a strange idea for fgfs.
#1
Thread Starter
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a strange idea for fgfs.
could you use the spacers below the bottom headset to make up for the 650 wheel? and could you go bmx and route the brake cable down through the headtube so it doesn't get tangled?
#4
moving target
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: birmingham, al
Bikes: looks like a specialized crux now
#5
moving target
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,952
Likes: 156
From: birmingham, al
Bikes: looks like a specialized crux now
why are you running a 650 wheel?
the spacers below the headset are going to create a flex point, and a spongy feeling. thats bad. might also just snap off. thats unlikly but impossible. not really a place i want to create extra stress.
#7
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Bikes: Serotta Colorado III Track (Renyolds Ouzo Pro Aero Fork, Dura-Ace to Mavic CXP-14 wheels, Sugino crank, Thomson and 3T the rest), Steelman Cyclocross (Campy Record 10, Deda Newton & Thomson stuff)
Seems easy enough to just take the brake off when doing tricks anyway though. That brake lever on the bars would get annoying.
#8
FSA makes a starnut/topcap that you can route a cable through. There are also several compression-type top caps that are hollow for cable routing.
I would actually prefer a threadless setup for front brake routing. My old setup was a PitA to keep running. I don't know how many quill wedges I broke.
The rear-brake trick is to use enough cable to get at least one barspin. It also nets you style, because you have to reverse the spin to untangle your cable during a line.
#10
The star nut would be the issue here, you'd have to file out a large enough hole in it or something, not totally unreasonable though. The brake cable looping back up to the brake might get in the way of spinning too. If you used the spacer idea the brake might be low enough not to hit, but the cable still might.
Seems easy enough to just take the brake off when doing tricks anyway though. That brake lever on the bars would get annoying.
Seems easy enough to just take the brake off when doing tricks anyway though. That brake lever on the bars would get annoying.
edit: ah yes i see
Last edited by NeilMonday; 02-17-08 at 01:19 PM.
#13
I really hope I never find myself "wanting" to do barspins. Maybe it is because I've never been into BMX or freestyle. Thankfully I've never sat up in bed in the middle of the night and thought, "Jesus christ, I need a smaller front wheel so I can do barspins!"
#16
Sometimes mountain bikers put spacers below the crown race to get down tube clearance for a long travel-fork. Or you could get a headset with a tall lower cup. Both of these would give you extra down tube clearance, but they would slacken your head tube angle.
#17
partly metal, partly real
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Philadelphia.
Bikes: Hummer H2
#19
What the heck is going on with that fork**********
#22
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From: Atlanta
Bikes: Zeus (Razesa) tarck, Giant TCR road, Eddy Merckx road, Fuji Touring Series IV for everything else
The problem with spacing out the bottom of the steer tube would really be the bearing race. You'd have to find some way to mount it to the top of the spacers. You could get a framebuilder to extend the headtube.
And I think the brake cable issue would be complicated by the little clearence between the fork and the tire. It needs a good amount of space to make a smooth curve.
I think these issues were solved by the BMW Gangster, and that bike is hideous. Luckily a few framebuilders are making cutouts for the front wheel so people can do barspins with normal geometry.
And I think the brake cable issue would be complicated by the little clearence between the fork and the tire. It needs a good amount of space to make a smooth curve.
I think these issues were solved by the BMW Gangster, and that bike is hideous. Luckily a few framebuilders are making cutouts for the front wheel so people can do barspins with normal geometry.






