Downtube folding bike
#1201
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I would be riding more than 5 miles perhaps 2-3 times a year, maximum. Mostly this would be for tootling around both at the track, and when I travel or go to an event where it would make sense to bring it along. My legs are short for my height - only a 32 inch inseam - so my fitment issues are likely not from the frame or seat height but from the stem extension, and for that I could purchase a different handlebar stem. However, since these models have the extensions on the end of the handlebars, that makes up for some of it as well.
#1202
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Wow, with 32" inseam, you may be OK. And for just tooting around the racetrack, the Mini may be OK, too.
The Mini is the only one that doesn't have a telescoping handlebar. That's why I suggested it.
The Mini is the only one that doesn't have a telescoping handlebar. That's why I suggested it.
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Yeah, let's just say I have a long torso...the inseam is technically 33", but...
The mini for sure will fit, but if I want to ride it around Maui when we go there, I'm only able to do so on the streets, and only short distances, not go to nearby beaches (which I probably can't do anyway since the bike will get lifted when I'm in the water, huh?). And rather than a Mini, I'd probably go with the Dahon Curve if I did a 16" bike...seems quite compact and well designed.
The mini for sure will fit, but if I want to ride it around Maui when we go there, I'm only able to do so on the streets, and only short distances, not go to nearby beaches (which I probably can't do anyway since the bike will get lifted when I'm in the water, huh?). And rather than a Mini, I'd probably go with the Dahon Curve if I did a 16" bike...seems quite compact and well designed.
#1204
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The Curve looks like an interesting bike. I just wish that they would put a Downtube-like hinge on their bikes.
One guy on this forum toured for 100s of miles on a mini, and I'm sure the same is possible on a Curve. And, yes, it will probably get lifted while you are in the water. So, you'll have to ask someone to watch it.
I thought someone with a name like Teutonic would like a German bike.
Hey Sesame, do you have any of the old headsets around, or did you regrease all of them? I'm wondering what the crown race width is on the stock one...
Thanks!
Peter
One guy on this forum toured for 100s of miles on a mini, and I'm sure the same is possible on a Curve. And, yes, it will probably get lifted while you are in the water. So, you'll have to ask someone to watch it.
I thought someone with a name like Teutonic would like a German bike.
Hey Sesame, do you have any of the old headsets around, or did you regrease all of them? I'm wondering what the crown race width is on the stock one...
Thanks!
Peter
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Originally Posted by pm124
Stelvios will give you a very harsh ride, though. They feel like steel on 20" wheels. The
#1206
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Originally Posted by pm124
Hey Sesame, do you have any of the old headsets around, or did you regrease all of them? I'm wondering what the crown race width is on the stock one...
Peter
Peter
#1207
Senior Member
Sesame, how's that DT recumbent conversion, being front wheel drive compares to your rear wheel drive recumbent? Any pro's and cons about front vs. rear wheel drive?
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
#1208
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Originally Posted by DVC45
Sesame, how's that DT recumbent conversion, being front wheel drive compares to your rear wheel drive recumbent? Any pro's and cons about front vs. rear wheel drive?
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
- FWD has "pedal steer", where your pedaling motion can directly affect the steering;
- FWD supposedly is more efficient bio-mechanically than rear wheel drive recumbents due to a better ability to "pull on the bars" while pedaling.
- FWD is coooool. So there!
I'm sure FWD and RWD fans will debate this into infinity. For more info on FWD riding, you can go www.cruzbike.com, there are some references there.
#1209
Senior Member
Originally Posted by SesameCrunch
DVC45: I only have the front wheel drive recumbent, I don't own a rear wheel one, so, I can't do a direct comparison. But, there are pretty significant differences in the two. Too much to go into here, but the highlights are:
- FWD has "pedal steer", where your pedaling motion can directly affect the steering;
- FWD supposedly is more efficient bio-mechanically than rear wheel drive recumbents due to a better ability to "pull on the bars" while pedaling.
