light on my clipless pedals and haven't accidentally unclipped. I love being connected when I stand on the pedals to climb or am unweighting the bike at speed.
I've had a couple of falls at very slow speeds. If I had been on platform pedals I probably would have gotten the foot down awkwardly and sprained the ankle anyhow.
There was the time I was climbing standing on the pedals on my 3 speed women's bike and it slipped out of gear (eg: chain fell off). The pedals spun freely and I fell off. Since there was no top tube, I fell all the way onto the bottom bracket and skinned both knees and hit my head on the handlebars, then fell sideways onto the street. Fortunately there were no cars following me. Very painful.
More commonly were the times I slipped off the 10-speed bike's rattrap pedals and raked my shins.
I keep the tension very light on my clipless pedals and haven't accidentally unclipped. I love being connected when I stand on the pedals to climb or am unweighting the bike at speed.
I've had a couple of falls at very slow speeds. If I had been on platform pedals I probably would have gotten the foot down awkwardly and sprained the ankle anyhow.
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,548
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18429 Post(s)
Liked 4,548 Times
in
3,379 Posts
For many people, once is enough. Perhaps a second time in an extreme situation, but most people learn to get their feet loose when necessary, either pulling them out early, or just instinctively twisting when one needs them loose in a hurry.
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Rural Minnesota
Posts: 1,604
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 75 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
I use SPD clipless so I can't speak to all clipless systems, but 99% of the problems people have with SPD are the result of not bothering to learn how to properly set them up. People buy the pedals, slap them on the bike and head out for a ride without a clue. If someone who never rode a bike before just jumped on one and headed out into traffic you'd consider them a fool, but when someone does the same thing with an unfamiliar piece of equipment they like to blame the pedals instead of themselves.
I had two zero mph tip overs when I first went to SPD for the exact reasons stated above. The second time was on a group ride and one of the riders who saw it worked for a LBS. The ride ended at the shop where he showed me how to adjust the pedal retention and had me switch from the old style single-release cleats that came with the pedals to multi-release. The factory retention setting was much higher than I needed to prevent accidental clip outs so we backed it off all the way and then in a couple of turns. Instantly I had smooth, intuitive clip ins and outs. I could clip out easily in any direction except straight forward, and I haven't had a failed clip-out in the four years since. Even at unexpected quick stops or when I need to put a foot down in loose gravel or such, all I feel is a light click as the cleat disengages. Yet I can still put all the power I want to the pedals, even under rough or wet conditions, without any fear of my foot slipping off. Shimano has now started including the multi-release cleats with their shoes and pedals and is phasing out the single-release versions. For beginners, they have introduced the Click'R line of pedals and shoes geared toward casual riding and commuting.
No, you do not have to use clipless pedals and I use dual sided pedals because I sometimes don't clip in, but these panic mongers who ominously warn riders of the certain death or dismemberment awaiting anyone foolish enough to attempt riding clipless are full of crap. There are risks to riding platform pedals as well. I started riding with platform pedals. The reason I first tried clipless was that on a wet day I came across a patch of rough, broken pavement that I couldn't avoid so I stood up. My right foot slipped forward off the pedal on the first bump. I injured my ankle when it hit the pavement, the pedal raked the back of my calf and threw me forward so I took the top tube to the groin and the handlebar to the ribs as I headed for the pavement. Far worse than any injury from either of my failed clip-outs.
Ride with or without clipless, it's a personal choice, but there are risks and benefits to both. If you are repeatedly failing clip outs, then there is a problem with the rider, not the pedals. Find someone who knows what they are doing to show you how to properly set up your pedals and cleats and then practice in a low-risk environment. If you are new to clipless, realize that, as with any unfamiliar equipment, there will be a short learning curve. Practice clipping in and out from a supported stationary position. This is also a good time to adjust your retention and float settings. Your first rides should be in low-risk areas, not heavy fast-moving traffic. Properly set up and with just a bit of practice, you will be every bit as safe as someone on platform pedals.
I had two zero mph tip overs when I first went to SPD for the exact reasons stated above. The second time was on a group ride and one of the riders who saw it worked for a LBS. The ride ended at the shop where he showed me how to adjust the pedal retention and had me switch from the old style single-release cleats that came with the pedals to multi-release. The factory retention setting was much higher than I needed to prevent accidental clip outs so we backed it off all the way and then in a couple of turns. Instantly I had smooth, intuitive clip ins and outs. I could clip out easily in any direction except straight forward, and I haven't had a failed clip-out in the four years since. Even at unexpected quick stops or when I need to put a foot down in loose gravel or such, all I feel is a light click as the cleat disengages. Yet I can still put all the power I want to the pedals, even under rough or wet conditions, without any fear of my foot slipping off. Shimano has now started including the multi-release cleats with their shoes and pedals and is phasing out the single-release versions. For beginners, they have introduced the Click'R line of pedals and shoes geared toward casual riding and commuting.
