I have never taken the swing arm apart but if the manual says sealed bearings then I assume there is no ajustment. It likely that the bearings will be standard off the shelf items so if you can remove them take them to a bearing suppliers and ask if they can supply replacements.

Nevermind! Found the creak that was bugging me - the non-drive-side bottom bracket cup was no more than finger tight. The square taper crank bolts were also suspiciously easy to get off. And finally, there was no grease (and a bit of rust) between the seatpost clamp and the frame!

Only spooky thing is that, after cleaning the seatpost clamp, very lightly greasing the outside of the frame seatpost tube, sliding the clamp on (so it rests on the little fully extended set screw?), and tightening it securely down... the seat post won't slide through, it hits the rim of the seat tube!

I loosened off the clamp, and the seatpost slides in fine. What seems to happen is that as soon as I tighten the seatpost allen clamp bolt more than 5-10 ft-lb, the seatpost starts to get a bit difficult to slide... Anyone know if this is a problem, or should I just leave it loose-ish?

Difficult without seeing it. Advise is for newer taller version of clamp that has two adjustment clamp bolts.
Maybe the bolt that attaches clamp to frame is too tight, and your clamp qr loose.

Is the tiny grub screw at the front all the way out and it catching this. The role of this adjustment is to push the rubber shim inwards. There is another tiny grub screw that holds the rubber shim in place.

So 4 adjustments. Wounder if tightened up clamp too much and distorted top of seatpost tube.

Too true

Definitely could have been a problem, on my first tighten I cranked the frame bolt fairly tight (15 ft-lb?). The seatpost tube isn't distorted to the eye (but I didn't get my micrometer out). However, if I loosen the frame bolt, the problem is resolved and the seat post slides freely

I tried adjusting the grub screws, they aren't the problem. The top one holds the rubber shim in place. The bottom one, however, doesn't seem to be a shim adjustment. It doesn't touch the rubber shim, instead it seems to act as a spacer between the rubber shim and the frame seat tube. It creates an air gap that corresponds to the gap machined in the seatpost clamp between the frame bolt and the seatpost QR.

Anyhow, as it is it's fine - I've fastened the seatpost clamp loosely, and it won't have much upward force applied so it's not going to pop off, right?

A 2010 Mezzo D9 with straight top tube is on eBay UK. It has the older rear brake and I believe older front wheel fixing. Are there any other changes I should be aware of from the present, updated edition? Can I upgrade these parts myself ; ie at least the brake and front wheel attachment?

Steve

The D9 and D10 curve are fitted with V brakes, the straight frame models are fitted with dual pivot caliper brakes. I have no experience of the curve models but the straight frame model are standard fitting so if you want to upgrade the components any dual pivot caliper should do. I am not aware of any difference in the front wheel attachment between the two frame types.

hi the difference is spoken about earliwr in this or the upgrading mezzo thread.
newer fprk qr mpre secure but older ok. need more tools to remove wheel on older version. I bought the whole fork and qr and muddguard from mezzo to upgrade my older black bike For 100 pounds . Newer seat post clamp 12 pounds. brakes no real change but fit teflon coated innera and better pads Are well worth ffitting at the rear.
not alot else is different.

Don't let it put you off an older bike if the price right. not sure if mezzo spares still obtainable.

The bikes are still available to buy so I hope the spares will still be available as well.

Trying to figure out what bottom bracket tool is needed to get the original BB off a D9. I thought it was a Shimano/ISIS 20 slot internal spline one? The slots in the cups do not look like the pictures I've seen here Park Tool Co. » BBT-32 : Bottom Bracket Tool : Bottom Bracket though. The BB cups have 4 groups of 3 small slots spaced by 4 larger slots, but maybe this tool will fit..

My BB is clunking on every downstroke - either bearing gone or loose cups.

Bill

Maybe also check the chainring bolts and the chain catcher.

I had a look at the BB on my Mezzo I4 and it is the same as yours. I have never seen one like that before. If I get time over the weekend I will see if my Shimano BB tool fits.

None of these look right?
Park Tool Co.

Or swop out for a carbon crank with hallow tech bb.
Some road racer will be selling off last years model cheaply on ebay.
You may need a bb spacer if you do this also.

Good news, the Shimano tool fits.

