As promised, here she is. Not exactly ready for her close up but hopefully within 3-6 months she will be.

Sybil..jpgHandlebar & stem..jpgBrake lever and shifter..jpg
backwheel..jpgCorroded stem bolt. No lever..jpgCrankset..jpg
Notice levers at hinge and Seat post. No lever for stem...jpgSaddle & Seatpost..jpg

Pic 1 - Sybil

Pic 2 - Handlebars and stem. Both were painted but it seems that I can easily scrape the paint off if I plan to keep them. If I can get a taller stem, I'll keep the handlebars.

Pic 3 - Shifter and brake levers - I think they are original to the folder. Is that correct? Whatever the case, I'll try to keep the shifter. I don't know about the brake levers. I may get new brakes, which means that the brake levers go.

Will be getting new grips. Left one is cracked beyond repair.

Pic 4 - Back wheel - Note hub which is shining up nicely. Will work with existing hub, if possible.

Down the line I'll probably replace the tires for alloy ones. My nephew thinks I need new rims. I need a valve cap. Tires will have to stay for now.

Pic 5 - Very corrode stem bolt - No lever. The stem is being held together by this bolt. Anyone know how I can get a replacement lever?

Pic 6 - Crankset. Chain seems good just needs more cleaning and lots of lube. Pedals will be replacing with folding pedals. I don't plan to replace the crankset.

Pic 7 - Seat post and hinge levers. Both still work. The hinge lever was painted over but not the seatpost one. it's just full of rust. Would like to get the third lever for the stem to complete the look.

Pic 8 - Saddle and bike rack - Bike rack in good shape. Shows that it was made in Switzerland. Is this the original to the folder you think? the underside of the saddle has lots of rust still. The mechanism holding the saddle is still full of rust. Will probably replace the seat post and definitely the saddle.

In addition to the above, will be checking the headset.

At this point I'll be stripping her for painting. While the painting process is being done, I'll be buying parts. I've loads of questions re parts but that will be another time. I'm beat.

Any other suggestions/recommendations re upgrades?

Looks like it is pretty much all there. The shifter is original, but missing the clear plastic cover that went over it (pictures later). I don't know where to find a lever, however there are several options that would work. The rack is original it is the Pletscher brand. I have my 1971 Twenty with me on the road. I will try and get some close up pictures for you so you can see what it is supposed to look like. Nothing wrong with the brake levers on your bike, but if you upgrade the brakes you may need to swap them for something more compatible. Alloy rims are good, that was one of the first things I had to do on my bike because the old rims were toast.

Aaron

A cheap option for "new rims" is to buy a cheap BMX front wheel; I once got one for relatively cheap at a bigger bike chain store. That would need some savvy.

And for the rear, https://www.utahtrikes.com/PRODINFO-S...Wheel_Kit.html is not bad, although not quite in the spirit of the great game. But that would cost you less than having a bike shop replace the rim.

You are not likely to get another L bolt; what you might do as an option is to get a normal seatpost collar clamp, and use the original L bolt for the front.

Have a read at https://sheldonbrown.com/raleigh-twenty.html.

I suggest signing on at www.raleightwenty.webs.com--a new site for Raleigh 20 afficianados. You should be able to get answers to future questions.

Congrats on your long-sought Twenty, it looks like it will clean up nicely with some effort! I'd suggest the DIY paint job, let your nephew go nuts with the graffiti paint and you'l have something truly unique. I believe I have a handlebar with good chrome that I'll give you.

Before you sink too much cash into it, consider that there may be a cleaner example in your future. There was a pair of complete Twenties on the Jacksonville craiglist recently for $125. Don't know if that's local to you, but it does illustrate that they're out there...

I bought a 3 speed rim from Utah Trikes and decided not to use it. You can have it for $60 shipped.

