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Dahon rejuvenation

Old 03-16-24, 04:09 PM
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Dahon rejuvenation

New project, upgrade my 2012 Dahon Mu P8 w/ new Contiís rubber & a few LitePro components.

32mm replacing 42mm

Leaving rear drivetrain & brakes original. Litepro for weight reduction & bling
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Old 03-16-24, 05:04 PM
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Looks like a nice upgrade. The best upgrade I made for my Dahon 20" folder was a 2X crank and derailleur to get additional lower gearing.

I've shied away from carbon, a LBS has a web page devoted to fragility and bad failure modes of it, they only endorse its use for competitive racing bikes, and they won't service a lot of it. It also requires very careful installation to keep from damage due to clamp loads, such as using friction paste so you don't need to clamp as hard.
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Old 03-16-24, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Duragrouch
Looks like a nice upgrade. The best upgrade I made for my Dahon 20" folder was a 2X crank and derailleur to get additional lower gearing.

I've shied away from carbon, a LBS has a web page devoted to fragility and bad failure modes of it, they only endorse its use for competitive racing bikes, and they won't service a lot of it. It also requires very careful installation to keep from damage due to clamp loads, such as using friction paste so you don't need to clamp as hard.
Thanks for the heads up on the friction paste, I ordered some along w/ tire liners for the project. Took a measurement of the front fork & discovered that the spacing is only 85mm. The new front wheel is 100mm so, will be upgrading the front fork with a carbon fiber disc brake version. This frankenbike project will have front disc brakes & rear V brakes! New front fork means new headset too, along with new brake levers & changing from SRAM grip shift to trigger shifter. The OEM is reduced to frame, rear derailleur, 8spd cassette & rear V brakes.

8spd shifter & disc brake caliper/rotor fm Amazon

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Old 03-16-24, 10:24 PM
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I recently looked at that exact fork. But I don't want carbon for reasons stated, bad failure modes. I want a disc in front for long downhills to keep from heating up the rim, and no sidewall wear, my rims are getting critically concaved after 10 years in an area with steeps. My current fork is 74mm, would need 100mm for disc, plus disc wheel, caliper, etc. May be better to just buy a disc folder, like an Origami. I like my old chrome-moly frame and fork, it's outfit with front and rear panniers as a townie, 2X gearing, aero bars, it's tricked out nice. Only thing it's missing is discs.

Carbon: Get a micro-torque wrench (lb-inches and metric equiv) if you don't have one. And any adaptors and/or bits so you can use it on the bike.

Last edited by Duragrouch; 03-16-24 at 10:29 PM.
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Old 03-16-24, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Need41speed
Thanks for the heads up on the friction paste, I ordered some along w/ tire liners for the project. Took a measurement of the front fork & discovered that the spacing is only 85mm. The new front wheel is 100mm so, will be upgrading the front fork with a carbon fiber disc brake version. This frankenbike project will have front disc brakes & rear V brakes! New front fork means new headset too, along with new brake levers & changing from SRAM grip shift to trigger shifter. The OEM is reduced to frame, rear derailleur, 8spd cassette & rear V brakes.

8spd shifter & disc brake caliper/rotor fm Amazon
Why do you need a new headset? Those brake levers are known for cracking, breaking if fastened too tight. Caveat emptor.

I'm with Grouch on the carbon bit.
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Old 03-16-24, 11:33 PM
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I'm curious what makes those levers "folding bike levers"?
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Old 03-17-24, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Ron Damon
Why do you need a new headset? Those brake levers are known for cracking, breaking if fastened too tight. Caveat emptor.

I'm with Grouch on the carbon bit.
From past experience, headset race on fork side , usually pressed fit or are very tight & difficult to remove and easily damaged. Bearings on my original headset are 12 years old. New headset for this project. Brake levers to be mounted on carbon fiber handlebars so that grip paste & TLC will used. Thanks for the heads up on the levers.

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Old 03-17-24, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Duragrouch
I'm curious what makes those levers "folding bike levers"?
They look pretty ... skinny. Maybe they're (folding)(bike levers), not (folding bike)(levers).
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Old 03-17-24, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by sweeks
They look pretty ... skinny. Maybe they're (folding)(bike levers), not (folding bike)(levers).
LitePro specializes in components for folding bikes. These levers appear to be a little longer than the original Avid levers in that theyíre straighter but arm girth appears the same.
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Old 03-17-24, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by sweeks
They look pretty ... skinny. Maybe they're (folding)(bike levers), not (folding bike)(levers).
That would be a great trick. Usually, you twist the handlebars up or down before fold, so the brake levers are more flush to the fold. But I can't because of bar-ends, aero bars, plus I have L levers to reach on the bar-ends. I currently remove the forearm pads and arms, for a bit better fold. It's a great cockpit setup, but poor for folding.
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Old 03-18-24, 04:18 AM
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Best of luck with those high pressure 406/32 tyres.

I swapped mine out; on anything other than perfectly smooth tarmac my fillings would be shaken out of my teeth.

The minor increase in speed was offset by much higher rider fatigue as my poor body absorbed the bumps and chatter rather than the tyres.

I went back to 406/42 and my molars are grateful.
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Old 03-18-24, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Duragrouch
I recently looked at that exact fork. But I don't want carbon for reasons stated, bad failure modes. I want a disc in front for long downhills to keep from heating up the rim, and no sidewall wear, my rims are getting critically concaved after 10 years in an area with steeps. My current fork is 74mm, would need 100mm for disc, plus disc wheel, caliper, etc. May be better to just buy a disc folder, like an Origami. I like my old chrome-moly frame and fork, it's outfit with front and rear panniers as a townie, 2X gearing, aero bars, it's tricked out nice. Only thing it's missing is discs.

