After about 150 miles on my bike, I moved my saddle height up by 2cm from where the LBS had me at, and also changed the tilt from ~5 degrees nose down to level. How does this look? I felt okay during a 30 minute casual ride. More saddle pressure on the sit bones than before, but not uncomfortably so. Both legs measure around 140 degrees of knee extension at the bottom of the pedal stroke, so I think I'm in the ballpark.

Also, does my reach look okay? My arms look straight in the photos, but my elbows were definitely not locked out and I didn't feel like I had to stretch to reach the hoods. According to my measurements, my hip to upper arm angle is around 75 degrees and hip to wrist angle is 84 degrees. Thanks in advance!

Looks close.
Not a bad position for JRA (just riding along).

For a more aero (easier cutting thru that headwind) bend the elbows, lower chin toward stem.
Still comfortable?
OEM saddles are notoriously ill fitting.

Quick edit: How long is that stem? As you get more miles under your belt, that frame may not let you stretch out and relax. With as much seatpost as is showing (well, i'm estimating, not actually seeing), and uptilting stem = maybe a larger frame. But that's just a guess.

Thanks for your input. Here is a photo of the bike by itself. I haven't measured the seat post, but based on the geometry chart, my current saddle height is approximately 18cm above the end of the seat tube. The stock stem is 100mm with a 6 degree angle. It came flipped up, and the overall rise of the stem is 22.9 degrees. The bars are compact with a reach of around 85mm. Therefore, the stock cockpit is pretty short, and there should be room to add more reach if I need it.

This frame is a 56cm. The calculator at Competitive Cyclist recommends a 54cm frame for the Eddy and Competitive fit, or a 56cm for the French fit. Every other online calculator that I tried recommends a 56cm, so I am reasonably sure that a 56cm fits me. With the stem flipped up and 30mm of spacers, the saddle to bar is 4cm. Flipping the stem and removing all the spacers will drop the bars another 5cm.

My flexibility is quite poor currently, but I am working on it, so I hope to be able to gradually get into a more aero position. I can certainly bend my elbows and lower my torso for short periods now, but the more upright position in the photos is my default and most comfortable position.

As for the OEM saddle, it is a Fizik Arione R7. The cheapest retail Arione is the R5, so the R7 ranks below that, but surprisingly, it fits me quite well. It took some time to get used to the flat shape and firmness, but after the adjustment period, 3-4 hour rides have been no problem.

Sounds like you did the proper homework.
Ride it, you seem to know the options for dialing the fit.

Good luck, have fun, rubber side down.

Looks good.

Welcome to BF.

Try flattening your lower back by rolling your hips forward. That will take the curvature out of your upper back. That will also move your shoulders a bit forward. For me, a longer and flat stem would be better, maybe 2 cm. Try for a 90° angle between your upper arm and straighter torso.

Very helpful!

As the OP progresses on the bike and may want a lower position, there is always the option of removing spacers(s) from underneath the stem.
Looks like there may be a couple of 1cm ones on there.
Nothing to buy.
Easier than flipping stem and smaller incremental adjustments.

Yes, there are three 5mm spacers and one 15mm spacer below the stem, so I have 30mm of adjustment range in 5mm increments. However, I have a carbon fork, and from what I have read, I can't drop the stem by more than 5mm without cutting the steerer tube, which is a permanent change. (Cannondale actually warns against using any spacers above the stem, but I think 5mm should be safe, since this is often recommended). In contrast, flipping the stem is a massive 20mm change, but is reversible and only takes 5 minutes at home.

What is the order of the changes that you recommend? With the combination of one spacer and stem, I can drop 5mm, 20mm and 25mm without cutting the tube. More than 25mm (along with 10mm and 15mm) requires a cut.

Edit: After doing more research, it seems that the top cap is integrated with the expander plug, and is designed to be used with no spacers on top. Lots of Cannondale owners report no issues running spacers on top, though, so I think it is fine as long as I properly torque the stem bolts.

From what I understand, the expander plug should extend the length of the stem to support the clamping force the steerer from the stem . If you put spacers above the stem, it raises the expander and it doesn't extend all the way down past the stem so doesn't support the steerer against compressional forces . It may work, but the steerer may eventually fail.

The stem will be within the length of the extender plug with a 5mm spacer on top, but it looks like my plug works differently than the standard plug. The top cap is integrated into the plug and is part of the support system.

Here is what it looks like.

agree that the stem insert device is significant.
here's 2 pics of full carbon steerers i'm running.
i'll look for a pic of the 3rd. ahhhh, here is 1.

about 1 cm above stem on 2 bikes. wouldn't want more

Your saddle is too far backward (move it forward)..... I can see in both in the pic of the bike and see the rear of the saddle in the pics with you riding.

Moving the saddle center or even forward a little will allow you to more comfortably bend at the elbows.

Your form looks good.

I think your saddle looks a bit high. Toe down at bottom of the stroke, & leg is pretty straight.

This give good power, but limits higher cadence which is better overall.