Hi guys,

I know this question has probably been asked countless times.

I have a regular bike and my dad has offered to lend me his fold up bike (managed to buy it second hand online). I commute a long commute to London filled with packed trains, tubes and walking. Most mornings I can get a lift to the station as someone in my family drives past early enough although the way back. As I’m a nurse I do long days added with a long commute - I chose this job as it’s what I want to do. Although I’ve discovered that busses are awkward where I live and I can end up waiting an hour for a bus at 9/10pm which isn’t brilliant after a 13 hour shift.

For those days I don’t get dropped off a regular bike is a no brainier, lock it up at the station and there for when I get back. For those days I get dropped off a fold up bike is ideal as I can grab it in the car. Although, locking it up at the station (as the commute is so busy and apparently it wouldn’t be amazing for taking back and forth for over an hour) would it be possible to lock it up and what’s the best way as im a complete newbie to all of this

thank you so much!! .

If the bike is inexpensive, presumably you can risk leaving it locked up by the station. You normally want to pass the lock through a part of the frame that forms a closed loop. If it is possible, pass the lock also through a wheel. You may add a steel cable with loops at the end and use to secure the other wheel and saddle. You pass one of the loops of the cable through the lock too. Remember that a steel cable provides next to zero protection. It may be good enough to protect a bike that nobody wants, but a folder will be always a bit more valued that nominally similar quality regular bike. For us Abus locks below worked well with folders that we cared about not being stolen.



Granit CityChain X-Plus 1060


Bordo Granit X-Plus 6400


Bordo Granit X-Plus 6500

The folding locks are easily broken with a nut splitter under a minute.

Why don't you simply fold the bike and carry it onto the bus with you to work? Where I live, folding bikes are allowed on all modes of transportation for free as long as there is enough space inside.

U locks are more reliable but it depends on the model. Some testers show that the highest rated U locks from the different manufacturers take quite a while to cut through, and that you usually need to cut both sides to be able to remove them. The highest level bike U lock from Abus is the Granit x 540 and it optionally comes with the Eazy KF holder that is very convenient to mount on the folding handlebar post. Sadly, the Lock Picking Lawyer hasn't tested this one even though it's highly requested.

There are lots of different review sites that test things like sawing or angle grinder with varying results. You could do a google search for them.

The ones that the Lock Picking Lawyer tested with a press that didn't break are the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit and the OnGuard 17mm Brute, although a press is mechanically different than using an abrasive tool.

Most guides will tell you to take 2 U locks, one for the front wheel to the downtube, and the other for the rear wheel to the seat tube and the bike stand (for normal sized bikes). But for folding bikes there is no way to secure the front wheel to the frame or the rear wheel to the seat tube with a U lock because of the geometry of the bike. So you'll need multiple locks if you also want to secure the wheels.

It's not easy sometimes to find a good angle to pass the U lock through the locking post and the folding bike frame because the shortness and smallness of the rear triangle, but I usually try to get the U lock through the seat stays. I then use a Hexlox security skewer bolt on my wheels, although possibly easily defeated, but deters thieves when there are other easier bikes around with quick release skewers. There are other probably better ones from Pitlock, Pinhead, Abus, Zefals, etc, that use special keys or gravity feed to secure the bolt. Some of them also have locks for the seat post to replace the quick release lever, but it does make it take longer to fold the bike if you need to lower the seat tube to do so.

If I am going to leave my bike out for longer than 30 minutes, then in addition to the U-lock through my seat stays, I also have a cable lock that passes through my saddle and rear wheel. It could also pass through the front wheel if I fold the bike first. Although cables are very easy to cut under a few seconds, I assume the combination of it along with the Hexlox would slow down a thief enough that they wouldn't bother with it. I do have a second cable that I could use for the front wheel in case I definitely need to leave the bike out for longer. But again, cables are easy to cut in a few seconds. The wheels still need another form of lock.

The other best thing to do if you definitely have to leave the bike outside for a long time is to park it near other bikes with weaker locks or that have quick release levers.

I also wouldn't leave it outside overnight because that's when thieves are most active and least passerby's to deter them. When I'm camping, I actually fold the bike and but it in my tent vestibule so that it's not visible from outside the tent. I then pass the lock through the wheels so that if someone does unzip my tent to take the bike, they still have to carry it and won't be able to roll it.