Carbon: Get a micro-torque wrench (lb-inches and metric equiv) if you don't have one. And any adaptors and/or bits so you can use it on the bike.
Finally invested in a torque wrench kit!
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Old 03-18-24, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Barchettaman
Best of luck with those high pressure 406/32 tyres.

I swapped mine out; on anything other than perfectly smooth tarmac my fillings would be shaken out of my teeth.

The minor increase in speed was offset by much higher rider fatigue as my poor body absorbed the bumps and chatter rather than the tyres.

I went back to 406/42 and my molars are grateful.
I currently roll w/ 42ís on the current setup. Itís a nice ride. I also have a single speed folder w/ 28ís and I know what youíre talking about on rough asphalt. Hoping the 32ís will be a fair compromise.
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Old 03-18-24, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Need41speed
I currently roll w/ 42ís on the current setup. Itís a nice ride. I also have a single speed folder w/ 28ís and I know what youíre talking about on rough asphalt. Hoping the 32ís will be a fair compromise.
If that don't work, there's always 58mm. Provided your frame clears it.

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Old 03-19-24, 12:40 AM
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I think it was the combination of the short wheelbase, smaller wheels and rough tarmac in the north of England that made the 406/32 tyres so extraordinarily unpleasant. The vertical deflection and chatter was just appalling.

I hope you have better luck!
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Old 03-19-24, 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Barchettaman
I think it was the combination of the short wheelbase, smaller wheels and rough tarmac in the north of England that made the 406/32 tyres so extraordinarily unpleasant. The vertical deflection and chatter was just appalling.

I hope you have better luck!
406/32 is going to ride rough on bad pavement.

Not as short a wheelbase as you might think. The KHS shown is a bit different from my Dahon, but similar proportions:


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Old 03-19-24, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Duragrouch
406/32 is going to ride rough on bad pavement.

Not as short a wheelbase as you might think. The KHS shown is a bit different from my Dahon, but similar proportions:


What model KHS is this? Inquiring old people (ME!) would like to know...
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Old 03-19-24, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by tds101
What model KHS is this? Inquiring old people (ME!) would like to know...
I don't know, sorry. The picture is from the wiki page on "folding bicycle". Looks like a good one, fast, notice 2X gearing, bullhorns and brifters, rear suspension. Frame is a bit less compact than a Dahon because it's taller, probably to get away with a more normal diameter seat post.

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Old 03-20-24, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Duragrouch
I've shied away from carbon, a LBS has a web page devoted to fragility and bad failure modes of it, they only endorse its use for competitive racing bikes, and they won't service a lot of it. It also requires very careful installation to keep from damage due to clamp loads, such as using friction paste so you don't need to clamp as hard.
In defense of carbon fiber, I have a previous bike project that I built over 10 years ago that is composed of a EPX TT carbon frame, Easton EC90 Aero fork and Zipp 440 rims. These carbon components are vintage, the Zipp rims are from the 90ís and the frame & fork from the mid 2000ís. Iíve used this bike for commuting and training, on urban bike lanes and in century rides. From my experience, the durability, lighter weight and shock absorption (700x22 Conti tubulars) is excellent.
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Old 03-20-24, 12:43 PM
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Refocus to the build, along with the plethora of Litepro components & partial changeover to disc brakes, decided to change from 8spd to 11spd w/ SRAM parts.
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Old 03-24-24, 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Need41speed
In defense of carbon fiber, I have a previous bike project that I built over 10 years ago that is composed of a EPX TT carbon frame, Easton EC90 Aero fork and Zipp 440 rims. These carbon components are vintage, the Zipp rims are from the 90ís and the frame & fork from the mid 2000ís. Iíve used this bike for commuting and training, on urban bike lanes and in century rides. From my experience, the durability, lighter weight and shock absorption (700x22 Conti tubulars) is excellent.
Snap! I also used a BP Stealth Martec for triathlon.

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Old 03-24-24, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Duragrouch
Looks like a nice upgrade. The best upgrade I made for my Dahon 20" folder was a 2X crank and derailleur to get additional lower gearing.

I've shied away from carbon, a LBS has a web page devoted to fragility and bad failure modes of it, they only endorse its use for competitive racing bikes, and they won't service a lot of it. It also requires very careful installation to keep from damage due to clamp loads, such as using friction paste so you don't need to clamp as hard.
No folder needs 2x gearing. 1X 9 to 11 does it all.
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Old 03-24-24, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Sentinel1
No folder needs 2x gearing. 1X 9 to 11 does it all.
Nice to have though in certain situations.
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Old 03-24-24, 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Barchettaman
Nice to have though in certain situations.
That will depend on the bike you have. I have the KING of folding bikes. The mighty Tern Verge X11. It has 24 to 102 gear inches. There isnt a hill that's ever defeated me. If you have a bike with gear inched in the 30s. That's another story. I owned an X20 before the X11. That had 2X gearing. But it kept going off. And even with the two rings it didn't match the X11. it was 27 to 95.
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Old 03-24-24, 08:03 AM
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I was defeated multiple times this January when I was staying in a very hilly part of Kent, UK, hence the move from 52 to 47 teeth on my 1x9 Tern 406 tyred folder.

I did have quite a bit of weight on board though (mostly the rider LOL)
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