Aaron - May have to ditch the brakes if I can't fix the rear brake lever unit.. It's held by a steel band (see pic #3) which is so loose that the entire brake lever unit is practically spinning around on the handlebar. I'd like to keep them especially since I put some rear brake pads which (with the front brake) enables me to stop the bike safely. How can I tighten this band? I can't figure it out.

jur/Dyno. My nephew and I took a second look at the rims and beyond cosmetic reasons, they're sound enough to keep for now. Definitely helps with the budget on this. Since I'm keeping the rims, I'll be ordering the Kool Stop Continental brake pads. The ones I have now are good enough but not the best.

airwulf - I already belong to that website. However, my immediate questions re the R20 are answered quicker here. However, in the future I'll be sure to spread the love.

Chris - Thanks for the offer of the handlebars. Could I impose upon you to post a pic of them? It may not be the type that I can actually use.

I'll definitely be replacing the handlebars and stem. Would like a taller stem and a handlebar with more of a back sweep, which leads me to a request to all R20 fans.

All R20 Fanaticos - Can you confirm the basic measurements below so I'm not poking in the dark when it comes to ordering these parts online?

Stem - Old one inch/22.2 mm threaded stem/ 23.8 diameter or
New one inch /22.2 mm threaded stem / 25.4 diameter?

Handlebar - Old 23.8 or New 25.4?

Seatpost - 28.6 mm?

Brakes - Long Reach Caliper?

The seatpost and brakes measurements I got form the Raleigh Twenty website so I'm going to assume they are correct.

The stem/handlebar measurement I got from an old Sheldon Brown article but he seemed to be talking about old Raleighs in general and not specifically about the R20. Would like confirmation on those measurements in particular.

Sunny,
To tighten the brake lever you need to squeeze the lever and look on the underside in the opening, their is a slotted screw under there that will tighten up the band. You may need to loosen the brake cable first. I typically do that by removing the nut that holds the barrel adjuster to the brake and popping it off the brake. I will try to get a picture up over the weekend.

Aaron

These are the bars I had in mind, but I think they're the same as the ones on your bike, I didn't realize you wanted something different:

Aaron - My apologies for not paying close attention to your instructions the first time you told me. Yes, once I squeezed the brake lever and shined a flashlight into the openning, I saw the screw you were referring to. It took seconds to tighten the band. Thanks so much for your patience . No need for pics then.

Between tightening the brake levers, putting better brakes pads and grips, giving Sybil her daily run is getting a whole lot safer these days.

Chris - Thanks for putting the pic up. Yep, they look pretty much like the handlebars I now have. BTW, that's some beautfiul bike. I love the color and that crazy bike rack.

Glad you got it Sunny, sometimes a picture is better than words. The bike above is a Moulton...another British Beast and just as addictive as the Twentys.

Aaron

Thanks, that was the bike as I found it, it still has some transforming to do...

Ok, it has begun----

Phase One - Stripping/Consultation/Ordering of Parts and Painting

We've striped the R20 down and while my nephew sands and primes the folder in his garage, I'm giving the various components a good scrub on my patio this weekend. In the next couple of weeks, I'll be helping him paint and top coat it. They'll be a lot of sanding and curing in between.

We also went to my favorite LBS today for a R20 consultation of sorts.

He concurs with us that the original brake levers, calipers and even the seat and seatpost are worth salvaging, once we've cleaned and taken the surface grit, grease and rust off some of the parts. We definitely need new cables and housing for both the brakes and shifter. Hub is sound. Needs more scrubbing, especially around the rings. I can clean the chain but it may be easier just to replace it. It also seems pretty tight, which means that someone, at one time, replaced the chain except it wasn't the ideal length.

Although the wheels are heavy, there's nothing wrong with them and so he advised I work with them to keep costs down. I can always spring for better wheels at a later date.

The only thing he advised for immediate replacement was the stem. It seems like the stem that was put in there was just being held by the stem bolt and that's all. Since I was getting a new stem, I sprung for new riser handlebars too. I also ordered Kool Stop Continental brake pads since I'm keeping the wheels. I'll probably get a new thumb shifter but only if I can't figure out how to work with the original one. I'll be getting a new chain. I have extra pedals that will fit the R20 for now but eventually I'll get folding pedals along with a new seat post and coiled saddle.