- FWD is coooool. So there!
I'm sure FWD and RWD fans will debate this into infinity. For more info on FWD riding, you can go www.cruzbike.com, there are some references there.
- FWD has "pedal steer", where your pedaling motion can directly affect the steering;
- FWD supposedly is more efficient bio-mechanically than rear wheel drive recumbents due to a better ability to "pull on the bars" while pedaling.
- FWD is coooool. So there!
I'm sure FWD and RWD fans will debate this into infinity. For more info on FWD riding, you can go www.cruzbike.com, there are some references there.
I thought I saw your post at the bent forum that you have an RWD one. Its probably someone else's. My bad.
Any probs you ran into during the conversion process? Was it a pretty straight forward task i.e. no machining or intricate engineering skills involved?
#1210
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Originally Posted by DVC45
Thanks!
Any probs you ran into during the conversion process? Was it a pretty straight forward task i.e. no machining or intricate engineering skills involved?
Any probs you ran into during the conversion process? Was it a pretty straight forward task i.e. no machining or intricate engineering skills involved?
The build was not bad. It does require some creative problem solving because every donor bike is different and the kit can only accommodate so much variety. The documentation was a little outdated and that contributed to some head-scratching and teeth grinding. And, I had to get about $100 worth of additional parts, tools, etc.
Overall, it was an enjoyable experience, and the finished result is quite a conversation piece, especially with the child in the back. I think my bike has since spawned about 4 or 5 other similar builds. Kinda fun.
My biggest disappointment is that I had built this to do a double century this May (my first), but I don't think I'm going to be able to build up my 'bent legs in time. So, I'll be riding my trusty Lemond Zurich for the 200 miles (ouch).
#1211
Senior Member
Anyone got a close up pics on a Surly Singleator installed on VIIIH?
Anyone got a pic of a VIIIH that has a singleator installed?
Please post 'em, mighty please!
I can't seem to figure out how it should go in. Do I need to buy a derailer hanger?
Thanks!
Please post 'em, mighty please!
I can't seem to figure out how it should go in. Do I need to buy a derailer hanger?
Thanks!
#1212
Senior Member
Originally Posted by SesameCrunch
If it required maching or intricate engineering, that would have ruled me out.
The build was not bad. It does require some creative problem solving because every donor bike is different and the kit can only accommodate so much variety. The documentation was a little outdated and that contributed to some head-scratching and teeth grinding. And, I had to get about $100 worth of additional parts, tools, etc.
Overall, it was an enjoyable experience, and the finished result is quite a conversation piece, especially with the child in the back. I think my bike has since spawned about 4 or 5 other similar builds. Kinda fun.
My biggest disappointment is that I had built this to do a double century this May (my first), but I don't think I'm going to be able to build up my 'bent legs in time. So, I'll be riding my trusty Lemond Zurich for the 200 miles (ouch).
The build was not bad. It does require some creative problem solving because every donor bike is different and the kit can only accommodate so much variety. The documentation was a little outdated and that contributed to some head-scratching and teeth grinding. And, I had to get about $100 worth of additional parts, tools, etc.
Overall, it was an enjoyable experience, and the finished result is quite a conversation piece, especially with the child in the back. I think my bike has since spawned about 4 or 5 other similar builds. Kinda fun.
My biggest disappointment is that I had built this to do a double century this May (my first), but I don't think I'm going to be able to build up my 'bent legs in time. So, I'll be riding my trusty Lemond Zurich for the 200 miles (ouch).
200mi! Ouch, indeed!
#1213
Full Member
I recently got a second DT VIIIH for my wife so we can travel with them.
As with my first one, I replaced the BB and crankset, this time using the sealed Nashbar BB, and again using a used Shimano 105 39/53 crankset with the teeth filed off the 53 to make a chainguard. Cost about $35.
Replacing the BB was very easy on this bike, nothing over-torqued and BB threads as clean as could be.
