Lowering stem height
#1
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From: Fort Worth, Texas
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Lowering stem height
I am finally getting around to making some changes.
I have my seat position close.
I am going to lower my stem height but I am not sure how much to do to start. Someone here looked at a pic of my bike and said it was really high. I bought it used and the previous owner had made a lot of changes.
Should I lower it all the way or just halfway to start?

I have my seat position close.
I am going to lower my stem height but I am not sure how much to do to start. Someone here looked at a pic of my bike and said it was really high. I bought it used and the previous owner had made a lot of changes.
Should I lower it all the way or just halfway to start?

#2
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What's high are the hoods! Rotate the bars forward in the clamp and you will instantly lower your position without removing a single spacer. Having the hoods of the brake levers angled ever so slightly upward is about right for most.
#3
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I'd say the stem is not high enough going by how high the bars are tilted...instead of 'fiddling' about and never getting it right I suggest going to a competent fitter and spending some money to get it done right...or else keep fiddling about, not my monkey, not my circus...
#4
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There's no way to know based on that one picture. How much higher are the handlebars than the saddle? Show the entire bike.
I agree with the previous comment about the angle of the handlebars. Tilt them down (forward) a bit.
I agree with the previous comment about the angle of the handlebars. Tilt them down (forward) a bit.
#5
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I just grabbed a pic I had on my phone. I have already rotated the bars. I will take a current pic today.
In another thread someone said my stack height was too high and probably causing me to sit in an almost upright position.
In another thread someone said my stack height was too high and probably causing me to sit in an almost upright position.
#6
That stack height is not uncommon.
#7
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#8
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Of course experiment! There's no right answer. In general, the lower you can comfortably get (belly can't be hitting your quads), the better. Not just for aero but also for your back. The further from upright one can get, the better your back will feel on a long ride. Compression is much worse than flexion. We don't lean forward on a bike just for aerodynamics.
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#9
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Of course experiment! There's no right answer. In general, the lower you can comfortably get (belly can't be hitting your quads), the better. Not just for aero but also for your back. The further from upright one can get, the better your back will feel on a long ride. Compression is much worse than flexion. We don't lean forward on a bike just for aerodynamics.
#10
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So they say. And IME it's the only thing that works. Small dinner portions, in particular. I eat between 1/4 and 1/3 of what I ate for dinner when I was 30. I cut back gradually and my stomach simply got used to it and doesn't complain. The blasted internal fat is much harder to get rid of than the external which sits on top of our stomach muscles.
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#11
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#12
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I'd say the stem is not high enough going by how high the bars are tilted...instead of 'fiddling' about and never getting it right I suggest going to a competent fitter and spending some money to get it done right...or else keep fiddling about, not my monkey, not my circus...

#13
Well, he did say that is another riders setup, but, you are probably right in the o.p.'s case as well. But ... no amount of money is going to get those bars any higher! So, hold on to your cash o.p. The stem can be flipped, and that will get some height, but any of the common solutions to too short steer tubes (stem extenders, high degree angle stems) are out of the question for a bike like that. Don't do it. Flip the stem, HTFU and try to look like a respectable MAMIL out on the tarmac, or sell the bike to someone who can work with its ergos. I know, I sound like a right hardass. I'm the furthest thing from that. LOL.


