Yes. There is a small barrel on the shifter just where tha cabelhousing is going in. Sometimes it is in the other end of the cable, where it is attached to the rear der. or IGH.

When I say micro adjustments I don't mean a one time tuneup of the cable but a continuous micro adjustments that I need to do while riding. For example, if I am in 2.4 gear and shift up the rear derailleur to get to 2.7, I need to twist the front derailleur shifter one click toward the 3 to avoid contact between the front derailleur cage and the chain. If I go down to 2.2, I need to twist the front shifter toward the 1.

Kam

That's not at all abnormal. My £1500 Moulton used to do that on the largest and smallest chainwheel. If you have a wide block on the back (the moulton had ten sprockets at the back) as you move far away from the centre sprocket on the block when you have the chain on #1 or #3 chainwheel, the chain is bound to be operating at quite an angle on occasions, hence it rubs on the front mec cage and the rider needs to make a small adjustment.

Bikes usually need a bit of hands on attention. It's part of their charm.

+1

I just realized that the OP didn't have the SRAM DD.

Yes, trimming the front derailer a bit is not that unusual when the chain is at the more severe angles. Although ...

(1) it generally signals that you should shift front rings
(2) you should still be able to adjust the front derailer such that the middle ring can reach seven if not all of the cogs in the rear without rubbing.

Folding the bike with a front derailer is a little more tricky too. You need to be a little careful -- there is a good technique -- to avoid bending the front derailer/mount when folding/unfolding.

A quick update. I got my bike back from a LBS and the shifting seems to be smoother (just tested it briefly in the parking lot). When I got home I realized that I cannot get to the 8th gear (regardless of the front gear). I tinkered with them at home and they seem to be better (no load, bikes are upside down). It is not perfect though, when I in 2.1 or 2.2 gear, the chain hits occasionally the large chain ring and I don't know how to control it. I will test them this weekend weather permitted.

I have about 2 weeks to decide if I want to keep the bikes as are or to upgrade to an internal gear (either a Rohloff or a smaller internal gear with two chainrings). Hopefully the right decision will surface in the next few days.

Thanks,

Kam

just buy the Rohloff man!
no more headaches, no more learing curve, just smooth shifts all up and down the 500% spread!
other advantages:
shift while stopped
shift several gerars in one motion
simplified drivetrain
lifetime warranty and excellent service
do you need any more convincing?
(i do not work for Rohloff, i just wish i had the cash to get one of their hubs right now.. i am saving my pennies)

I agree with you and I own two Rohloffs, but just to keep the facts straight the warranty on a Rohloff is 2 years.

That's a slippery slope. What's next, giving away my Beta video recorder and buying a Tivo ;-)

Seriously, throwing money at a problem is sometimes less satisfying than resolving it. I have about 2 weeks to make my mind. I am sure the right decision will surface by then.

Kam

Yea, sometimes. Sometimes satisfaction is equal, and othertimes: Rohloff... (drool....)

You should know that BF does not sell bare frames - this is because they've ensured that they're bikes can and will work well with gearing options that they've spec'ed. Something must be wrong with your specific setup. If I turned the barrel adjustment on your rear derailleur 3 times, I'd have the same problems too.

Best advice is what someone else gave : learn how to do your own bike maintenance. If you're traveling with this bike, it will be a must. You won't be able to always find someone to do these things for you, and you'll spend a lot more time in driving it to a shop than you would in fixing it yourself. The first tune up you pay for by a shop will have paid for all of the basic tools you need. The second tuneup will have paid for all the tools you'll ever need for almost all maintenance possible.

In a situation like this, I sometimes focus on this saying that I made up myself:

It isn't new 'stuff' and new people that makes you happy - what makes you happy is what you do with what you've got.'

Or:

A NWT needs a front shifter with has 4 shifting positions, that's why, for example even if you asked, BF will not sell you Shimano XT shifters (that only have 3 positions) but will provide shimano R440 shifters.
How many shifting positions do you have? 3 or 4 ?

I have never had any shifting problems with my shimano R440 : http://www.dramaix.com
Just forget about your twist shifters....

I have a twist shifter with 3 labeled positions but the number of clicks is larger may7 or 10.

How do you use a 4 position shifter with a 3 cahinring front derailleur?

Kam

I have a Shimano flatbar shifter (R440?) with 3 main positions but there are 2 additional trim settings for the small and middle ring which are in-between the main settings, and are accessed by careful half-shifts.

Vik,
Why does the Alfine on the NWT need a chain tensioner? Is it because the dropouts are vertical and you can't tension the chain by moving the wheel in the dropouts? Or is it something else?

I never see tensioners on Rohloffs, so I'm a bit confused why you need one on the Alfine/Nexus. I can't locate the Sheldon Brown "chain tension" article at the moment, which might answer my question.

Yup, vertical dropouts. Rohloff actually produces a chain tensioner for those stuck with vertical dropouts, so that is a configuration that's out there.