Upgrades for Downtube Mini
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 130
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From: Washington, DC
Upgrades for Downtube Mini
I've been doing a lot of research about folding bikes and based on specs and recommendations, I'm thinking I will get a Downtube Mini. (I will be testing it out soon too) However, I want to be able to carry at least a gym bag with a pair of shoes and change of clothes and there is no builtin rack for the mini.
What upgrades have you added to your minis and, importantly, how have these upgrades affected the fold, weight, and feel of the bike?
I am particularly interested in adding fenders and a rack (like the curve) as I said previously. Also what kind of lock configuration do you use? I may have to leave the bike outside the gym.
This is for city use mostly but I may want to start commuting to work (8 miles each way). Let me know what you think and whether I'm better off with a 20 incher that already has the rack.
What upgrades have you added to your minis and, importantly, how have these upgrades affected the fold, weight, and feel of the bike?
I am particularly interested in adding fenders and a rack (like the curve) as I said previously. Also what kind of lock configuration do you use? I may have to leave the bike outside the gym.
This is for city use mostly but I may want to start commuting to work (8 miles each way). Let me know what you think and whether I'm better off with a 20 incher that already has the rack.
#2
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Washington, DC
RHM kindly sent me this via private message:
(I'm 5'8 probably no larger than 5'9" with shoes so height won't be a problem.)
8 miles on a mini is no problem, depending on your height; I'm 6' and have had to make some modifications. The only one directly related to height is a "butt buddy" which raises the seat an additional 2". I also have a dynamo hub built into the front wheel; 12v halogen headlight in permanent "lights on for safety" position; shorter crank arms just 'cuz I like them that way; better grips, better saddle, better pedals (since the stock pedals broke after 1500 miles or so). I've also made many changes that didn't last long; I tried a Hebie Chainglider chainguard, but eventually gave up on that. I've worn out several sets of tires, two tires, two headlights, one taillight, and so on.
Fenders are not a problem. I got mine from Sunrise Cyclery on Long Island; they are a silver colored plastic. Sunrise now has a different set of fenders for 16" wheel, which are black, but I presume they're equally good. By the way, you can also get Wald chromed steel fenders from Bikepartsusa.com; heavier but presumably tougher. My rear fender is now cracked, and I expect to have to replace it pretty soon.
Depending on lots of factors, such as your shoe size, I don't recommend a rack attached to the frame. I bought the steel rack Dahon sells for the Curve, and attached it with a little difficulty (including a couple zip ties) but no problems there. It interfered with the fold only to a minor degree. But it was quite useless! Your heel will hit anything that hangs out over the side of a rack even by an inch. I also got a quick-release rack that goes on the seatpost; that's a lot better, and I use it occasionally. On a day-to-day basis, however, I use a messenger bag. strap over my shoulder, so it hangs behind my lower back while I ride. It's not my first choice, but it actually works very well.
It may be that a 20" wheel folder has better rack options; I don't honestly know.
With a 16" wheel folder, with the seat post extended pretty high, there's a lot of room between the seat and the wheel. So much, in fact, that you can hang a pretty big grocery bag there. I do that a lot-- it works best if your seat has a groove down the middle, which mine doesn't.
I believe there's also a pretty good front rack option; Nashbar sometimes has a rack that attaches to the brake studs. I haven't tried, since I 'spect it would interfere with my headlight, but I hear it fits.
I haven't tried a Dahon or Downtube 20"er, but I put my mini on the overhead rack on the train every day, and I am pretty sure a 20"er would not fit up there. I'm pretty sure you could take a 20"er on the DC subway and leave it on the floor, between your feet or something.
Bottom line, a 20"er may work for you, and may have some advantages, but I'm fairly confident I'm better off with the 16" wheel.
Fenders are not a problem. I got mine from Sunrise Cyclery on Long Island; they are a silver colored plastic. Sunrise now has a different set of fenders for 16" wheel, which are black, but I presume they're equally good. By the way, you can also get Wald chromed steel fenders from Bikepartsusa.com; heavier but presumably tougher. My rear fender is now cracked, and I expect to have to replace it pretty soon.
Depending on lots of factors, such as your shoe size, I don't recommend a rack attached to the frame. I bought the steel rack Dahon sells for the Curve, and attached it with a little difficulty (including a couple zip ties) but no problems there. It interfered with the fold only to a minor degree. But it was quite useless! Your heel will hit anything that hangs out over the side of a rack even by an inch. I also got a quick-release rack that goes on the seatpost; that's a lot better, and I use it occasionally. On a day-to-day basis, however, I use a messenger bag. strap over my shoulder, so it hangs behind my lower back while I ride. It's not my first choice, but it actually works very well.
It may be that a 20" wheel folder has better rack options; I don't honestly know.
With a 16" wheel folder, with the seat post extended pretty high, there's a lot of room between the seat and the wheel. So much, in fact, that you can hang a pretty big grocery bag there. I do that a lot-- it works best if your seat has a groove down the middle, which mine doesn't.
I believe there's also a pretty good front rack option; Nashbar sometimes has a rack that attaches to the brake studs. I haven't tried, since I 'spect it would interfere with my headlight, but I hear it fits.
I haven't tried a Dahon or Downtube 20"er, but I put my mini on the overhead rack on the train every day, and I am pretty sure a 20"er would not fit up there. I'm pretty sure you could take a 20"er on the DC subway and leave it on the floor, between your feet or something.
Bottom line, a 20"er may work for you, and may have some advantages, but I'm fairly confident I'm better off with the 16" wheel.
#3
multimodal commuter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,810
Likes: 597
From: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Here's a couple pictures of my mini in its current state, showing the modifications mentioned above, and of course the fine patina that comes from 3200 miles on the road and 23000 miles on the train!




#4
The Legitimiser
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,849
Likes: 6
From: Southampton, UK
Bikes: Gazelle Trim Trophy, EG Bates Track Bike, HR Bates Cantiflex bike, Nigel Dean fixed gear conversion, Raleigh Royal, Falcon Westminster.
Wow, it actually looks much cooler patinated! The main thing I need on mine is a boost in saddle height. I've bought a quick release seatpost rack which seems ideal, but I've get to try it with my Ortlieb Office Bag 2. Fenders will be on there for Autumn, by which time it'll hopefully have had all the testing it needs by the press. The fenders and the Big Apples make your bike look bulletproof, Rudi!
#6
Part-time epistemologist
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,870
Likes: 3
From: Washington, DC
Bikes: Jamis Nova, Bike Friday triplet, Bike Friday NWT, STRIDA, Austro Daimler Vent Noir, Hollands Tourer
The coolest thing about RHM's bike is the funky spoke pattern in the wheels.
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A narrative on bicycle driving.
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