After the painting and getting the initial parts ordered, then we go to:

Phase Two - Putting the bike back together again which includes re cabling/reconnecting the brakes
and shifter.

This is the tough part. Luckily my nephew has a certain amount of general bike knowledge, which he is sharing with me. He's a good and patient teacher. Under his guidance I'll be putting in the brakes, etc. However, if worst comes to worst and we both get stuck on something, I won't hesitate to give it to the LBS to resolve it, assuming I don't send out an S.O.S. via the forum.

I would love to spring for a 5 speed hub and alloy wheels but unless Santa Claus is really good to me or I sell one of my two bikes, it'll have to wait for next year's budget. I've already over spent this year due to a family emergency. Hell, I shouldn't of bought the R20 but I couldn't pass up the opportunity and Sybil looked so sad and forgotten in that shed.

Are you putting together a photo album?

No I don't think so. It's gonna be before and after pics. You've already seen the before pics.

The exception to the above would be pics I would take to illustrate any problems we find along the way that we can't resolve.

As much as I enjoy a good challenge periodically with a restoration project or two, I do have to remind myself that even my newest bike is not worth much more than two hundred or so US dollars. So I do limited myself to upgrades and improvements that I actually need and can use. I made a point to salvage all the parts I can from the Twenty first, then use other donor bikes (like my former Dahons) for parts, finally opting to buy brand new parts from my LBS. All this while I kept in mind safety first, then adopt the features I just loved from my newer bikes and incorporating into the Twenty as best as I (or the bike shop) can. That is how I kept the price tag as low as possible Plus I remember my own limitations as to actually doing the mechanical work all by myself (as much as I can, then turn over to the bike shop).


I was lucky that my particular bike did not need a paint job. I just jumped into getting my hands dirty with the clean-up, then observed the mechanic do the parts exchanges. During this "time off" I designed and sewed 2 bags for this bike.

Good plan.

I bought my own Twenty from the food money allowance of that week. My mother thought that it was a very good idea to grab the bike while it was available-we just ate very cheap that week. Then I took my time to raise funds (sell the Piccolo in my case) to pay the bike shop and use that downtime of waiting for a buyer, meanwhile clean the bike up to examine if it was a worthwhile bike to do a salvage operation, and familiarize myself with it's features. The alloy wheels are not as much as you think. My really nice new BMX front one was only 30 dollars and the rear was a salvage from the Boardwalk. If I had to buy a wheel, I would have probably paid around 150-200 to have one built up around a nice 3 or even 8 speed Sturney-Archer hub. The Boardwalk's salvage rear wheel was actually a customize job my father ordered for the Boardwalk to be a 3 speed bike instead of it's original state single speed. I kept it for both semimental reasons as well as this particular Sturmey Archer AW internal hub was one of the last ones actually made in England in 2000. It seem to be made for this bike.

Just remember that each bike, circumstances, and projected outcomes are different for each person. Let that be your guide.

Folder Fanatic - Thanks so much for the feedback on this. As always your insight (as well as others) have been invaluable to me. I'm desperately trying to keep this on budget but I'm tempted to sell one of my bikes to build up the R20 nicely.

And yes, it may be the Speed D7 I'm thinking of putting on the auction block. We're not getting along.

Funny but my beloved trike is named Bertha and the R20 is Sybil but I've not named the Speed D7. I think that's a hint that I don't want to get too attached to the folder. However, I'm holding off on putting it on Craig's list. I'm hoping for a breakthrough in the next 3-6 months with this folder who seems more intent on killing me of late.

In contrast, when I ride the R20, she gets a little cranky and rides slow & heavy, but she turns where I want her to turn.

Getting back to the R20, I do have a budget I largely adhere too and I think I can squeeze money from the furniture allowance. I had planned to buy a new sofa but didn't. Yet, that's where I offset the money to buy the Speed D7.

However, I have a few bucks left in that allowance and between a small state refund & the remaining furniture allowance, I'll be able to redo the R20 as described, which will include one emergency visit to the LBS.