Originally Posted by Joe Remi (Post 19946265)

I can't think of anything you're missing. Personally I think belt drive is for people with too much money using too much chain lube. I'd get the chain with easily changed gearing and not dowse it with lube like I'm trying to put out a fire.

Originally Posted by badmother (Post 19947153)

There is a lot in your post I can not answer to but I can say something about adding electric assist to a bike. I guess you already know becouse you have been using the electric front wheel on your NWT.

I converted an old steel bike some years ago. First the bike was converted from a two speed kick back sachs hub to a Nexus7 and set up for hauling a trailer and light touring. Can not remember gear inches and stuff but that is not important- the bike was suited for our legs, riding where we ride. Then I addad the electric wheel and the gearing was suddenly way off. We now use only the "heavyest" gear, the rest is unsuitable. (I need to fix that bike soon... )

What I am trying to say is that you may find a SS to be not suited unless you ride wit e-assist only (no pedaling) when you use the share roller and then pedal only when the roller is not in use. this is what came to my mind when reading about your plans.

I know you want light, but did you look into a SA 5 speed hub at almost the same weight as a 3 speed SA hub? Other options is a Brompton 2 speed rear hub with three cogs on it, you can get the cogs in Ti.

edit: About your saddle: Since you now have a comfy but heavy Brooks. What about transfering the leather top to a Titanium brooks frame? Can you still get frames as spare parts like you could in the past?

Originally Posted by invisiblehand (Post 19947315)

Make sure that the OLD will match the possibility of swapping to an IGH.

If you go with chain drive but think you might want to go belt later, you might want to include the necessary rear triangle differences if you change you mind later.

Small changes in gearing is not bad as long as there is enough space in the drop outs in the starting position. That is, changing the rear cog one tooth up or down should definitely be in range of most sliding drop outs. Maybe two teeth? I'm not sure but I imagine the BF folks could explain in detail. But my experience with belt drive on the Strida is that it's a meaningful upgrade.

Originally Posted by 1nterceptor (Post 19947469)

I have 2 Bromptons(2013 6speed, straight bar & 201? 3 speed, M/curved bar) and 1 Bike Friday pakiT(2017 8 speed der.).

Some thoughts:
1. Chain vs. belt. I went with chain for ease of gearing change, chainring/cassette. I already have a few 130 BCD rings laying around
from my Bromptons. As well as chains. Weight, belt might be lighter than a chain but if you compare the rings/sprockets - they're (much)thicker.
So I'm assuming they will be heavier than their skinnier chain counterparts. So lighter belt; heavier rings? Then you have price to consider; the
belt combo will be more expensive.
2. pakiT can be ordered with 165mm cranks; which is what I have.
3. Used Brompton(US$800/around 25lbs.?)) vs. new Pakit(US$1,100/19.29lbs (8.75kg)). Following your posts; I don't see where the compact fold
of the Brompton will help you much. I do see you mention a lot that you want something lighter. And you post about playing w/ the gearing; for this
reasons - I'd recommend the pakiT over a Brompton.

Originally Posted by Joe Remi (Post 19947537)

Hmm, you said "Brompton not a consideration at all", then changed to considering a 2-speed Brompton. If this is potentially your last bike and you're willing to spend some cash, you might want to consider going bananas with an S2-X with the titanium fork and rear triangle. There's a limited model just out now derived from former British racer David Millar's clothing brand labeled CHPT3. It's pretty sweet.

Originally Posted by linberl (Post 19947557)

Yeah, I waffled there a minute, but it would take a lot of work to make it comfortable....aber hallo, new cranks, etc. So while they are definitely pretty, paying over 2 grand to still be around 21-22 lbs doesn't make sense to me, especially with having to do aftermarket stuff. I remembered why I didn't get one the first time. But they are pretty....sigh.

Originally Posted by Joe Remi (Post 19947611)

Check it out. I'm not getting one, either, but it's so cool!

https://portapedalbike.com/catalog/b...oon-pre-order/

Originally Posted by badmother (Post 19947825)

just a quick search and this came up:https://www.bicycleworkshop.co.uk/m2...ks-Spare-Parts. You`ll find the best solution how to buy, local LBS or ordering online. You can buy rivets too. there is several different rivets I think i remember. You can search Bikeforums for threads on this too.



I understand this but my experience is that if you just do it often enough there is no problem really. There are some things that is useful to learn to deal with it, like using two nuts on the toggle chain and tighten them against eachother or use locktite. that way it`ll stay adjusted when disconected so just scmack scmack it back together :thumb:. Also there is the "patching without remowing the wheel method and then there is the "two tubes in one wheel, just pump up the other one" solution. Also it looks like those "solid (foam) tyres are getting better and better. Bottles, yes they can damage more than just bike tyres. During the shootings in Vegas what I was looking at was all the bottles lying on the ground. I was staring at them, wondering how many of them was glass and how much damage they did on top of all the damage done by the madman...