Also, the Lock Picking Lawyer made a clip recommending the Kryptonite Evolution Chain Lock, stating that he thought that the chain made it difficult for an angle grinder to press against due to the instability of it. But it is pretty heavy, 2.7kg, and I don't know how you can store it on a bike while riding except to carry it in a bag, or wrapping it around the downtube or handlepost, but it would probably jingle a lot.

Amazingly enough, this image was on the Abus bike locks website; the annotations are mine. The way Abus locked it, the folding bike could be stolen with a hex wrench.

I will continue to risk my Brompton with Abus 6500 then. Given that in the field you have no luxury of a vise, it seems good enough. Maybe I should make sure it never rests too close to any pavement, to allow the tools to be operated against it.

That's completely absurd to carry a bike to London and back, go on different modes of transportation, just to provide the security for the bike. The bike would become completely pointless then, a hassle, not convenience.


There are no locks providing absolute protection. The goal is to strike a balance between bike value, theft frequency in the surrounding and inconvenience in locking, hopefully getting to a point where chances of the theft are such that one live with it and absorb the loss if the bike or some part of it gets stolen.

You don't need a vice to break the folding lock with a nut splitter. The bike and stand will hold the folding lock and prevent it from spinning as you simply turn the ratcheting wrench. The nut splitter stays on from friction. it costs a few dollars and fits in the pants pocket.

Taking a bike on the train or bus is convenient and possibly thousands of people do it every day in the city that I live in. Each train car allows up to 4 bikes outside of peak times. Folding bikes get on at any time. All bikes are free on local trains. Bikes cost money on long distance trains except for folded bikes. Every train I take I've seen at least 2 bikes onboard and sometimes up to 6 bikes.

Let's take a theoretical example. You live 20 minutes on foot to the train station. Take a 45 minute ride inside. And then another 15 minute walk to the final destination. This is 35 minutes of walking each way for 70 minutes walking for the whole trip. Instead if you take your bike with you onto the train, it would be on average 4 to 5 times faster and only take you 15 minutes with a bike instead of 70 minutes walking.


Alternatively at an old job, it was a 25 minute trip by bus including walking and waiting time, or 35 minutes with traffic jam. Taking the bike the entire way was 30 minutes so I rode the bike whenever the weather was good. Then I stored the folding bike under the work desk.

Thank you everyone for responding all the ideas on locks is really helpful. Although, as the underground’s are very cramped in-even with my backpack I struggle sometimes-as realistically I don’t have a lot of time to wait for tube after tube to fit in (struggles of travelling on the underground in peak times). Due to lack of parking and not relying on others to pick me up from the station, it’s ideal to fit in the car getting dropped off and being able to ride back.

I can attempt taking it but if it means being late it’s not the best option for me. I have to at least stay at my current job for a year.

thank you all so much for all your advice to a newbie!

Buy 2 or 3 of these bikes. They are relatively inexpensive, but folders with gears and a rack none-the-less:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q7EE928...jaz10cnVl&th=1

Then buy what ever locks you want to try and give your idea of locking the bike up at the station a try. When the first one gets stolen get out the second one and try different locks. If you only had 2 bikes, order a third while you are on the second bike. That way when bike #2 gets stolen you have #3 ready to try.

As to how to get home when the bikes do disappear - not sure on that one, but at least having a back-up ready to go the next day would be good.

Best of luck.

Review from Amazon on this lock - 14mm chain version:
https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Chain-Bicycle-Evolution/dp/B001KQ5ZRG/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=kryptonite+bike+lock&psc=1&qid=1571931969&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-10

"Bought this for my son to lock his bike at college, in the rack at his dorm. Second night it was cut by a thief and bike was stolen. I realize now it was a poor choice, and should have gone for the solid U-shaped lock instead of this."

Click on the 1 star ratings for the above product page and you'll find the poor reviews. Most of the bad ones are the lock mechanism jamming up. However, there are lubricants you can use to mitigate that issue.

I've had a cable lock cut while shopping. What a pain.

So, if I'm concerned about security, I use the Kryptonite NY lock. Still not impenetrable, but generally requires it to be cut, either torch cut or grinder cut.

Yeah, same thoughts with my Bike Friday. For the ambitious thief, it would be easy enough to remove the handlebars, and potentially slip the lock down the frame and around the fork (note the Birdy uses a suspension fork).

I normally lock the Bike Friday up through the rear triangle, cutting a diagonal through the triangle and wheel so I think it is more or less trapped by the tubes. The cable guide is also a potential target for the lock, but not as big as the triangle on the Birdy.

