hi hope everyone is well.

just a few more questions:

1. i have a 90s mountain bike i commute to work on 12 miles (a bit hilly). on that ive mounted a front jack rack and strap my backpack to it.


​​​​​​when spring comes i want to commute sometimes on the dahon too. is it possible to do anything like a front rack or pignose adapter or something for such an old dahon? i like my backpack cos i can get more in it than in my carradice rack bag shown in the photo below:



2. what are my options for carrying / mounting a water bottle that is easy to get to?

3. i think I want a kickstand. is the dahon double kick stand any good? what would you recommend?

appreciate any help. cheers

I'm sorry I can't answer your questions about the Dahon but I have to say that your Trek Mountain Track is really sweet.

[QUOTE=cliff_cliff;23414493]hi hope everyone is well.

just a few more questions:

1. i have a 90s mountain bike i commute to work on 12 miles (a bit hilly). on that ive mounted a front jack rack and strap my backpack to it.

​​​​​​when spring comes i want to commute sometimes on the dahon too. is it possible to do anything like a front rack or pignose adapter or something for such an old dahon? i like my backpack cos i can get more in it than in my carradice rack bag shown in the photo below:



I think you can. So maybe. If you look on AliExpress there are companies who make pig nose add-ons for Birdy and Dahon. There are some that give their dimensions. You will need to measure your tube dimension with a caliper to determine if it will fit. If it is close, but your tube is slightly smaller you can shim. IMO H&H make the best ones. Litepro will work but their angle that the bag makes is a little off.

Some of the Brompton bags have rear pockets that can be used for water bottles. They work out well and won't affect riding out of the saddle.

Yes. I'd recommend a pignose adapter that clamps around *both* the top and bottom of the head tube, that is much stronger than a skinny clamp on just either. The clamp diameters may be different for steel versus aluminum frames, yours is steel. I think there are choices of adapters that have the rack interface vertical, or laid back slightly to be parallel with the head tube. The one drawback I have seen on some adaptors is only rack contact on a narrow strip, versus the mounts on Brompton IIRC, are v-shaped and contact the head tube on each side, for better lateral stiffness so the rack doesn't wobble laterally or fatigue the mount.

Another option on a Speed is a small brake-post rack, they are perfect size for the application, sometimes called a Sixer rack because that size. I'll try to find a photo of mine. I've modified the rack with an additional stick to keep panniers out of the spokes, and hung smaller panniers there. I've also hung a small backpack from the handlebars with the shoulder straps, but that would not go on and off easy, I needed quick release buckles for those straps. That little brakepost rack is strong, and I've hauled huge parcels and purchases there, tied to both rack and tall handlepost, that huge available space makes a 20" wheel bike a tremendous cargo bike. Loads on the (fork) rack are steered mass, calms steering but feels weightier; When front panniers loaded, I put heaviest things inside them aft, so behaves more like lowrider front racks centered on fork. Loads on a pignose rack are not steered, however mass there (forward of steering) also improves stability, it improves the (already existing) tendency for the bike to steer in the direction it is falling laterally, according to a detailed study on bike stability.

I just bought a disc Dahon, won't be able to use a brake post rack, I'll need a conventional one, preferably sized for 20"/406 wheels. Or use the pignose on that frame, but it's aluminum, so I don't want to cantilever too heavy a load too far forward on that, I like to be conservative with regard to frame stresses.

EDIT: Water bottle: Yeah the stock Dahon mount on the top of the main tube, don't do, it won't be long until you hit it with your foot and bend the bottle cage. Plus full bottles leak when horizontal. OH, you don't have those mounts like mine, no loss! Options: Notice my water bottle held by my aero bars, proprietary design on both. Without aero bar, I would put a cage mount near the top of the handlepost, they make cage mounts to fit that. Could also do front or back of seatpost, or back of seat, they make cage mounts that attach to the seat frame, can hold 1 or 2 bottle cages. You'll need to experiment to see which works best if you fold the bike a lot. Back of seat, if clears the rear rack when seatpost down, may be best.

