I noticed since 7 years ago when I first installed my MKS EZY superior urban platform pedals that the interface between the spindle and the quick release has some play. The cartridge bearings between the spindle and pedal also had a little bit of play but now there is slightly more play in the bearings after all this time. The combination between the two is about 3mm of radial movement measured at the outer tip of the pedal, and maybe 0.5mm laterally.

I'm wondering if anyone else has noticed the play, and whether it's possible to replace the cartridge bearings in the pedals. The website mentions that the user should not remove or replace the cartridge bearings or pack any grease.

I'm guessing the cartridge bearings are a bit dry now. The pedals spin very freely and loosely. Doesn't seem to be any drag at all from any grease.

How much energy do you suppose is lost due to the play during tours?

There is a slight momentary delay during pedaling for the foot to move up and down between the upper and lower positions in the wiggle of the play around each revolution.

I've used removable pedals including MKS and others on all my folding bikes for the last 15 years or more. I think there will be zero energy loss due to the play in the bearings/spindlehousing. The weight of your leg alone is enough to keep the pedal in the " sagged down" position. It doesn't require any muscular input from the rider to keep it in that position. In addition, the pedal remains permanently in the sag down position whilst pedalling. You may imagine that the pedal waggles up and down as you pedal, and if it did there might be some loss, but that isn't the case.
Edit: The above assumes your foot is not clipped or strapped to the pedal. If it was, and if you also pull up on the pedal on the upstroke of the crank, then the pedal spindle WILL waggle up and down during rotation and that may generate a small energy loss.

I always use toe cages. So the pedal is moving up and down through the range of play for each rotation of the crank.

I do not have enough distance on my EZY pedals to cause any play. If you notice no friction when turning the pedals by hand, I doubt that you would have any energy loss. If there was any particulate matter in the bearings that could cause it to feel like there is any grit in the pedal bearings, then there could be minor energy loss. I probably have more energy loss after I add grease to my Shimano cup and cone (non-cartridge) bearing pedals, they no longer spin freely by hand after adding grease.

I use toe clips on my EZY pedals, but I do not lift my foot enough to pull upwards on my pedals, I simply use the toe clips to hold my foot on the pedals so that the feet do not slip off when I hit bumps or a rough road. I am surprised that you lift your feet enough while pedaling to notice the play.

It's possible to apply upwards force through the toe cage. I've always felt the play, it just feels more now because I switched to oval rings and the rpm is a little faster.

I noticed excess slop in my MKS ezy superior pedals after about 4 years and about 25K miles. The bearings in the pedals themselves were fine and without play, but the quick release mechanism was worn. I could feel it with each pedal stroke. It was a subtle klunk, but was becoming more noticeable over time. I ride without cleats or toe clips.



I was able to buy some replacement pedal adaptors (the part that screws into the crankarm) for $30 on amazon. They came directly from Japan. Looking at the pedal shaft, I could see some wear in the indentation where the ball bearings of the pedal adaptors lock the pedal spindle (see picture). With the new pedal adaptors (and with the old pedal spindle) I found the play was much reduced, almost to like new. So I’m good for another 20K or so.



Next time I buy a set of these pedals, I will get a spare set of pedal adaptors with them.

I do have minor corrosion on the bearing race of the pedal spindle but I thought it was just from rain and the steel from the bearings in contact with the coating on the spindle.

I'm wondering how you've reduced the play simply by using new quick release adaptors. The outer shell of the adapter pushes the ball bearings into the race on the spindle. The only way for it to develop play is if the outer shell develops an indentation from the balls or it deforms. Or the hole the ball sits on elongates so that the 4 balls aren't position at equal distance from each other.

If you disassemble your old adapter you could look inside the outer shell if you are curious.

My experience with MKS pedals is that the outside of the pedal shafts corrode and wear; similar wear occurs inside the coupler. I found that if I kept the shafts well-lubricated, this wear could be minimized. I've always been a bit disappointed that these couplers, and their parts (springs, bearings, collars) are not made of stainless steel. Ditto the pedal spindles.


Here's a coupler disassembled. This is easy to do by removing a circlip (seen here enclosing the 4 retaining ball bearings). If the balls get too rusty, they can be replaced.



This coupler developed a couple cracks. There was a *lot* of radial play. There's no fix for this.

If you look carefully at the very worn/slightly worn spots the arrows point to you will notice increased wear on the inner part of the channel, towards the crank arm. That could contribute to some play.

I think most of the play is with the spindle/adaptor interface. For me, the new adaptors reduced the play dramatically.

While this pedal does require more maintenance, keeping them clean and lubed will make them last a long time. I use a chain lube on the pedal spindle and in the adaptor mechanism. Whenever I lube the chain, I clean and lube the pedal connection parts as well.

I wonder if I put some 0.05mm shims or aluminum tape either around the spindle or on the inside of the coupler, if that would work to reduce play or if it will just get stuck or shred.

The thing I don't like about lubricating the spindle is that I frequently remove them and whatever I use to temporarily store them get greasy.

I did grease the coupler the last time I overhauled it.

Are the parts not stainless? I thought only the balls, spring and retaining ring were not but I could be wrong.