Bike Forums - Swift folders

Hostel Shoppe sells recumbents and they also sell special chainrings--65t and 73t. There is a website, <http://www.ihpva.org/Builder>, which has plans you can download for a 72t, 82t, 92t chainring.

idc	01-04-12 07:48 AM

Anyone know how you can get disc brakes on a Swift? This bike shop seems to carry them ($140 more than their starting price), for steel framed Swifts (so not the Xootr branded ones).

http://hpm.catoregon.org/?page_id=214

bendembroski

01-04-12 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by idc (Post 13674504)

That's seems to be the easiest way (having HPM do up a frame / fork with the disc fittings attached).

The Xootr frame is aluminium, so getting mounts attached to the rear is going to be tricky. The Xootr fork is steel, so anyone handy with a torch should be able to help you out there.

Just curious, why discs?

idc	01-04-12 08:24 AM

I'm considering a Swift but I would really want drop bars (and probably a FD) so I'm guessing the stock v-brakes would have to go. That led me to think well, why not replace them with discs, and I saw a pic on xootr's site of a Swift with disc brakes.
( http://www.xootr.com/gallery_swift-f...0disc%20brakes )

Actually I have never put a drop bar on a bike or done any work with brifters etc so I don't really know how it would work... most of my bikes have been flat bars but I've been addicted to my road bike since I bought it 6 months ago. The only problem is that it's not very portable, hence the Swift idea.

bendembroski

01-04-12 08:54 AM

Bar end shifters & v-brake levers will work with no problems. It's what I did when I used bullhorns on my Swift. Waaaay simpler than disc conversion.

mtalinm

01-04-12 09:38 AM

I'd be happy with a disc brake in front. Is there more to it than a new fork and a new front wheel? I hardly use the back brake anyway

idc	01-04-12 01:33 PM

I think the cabling from a v-brake is the same as a mech disc brake so a new fork and wheel should do it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bendembroski (Post 13674723)

Bar end shifters & v-brake levers will work with no problems. It's what I did when I used bullhorns on my Swift. Waaaay simpler than disc conversion.

I don't want bar end shifters though. I was thinking something like Tiagra or 105.

bendembroski

01-04-12 01:43 PM

Most disc brakes use the same cable pull as v-brakes. Avid BB7's come in a road version that pull the same amount as road callipers.

Have you looked at travel-agents?

mtalinm

01-04-12 08:29 PM

yeah this is a bummer in general. if you want drop bars and 406 wheels then you have to do either
1) travel agents + regular v-brakes
2) "mini" v-brakes
3) cantilever brakes

I've tried #2 and #3 and been very unhappy with the results. #2 isn't so bad in back, but in the front the wheel drags on the bottom part of the brake. I've tried filing it down but it still drags.

the other possibility is to use sidepull brakes with 451 rims, or maybe extra-extra-long calipers on 406 rims.

Quote:

Originally Posted by idc (Post 13676050)

I think the cabling from a v-brake is the same as a mech disc brake so a new fork and wheel should do it.

I don't want bar end shifters though. I was thinking something like Tiagra or 105.

GlowBoy

01-04-12 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bendembroski (Post 13674723)

Bar end shifters & v-brake levers will work with no problems. It's what I did when I used bullhorns on my Swift. Waaaay simpler than disc conversion.

That's what I'm doing on my Swift: bar-end shifters and V-brake oriented road levers on drop bars. Works great. For levers I'm using the Dia-Compe 287-V; Cane Creek and Tektro also make V-specific (long-pull) road levers.

I wouldn't mind going disc, but it isn't a simple conversion. Too bad, since Avid road discs work fantastically well with conventional (short-pull) road levers.

Fortunately I'm not finding a disc brake necessary so far, even for wet Oregon commuting. This especially surprises me because the dry braking, while adequate, is not awesome. But at least for the riding I've done so far, the performance hasn't seemed to degrade very much in the wet, unlike on my past 700c bikes. So it's been still adequate even in steady rain. That's with the stock front cable and crummy Promax brake, which upgrading would improve it a lot. The rear brake was NOT adequate in stock form (even when dry), and I have upgraded it with an Avid Single Digit 7 brake and Jagwire Racer cables, very carefully prepped. Though still just adequate, that's a big upgrade from inadequate.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtalinm (Post 13674885)

I'd be happy with a disc brake in front. Is there more to it than a new fork and a new front wheel? I hardly use the back brake anyway

Assuming the cable pull of your levers is matched to your brake (long-pull V-brake lever with most disc calipers, short-pull road or canti levers with Avid Road Discs), then ... well, it should be as simple as that, but ...