Kickstand: Single side stand will work fine, provided its length matches your tire size well. (Me going from stock 1.5" to 1.75" tires, meant I needed a touch taller kickstand than originally.) It also helps to turn the front wheel toward the drive side, counterintuitive, but the bike may be more stable, mine is. They make double-stands where both legs retract to the non-drive-side, a little pricey but I've heard they work well as a center stand, but deploying the stand and wheeling the bike back onto it, will raise either the front or rear wheel, might stay off the ground if stand not trimmed perfectly. But better it be a little too long, than a little too short, the latter and it just functions as a single stand.

Pics: whole rack setup, better view of front rack (on shuttle bus), bike folded on train car luggage shelf, cargo: rollaboard suitcase, cargo: medium sized cooler.

hi

took the bike on a long 20 miles ride to my sister's on christmas eve. all was well and stopped for a cheese toastie on the way. some bumpy terrain.





when i got there i hosed the bike down ans folded it. the next morning on unfolding i noticed the main frame clamp felt qute easy to close and noticed a lot of play on the hinge. oh dear. i must have bee riding with that play for some of the 20 mile ride.

i tightened the bolt slightly on the hinge and the play went away and the hinge closed with more satisfying force. then i pedaled to my mams about another 6 mile on some bumpy pavements.

when I got there i noticed the clamp had loosened again. no real play a little, but the clamp was noticeably looser.

anyone got any ideas what i can do?

cheers

​​​

Yes, standard latch adjustment will loosen. You need to add a nut there (use stainless steel one), need not be thick, free running (not nylock or other kind of locknut), and then gently torque that nut against the (female thread) adjusting barrel, while holding the barrel. Done. Won't move again until you loosen the locknut.

Locking nut, plus triangulating cable, and I haven't had to adjust my hinge since, almost 2 years now, and a lot of miles.

great. so take it apart and add the nut in? I was thinking loctite or something.
any idea of the mm size for the nut?

Nut is better than loctite, as the latter will make future adjustments difficult, you'd need to heat with soldering iron each time. I can't recall size of nut, but if I had to take a wild-@ss guess, it would be same as rack braze-on threads, so 5mm dia x 0.8mm pitch? Don't disassemble the latch on carpeting, as I recall there is a tiny circlip holding the pivot pin, don't lose that. While you're at your local bolt and nut monger, good idea to pick up a couple spare circlips for there and other hinges.

It's amazing how a few tiny improvements make a big difference on these folders.

thanks, sorry one more question, so just a normal nut, not a locknut, as you called it such before. how does it work? doesn't the nut itself nove with vibration

No worries, glad to help. Yes, in between posts I changed that to "locking nut", to prevent confusion. So yes, just a plain (free running) nut, can be thin or thicker if space, stainless steel so won't rust. Once torqued (lightly) against barrel, very resistant to vibration, but if it loosens, torque just a bit tighter. I will also say though that my triangulating line (similar to Dahon Deltech cable), greatly reduces stress on hinge so that may also help. I installed locking nut and line at same time.

Hinge latch should be tight enough so that if you push/pull laterally (left/right) on the seatpost and handlepost in opposite directions, you don't feel any clunk-clunk looseness. Also with front brake locked, pulling/pushing bike back and forth, no clunk-clunk felt. If you do, can also be looseness in hinge at base of handlepost; If so, write back, different solution there.

ok thanks appreciate it

See revisions to above post, thanks.

just an update, i've taken apart the mechanism and theres a bit of damage within shown below. the screw is completely bent and done for, the bit it goes into (that you tighten to tighten the hinge) had both crushed threads on the outside (in the middle) and i would image stripped threads on the inside from the bent screw. im lucky i didnt have something go quite bad on my ride.



dunno if im goosed here? The other bits of the mechanism all seem fine.
i can get the hinge mechanism for the model after mine from a local online shop, and looking at it the two bits i need it seems they may be exactly the same? any thoughts that would be ok? shown below:


im a bit bummed about this cos other than those the bike is a-ok and i don't want to have to give up on it.
cheers

(above) This should not end the bike's existence.

The small screw is easily replaced. If the threads it goes into in the barrel adjuster are bolixed up, try running a tapping die into and out of it. The barrel adjuster outside threads, I think you can run an (external threading) die over the threads to fix it. That is the thread size where you need a locking nut, however the outside of the nut cannot be too large or it will press on the frame when the latch is closed, possibly bending that threaded part. Mine is close enough that I orient the nut with one of the wrench flats parallel with the frame, for better clearance.