No, you do not have to use clipless pedals and I use dual sided pedals because I sometimes don't clip in, but these panic mongers who ominously warn riders of the certain death or dismemberment awaiting anyone foolish enough to attempt riding clipless are full of crap. There are risks to riding platform pedals as well. I started riding with platform pedals. The reason I first tried clipless was that on a wet day I came across a patch of rough, broken pavement that I couldn't avoid so I stood up. My right foot slipped forward off the pedal on the first bump. I injured my ankle when it hit the pavement, the pedal raked the back of my calf and threw me forward so I took the top tube to the groin and the handlebar to the ribs as I headed for the pavement. Far worse than any injury from either of my failed clip-outs.
Ride with or without clipless, it's a personal choice, but there are risks and benefits to both. If you are repeatedly failing clip outs, then there is a problem with the rider, not the pedals. Find someone who knows what they are doing to show you how to properly set up your pedals and cleats and then practice in a low-risk environment. If you are new to clipless, realize that, as with any unfamiliar equipment, there will be a short learning curve. Practice clipping in and out from a supported stationary position. This is also a good time to adjust your retention and float settings. Your first rides should be in low-risk areas, not heavy fast-moving traffic. Properly set up and with just a bit of practice, you will be every bit as safe as someone on platform pedals.
Last edited by GravelMN; 01-12-15 at 03:00 AM.
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 80
Bikes: 2014 Specialized Secteur Elite, Trek "Discovery Channel" Road Bike, Diamondback Edgewood LX Hybrid
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I had two zero mph tip overs when I first went to SPD for the exact reasons stated above. The second time was on a group ride and one of the riders who saw it worked for a LBS. The ride ended at the shop where he showed me how to adjust the pedal retention and had me switch from the old style single-release cleats that came with the pedals to multi-release. The factory retention setting was much higher than I needed to prevent accidental clip outs so we backed it off all the way and then in a couple of turns. Instantly I had smooth, intuitive clip ins and outs. I could clip out easily in any direction except straight forward, and I haven't had a failed clip-out in the four years since.
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,548
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18429 Post(s)
Liked 4,548 Times
in
3,379 Posts
I'm sitting here with a sore knee as I write this. Thanks GravelMN for this information. I'm not too proud to ask you to tell me what kind of pedal to change to so I can experience the results that you have described. I only have three levels of adjustment on these pedals and even the lowest setting is still too much in my opinion. I didn't know enough to ask for "multi-release" pedals. First I've heard of them so I would like more information and I'll purchase them as insurance against this happening again. Thanks
But the cleats are different.
The Shimano SH-56 is considered a multi-release cleat (also marked with an "M"). They have less float than the standard cleats, but are supposed to come out very easily...
The would be great for beginners and kids, and until one gets comfortable with the cleats... I suppose at the risk of learning to pull out without the twist.
I haven't tried them myself because at times I do pull up, and fear they would have too many undesired releases.
I don't know if other cleat styles have the multi-release.
On my SPD pedals, there is also a Allen screw that can adjust the tension from quite loose to too tight to insert the clips.
#31
Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Retired to Penang Malaysia originally from UK
Posts: 346
Bikes: My 1978 Raleigh from new, 1995 Trek, & constant changing & rebuilding of other bike projects.
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Another good SPD pedal set up for beginners or people who do not want to use them in traffic / town situations etc, is the PD-M505 with the SM-PD 22 platforms, & the matching SM-SH51 cleat, these are ideal for general & casual off road use, but people who are more serious in the off road may find them not suitable, they are very easy adjustable but the more you put under your feet the more it will collect muck.
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Berkley, Michigan USA
Posts: 76
Bikes: 1972 Gitane Gransport, 1985 Gitane Performance
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I took a tumble last fall. Dismounting the bike and foot got tangled in clip strap. Went down like a 200 lb sack of potatoes. Couldn't sleep comfortably on my left side for two months. Don't bounce as well at 70 as I did at 50. No more cowboy dismounts me thinks. Only other choice is to remove the toe clips and straps and that is not appealing .... yet.
#34
Banned.