Minor parts changes from my earlier 2006 1/2 version. The rear fender is now plastic, and the folding pedals are now plastic, similar to most other DT models. I think the seat is slightly improved as well. Overall I am very happy with the bikes once you get a 39-tooth chainring in front.
I almost bought a Swift, but decided that it would be best to have two nearly identical bikes for travel. I have a Samsonite Oyster for my bike, but will probably get the F'lite for hers. It is a tight squeeze to get one into the Oyster.
I'll try and post some pictures soon, but the new one looks pretty much like the old one. I am experimenting with moving the rear fender to the front wheel and making a rear fender that jams under the rack out of corroplast from used campaign signs.
As with my first one, I replaced the BB and crankset, this time using the sealed Nashbar BB, and again using a used Shimano 105 39/53 crankset with the teeth filed off the 53 to make a chainguard. Cost about $35.
Replacing the BB was very easy on this bike, nothing over-torqued and BB threads as clean as could be.
Minor parts changes from my earlier 2006 1/2 version. The rear fender is now plastic, and the folding pedals are now plastic, similar to most other DT models. I think the seat is slightly improved as well. Overall I am very happy with the bikes once you get a 39-tooth chainring in front.
I almost bought a Swift, but decided that it would be best to have two nearly identical bikes for travel. I have a Samsonite Oyster for my bike, but will probably get the F'lite for hers. It is a tight squeeze to get one into the Oyster.
I'll try and post some pictures soon, but the new one looks pretty much like the old one. I am experimenting with moving the rear fender to the front wheel and making a rear fender that jams under the rack out of corroplast from used campaign signs.
#1214
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Fellow Traveler
Originally Posted by Pine Cone
I have a Samsonite Oyster for my bike, but will probably get the F'lite for hers. It is a tight squeeze to get one into the Oyster.
I'll try and post some pictures soon, but the new one looks pretty much like the old one.
I'll try and post some pictures soon, but the new one looks pretty much like the old one.
#1215
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Originally Posted by WrencherWOAC
I think a pedal with a allen wrench removal beats a folding pedal any day, but that's just me.
Originally Posted by Pine Cone
39/53 crankset with the teeth filed off the 53 to make a chainguard.
Each to their own....
Good to know about the changes Downtube is making thanks Pine.
Last edited by Baldone; 03-27-07 at 03:03 PM.
#1216
Full Member
Originally Posted by Baldone
What! I love riding in the 53! You can go so fast!
The 39x23 gives me a range of 33.9 to 103.4 gear inches, and were I live there are enough hills that the low end is more important than the high end. I'd never make it back up the hill near my house without a sub-40 inch gear when I'm in my end-of-winter out-of-shape body.
#1217
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You can pull another pound off the bike by going with Schwalbe Stelvios / small tubes. I think the savings per tire over the shipped tires with the IXNS was around 250g (150g tube, 460g tire vs. 100g + 200g). PS - you've already seen some of the detailed weights someone else had posted?
Yes, I used the weights as an initial guide. They were also very close to the weights I got for the same items.
Loch several questions.
Where did you get your Dahon quill? (model number? on doing a search I saw a few different available.)
The dahon quill is off of my old speed pro, I have a new one on order from thorusa.com
Is it any shorter or taller than the stem it replaced?
It is taller by quite-a-bit
Is the top diameter the same size?
No, it is a 1 inch
How much more reach do you think it gave you (because of the angle) over the stock stem?
about 1- 1.5 inches (25-40 mm)
Thanks.
Where did you get your Dahon quill? (model number? on doing a search I saw a few different available.)
The dahon quill is off of my old speed pro, I have a new one on order from thorusa.com
Is it any shorter or taller than the stem it replaced?
It is taller by quite-a-bit
Is the top diameter the same size?
No, it is a 1 inch
How much more reach do you think it gave you (because of the angle) over the stock stem?
about 1- 1.5 inches (25-40 mm)
Thanks.