If not above, that is the most common hinge latch type that Dahon makes, you should be able to find a complete replacement kit online. Try a local Dahon dealer first, next a place that repairs folding bikes but may not be a Dahon dealer, then look online.

Just saw elsewhere online: CH White in the UK has Dahon parts.

yes that's where the above latch picture was from. ive bought that latch im hoping it will fit or at least the parts I need will be similar size.
cheers

They should, but let us know. While it's apart, bring the new or old parts to a hardware store to get a locking nut, dirt cheap.

yeah cheers i thought id do that after you mentioned it.

right update.

after i realised the hinge had a large up and down play and finding the screw mechanism completely bent, i began to think the play in the hinge bolt is unsafe and caused the weight to be placed on the latch on the other side, thus bending the screw.
i dunno when this happened, either it was there when i bought it, or was too loose on my 20 mile ride and ive caused it.
either way i dont feel safe on the bike. ive ordered a new latch to see what the play is like with that, but assume the hinge is knackered and will cause the same issue.

with this is mind i found a good deal on a new mariner. was on sale, then i got extra discount with my partners nhs bluelight perks so its cost me £500 delivered and should be here in an hour. thats about $630.

i assume its the "normal version" without deltec cable, which is fine. its strange tho everywhere i look the mariner is different. some have deltec, some have those new jaws. not sure what dahon r doing.

anyway excited for new bike.

And another folder bites the dust before its time. Others on here have replaced that pin with slightly oversize and drilled the holes to match, but that's too much effort for most folks, it's difficult to just get the old pin out.

Deltech is weird, Dahon is running hot and cold on it. None, then they rolled it out on nearly everything, now gone again on nearly everything. It really works. My only guess is perhaps the small welded attachment tabs on an aluminum frame were fatiguing and coming loose, don't know. They seem to have backtracked on Deltech increasing the capacity to 300 lbs from 231, it's back to 231, and perhaps they also want to backtrack on the warranty doubling to 10 years with it. The "add on Deltech" looks more sound, metal loops around the head tube and bottom bracket shell, but that kit, while hyped by Dahon online, seems to be vaporware and not actually available. If you have not already seen, I retrofit my Speed frame with a cable like that from ultra-high-strength and low-stretch line, and it's worked wonders, tightened the hinge right up and completely eliminating wear it seems.

I'd recommend saving the old Speed for parts, here's why: The Mariner will come with a telescoping handlepost, a nice feature, but it is a bit less laterally rigid when climbing standing. Some have also gotten fatigue cracks on the lower part at the adjustment joint. That one-piece tapered steel handlepost on the speed is quite rigid, and a bit higher than the telescoping post, however it requires a bit taller steer tube on the fork than comes on the Mariner, so to use that post on a later Speed, I had to retain the fork from the old Speed. You also have a spare set of wheels, seatpost, brakes, and all the other parts, nearly everything fits the Mariner, though you would need to change the freehub body on the old wheels as a 7-speed one is a bit shorter than 8-speeds require. I don't know if the rear outer locknut distance is different, it's 130mm on the 7-speed, it could be that or 135mm on the 8-speed.

When I needed a new Speed frame because my old one cracked, I kept the old one to use as a truing jig for wheels, just clamped in one of those portable work tables.

i do intend to keep the speed its a great bike and in good nick. i might also attempt the repair but i dont know how/where to start. then things like how/where to get a pin? would it be strong enough etc. do i need to know how to weld? i put money into it and changed certain parts, like the brakes to Shimano, the freewheel to shimano, new tyres etc. if i cant fix the hinge then i have the spares you talk about. and can use the freewheel on a minivelo i built up.

regarding the mariner, the model they've sent me was manufactured in 2021. first impressions are its nice, but feels cheap compared to the speed. my front wheel is quite out of true for a new bike. ill be taking it to halfords where i ordered it online from and asking them to true it.

the plastic clip that holds the handlepost latch was all bent and wouldnt retain the latch so ive had to bend it back. it works but still looks damaged so ill be asking for a replacement one of those.

the handlepost itself twists left and right when i undo the middle telescopic latch meaning i have to make sure its pointing the right way before latching again. bit surprised at that. its also more awkward to fold as you have to make sure the height of the handlepost is right before u do so.
​​
ive changed the tyres from the cheap no-name things on it to some green marathons i had lying round from my minivelo. ive taken the mudguards off for now, they where rubbing against the hight profile marathons.