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 964
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
I sometime ride critical mass and slowroll in Detroit, when someone falls it almost exclusively is a clipless pedal malfunction lol and its is kinda funny. Usually someone is comming to a stop and fail getting their feet out in time, but thankfully they are not moving fast.
#35
The Left Coast, USA
If you want to make this more complicated for your brain, go clipless on some bikes, straps (fixie) on others. The result is auto muscle memory goes out the window; initially you'll try to twist out of straps or backslide out of being clipped in - neither works. Overtime, your brain creates some treed memory behavior that sort of tests the restraint as your stopping to select the right movement - at least that's how it appears to me. It's humorous how this affected by circumstances, if you stop behind someone using straps, my brain assumes I'm using straps, but if the person next to me clicks out my foot wants to do the same thing even if I'm in straps.
I use the original spd configuration on three bikes cause I'll also take my clipless shoes and sandals to spin, I want them all compatible. One of my best purchases I made was VP pedals with a strong exit spring, your foot actually gets launched coming off the pedal - if you do have to make an emergency exit it seems much faster than Shimano pedals I've used in the past.
I think some of this confusion / 'danger' might be good for you in the long run, keeps your brain clicked on.
I use the original spd configuration on three bikes cause I'll also take my clipless shoes and sandals to spin, I want them all compatible. One of my best purchases I made was VP pedals with a strong exit spring, your foot actually gets launched coming off the pedal - if you do have to make an emergency exit it seems much faster than Shimano pedals I've used in the past.
I think some of this confusion / 'danger' might be good for you in the long run, keeps your brain clicked on.
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Maryland
Posts: 115
Bikes: Univega/custom,Evil Brut Fatbike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I just gave up my cleats and straps for SPD clip-less.I fallen over on my motor cycles my shoes and a few times in bed but not on my bike yet! Knock on Wood....
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Rural Minnesota
Posts: 1,604
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 75 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
I'm sitting here with a sore knee as I write this. Thanks GravelMN for this information. I'm not too proud to ask you to tell me what kind of pedal to change to so I can experience the results that you have described. I only have three levels of adjustment on these pedals and even the lowest setting is still too much in my opinion. I didn't know enough to ask for "multi-release" pedals. First I've heard of them so I would like more information and I'll purchase them as insurance against this happening again. Thanks
I haven't tried them but Shimano recently came out with the Click'R system geared toward casual riders which are supposed to be even easier to use.
There are other pedal manufacturers, like Wellgo, that make similar pedals but I have been told that they may not be interchangeable with genuine Shimano SPD and some may not work as well. I like Shimano SPD and stick with that system, but if you decide to try Wellgo or other similar pedals, you might be better off getting cleats of the same brand.
I like SPD but there are other clipless systems out there and each has its fans. I suggest you stop at an LBS and try out a few to see what works best for you. Some road enthusiasts frown on SPD for road bikes but there are a lot of us out there who use them. For my preferences and style of riding, walkable MTB or touring shoes suit me well. You will still have a learning curve and should practice in a safe environment at first, but with proper set up, you should adapt to them quickly.
One thing I will mention: While many people worry about not being able to clip out easily, if like me you choose walkable MTB or touring shoes, while getting used to them you may find that you occasionally miss clipping in. This isn't a big problem. Don't make the mistake of looking down and focusing on getting clipped in while getting started in traffic. Just pedal as if on platforms for a few strokes and then flip the pedal (if you are using dual sided) or reposition your foot and clip in once you are under way. You shouldn't have to look down to do this and only have to soft pedal for one revolution to accomplish it. Once you have been using your walkable SPD shoes for a while, missed clip ins will be a rarity that you handle without even thinking about it.
Trailangel,
When I bought my most recent pair of shoes at an LBS, they came with SH56s, and I was told that Shimano was including them with more of their shoes and was "phasing out" single release cleats. I have no reason to doubt them but I went online after your question and couldn't find confirmation, so I withdraw that assertion until such time as it can be verified.
Last edited by GravelMN; 01-13-15 at 11:21 AM.
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 4,848
Bikes: Schwinn Varsity
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1931 Post(s)
Liked 742 Times
in
422 Posts
Thank you. I too use the SPD, and I like them. Reversible pedals like the Shimano 324.
Forte Campus. etc., for road bike use. Heavy traffic and it's the other side of the pedal.
Forte Campus. etc., for road bike use. Heavy traffic and it's the other side of the pedal.
