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Old 11-21-17, 09:01 AM   #901
bhkyte
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Interesting.
My Mezzo with kojacks is definitely a lot faster than the marathon shod in the same set up. (now sold)
Don't have any data to prove the case.
I don't have a jokack tyre on my birdies to do a rolling resistance test.
I tend to buy what I know. And don't have experience with the "racer "model or "duno "
Marathons can be a quickish tyre if pumped up very firm.
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Old 11-21-17, 09:03 AM   #902
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Does anyone need a brand new bidie stem for an integrated headset framed bike?
Don't fit my older model.
It's a shame as the mk4 stem is a work of art!
Gladly swop for birdie kit also.
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Old 11-29-17, 07:53 AM   #903
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wheels suggestions

So I just upgraded to shimano 105 10 speed with some gear skipping issues.. everytime i shifted to lower gear i need to shift down twice and back up once to be on the gear i wanted.. any info on that?

Also there're creaking noises from the front wheel (not sure) when riding the bike. Is it common? didn't experienced it before upgraded.

now im looking for a new wheelset, but still on the fence for staying with 18" or going for 20". any suggestions ?
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Old 11-29-17, 02:07 PM   #904
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Having to change up and down like you describe is due to two possible reasons.
1) lack of spring return in the cable system. Ie brake levers springs or drailler springs weak.
More likely
2) stiff cables.
Try oilling the cable first insitu use gravity to feed in down. Maybe turn upside down etc.
If that doesnt work..
Take inner out and coat with 3in1 or simular lube.
Inspect for kinks in the cable. Sometimes hidden. But can be confirmed if remove inner. Check inner slide cleanly through outer else out damaged.

You can change to teflon linned innercables and better outters.
I dont find birdies need it.

Another solution is add an inline spring somehow. Pen springs work well with some imagination.

Lastly check your cable end terminals.
Sometimes the groment wears out and the cable is not held in place properly.
I now fit brass spoke washers to strengthen them.
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Old 11-29-17, 02:24 PM   #905
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Originally Posted by sicknsore View Post
Also there're creaking noises from the front wheel (not sure) when riding the bike. Is it common? didn't experienced it before upgraded.
I had a creak coming from the front. It turned out to be the front fork pivots - disassembling, cleaning, lubing, reassembling sorted it out. (I seem to vaguely recall reading somewhere that the pivots were maintenance free and shouldn't be touched. But it solved my problem, and doesn't seem to have caused any issues in the 10 years since... Still, YMMV and caveat emptor..)
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Old 11-29-17, 06:30 PM   #906
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhkyte View Post
Having to change up and down like you describe is due to two possible reasons.
1) lack of spring return in the cable system. Ie brake levers springs or drailler springs weak.
More likely
2) stiff cables.
Try oilling the cable first insitu use gravity to feed in down. Maybe turn upside down etc.
If that doesnt work..
Take inner out and coat with 3in1 or simular lube.
Inspect for kinks in the cable. Sometimes hidden. But can be confirmed if remove inner. Check inner slide cleanly through outer else out damaged.

You can change to teflon linned innercables and better outters.
I dont find birdies need it.

Another solution is add an inline spring somehow. Pen springs work well with some imagination.

Lastly check your cable end terminals.
Sometimes the groment wears out and the cable is not held in place properly.
I now fit brass spoke washers to strengthen them.
thanks for the detailed tips, as you said it might just the shifter cable.. in my case, the rear cable somehow got tangled in the process of unfolding the bike. always forgot to check that part before riding
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Old 11-29-17, 06:33 PM   #907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yangmusa View Post
I had a creak coming from the front. It turned out to be the front fork pivots - disassembling, cleaning, lubing, reassembling sorted it out. (I seem to vaguely recall reading somewhere that the pivots were maintenance free and shouldn't be touched. But it solved my problem, and doesn't seem to have caused any issues in the 10 years since... Still, YMMV and caveat emptor..)
will check the front fork pivots then.. thanks
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Old 11-30-17, 03:11 PM   #908
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Originally Posted by sicknsore View Post
will check the front fork pivots then.. thanks
Front fork pivots are maintainable. They can loosen.