Bottom bracket with crank removed:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=394096

With the tool in place:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=394097


http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=394098

Hi Folks
I'm new to this forum and i am looking for my first used Mezzo. I really want a D9 as I use my folders for touring as well as commuting and the extra gears are essential. That said there are more i4's around and they tend to sell for a bit less. Is it feasible to convert the i4 to the 9 gear system found on the D9 and is it cost effective please? I have mechanical skills but I haven't done much beyond routine maintenance and tuning on bikes. Sorry if my question is naive , but we all have to start somewhere.

Thanks

Dexterdobe

I would convert the i4 to a nexus8 or afline8 or 11 for touring. This will go straight on , just swallow cost of a wheel build...
Its worth it.
Else go the dual drive route which needs a little problem solving skills but works really well. If you go dual drive cpq recommend s going for a d9 So yyou don't need mech hangers.

Going for a quality ihg means a lot less hasstle as you can keep chain standard , don't need a cassette etc.

It will seem expensive but save the money going for a cheaper i4 and put it towards the wheel build.

Try to get a later model with the better qr systems 2004 onwards??



There is a dual drive mezzo thread.

I have added a suspension telescopic seatpost that can be shared between my mezzos. That was very cheap and may be good at reducing mezzos harsh ride.

Welcome Dexterdobe. I am with Bhkyte on this. I have basically done what you are describing, albeit converting and I4 to Sram dual drive. My advice is do not get an I4 get a D9 instead.
To convert an I4 into a D9 you need:
- A new wheel or rebuild the old rim into a new hub.
- A 9 speed cassette.
- A rear mech.
- A new rear mech hanger or file/machine the old one down as its too fat.
- A 9 speed shifter.
- A larger chainring because the existing will be under-geared.
- Potentially a longer chain, especially if you go for a larger chainring.
- A lot of spare time and money.

I did all the work myself but I have the skills and equipment to do it but I wouldn't recommend it because of the time involved and because the price difference between the two models is less than the cost of the additional parts.
If you wanted to convert to a hub gear with more gears such as 8 or 11 then an I4 would be as good choice as an D9.
I would like to try converting either model to a triple chainring, I think it could be done quite cheaply.
Excellent choice of fold bike though, they are well built, compact and a fraction of the price of a more well known small wheeled folding bike. The Mezzo also has a much bigger and more useful rear rack for touring. My dual drive mezzo with bull bars and Kojak tyres is quick and efficient.

Good luck.

I did all the work myself but I have the skills and equipment to do it but I wouldn't recommend it because of the time involved and because the price difference between the two models is less than the cost of the additional parts.
If you wanted to convert to a hub gear with more gears such as 8 or 11 then an I4 would be as good choice as an D9.
I would like to try converting either model to a triple chainring, I think it could be done quite cheaply.
Excellent choice of fold bike though, they are well built, compact and a fraction of the price of a more well known small wheeled folding bike. The Mezzo also has a much bigger and more useful rear rack for touring. My dual drive mezzo with bull bars and Kojak tyres is quick and efficient.

Good luck.[/QUOTE]

Many thanks Guys,

Given that I have little experience of working on bikes I think that I will pay the extra for a D9. I'm sure I will be back for more information later.

Dexterdobe

Hi

Some further thought on conversion. Please bear in mind that I am experienced in car mechanics but new to bikes.
What is it likely to cost me to convert to an 8 or 11 speed hub. Which hub would you recommend and how much would it cost me to have the hub built into my existing wheel?

Thanks

Dexterdobe

Hi. The first thing is the cost of whichever hub you decide to go with. I guess the most common is the Shimano Alfine range of hubs but I think Sram do some as well, have a look on the net for reviews before deciding which is best for you. Second is the cost of the shifter as most gear hubs need a specific shifter and are not generally compatible with dérailleur shifters. If you buy a hub that has the same number of spoke holes as the wheel currently fitted to bike then you can re-use the rum, otherwise you will need a new rim costing between £25 and £40. You will probably need new spokes as the spoke length will be different to your current wheel. Finally the cost of wheel build. Unfortunately I can not help with pricing spokes or labour for the bike shop to build the wheel. As you are mechanically minded you can try building it yourself, there are good books on the subject and lots of info on the net. Getting the spokes the correct length is slightly trickier, I cut my spokes down from longer spokes and then re-threaded them. I bought a spoke threading tool for that job but they are not cheap and the threading process is laborious. If you think you will get into biking and wheel building then get the gear and try building a wheel, otherwise I think getting a bike shop to do it for you will be the better option.