#39
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 80
Bikes: 2014 Specialized Secteur Elite, Trek "Discovery Channel" Road Bike, Diamondback Edgewood LX Hybrid
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have Shimano A530s on my road bike and M324s on my gravel grinder and MTB. Both of these pedals have a wide range of retention adjustment that requires a small hex (allen) wrench. It isn't the pedals, but the cleats that are multi-release in Shimano's SPD system. When you buy shoes, they may come with single-release (black SH51) cleats. These work but have a specific motion needed to disengage them from the pedal. The multi-release (silver SH56) cleats will disengage in most directions except straight forward. The good news is, if you already have SPD shoes with single release cleats, you can replace them with multi-release cleats for $12-$15. Here is the instruction sheet that Shimano provides https://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830732602.pdf . It describes both types of cleats and proper retention adjustment on Shimano pedals.
I haven't tried them but Shimano recently came out with the Click'R system geared toward casual riders which are supposed to be even easier to use.
There are other pedal manufacturers, like Wellgo, that make similar pedals but I have been told that they may not be interchangeable with genuine Shimano SPD and some may not work as well. I like Shimano SPD and stick with that system, but if you decide to try Wellgo or other similar pedals, you might be better off getting cleats of the same brand.
I like SPD but there are other clipless systems out there and each has its fans. I suggest you stop at an LBS and try out a few to see what works best for you. Some road enthusiasts frown on SPD for road bikes but there are a lot of us out there who use them. For my preferences and style of riding, walkable MTB or touring shoes suit me well. You will still have a learning curve and should practice in a safe environment at first, but with proper set up, you should adapt to them quickly.
I haven't tried them but Shimano recently came out with the Click'R system geared toward casual riders which are supposed to be even easier to use.
There are other pedal manufacturers, like Wellgo, that make similar pedals but I have been told that they may not be interchangeable with genuine Shimano SPD and some may not work as well. I like Shimano SPD and stick with that system, but if you decide to try Wellgo or other similar pedals, you might be better off getting cleats of the same brand.
I like SPD but there are other clipless systems out there and each has its fans. I suggest you stop at an LBS and try out a few to see what works best for you. Some road enthusiasts frown on SPD for road bikes but there are a lot of us out there who use them. For my preferences and style of riding, walkable MTB or touring shoes suit me well. You will still have a learning curve and should practice in a safe environment at first, but with proper set up, you should adapt to them quickly.
In the back of my mind I have always been thinking "I wonder if other pedals wouldn't be better than the ones I have"? In my original post I admitted that it was my fault because I just wasn't concentrating enough at the time. But I wonder if my shoe would have let loose in time with the multi-release clips. I'm thinking "yes" and will try to improve on what I have now. Thank you and the others who have provided good information to help me and others out on this subject.
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Rural Minnesota
Posts: 1,604
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 75 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Good Luck,
Whatever you pick, take the time to set them up correctly and practice until they become second nature. You should be able to get them set up pretty well from a stationary position such as holding on to a post or fence for balance while you clip in and out several times. Then take a ride in a low risk environment and practice clipping in and out. You might have to tweek the adjustments a few times to get it just right. Everyone has his/her own preferences and riding style but for me, what worked best was to set them very light and then increasing the tension a half turn or so at a time until there were no accidental clip outs. Even on my gravel bike, which sees lots of washboard road and rough single track, it was surprising to see how little tension it took to keep my cleats properly placed.
I can't say that you'll never have another clip out fail, but the likelihood will drop greatly with good set up and practice.
Whatever you pick, take the time to set them up correctly and practice until they become second nature. You should be able to get them set up pretty well from a stationary position such as holding on to a post or fence for balance while you clip in and out several times. Then take a ride in a low risk environment and practice clipping in and out. You might have to tweek the adjustments a few times to get it just right. Everyone has his/her own preferences and riding style but for me, what worked best was to set them very light and then increasing the tension a half turn or so at a time until there were no accidental clip outs. Even on my gravel bike, which sees lots of washboard road and rough single track, it was surprising to see how little tension it took to keep my cleats properly placed.
I can't say that you'll never have another clip out fail, but the likelihood will drop greatly with good set up and practice.
#41
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 80
Bikes: 2014 Specialized Secteur Elite, Trek "Discovery Channel" Road Bike, Diamondback Edgewood LX Hybrid
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Good Luck,
Whatever you pick, take the time to set them up correctly and practice until they become second nature. You should be able to get them set up pretty well from a stationary position such as holding on to a post or fence for balance while you clip in and out several times. Then take a ride in a low risk environment and practice clipping in and out. You might have to tweek the adjustments a few times to get it just right. Everyone has his/her own preferences and riding style but for me, what worked best was to set them very light and then increasing the tension a half turn or so at a time until there were no accidental clip outs. Even on my gravel bike, which sees lots of washboard road and rough single track, it was surprising to see how little tension it took to keep my cleats properly placed.