The problem is that getting a disc fork for a Swift is not simple. It's an unusual fork with a steerer that starts at 1 1/8" and then tapers to 1" above the top of the headset so that the 1" ID Swift riser can clamp onto it. Your fork options, near as I can tell, are:

Have HPM/CAT in Eugene build you one (See link above - they are NOT merely a "bike shop" but an outlet for the Swift's co-designer). Price unknown, theoretically available but I haven't heard of anyone ordering one. This is probably the only option that wouldn't require you to also buy a new headset.
Get a disc fork with a 1" steerer and use a reduction headset. IIRC Hostelshoppe sells one but the rake may throw the handling off a bit.
Get a disc fork with a 1 1/8" steerer and buy a new 1 1/8" ID stem riser. I've searched and haven't found a 1 1/8" disc fork with the proper rake and A-C length. Most of the ones I did find were mod trials forks that were way too long.
Have someone weld disc tabs onto a Swift fork. This has been animatedly discussed previously in this thread. There are varying opinions, but mine is that I wouldn't risk my dental work (or worse) to a fork modded in this way. A fork failure is one of the most dangerous mechanical problems you can have on a bike.
Have a custom fork made. I've considered having WaltWorks make me one. Expensive (currently $275, or $325 for non-black) but Walt should be able to build you anything. I'd probably just have me build one with a 1 1/8" steerer and buy a matching riser.

bendembroski

01-05-12 04:38 AM

I'll just toss one more option out there:

A drum brake. I don't know what the weight penalty would be compared to a disc conversion, but they pull the same amount of cable as road levers. They stop well, and a new wheel much simpler solution than trying to get a disc fitted.

I used drums on my Swift and was extremely happy with them. They stopped fine (on par with a good set of v-brakes IMHO), weren't affected by weather, needed no maintenance, and I didn't have to worry about the rotor getting bashed while the bike was folded and in transit.

It doesn't really jive with the 'high prefomance' feel you are looking for, but that's probably a matter of aesthetics more than function..

law4jba

01-06-12 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bendembroski (Post 13678714)

How did you mount the front drum to the swift fork? I've been debating putting a SA dynamo/drum hub on the front of my swift but have been unable to figure out the reaction arm mount.

bendembroski

01-06-12 01:41 PM

Jubilee clip. No problems.

khuong

01-06-12 02:12 PM

I bought a Swift on ebay hoping to enjoy it when I came back from a November vacation. Unfortunately it came in two packages, the second package never came with the front wheel :(

Does anyone have any recommendations on front wheels? The standard front wheel on the Xootr site is temporarily out of stock. I know most people have their own wheels built for weight + performance reasons, but I am just looking for a quick fix.

Thanks!

badmother

01-06-12 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by law4jba (Post 13685160)

How did you mount the front drum to the swift fork? I've been debating putting a SA dynamo/drum hub on the front of my swift but have been unable to figure out the reaction arm mount.

Depending on what drumbrake and what size tube in the fork you should be looking for something like this:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sturmey-a...702-prod19292/

Some more to choose from but there could be more out there: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sturmey-a...r_pg1/#page=10

badmother

01-07-12 05:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by khuong (Post 13685379)

If you want answers from us who are not Swift owners you must tell us the spacing of the hub, is it a wide or narrow folder hub?

Maybe you could get a Dahon wheel from Thor since you are in the US?

http://www.thorusa.com/accessories/wheels.htm

Edit: Also look around. If it is for just a few weeks maybe there is a 20" childs bike (that is not being used by a child of course) you could get hold of and use the front wheel?

I had problems with my 20" folder on a biketour this summer, started popping spokes. I found a 20" childs bike by the dumpster at the camping site and managed to use that wheel approx one week until I got home and could fix it permanentely. This really was an eye opener on the fact tat standard wheels (spoke lenght, spoke count and so on) and standard gear solutions (shifter) can be really important.

If you need to buy something at full price to solve your problem maybe buy a wheel with a dynohub? Not the cheapest but you get something that many would find wery useful. Can be used for lights and for charging a cellphone.

sqynt

01-09-12 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtalinm (Post 13660739)

I put an avid shorty ultimate on front and it just wouldn't grab enough for my liking.

Haven't posted in a while.... I run Tektro Oryx front and back with Sora brifters, and I find the stopping power to be just fine. It may be a tuning issue, but those canti's work better than the 720s on my cross bike.

Funny thing with all this talk about drop conversions is that I'm planning on reverting my conversion. The Swift is a brilliant bike, but I simply don't ride it enough. To sum it up, I'm just afraid to lock it up anywhere. Every time I do, I think someone would have quick released the entire cockpit and walked off with half the bike. I find my anxiety level to be much lower if I just lock up one of my lower profile, "normal" bikes.

