Would P-clips such as these solve your problem https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m5b0s215...TORTEC-P-Clips ?

Off topic but what pig nose adapter is that on your Zizzo? I have the Zizzo branded version on my Liberté and it has only 1 attachment point at the bottom of the head tube, limiting me to about 5# carrying limit. How much can you carry? Thanks.

Back to Birdy talk - I've always admired the look and engineering of those bikes and would love to try one someday...

Its H&H. It says it on there in the picture, but it is small. I believe it would fail by the two small screws in the upper flange pulling out or snapping. They say it is good for 8Kg. I have likely overloaded mine a time or two.

You could mount your Zizzo at the top of the head tube. I think that would be better. Not sure why Zizzo shows it mounted below. If you were going to make a funky one legged support, you might as well take advantage of the fact it has only one leg.

Just come across this thread while searching for all things Birdy related. I've recently converted a Mk1 Birdy to a Nexus 8 speed IGH. I was finding the chain prone to slipping off the cassette when folding with the previous derailleur as well as it being more prone to picking up dirt (my intention is to convert it to belt drive at some point.

I used a Brompton chain tensioner which, with some judicious fettling, mounts to the back of the derailleur hanger and lines up perfectly with the rear sprocket. I'm tempted to drill the underside the swing arm so I can route the gear cable up the inside. Also to come are some lights to wire into a dynohub up front.

On that note, what are the preferred mounting points for a front light? It feels like options are limited with the fold.

I would post some pics but currently not up to the 10 post threshold

There is an option to put the light on the front fork in a support sold on Aliexpress, but I don't think that is such a good solution, I would put it directly on the handlebar.
I'm already looking forward to you making your 10 posts, so you can post photos of your bike and details. I'm planning to do the same with an Alfine 11, plus a front engine.

The factory front light mounting is on the left side of the fork with a special plate attached to the inner side of the fork threaded hole (the same threaded hole used for the pin that holds the front wheel folded on the right side of the fork).

Yes, I considered the front fork but agree that, as the bounciest piece on the whole bike, it's probably not ideal. I was thinking handlebar too, and running the cable up with the front brake cable in a wrap. One annoyance is that Shimano dynamo hubs have to be mounted with the connector on the opposite side.

That's neat. Do you know if R&M sell the mounts separately?

Yes, they do, I bought one for my Birdy Titanium that wasn't factory equipped with lights.

Now, the fork of the several Birdy models, Birdy 1, Birdy 2 and Birdy 3 are different, there is a different one for Birdy <2016 but is it usable for a Birdy 1 (before 2016 there were the Birdy 1, Birdy 2 hydroformed frame and Birdy 2 World with frame made of tubes like for the Birdy 1 but a different one) ?

The one for Birdy <2016 (sorry, its a Dutch webshop).
The one for Birdy from 2016 = Birdy 3 (same Dutch webshop).

Ah - sadly they don't ship to the UK - I could probably bodge something similar though.

Hi marcoarrieta - I think I'm up to my 10 posts, so here goes:

Notes about the conversion:

1. Buying the vertical dropout kit (blue and green) and swapping them over puts the cassette arm at the right angle.
2. The cassette arm needs bending out slightly to avoid snagging the chain but is fine once this is done.
3. The Brompton tensioner works really well and, IMO, looks better than the one R&M use on their IGH models. However, mounting it requires a bit of hacking about:
   1. You need to cut the shape of the hanger into the ring on the front of the tensioner (see third pic) and then bolt to the back of the hanger with an allen bolt and large washer. I used a hacksaw and file but a Dremel would be better.
   2. In order to bolt the tensioner to the hanger, the wheel needs to be in place, which then blocks access to the bolt. I solved this by drilling out the rest to make a hollow bolt I could run an allen key through from the front (you'll see from the third pic again that my drilling was slightly off centre).
   3. There's a lug on the leading edge of the tensioner mount which also needs filing off as it snags with the selector in top gear (this will be apparent when you try to mount it).

As I said up thread, I'm considering drilling a hole in the bottom of the swing arm so I can run the gear cable inside it instead of the cable tie.

Yes, I know, they only ship to The Netherlands and Belgium but any Riese & Müller dealer (even if they sell only R&M ebikes and do not sell the Birdy) can order these parts for you and any Birdy spare part if you tell them what part you need.

Your solution that use a Brompton chain tensionner on a Birdy is very nice. Its only drawback is that it works only on a bike without rear derailleur.

I ended up bodging a brake spacer into service for the front light, as well as routing the gear cable through the swing arm:

Nice upgrade.

But Riese & Müller mount the lights on the left side, the front light is less exposed to shock while carrying the folded Birdy when its on the left side.

Ah yes, I'm in the UK where it makes more sense to have it mounted on the right.

Yes, I can imagine, but the rear wheel folds on the left side of the main tube and the stem over it, both protect the front light when its on the left side of the fork.

It's great to see your modifications and fixes, they are very creative.
The only thing I'm a bit hesitant about are the holes in the frame. Aren't you worried about possible cracks? Can you think of a solution to reinforce the hole area?
My project is an electric birdy with a front engine and an IGH at the back and a belt drive.
(photos coming soon)

There's only one hole and it's in a flat section on the underside of the arm with plenty of structural strength in the fold of the square tubing either side of it, so I'm not too worried about cracks.

Looking forward to seeing pics of yours

FYI, there were Birdy with factory installed hub motor but only with rear hub motor, not with front hub motor. Not sure that the fork is strong enough to accept a hub motor?

It seems to me that the front fork with its parallelogram structure is more solid than the rear fork with a single fat arm without structural support and it is easier to put an anti-torsion arm on the front.
The problem I found is that only two motors fit in it.
The 4.5 kg crystalyte 406 and the motor of the Xiaomi QiCYCLE EF1 bike, only 1.5 kg.
First I am going to try with the crystalyte because they sold it to me with the rim already installed
The other one I have to assemble myself and it will take me a few weeks when I have everything ready and if I am not mistaken when taking the measurements of the spokes

Regarding the holes, I would like to make a hole in the main frame tube and pass the cables through it, but I fear that would cause greater structural damage.

this is my girl and the 2 possible motors, with out battery , arrive today

Where are you thinking of mounting the battery?

For optimal weight distribution I have a 10ah battery that will hang under the tube, pulled backwards.
And I was thinking of a second battery of another 10ah, but I don't know if it will hang from the seat backwards or if I will use the rear rack.
I have to see how it feels when I ride it and if I really need a second battery.
and surely the weights will vary with the second much lighter engine

​​​​​​I'd be tempted to mount a single battery on the rear rack and run its cable through the guides along with the brake and gear cables.

​​​​​Have you tried folding it with the 4.5kg motor in place? I'd imagine it makes it quite hard?