I can't say that you'll never have another clip out fail, but the likelihood will drop greatly with good set up and practice.
Whatever you pick, take the time to set them up correctly and practice until they become second nature. You should be able to get them set up pretty well from a stationary position such as holding on to a post or fence for balance while you clip in and out several times. Then take a ride in a low risk environment and practice clipping in and out. You might have to tweek the adjustments a few times to get it just right. Everyone has his/her own preferences and riding style but for me, what worked best was to set them very light and then increasing the tension a half turn or so at a time until there were no accidental clip outs. Even on my gravel bike, which sees lots of washboard road and rough single track, it was surprising to see how little tension it took to keep my cleats properly placed.
I can't say that you'll never have another clip out fail, but the likelihood will drop greatly with good set up and practice.
#42
Full Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 331
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 11 Times
in
9 Posts
The secret? Realize you just made a fool of yourself. Rotate your elbow and knee out so they hit first but keep your arm and leg relaxed. If you stay relaxed and hit in 4 or 5 places, none will hit hard and you will be fine. Unclip, get up, dust yourself off and act like that was all planned.
16 months ago, I was making a tight U-turn, and unfortunately, at my slowest, I hit a patch of gravel. The tires slipped, the bike started going down to the left. I tried to quickly unclip as I went down. It all happened so fast (but in slow motion), so I'm not sure if I didn't have time to unclip or I just failed in my haste to do it. I knew I was going down. I didn't think "hit the elbow and knee first" as much as I thought, "Don't stick the arm out, hitting hand first is a great way to break a collarbone or something else," and I figured if I hit my shoulder, it would all be good. I did hit my shoulder, I had a nice little red area on the fleshy side of my shoulder, but no injuries.
On the other hand, somehow, things fell apart after my shoulder hit. The next thing I known, my left knee has slammed into the pavement, causing a bruised kneecap that lasted for a couple of weeks, and my face is headed towards the pavement. I got my left hand out to stop my face from hitting. My chin banged a little, enough for a very slight bruise, and my glove prevented any loss of skin on my left hand. I picked myself up, took inventory -- no apparent break in the knee cap, no blood or apparent break in my jawbone from hitting my chin, the left hand was fine. The bike seemed OK, so I got back on the bike to ride the couple of miles back to my house.
About a quarter of a mile down the road, I realized I couldn't straighten my right pinkie. Then I realized there was throbbing on the side of my right hand. Next stoplight, I tried to take the right glove off to check it out. It was too painful to try, so I figured I'd take it off slowly at home, or cut it off if necessary. I didn't notice the small hole in the back of my glove just below the knuckle on my pinkie, or the blood spot there. When I got home, I was able to take off the glove very slowly, and the deformation was obvious. I still didn't notice the small hole in the glove, although after coming home from the trip to the ER and the emergency surgery for the open fracture of the 5th metacarpal, I did realize that the bone not only poked a hole through my skin, but through the glove as well. It is a great souvenir of my accident.
I have no idea how or why I fractured the right hand, except I must have somehow punched the pavement. Everyone online and offline seemed to agree, the big mistake was not thinking about making sure I held on to the handlebars when I fell. Then my knee would not have slammed into the pavement, my face wouldn't have been headed for the pavement, and my right hand wouldn't have punched the pavement. In a slow fall to the side, relax but don't let go, that's my advice.
#43
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: La Porte Texas
Posts: 319
Bikes: Specialized Hardrock 29er Sport Disc Trek Domane 4.0c
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I had to loosen the cleat on my Speedplay Zero, and I took a little float out and that made a huge difference in clip in clip out force.
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 239
Bikes: GT Carbon Grade, Jamis Nova Pro, Giant Sedona
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I understand the Artie Johnson fall over (done that) but I don't understand the "you could fall into traffic and die" warning? Why would I stop so close to rushing traffic that I could fall into it?
#46
Life is good
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Not far from the Withlacoochee Trail. 🚴🏻
Posts: 18,209
Bikes: 2018 Lynskey Helix Pro
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 522 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
10 Posts
I've noticed that in many of these club tomboy threads that the OP often doesn't mention what pedals s/he is using.