the gears advertised as shimano altus in reviews are actually suntour ones. same for the trigger shifter. a bit disappointed but they work fine. u pay a bit more for a slightly better model and expect a bit more. brake levers arent as nice as the speeds.

positive is the silver looks great and when all latches together it seels a lot more rigid/solid. its slightly lighter and has more gears for climbing.

i do find it strange that dahon have so many little variations of components on the same models. not sure whether they changed things cos 2021 manufacture and pandemic etc? but u feel like ur paying for something else than arrives. u feel a bit conned but everywhere you look dahon variations exist. seems a bit unprofessional.

also worryingly they only sell new here (uk) at halfords and they dont sell many parts or spares anywhere. its obviously not much of a popular make over here. for instance this quote from ch white and sons (the only uk carrier of dahon spares etc) regarding the selling of a quick coupler but not the valet truss it attaches to (which you can get anywhere here, same for the little quick wheel you can attach to the bottom). they seem to care about sellings the biks over here but not any aftermarket or add ons)

The looseness in alignment at the telescoping handlepost clamp is on all of them, you always need to align the top when closing the clamp. I recommend loosening the side clamp bolt at the handlepost base at the top of the head tube, and set that alignment such that, when you gently turn the handlebars to the right or left limit of the looseness up top (your choice), that it's then aligned correct, and you close the clamp; This will be easier than adjusting it for center each time.

Suntour?! Those folks still around? Some have fond memories of some of their lines, I think Suntour Superbe. But in terms of parts or features as advertised, Dahon seems to be worse than most, but this also may be because you looked online at a 2024 model and your 2021 is spec'ed per 2021, though it still might not be what was advertised.

There was a long thread, perhaps even a couple, about replacing the pin on Dahon hinges; One one, the pin would not extract and it was a blind hole up top, so they drilled a hole there to drift (punch) the pin out. I think that was also where they reamed it larger, and found a good subsitute pin from tool steel, a hardened steel gauge pin with precision ground finish. Ah, here's the thread:

Getting harder to fold into place. Danger or no?

Wheel true: Yeah, it should be right, especially with rim brakes. On my Dahons, it was not just out laterally (a quick fix), but also radially, which then affects all spokes. I removed the tire and tube, and having either the actual bike in a "workmate" (portable clamping work table) inverted and clamped to the seatpost, or the old frame or fork, I let the spoke tension completely down, evened up the nipples loosely by turns or view of the spoke threads, and set about retensioning the spokes, prioritizing radial runout, but still constantly checking lateral as well, little by little, half turn at a time (and holding the spoke with other hand to feel for spoke windup and not nipple turning), quarter turns, then really fine tuning it for radial, lateral, and tension. The rear wheel is dished so will not be same tension on drive side versus non-drive side, but tension on each side should be equal; Don't have a spoke tension meter? Neither do I, I just pluck the spokes to ring them, even tone is even tension, given the same length. My truing guides were just popsicle sticks clamped to the frame for both radial and lateral. Slowly brought all spokes up to tension. When finished, spun that wheel, didn't move a quarter of a millimeter. In the frame, this lets you get the rear wheel dish perfect without needed to measure, you just center the wheel in the chainstays. With the front wheel, periodically reverse the wheel, if that changes the centering of the rim in the fork blades, the fork is off in lateral blade alignment, or position of the axle dropouts. A good careful truing job, even and correct tension, and that wheel will stay in true a very, very long time, after many years, mine never gets out unless I break a spoke, happened twice in rear from not using a spoke protector disc and the chain chewing up a couple spokes (don't pull yours off, and if it didn't come with one, have Halfords put one on (tasteful clear plastic one), they are often required per safety regs).

I was never instructed on wheel truing, just learned by experience, taking it slow. I find it very satisfying, and owners will spend more time on it than the bike shop, and thus get a better result. However, check first that the rims do not appear to have any flat spots in the circle, and when truing, if suddenly the force to turn suddenly jumps up, stop; I didn't and permanently froze the nipple onto the spoke, had to cut it and replace.

update - me old dahon speed is back to life. buzzing. ill post more later