No, just swapping the fork would not work to facillitate a change to ISO headset -- the inside diameter of the frame at the headtube/outside diameter of the headset cups are also different between ISO and JIS specs.

More typically, 5mm for both hanger and cable bolts.

Thanks for the corrections, mconlonx. I had forgotten about the head tube ID difference.

I guess that means that we can either run what we've got, upgrade to a better threaded JIS headset, find a thread- less JIS fork for use with an JIS aheadset like the Woodman, or upgrade to ISO by machining down the head tube (what, .2mm?), machining down the fork crown seat (.6mm?) and getting a new ISO headset.

Damn, it makes popping $200 for the blue Hatta JIS not sound so bad...except that's 2/3 the cost of the whole bike!

It's been too long without a pic, too, so here's one that I pulled off the Internet that relates to Brooks (though I think Dynocoaster's setup looks more appropriate with the retro style saddle!) query above. It's also a reminder that a threadless quill adapter can open up stem options for us.

http://farm8.static.flickr.com/7176/...2c6fa75311.jpg

I *think*, it goes something like : if you handlebar is above the saddle, get the b17 ( lots of versions ) ... if your handlebar is lower, then go with a pro, team or swallow.

As you correctly say, you can ream the headtube out and mill the crown race down, allowing the bike to accept standard headsets. This requires special tools and a level of competency. Most local bike shops lack both. Best to find a framebuilder for such jobs.

I'd be interested to know if the latest run of Nanos is still JIS standard in the headset. It looks like a few things have been changed up.

P,I got mine...what, less than two months ago? It appears to have the same headset as older ones: black, with a knurled upper race.Could I take a revealing measurement without removing the crown race or lower cup?

I just installed these brakes on my Nano and there is a BIG improvement in stopping power. Great choice.

Im so tempted to remodel my bike to look like one of these http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=267269 ; taken from : http://gear11.blogspot.com/2010/11/j...-for-2011.html

why do they have such good looking mini velos? btw my saddle is about the same height as my handlebar. Does that mean I can go either way? (brooks 17 or pro? 176mm or something on b17 seems too wide for nano though..)

Bike picture! Got the Kojaks, white tape, black levers and the white Tektros. :thumb:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=267271

:cry:

I went for a 10mile ride yesterday and I noticed that I wasn't able to shift on my lowest gear. The RD was having a difficult time shifting and it would make ugly sounds. I got home and noticed this:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=267277

So now I guess I'm going to have to get a new RD. I changed the low limit screw on the RD so it can't try and shift to the lowest gear. Looks like I'm going to go with that new crankset and RD and BB sooner than expected. Thoughts? Any help would be fine. I'll probably take it into my LBS to get it adjusted if I can.

Damn and I was having a lot of fun on the bike. So I'm thinking I'm going to start some serious upgrading on this bike. Any help would be appreciated.

Here's what I'm thinking:
1. Tiagra rear derailler
2. Shimano FC-4500 Tiagra Crankset Hollowtech II
3. Hollowtech II Bottom Bracket
4. 11-32 cassette

Not sure if I'd need a new chain or not. I've been reading through a lot of bike literature and it seems "9 speed" gear works with "8 speeds" so I'm not too concerned. Should I take this over to the mechanics forum?
[h=1][/h]

Buff,

It looks like just the lower cage is bent (hanger looks good), so I'd probably go ahead and try to bend it back in line. I recently did that on my Buzz with good results. You can probably use your hand, or a big Channel-Lock plier on the cage.

The other thing to check is the B Tension screw; it's hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like there may be room to loosen it up and bring the tension pulley up closer to the cogs, which may improve shifting.

While you're at it, check your pulley bolts that they're not too tight, as mine were. I backed out the bolts a bit and it ran much quieter. A dash of blue Loctite is a good idea when reinstalling.

Your bike looks good, though!

Not that I know of. Not only that, measuring the crown race doesn't always tell you much. There were bikes that used the ISO cup size and a JIS crown race, not unusual for a long period in the eighties. You could contact Bikesdirect and see if they know...

Looks like bent (outward) derailleur hanger.

I really, really hope that this isn't it. Would the fork end be ruined or can I bend it back myself? There is no hanger, it's a direct mount.

So on the bikesdirect site it says that it has a replaceable rear derailleur hangar. It looks like it is part of the frame when I look at it and compare it to my other bike. It looks as if there's a washer between the RD and the dropout. Could that be the hangar? From all of the websites I've seen a mech hanger is different from what I have on my bike.

It is not a replaceable hanger; the hanger is part of the dropout. Yes, you could bend it back yourself, but if you're unable to visually determine it's bent, I would recommend you instead take it to a shop and have them, at least, assess the problem, and from there decide if it's a fix you want the shop to do, or if you want to do it yourself.

Properly straightening hangers is something that I think is worth doing, and if you don't have the tools, have a shop do it.

Did you receive the bike with a bent hanger?

No idea if I did or not. The thing never really shifted well to begin with. I'm thinking it was bent before I got it, but I have no proof.

It's only been recently that I've been tinkering and learning about bike mechanics. I may just buy the part to straighten the derailleur and get my hands dirty. I just don't want to damage the bike.

If it is the hanger, the job is best done with the proper alignment tool. However, the newer Nanos are advertised as having replacable hangers.

After riding for a while, it seems that mini velos don't go as fast as I'd like it to be... A friend of mine who is a student from Korea (they happen to have a lot of mini velos there) isn't fond of them because of the speed :( are there upgrades out there to make the nano faster? what kind of chain ring and cassette do you think would improve its speed? >:D

You are not the first to wonder these things. You should start at post #1 and read this thread. It's not so long, there are plenty of answers to your questions posted there, and answers to questions you haven't even imagined yet. Additionally, this thread appears to be the prime resource for the Nano, so it will behoove you to dedicate some time and energy to reading it if you plan to learn more and modify your Nano.

Well, I have read a good amount (very informative) but I guess I still lack experience and knowledge when it comes to bikes D: However, this forum has been quite helpful to me and I thank y'all for that. As far as cassettes go, is it possible to fit an SRAM 11-23 on our hubs?

If you can go with a 11-32 and the stock cassette is 11-25 then 11-23 is certainly doable. I'm surprised you want to go with that gearing, but different strokes. It would kill on some of the hills we have in New Mexico, but if you live in Rhoad Island then you'd be fine.

I want to upgrade the large chainring to a 56T one, but I've already spent on a lot on this bike (I have an 11-28 cassette).

I'm still waiting on the arrival of a black, FSA Pro 44 tooth inner chainring, but I was so pleased with the looks and performance of this Origin 8 54 tooth outer, that I couldn't wait to post it!

The combo black/silver chainring looks hot, weighs about half of the stock unit, and shifts like the dickens, thanks to the pins, I guess. Truly an upgrade by any and all measures.

http://p6.hostingprod.com/@chaadthom...nano_aug12.jpg

I'm planning to order a Shimano HG50 corn cob 12-21 road cassette to complete my drivetrain mods. I think the 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21 tooth spread will keep me in the sweet spot for hustlin' around town on the 54t. The 44t will give me bail-out gearing in case I ever get a wild hair you-know-where and decide to ride this anywhere with mountains.

Who can make it sticky?