The IXFrontSusp. has a longer frame.
(Thanks for posting info & fotos!)
(Thanks for posting info & fotos!)
Loch, by the way, your bike is awesome - great mods! Looks fantastic
#1218
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Originally Posted by Pine Cone
Do you have the internal hub or regular derailleur version? With the SA 8-speed hub a 53 x 23 combination runs from 46 to 140 gear inches, the high gear being equivalent to a 64x12 with 700c wheels (a conventional road bike), or a 77x11 on a DT IXNS.
The 39x23 gives me a range of 33.9 to 103.4 gear inches, and were I live there are enough hills that the low end is more important than the high end. I'd never make it back up the hill near my house without a sub-40 inch gear when I'm in my end-of-winter out-of-shape body.
The 39x23 gives me a range of 33.9 to 103.4 gear inches, and were I live there are enough hills that the low end is more important than the high end. I'd never make it back up the hill near my house without a sub-40 inch gear when I'm in my end-of-winter out-of-shape body.
Now 64x12 is fast! My bad, I didn't look carefully enough at what you were working with and thought you had a derailleur. Which is what I have. Point well taken!
Loch
Thanks for the info.
Last edited by Baldone; 03-28-07 at 03:40 PM.
#1219
Part-time epistemologist
In my new quest for a small folder, I wondered whether the Nashbar front rack would fit on a mini. Anyone have any good guesses? Do you think it would impede the fold at all?
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...cat%3A%20Racks
I have been staring the new Dahon Curve but would really like the wide gearing of the mini. However, I would like to carry stuff up front and low. The front rack would be a good alternative if it can be folded with the rack.
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...cat%3A%20Racks
I have been staring the new Dahon Curve but would really like the wide gearing of the mini. However, I would like to carry stuff up front and low. The front rack would be a good alternative if it can be folded with the rack.
#1220
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The Nashbar front rack will create a wide fold. If you use the front bag made for it, your bike will be even wider when folded, that is, assuming it fits the mini. (I have one on my Dahon)
#1221
Part-time epistemologist
Originally Posted by spambait11
The Nashbar front rack will create a wide fold. If you use the front bag made for it, your bike will be even wider when folded, that is, assuming it fits the mini. (I have one on my Dahon)
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Rack Replacement
Hey-
I'd like to replace my rear rack. Anyone know if this
will fit my Downtube?
https://www.topeak.com/2007/products/...ostuberack.php
Thanks!
I'd like to replace my rear rack. Anyone know if this
will fit my Downtube?
https://www.topeak.com/2007/products/...ostuberack.php
Thanks!
#1223
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Originally Posted by invisiblehand
In my new quest for a small folder, I wondered whether the Nashbar front rack would fit on a mini. Anyone have any good guesses? Do you think it would impede the fold at all?
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...cat%3A%20Racks
I have been staring the new Dahon Curve but would really like the wide gearing of the mini. However, I would like to carry stuff up front and low. The front rack would be a good alternative if it can be folded with the rack.
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...cat%3A%20Racks
I have been staring the new Dahon Curve but would really like the wide gearing of the mini. However, I would like to carry stuff up front and low. The front rack would be a good alternative if it can be folded with the rack.
#1224
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Stock BB
Originally Posted by Loch
Things I don't like
-The stock bottom bracket is useless, mine was wobbly and having bearings on only one side isn't going to cut it.
#1225
Part-time epistemologist
Originally Posted by Polaris43
Please let us know if you end up getting this for your Mini. It looks like a nice rack and I'd love to see photos and hear your opinion on if it compromises the fold and if it's worth the compromise.
My apologies if this has been answered previously, but
(1) does the mini roll well in its folded position?
(2) how does the mini stay folded when folded?
I have a few buddies in Philly. I keep trying to find an excuse to head up there to test ride one. Hopefully this will take place soon.