If you can make a B fit it is a solid and easy solution. It is not uncommon to use a quick release for twisting the handlebars for a better fold for peopel who use non stock bars. You could start with just twisting the M bars towards you, maybe that is all you need. One of the good things about the B is all the aftermarked parts to costumize and bling out (if you want bling) the bike. You can spend some money on TI to reduce weight. Also if you want a different drivetrain the parts is awailable. I bet it is possible to build a 2 speed Packit too.

You could have a spare rear wheel with a gear hub or something too- possible for both bikes. Easyer cheaper and takes up less space than having two bikes and still fleksible.

If you end up getting the Brompton I would look into getting an older alu framed back pack from a second hand shop. They are super light and you can strap the bike to it and carry it on your back, using two sholders instead of one.

If you get the packiT I suggest you look into ordering it with the Brompton luggage option.

Keep us updated. This is exiting ;)

Originally Posted by linberl (Post 19947915)

While I do love the look, I think the Brompton is out. I'd have to spend over 2 grand to get down to 21-22 lbs and then spend more to make it fit me :-(. I think the weight matters more than a 2d gear to me. I just came back from a ride and I didn't shift once...a little momentum, some fast spinning and some slow mashing.
BUT - your idea of a second wheel is genius!!! And it's something I can do as the need arises, assuming it does, and for far less than a titanium Brompton. I'm also reading up on White Industries dual freewheel (one freewheel with two sets of cogs on it!). There also might be some other cool options out there if I keep looking. But I'm thinking a super light <18lb ss is the best start.
As for the motor, there are lots of single speed ebikes out there (in fact, most of the ebikes guys build on endless sphere are ss). So I'm confident I can figure the gearing out.
The Pakit is sweet in it's own way, not as classic or elegant as the Brompton, but I do like it.

Originally Posted by badmother (Post 19948052)

Nope, but we have TV in the old world too- and internet :thumb:




Maybe you can use Brompton cogs, even Ti cogs on that freewheel. Nine spline?




Where you live it looks like you are allowed to use a e-bike as a scooter, ride on E-assist only so it makes sense. Maybe a fair amount of those builders look at it as transport- and it happends to be a bike and therefor they do not bother about gears. Here the rules are you need to pedal to get E-assist. A bike rebuilt into a E-scooter neds to register as a E-scooter (and stay out of bike lanes) so different rules and maybe more hills here.

It is all about your needs and where you live so you are the best judge and I think you know what you are doing :thumb:

Originally Posted by Joe Remi (Post 19948081)

Yes, the ShareRoller will eliminate much need for gears if you're already doing well with one speed. I have a Rivendell with a mid-drive kit: That design requires some shifting to keep the pedals spinning and avoid overheat, but I still only use the top 4 gears most of the time.

For your application I would shoot for one gear you're happy riding on flats, and think of the ShareRoller as the downshift for hills..forget trying to finagle 2 speeds in there. The trick will be to keep the front chainring big enough that you won't be constantly spinning out on the power. Personally I'd start with the stock setup and make any future gearing decisions after you've installed the e-kit.

Originally Posted by fietsbob (Post 19949270)

Just an aside, You should specify a cold forged crank , or they may use a cast crankarm set..
the 2nd hand Tikit, spontaneously seemed to lose the pedal threads, in the cost saving cast crank, *

Fortunately, I had an old D-A square taper crank set, in my parts bin, , so I put it on
and recycled the metal in the original , cast, aluminum one..

* guy I got it from sent some money, back, 'beer money' for while I was working out the bugs..

Given the choice, I'd specify the belt ready feature, even if you go for the chain drive initially ,
since the stay opening feature (To let the belt pass thru), is only able to done in building it..



...

Originally Posted by linberl (Post 19947342)

"Meaningful upgrade" because of no grease or noise or is there some other reason? I keep my NWT chain clean and properly lubed so it's quiet and I wipe it after lube dries so it's not that messy. Is there some other benefit I'm unaware of?

Originally Posted by invisiblehand (Post 19949625)

It doesn't sound like much -- my ex ante feeling was that it was no big deal -- but over the past five years the clean and maintenance free characteristics of belt drive has been a meaningful plus for a utility bike that I want to grab at a moments notice and simply ride. The clean aspect is really nice for folding and taking into crowded situations (Metro) and placing the bike into trunks, corners, coat checks, closets, and so on.

For clarity, the belt is relatively clean without grease, but there is still some dirt on it. I'm not sure it's worth $400 but I'd seriously consider it on any new bike. In my case, it would depend on what it's being used for. The more utilitarian the bike it, the more likely I'd pay for one.

If it matters, I do all of my own maintenance but I'm at a time of my life where time and attention is the big constraint.