Each bike is a little different.

Could you tell how it was cut?

With bicycles always some part can be stolen with the right wrench...

It's funny bike nerdery to think what screws you would have to unlock to steal the bike. But in practice I don't think it makes a difference. If someone has enough time to remove your fork without destroying the bike, then there would be more than enough time to destroy the lock.

I sold a few bikes to students in my day. Advice was always the same - show them how to remove the front wheel, and tell them to take the front wheel with them to class when they lock their bike.

Rationale is that bikes are easy targets since they can be ridden away once a lock is broken. Unless your thief carries an extra front wheel, it won't be ridden away any time soon, and therefore a less attractive target. Everything left locked can still get stolen, but less risk. This applies to folders as well as non-folders.

Why use a lock at all, then? Just hold the two ends of your security chain together with a bolt and nut, henceforth called the 'ladi method'.

For me it's not practical because the tires are so dirty. When I go visit the dentist or doctor, I won't be able to take it into the office with me because I'd turn their carpet black, or my dirty hands will get the stuff all over their furniture. I also don't use a shopping cart when I go to the supermarket, I simply put the goods into my panniers. But if I did take a cart, I don't think the employees would like me to dirty their carts with a tire. I remember one time in the past when I put the folded bike into the cart, but they didn't seem happy about it. Another time at a different place, they wanted to put a sticker on it and record the items attached to the bike in case security later suspects me of shoplifting if they thought my bike or components came from their store.

Also, since Dahon bikes use 74mm dropouts, I have to deflate my tires each time I want to remove the wheel from the frame. I'd have to reinflate the tire each time after I put the wheel back in.

Today I was cleaning the new wheels that I just built and installed, and the brake pads and rims were extremely dirty, much more than the old rims, after only 1 week of use. I suspect it's because the new rims are 26mm inner width compared to the old rim with 19mm inner width, so the sidewall and brakes are much closer to the outer edge of the tire and so picks up more dirt.

Normally I carry 1 U-lock to attach to the frame all the time and 1 cable lock through the rear wheel which I sometimes use. I have security skewers on the wheels, which are easily defeated. I'm rethinking how I lock my bike, and I might add a 2nd U lock of a different brand for the rear wheel (but through the rear triangle). So if they'd have to get through 2 locks at the rear to steal the frame. I would then use a cable lock for the front wheel, and I assume it's not worth a thief's time to cut the cable and defeat the security skewer just to steal the front wheel.

That wasn't my review I quoted. It was just one I came across. I didn't read all of them, either, so go back to the link and read through for yourself. There could be more reports of theft in there that I didn't see. The most common "issue" though was the lock mechanism fouling up - which could be alleviated with lubrication.

Kryptonite has always had reliability issues.

I haven't used them in the elements before so I can't vouch one way or the other. I have an old heavy cable Kryptonite lock (braided cable in a vinyl sleeve, maybe 3/4 - 7/8" diameter cable inside the sleeve) that uses a round cylinder style key. Its probably 15-20 years old and works fine.

I spent about 8 months on the road in a semi and had a Pelican case behind the cab that I kept some gear in. The locks I had fouled up with the road grit and salt over the winter. So I researched locks and got some MasterLoc 6121 locks. They have rubber boots over the shackle where it goes in to the body of the lock and there is a hard rubber cap that seals off the lock mechanism. For harsh condition locks they are the best I've ever used. However, being a conventional padlock design they are susceptible to tamper. I never had a problem with my box on the truck, but just like everyone else that locks stuff up - we're all a bit at risk no matter what kind of locking device we use and for what we're locking up. The best defense is to not leave something where thieves can get to it/where it would be visible and attract the attention of thieves.

Decent bike is too much a target left at a station for any length of time regardless of lock.
Heavy lock left attached to the rack if used frequently is an idea, but may get removed by authorities as litter. ? label with an address tag, and move it from time to time.
but a decent heavy lock will cost as much as an inexpensive bike, and weigh close to it.
If you are having to disassemble the bike to secure it , you are in the wrong place with a bad idea. Rethink things.

and I would advise that bike theft is a vice
@ tomtomtom123 "You don't need a vice to break the folding lock with a nut splitter."

If you are out with a friend and a lion attacks , you do not need to run faster than the lion , just your friend.
Holds for bike security better than any other advice. don't be the most attractive target.

Nothing is quite as invigorating as a bike ride after a double shift.
But I have never fallen asleep when biking, either.