#14
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You're right and I answered that in my first post. Rotating the bars forward is going to lower the o.p.'s position. Likely enough, given their description of themselves. This, of course, assumes they are on the right size frame. My second post was in response to another poster and I thought I got it wrong the first time.
#15
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Usually I like to go too far for the first change. Then I know for certain what it feels like when out of whack to that extreme.
Consider lowering it all the way. Then if you don't start getting use to it after a dozen or more rides, raise it by half the initial change. Then if that is too much, lower by half the previous change.
Realize that even after you settle on the ideal place for you. At some point in the future, you might want to move them again.
You should also experiment with where you like your hoods. Many like them more pointed forward than up. But what ever is comfortable for you is what's more important However, if you aren't having any issues with hands and wrist, then don't worry about what we think.
Consider lowering it all the way. Then if you don't start getting use to it after a dozen or more rides, raise it by half the initial change. Then if that is too much, lower by half the previous change.
Realize that even after you settle on the ideal place for you. At some point in the future, you might want to move them again.
You should also experiment with where you like your hoods. Many like them more pointed forward than up. But what ever is comfortable for you is what's more important However, if you aren't having any issues with hands and wrist, then don't worry about what we think.
Last edited by Iride01; 11-25-24 at 08:53 AM.
#17
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#18
The top of my bars near the stem are only 1.5 inches below the top of the saddle. That's perfect for me: I can easily ride in the drops or on the hoods. The drops have better control on fast downhills, and are easier on my hands on very rough roads, since the load is spread out over my palm.
So many riders have their bars low, and so they rarely take advantage of the drops.
~~
Headset adjustment:
Park tool's repair guide has a detailed description.
This is easy once you understand how it works:
1. unscrew both the pinch bolts until they loose.
2. Lightly turn the top cap with a hex wrench -- this usually only needs a light touch with two fingers on the hex wrench. Tightening it transmits the force through the stem clamp and the spacers to the headset bearings.
3. Once they are adjusted correctly, the two pinch bolts are tightened, which locks the adjustment in place. At this point, the top cap is not affecting the bearings any more.
So many riders have their bars low, and so they rarely take advantage of the drops.
~~
Headset adjustment:
Park tool's repair guide has a detailed description.
This is easy once you understand how it works:
1. unscrew both the pinch bolts until they loose.
2. Lightly turn the top cap with a hex wrench -- this usually only needs a light touch with two fingers on the hex wrench. Tightening it transmits the force through the stem clamp and the spacers to the headset bearings.
3. Once they are adjusted correctly, the two pinch bolts are tightened, which locks the adjustment in place. At this point, the top cap is not affecting the bearings any more.
#19
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I think my saddle might beca little low. I have been concentrating on keeping the balks of my feet slightly ahead of the spindle and keeping my feet flat-ish.
in the pic it shows the top of my handlebars are higher than the top of my seat.


in the pic it shows the top of my handlebars are higher than the top of my seat.


#20
Saddle height:
A quick setting that should be reasonably good is this:
Put the bike in a doorway. Sit on the saddle, both feet on the pedals.
Now put one heel on the pedal, with your leg straight, but not straining to reach the pedal.
A good starting saddle height is where the heel is just touching the pedal. So then, when you pedal on the ball of the foot, your leg has a reasonable bend at the knee.
Ride that and see. then adjust slightly up or down from there if needed.
A quick setting that should be reasonably good is this:
Put the bike in a doorway. Sit on the saddle, both feet on the pedals.
Now put one heel on the pedal, with your leg straight, but not straining to reach the pedal.
A good starting saddle height is where the heel is just touching the pedal. So then, when you pedal on the ball of the foot, your leg has a reasonable bend at the knee.
Ride that and see. then adjust slightly up or down from there if needed.
#21
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From: Fort Worth, Texas
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Saddle height:
A quick setting that should be reasonably good is this:
Put the bike in a doorway. Sit on the saddle, both feet on the pedals.
Now put one heel on the pedal, with your leg straight, but not straining to reach the pedal.
A good starting saddle height is where the heel is just touching the pedal. So then, when you pedal on the ball of the foot, your leg has a reasonable bend at the knee.
Ride that and see. then adjust slightly up or down from there if needed.
A quick setting that should be reasonably good is this:
Put the bike in a doorway. Sit on the saddle, both feet on the pedals.
Now put one heel on the pedal, with your leg straight, but not straining to reach the pedal.
A good starting saddle height is where the heel is just touching the pedal. So then, when you pedal on the ball of the foot, your leg has a reasonable bend at the knee.
Ride that and see. then adjust slightly up or down from there if needed.
pedal on the balls of my feet-I use flat pedals for now.
#22
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Bikes: Tallboy, Domane, old 90s MTB beater/grocery-getter, and a couple of franken-gravel experiments based on the Sirrus x 5.0.
Well, he did say that is another riders setup, but, you are probably right in the o.p.'s case as well. But ... no amount of money is going to get those bars any higher! So, hold on to your cash o.p. The stem can be flipped, and that will get some height, but any of the common solutions to too short steer tubes (stem extenders, high degree angle stems) are out of the question for a bike like that. Don't do it. Flip the stem, HTFU and try to look like a respectable MAMIL out on the tarmac, or sell the bike to someone who can work with its ergos. I know, I sound like a right hardass. I'm the furthest thing from that. LOL.


#23
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From: Fort Worth, Texas
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix
#25
A member to remember
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 244
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From: Ventura County, CA
Bikes: Tallboy, Domane, old 90s MTB beater/grocery-getter, and a couple of franken-gravel experiments based on the Sirrus x 5.0.
I was replying to another poster with a picture of his lower bars. Mine are significantly higher (about even with my saddle) and I do indeed use a riser stem to achieve that. It's all a matter of what works best for you.