I started (many years ago) with SPD. Never really liked them. Then I switched to Look when I was "still young" (50s). Switched to SPD-SL in 2010 for the wider platform. As I got older (65+) many times it was hard for me to unclip quickly from the SPD-SL even at the lowest tension setting and I had one or two close calls. I switched to Speedplay Light Action in 2012. I'm now 70 and haven't had to worry about unclipping or close calls.
Just thought I'd add my 2¢.
I started (many years ago) with SPD. Never really liked them. Then I switched to Look when I was "still young" (50s). Switched to SPD-SL in 2010 for the wider platform. As I got older (65+) many times it was hard for me to unclip quickly from the SPD-SL even at the lowest tension setting and I had one or two close calls. I switched to Speedplay Light Action in 2012. I'm now 70 and haven't had to worry about unclipping or close calls.
Just thought I'd add my 2¢.
__________________
The Lord is merciful and gracious, slow to anger and abounding in steadfast love. - Psalm 103:8
I am a cyclist. I am not the fastest or the fittest. But I will get to where I'm going with a smile on my face.
The Lord is merciful and gracious, slow to anger and abounding in steadfast love. - Psalm 103:8
I am a cyclist. I am not the fastest or the fittest. But I will get to where I'm going with a smile on my face.
#47
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 80
Bikes: 2014 Specialized Secteur Elite, Trek "Discovery Channel" Road Bike, Diamondback Edgewood LX Hybrid
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I've noticed that in many of these club tomboy threads that the OP often doesn't mention what pedals s/he is using.
I started (many years ago) with SPD. Never really liked them. Then I switched to Look when I was "still young" (50s). Switched to SPD-SL in 2010 for the wider platform. As I got older (65+) many times it was hard for me to unclip quickly from the SPD-SL even at the lowest tension setting and I had one or two close calls. I switched to Speedplay Light Action in 2012. I'm now 70 and haven't had to worry about unclipping or close calls.
Just thought I'd add my 2¢.
I started (many years ago) with SPD. Never really liked them. Then I switched to Look when I was "still young" (50s). Switched to SPD-SL in 2010 for the wider platform. As I got older (65+) many times it was hard for me to unclip quickly from the SPD-SL even at the lowest tension setting and I had one or two close calls. I switched to Speedplay Light Action in 2012. I'm now 70 and haven't had to worry about unclipping or close calls.
Just thought I'd add my 2¢.
You obviously like them and I probably would too so what improvement will I experience if I go with Speed Play?
Thanks for your help.
#48
Life is good
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Not far from the Withlacoochee Trail. 🚴🏻
Posts: 18,209
Bikes: 2018 Lynskey Helix Pro
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 522 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
10 Posts
SPEEDPLAY : HIGH PERFORMANCE PEDALS
__________________
The Lord is merciful and gracious, slow to anger and abounding in steadfast love. - Psalm 103:8
I am a cyclist. I am not the fastest or the fittest. But I will get to where I'm going with a smile on my face.
The Lord is merciful and gracious, slow to anger and abounding in steadfast love. - Psalm 103:8
I am a cyclist. I am not the fastest or the fittest. But I will get to where I'm going with a smile on my face.
#49
www.ocrebels.com
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Los Angeles area
Posts: 6,186
Bikes: Several bikes, Road, Mountain, Commute, etc.
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
2 Posts
I've been riding clipless since '85 (starting with Aero-Lites . . . remember those?) and while I no longer have those, on various bikes I have SPD-SL's, SPD's, SPD-R's and Crank Bros. pedals and corresponding cleats.
While I have fallen down (zero mph) due to lack of timely un-clipment, it's been very rarely, maybe once every ten years. So, big picture, while there is some risk (mostly due to temporary brain fade and/or senior moment) having my shoes clipped to my pedals is overall worth the very slight added risk.
Rick / OCRR
While I have fallen down (zero mph) due to lack of timely un-clipment, it's been very rarely, maybe once every ten years. So, big picture, while there is some risk (mostly due to temporary brain fade and/or senior moment) having my shoes clipped to my pedals is overall worth the very slight added risk.
Rick / OCRR
#50
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 80
Bikes: 2014 Specialized Secteur Elite, Trek "Discovery Channel" Road Bike, Diamondback Edgewood LX Hybrid
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
There's no tension adjustment. They're called Light Action because they hold securely but if you need to unclip quickly its not problem. I'm 70 y/o and have been using them for 3 years. Never had a problem unclipping. And they're two sided so you don't have to look down to make sure they're flipped over. Just step down and click, you're in.
Thanks for your response.