I and afaik, cpq opted for the dual drive as frequently there are good deals on used or new hubs on ebay. I got a 3x7 for less then 30 pounds and my 3x9 was around 100.
Rim about 30 if spoke number not compactable and wheel build about 50.
I opted for dd as I wanted ultergra sti road race shifters , as dd is fully compactable with sram and shimano shifting.
You can also go the road race route with nexus or afline 8 and 11 speeds. But you need a"versa" shifter.

Should be able a hub for about 100 used and a wheel build for 5o to 100 depending if you reuse the rim. Sell the d4 wheel or hub to recoupe some money.

About 150 to 350 total cost should be achievable depending on final decision.

Thanks to both of you guys. I think the thing that will sway my decision is that I can repair the gears on the D9 myself if they go wrong where as a hub is a job for the pros.
Its really good to be able to make a decision based on the experience of others, so thanks again.

Best wishes

Dexterdobe

The geara on the d9 are under geared for fast riding. The chainring can only be increased 2 teeth to a 56 atb informedd me.
Low gears arw easy on small wheeled folders. Gearing up can be more troublesome. The advantage of ihg is the overdrive.

Shimano nexus 8 is over drive from gear 4 afaicr and a sa 8 is overdrive from gear 2.

If you want higher gears the larger front chain ring option is not an option on a drailler mezzo.
Dual drive gives a decent 36 overdrive and underdrive which is about perfect with a 54 feont chainring

Are there any Mezzo / Ori owners in the US, &\or Northern Califorinia? How available\easy are parts maintenance? What exactly is proprietary?

Am I really looking at $300-$700 to upgrade to nexus/alfine 8 or 11, when/if? Is the $300 too low, since I require parts and labor?
Is an I-4 really any smaller or lighter than Dahon Speed 7? I've seen conflicting information for i-4, 25.5 lbs vs 27 lbs for i-4, which is it (with fender rack)?
I-4's W13"xH25.2"xL29.53" W33cm H64cm L75cm doesn't seem smaller than 11.8" × 30.3" × 25.2" Dahon . I gues .8" can "make the difference" on occasion, baggage that will fit it? I'm clear Bromptons 9.8" x 21" x 22" in spite of more weight, wins this race. But I'm really not comfortable riding brompton or BF tikit (even when/if i could afford it) around my 'hoods thugs.
Is $500 "new", collecting dust at LBS, a good deal on I-4 (not sure what year)?

I'm kind of clear, if it was an option, I'd want Mezzo D9, Ori M9/M10, even a C8, before I'd want an I-4, but those aren't going to be available and I don't want to dismiss it out of hand.
I noticed some people who are taller prefer Mezzo - is 5'3" too short?

If it makes any difference, I'm 5'3", heavy, multimodal commuting, there are hills/grades in SF/Oak/Bay area (though I don't think the grades are major where I have to go, as opposed to where I might want to go). Does my area, or even just wanting to "get to work faster", mean I am likely to regret the I-4, pre -upgrade, sooner, than later over comparable more speed or greater gear range bikes? Or am I fairly safe, since at the moment, I won't really have experience of "better", so I don't know any better? Been a while since I rode a bike and I never really rode my mountain bike fast, unless I was coasting down a major grade.
I'm sure "test ride" is recommended, but that has its own challenges at the moment.

Mezzo riders seem to like the way a Mezzo rides/folds compared to other 16" wheel folders.. 16"wheel folders will be more compact in general than 20".. The Shimano 4 speed IGH is a nice quiet hub (although discontinued) that works well for small wheel bikes as gear 1 is 1:1 and the other 3 gears are overdrive .. overall range is only 184%, so just over what a 3 speed hub would be, but obviously closer ratios between gears.. the shifter is proprietary and hard to come by.. good news is a Shimano 7 or 8 speed shifter will work in 1 through 4 .. I'd ride the Mezzo at the LBS to see if you liked it, then put in a low offer.. if it's been sitting forever there might be some incentive to clear stock.. my thinking is that a NOS I4 would be in the $300/350 range.. I had the 4 speed Shimano in a 20" folder and liked it a lot.