Is the design of the current swift riser essentially the same as the airnimal J-stem riser? That is, bottom internal diameter 1-1/8" w/ pinch clamp and top external diameter 1-1/8"?

IIRC there was a change in the design of this part at some point.


https://www.xootr.com/swift-riser.html

https://calhouncycle.com/productcart/...&idproduct=978

https://cgi.ebay.com/Sports-Bike-Bicy...item2a0a22cd1a

this is a bottle carrier currenlty on ebay that mounts on the handlebar, which might be a solution for some of you--reading all the older posts, water bottle cages seem to be an issue with this bike...
train safe-

just randomly inserting my latest version of wishlist:

-even faster tires, kojaks next
-swap out longer klickfix mount for klickfix caddy
-try a bunch of fits for saddle angle, fore/aft and for handlebar height, handlebar style (moustache, some other versions of upright)
-swap out for titanium seat post
-swap alfine 8 for a 3 speed hub (probably 40", ~53", ~71"). probably sram i-motion 3 speed. i'll miss my higher gears, but i'll be fine without them. - my only hesitation here is that if a 3 speed hub is having issues with 1 gear, it makes the bike unusable.
-find mount locations and mounts for tail lights
-some way to mount front bag against frame/headtube
-some simple mechanism where the folded pedal could connect with the handlebar, to keep them locked together when folded
-a very lightweight 2 foot kickstand, for holding by steady when attaching panniers/bags
-wheels locked together quickly when folded, so front wheel didn't sway (i use velcro strap now)
-belt drive
-coaster brakes in rear
-a permanently attached fender that didn't get worked loose by seatpost
-igh with the easiest detachment mechanism for fast flat tire changes (i believe i-motions)
-18 inch wheels, save a little more space..

18" wheels... not such a great idea, the pedals will be too close to the ground, unless you go to very short cranks.

a nice black swift currently on ebay:
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...E:B:SS:AT:1123
(I'm not advertising. Not related to the auction at all)

Sorry for repeating myself, but I'm confused:

Does the Swift riser clamp on a 1" or 1-1/8" OD steerer?

The riser ID is 1", OD is 1-1/8".

thanks jur! will keep taht in mind.

Then how does it clamp to the 1-1/8" fork steerer?

despite owning an in-theory-perfect-for-winter commuter with IGH, drum brakes, and a belt drive, I decided to make my folder my everyday commuter (26 miles round trip in Boston). Two main reasons: if the weather really sucks I can take it on the train home, and it's much more fun to ride than the bulky bike. Here's the setup:

full profile. note the AirZound canister attached to the front of the riser (don't need to grab it ever) and water bottle on rear side of riser. crossrack and bag, with pump attached to seat post (also a handy reminder of how far to insert seat post)



Marathon Winters (200 studs, I think), front inflated to 55 and rear to max of 70 (i'm heavy). motion-activated value-cover lights, neon reflector, u-lock mounted to fork


"campus" pedals, flat on one side with SPD clips on the other. great for a quick start at an intersection, or just for riding w/o clips through traffic


kickstand, MagicShine battery resting above rear brake, motion-activated valve cover lights, and MagicShine taillight


(L to R) bar ends, bell, Magicshine headlight, GPS, slightly-hidden AirZound, water bottle


PlanetBike blinky and MagicShine taillight (mouted on rear fender - not my favorite spot, but it works and there's nowhere else to attach it easily...thinking of just getting a SuperFlash instead)


reflective goo on the Marathon Winters and the Xootr bag


Boston Cyclists Union sticker


fits nicely once you get to the office, no dripping on the carpet

The actual threaded steerer that sticks up above the headset is 1" OD, matching the 1" ID of the riser. Remember it's a threaded setup.

(I am doing this all from memory; I replaced the stock stainless riser with a piece of aluminium tubing on which I clamp the stem. So because the stem is a direct clamp, the riser must be 1-1/8 OD. Therefore the ID must be 1" or a smidgen larger. I know the threaded headset is the larger variety, which comes in 1" and 7/8" sizes.)

Does the fork steerer taper or step from 1-1/8" at the crown to 1" above the headset?

That's what I'm understanding...but you confused me when you said "I know the threaded headset is the larger variety, which comes in 1" and 7/8" sizes" because I thought the headset was clearly 1-1/8 and that some people are even using forks with normal 1-1/8" untapered steerers.

I better check properly tonight when I get home... with the 2 sizes of 7/8 and 1" I meant the quill size, so I am indeed thoroughly confusing not only you but myself also.

The riser with its 1-1/8" diameter sits on top of the threaded nut. So the steerer bit that sticks up is 1" in diameter. I can't say right now if it steps or not, I thought not, but I will check for you.

Was driving by the Sunnyvale Caltrain station yesterday when I noticed out of the corner of my eye a white Swift chained to a signpost across the street. I think it had black bullborn bars, but I couldn't go back for a closer inspection. One of ours?

It has to because it's the only possible way for a 1" ID riser to fit a 1-1/8" fork/headset. The Xootr website also lists the following spec "CroMoly straight taper fork".

I guess that explains why everyone who has done a fork swap is using a Airnimal Joey riser or similar because the Xootr riser won't fit on an untapered 1-1/8" fork.

@mtalinm and off thread topic : what is that rear pannier holder setup you got? Looks interesting.

Jimbeans, that is the xootr cross rack designed by Karl Ulrich. It is $43.99 on their website. There is a bag that goes with it, but you can hang any pannier on it as well.

Btw has anyone mounted a cross rack on their front riser? Brian from xootr tells me it can be done, and I'm so heavy that i think it might be a good idea...

Doable as the seatpost diameter is greater than the stem riser diameter. However, you steering will be affected by the extra weight on the front of the bike.

My new silver Swift arrived from Germany last week neatly packaged, although box was a bit battered but luckily no damage to the bike.

Assembly involved me swapping around the left/right brake cables on the brake levers to set them up for the 'correct' left-back/right-front configuration, rather than the contintental setup. Also, swapped the stock saddle for a Ti narrow one, fitted Ergon GC2 grips, and fitted SPD pedals.

Then took it for the first ride at the weekend around one of my regular 26mile loops around the local local Essex lanes. First impression is that it really does ride well, similar to my 700c bikes. The riding position is a bit cramped, even for me at 5'6" I still found the position a bit too sit-up-and-beg for me. I think I need to fit a longer stem, perhaps 100mm rather than the stock 60mm fitted one.

There was one very annoying 'feature' of the bike, and that was a constant rattle of cables vibrating against the hollow alu frame. I like my bikes to be completely silent. Any ideas how I can cure this rattle?

I'm also a bit confused about the sizing for a new stem. Previous posts refer to 1" and 1-1/8" riser sizing - and tapering. Which size stem will I need to get?

1-1/8

"There was one very annoying 'feature' of the bike, and that was a constant rattle of cables vibrating against the hollow alu frame. I like my bikes to be completely silent. Any ideas how I can cure this rattle?"


Tape.

2020: Sorry for all the short one line answers.

Welcome to the exclusive club of the UK Swift owners association!

Don't let it confuse you. The purpose of all this tapering riser business is so at the end of the day you can use a normal 1-1/8" stem.

Quick one line answers were all I needed. Thanks for your help.

Hi, all!