I hate to part with it, so I'm converting it back to flat bars (well sort of, I'll be using Euro touring bars). This will at least allow me to justify having it in the garage as a very adjustable guest bike.

GlowBoy

01-09-12 02:58 PM

Good point on the drum brakes, which are designed to work with short-pull road/canti levers. I may consider a rear drum if I ever get tired of bar-end shifters and decide I want to go back to STI. Fortunately Sturmey-Archer now makes a cassette hub with a rear drum brake.

dyamamoto

01-12-12 10:49 PM

Go to page 78 and look for my post from a few years ago. We had a quite extensive discussion on disc brakes and disc brake forks for the Swift.

NamSF

01-16-12 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by red5un (Post 13557271)

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=229233 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=229231 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=229232
been lurking on this thread for months now and finally built up my own custom swift. after riding a birdy for the past 9 years i wanted something simpler with 406 wheels. kinda went crazy making a super light (super as in not bank breaking ultra) single speed swift. still considering making it into a fixie, but frankly, i love coasting.

so i picked up the frame personally from peter in Brooklyn on a business trip. that man is a saint. aluminum frame custom painted white with suguino cranks and single speed conversion kit. the fork is the Trigon carbon fork that kaito used on his swift. got it from performer.com.tw and they powder coated it white for free. the first one actually got crushed in the mail and cracked. george and nellie from performer sent me a new one right away, again a pair of saints. picked up the pair of kinetix wheels and white kojaks from dahon spares. they are incredibly light. the 74mm to 100mm axle nuts are from speedmatrix depot. the stem, guidonnet lever and cabling is from velo orange. nitto rb-21's, white brooks-esque saddle, titanium QR skewers, crazy light kcnc seatpost and white tektro 556's are all trawled from the ebay. funny thing about the front brake, it was about 2mm too short on one side and i thought i could get away with it. well, i didn't and popped the front tube and tore out the side wall of the front tire. the guys at my local (urbane cyclist in Toronto) fixed me up with a little hand milled front brake extender that dropped it down by a cm. they also dug up an orange stelvio tire that looks pretty damn sharp. finally the pedals are from fyxation and a set of straps are on the way.

as a final touch peter told me that tradition is you can only put on the swift folder label after your first ride. decided instead of just putting on the decal horizontally i'd wrap it around the top tube on an angle. has a nice swiss design touch to it.

now the only problem i have is that there isn't much more i can mess with the bike. had a really good time building this one up, guess i'll just have to ride it.

or get another.

oh forgot to mention, it weighs just under 17lbs.

To red5un and Kaito

I was planning on using the same Trigon fork that you guys have on your Swift. If you could help, please tell me how you both got it to work.

-Did you guys have a long spacer made to go over the steerer tube?
-How did you pre-load the headset?
-Did you use a 1-1/8 standard threadless headset or was it integrated (I can't tell by the pics)?

Thanks a bunch!

NamSF

01-17-12 02:05 PM

Nevermind, I figured it out via Sheldon Brown's seat collar technique.

I just picked up a Xootr on Craigslist for a really good deal and can't wait to get this project rolling.
Anyway, Anyone have luck on finding a lighter replacement for the Xootr seatpost (34 mm IIRC?) Thanks

NamSF

01-17-12 02:07 PM

BruceMetras

01-17-12 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NamSF (Post 13732210)

You can run the Kore 34mm post from Dahon.. those are pretty light in comparison to the stock post.. I ran a carbon Dahon XX post on my Xootr, but really wouldn't recommend a carbon post as the integrity of the Xootr frame relies so heavily on the seatpost and its two seatpost clamps.

jur	01-17-12 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BruceMetras (Post 13732587)

I also use a carbon post but have to agree with your recommendation not to use it. I have been using mine for years now; I have to use Ritchey friction grease to prevent slippage and not to over-tighten the seatpost clamps.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t..._bullhorns.jpg

NamSF

01-17-12 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BruceMetras (Post 13732587)

Thanks Bruce for the reply!

I've owned 700c wheeled bikes in the past, and this will be my first 20"er. I was thinking about building a light fixed gear commuter. Sorry for all the questions, but has anyone on the board built rear wheels with skipped spokes, i.e. 36h w/ 18 spokes?

like this one...http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2004/walter.htm
(was thinking of a similar setup, 36h surly x aeroheat)

I was worried about spoke breakage and truing, although I'm 150lbs wet. I wouldn't normally build something with such little spokes, but 406 wheels tend to be stronger than 700c wheels right? Also, best lacing for this set up? Thanks!

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