Rear frame pivot is discribed as maintence free.
However they do wear out and can be replaced by dealers. Just had mike done.
Dont think birdie sell the bearing set to the public.
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Old 12-06-17, 12:22 AM   #909
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Originally Posted by bhkyte View Post
Front fork pivots are maintainable. They can loosen.

Rear frame pivot is discribed as maintence free.
However they do wear out and can be replaced by dealers. Just had mike done.
Dont think birdie sell the bearing set to the public.
In markets where Birdys are popluar, retailers often sell rear pivot pins. The front pivots come originally with plastic bushings which eventually wear out. Dealers usually carry replacements, some aftermarket manufacturers have front pivot hardware with needle bearings, which last indefinitely. The rear pivot pin is a simple metal shaft clamped in place. Titanium replacements are available. I have net been able to wear out a rear pivot shaft.
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Old 12-06-17, 08:42 AM   #910
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I've recently bought a Birdy with a Shimano Alphine 8 IGH.

I've never used an IGH before (at least not a modern one). Is it normal feel a heavy-ish drag from the hub? If I loosen off the brakes and spin the rear wheel by hand, it will not continue spinning feely like a normal feewheel would.

Secondly, it seems like this Afine 8 has a coaster brake. Meaning it's not possible to pedal backwards. Is that original equipment on the Birdy?

Finally, my rear swingarm clamp is broken. Are metal replacements available? The plastic on doesn't seem very robust.
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Old 12-07-17, 03:35 PM   #911
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The R&M website has replaced the Dual Drive Birdy with the Birdy Touring. Instead of the dual drive, they have 9 speed 9-32T cassette. But I couldn't find information about the hub or the list of all the cogs. The page only states that the cassette is from Sunrace. I'm curious about their spacing. There would be big jumps somewhere. Alternatively I think it may be possible to fit 11-34 or 11-36 on as small as 16" wheels with a Shimano Zee derailleur which has a very short cage.
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Old 12-08-17, 08:32 AM   #912
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Here's a short clip of the problem I have with my Alfine 8 hub. The drag seems far too high to me.

I've opened it up and it seems well greased, but something must be amiss. The drag when not peddling sound like it's coming from the gear side rather than the side with the torque arm.

It can't be that bad as standard can it?

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Old 12-08-17, 03:55 PM   #913
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Originally Posted by mikedefieslife View Post
Here's a short clip of the problem I have with my Alfine 8 hub. The drag seems far too high to me.

I've opened it up and it seems well greased, but something must be amiss. The drag when not peddling sound like it's coming from the gear side rather than the side with the torque arm.
Yes thats not right.


It can't be that bad as standard can it?

https://youtu.be/-K9u-AHHXQA
Yes thats not right.
Is it over greased, or used the wrong grease. Or is the shifter mechanism catching onthe gog?
Over greased would be my guess.
Is it over tightened somehow on the cones somehow?. I only really know nexus hubs.
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Old 12-08-17, 05:18 PM   #914
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Looks like the brake is partially engaged.
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Old 12-09-17, 01:13 AM   #915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikedefieslife View Post
Here's a short clip of the problem I have with my Alfine 8 hub. The drag seems far too high to me.

I've opened it up and it seems well greased, but something must be amiss. The drag when not peddling sound like it's coming from the gear side rather than the side with the torque arm.

It can't be that bad as standard can it?

https://youtu.be/-K9u-AHHXQA
That truly blows.
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Old 12-09-17, 01:49 AM   #916
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It is better when the wheel is out and spin it in my hands but it's still not good.

Took it apart again today. Seems it is very sensitive to the two nuts on the torque arm side of the hub. These need to be very loose, but there is a fine line between having them loose enough to allow the hub to spin nicely, and tight enough to limit play in the hub and bearings.

I've also noticed that I'm missing a spacer where the hub torque arm attaches to the frame. Not sure where I'll find one of those or even what size it should be.

Last edited by mikedefieslife; 12-09-17 at 09:26 AM.
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